The unofficial pp users guide...

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I'm guessing using a ProPride with an Arvika frame mounted bike rack won't work as the Arvika mounts on the A frame behind the propane tanks.

Kelvin

I am not sure why not. I use an Arvika with HAHA, and I don't think PP takes any more real estate on the a frame than HAHA.




PS: I did, however have to trim up the rear of the jack mount flanges. No resultant change in performance nor functionality.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

That might explain something that I was curious about. After 5 years of mostly interstate freeway towing, the right flap is starting to deteriorate and tear way from the support on the outer edge. That is the one behind my diesel exhaust. The factory says five years is about life expectancy. The replacement flaps cost less than $100, so I guess less than $20 per year is good insurance for the front of the trailer. The ones in the picture are the old ones so you can see they are still useful. I have the new ones, but waited to get the stand to make the flap replacement a little easier.

Ken

I modded mine and installed an aluminum shield on the back of the flaps. No more scorching with gas or diesel (with particulate filter burn off as well)

[lsbrodsky]

After our first full year of Airstreaming, with our PP, I have a piece of advice learned the hard way. First, Sean's instructions are clear and concise, but experience is always a better teacher. I found that I was cranking the wd jacks down too far when unhitching. Sometimes I would bump, sometimes I would pull the trailer. I starting measuring the hitch height before pulling out but the real aha moment was when I started lowering the jacks until they were just loose, not near the bottom. Never a problem since. Apparently when all the way down, the hitch head is cocked a bit applying too much friction for a clean withdrawal.
Larry

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

After our first full year of Airstreaming, with our PP, I have a piece of advice learned the hard way. First, Sean's instructions are clear and concise, but experience is always a better teacher. I found that I was cranking the wd jacks down too far when unhitching. Sometimes I would bump, sometimes I would pull the trailer. I starting measuring the hitch height before pulling out but the real aha moment was when I started lowering the jacks until they were just loose, not near the bottom. Never a problem since. Apparently when all the way down, the hitch head is cocked a bit applying too much friction for a clean withdrawal.
Larry

The logic and physics of that makes sense. I have never had a problem I think is due to cranking fully down. However I will experiment with your method to see if it works better.

Kern

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

After our first full year of Airstreaming, with our PP, I have a piece of advice learned the hard way. First, Sean's instructions are clear and concise, but experience is always a better teacher. I found that I was cranking the wd jacks down too far when unhitching. Sometimes I would bump, sometimes I would pull the trailer. I starting measuring the hitch height before pulling out but the real aha moment was when I started lowering the jacks until they were just loose, not near the bottom. Never a problem since. Apparently when all the way down, the hitch head is cocked a bit applying too much friction for a clean withdrawal.
Larry

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

The logic and physics of that makes sense. I have never had a problem I think is due to cranking fully down. However I will experiment with your method to see if it works better.

Ken

OK I believe I misunderstood the original statement and did not think about it long enough. I am still not sure I understand if you are doing something different

This is how I unhook.

Place the jack stand underneath the tongue jack,

Lower the tongue jack onto the stand.

Fully lower the WD jacks.

Lower the tongue jack (raise the tongue) while wiggling the Rock tamer bars.

When the rock tamer bars and hitch wiggle freely. (they always do at a point), I pull the truck forward out of the hitch. I've never had a problem doing this.

Do you ever crank the WD jacks all the way down at any point in unhitching?

If not:

My contention is that the WD jacks partially up prepositions (limits) the hitch at a certain downward angle. That means that when unhooking or hooking up, the front of the box can only move in an downward angle, not upward.

If so:

I do not understand the advantage of your method over mine.

Feel free to try to explain. If there is one perhaps I will get it.

Ken

[PharmGeek]

I do not have rock tamers yet...I just watch the tongue of the trailer..and as soon as it moves independent of the 3P hitch..I figure its loose...and good to go...

If on a bit uneven surface, I have found this method a bit more tricky....perhaps I need to try some version of this wiggle process as better as once I did have an issue unhooking...

PS - hitching up at night when you and your wife are tired is not a great idea as frustration levels appear to be higher...ask me how I know this.

[lsbrodsky]

No, the wd jacks are never all the way down and the box looks exactly level. I believe that the wd jacks all the way down cocks the box off level. Strangely when I used to crank them all the way down, hooking up was never a problem, but there were times that unhooking resulted in a bump or dragging the trailer...not every time though. This was even though I was at the point where the trailer moved free of the ball or when the measured height of the hitch assured the stinger was under no lift or depression.
Larry

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

I do not have rock tamers yet...I just watch the tongue of the trailer..and as soon as it moves independent of the 3P hitch..I figure its loose...and good to go...

If on a bit uneven surface, I have found this method a bit more tricky....perhaps I need to try some version of this wiggle process as better as once I did have an issue unhooking...

PS - hitching up at night when you and your wife are tired is not a great idea as frustration levels appear to be higher...ask me how I know this.

If on uneven ground, fore and aft, use both jacks equally to match vehicle angle. If uneven side to side, use one or the other jack only to match tilt angle between head and vehicle/stinger. Works every time.....for hitching as well as unhitching.

[dkottum]

Our method to separate stinger,

When backing into a site, be sure there is no sideways tension on the hitch when stopped, pull ahead a little if you came in at a sharp angle, place chocks.

Lower tongue jack and lower screw jacks until w.d. bars are completely loose. Undo o.c. latches and all connections.

Know the height of your truck's front wheel well opening when unhitched (36" on ours), then adjust the tongue jack to that height (36") at that wheel well. Stinger should be free.

Drive ahead about a foot, pull stinger out of truck receiver and slide it back into the head for temporary storage while camping.

When hooking back up don't even attempt an angle of stinger to hitch head, line them up straight, back to within a couple inches and set hitch head height just a wee bit lower than the stinger so it appears to raise head a tiny bit coming in. Back in and reconnect, raise tongue with tongue jack so adjusting w.d. jacks to set, and then retract tongue jack at least enough to clear the weight distribution bars in turns.

[lsbrodsky]

I now substitute your wheel well measurement with stinger height measurement but everything else is the same.
Larry

[Ag&Au]

Please humor me, because this is probably obvious to most, but perhaps not all.

Situations arise where it is impossible to hitch straight on, and even at times not the same angle as you unhitched. In these cases just remember that, if the TV is backing in from the left, the hitch head must be offset to the right, and visa versa. I first position the truck several (a bunch of) feet ahead of the trailer with the hitch pointed at the box (approximately) I then position the box so the the face of the front of the box is perpendicular to the line between it and the stinger. We usually get it on the first try. If not we go back to square one. We have found that close in corrections seldom work.

We have found these invaluable when hitching. (not as good as a camera, but a heck lot less expensive)

Magnetic Hitchin' Rods - Qworks HR01C - Hitches & Hitch Bars - Camping World

Ken

[PharmGeek]

I plan on getting those rods soon


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[cwf]

Anyone 'cleaning' up their PP's? I have a few spots which seem to be rusting where paint isn't sticking...

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by cwf

Anyone 'cleaning' up their PP's? I have a few spots which seem to be rusting where paint isn't sticking...

I always thoroughly wash and lube mine before each trip, So far I have no chips that I think need touch up, but when I do I will spot retouch with DeRusto or similar Satin black.

Ken

[lsbrodsky]

Mine needs touch up paint frequently
Larry

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

I always thoroughly wash and lube mine before each trip, So far I have no chips that I think need touch up, but when I do I will spot retouch with DeRusto or similar Satin black.

Ken

Are you lubing anything other than the zerks? If so, what's your process?

[SteveSueMac]

A couple of trips ago while backing in to a very tight spot, I was nearly jackknifed and heard a loud bang. I readjusted and looked at the hitch, didn't notice anything until the next trip out which felt unusually porpoisey (if that's a word). I remembered last year when I noticed the yoke was not square on the frame, adjusting that reduced the porpoising dramatically. Sure enough, the yoke was uneven again which I attribute to that sharp angle back in which must have forced the yoke to one side (must have been the bang I heard).

If you have porpoising, I'm recommending checking the alignment of your yoke to the frame. It's a simple adjustment (even I can do it! ). Loosen the u-bolts that hold the yoke to the frame (you don't have to remove them), adjust the yoke - be sure to measure at several points - hand tighten the bolts so you're not affecting the positioning of the yoke, double check your measures then finish tightening with your wrench.

Solved the porpoising problem for me!

[dkottum]

The yoke support bar slipping sideways on its U bolts can act as a protection against damage to the to the stinger or receiver when backing and turning more the angle limit. If you hear it bang or bump, it's probably a good idea to check the yoke alignment. You may have to loosen and move the support bar back to center, a real easy adjustment.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Are you lubing anything other than the zerks? If so, what's your process?

First I wash the trailer including the hitch which I spray prior to washing with SD-20 Then I liberally grease the zerks and thoroughly wipe up the excess uderneath. Finally I spray anything that looks it could move with with Teflon lubricant.

I am guessing the the Rock Tamers are responsible for my small number of chips.

Ken

[Triumphdude]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

A couple of trips ago while backing in to a very tight spot, I was nearly jackknifed and heard a loud bang. I readjusted and looked at the hitch, didn't notice anything until the next trip out which felt unusually porpoisey (if that's a word). I remembered last year when I noticed the yoke was not square on the frame, adjusting that reduced the porpoising dramatically. Sure enough, the yoke was uneven again which I attribute to that sharp angle back in which must have forced the yoke to one side (must have been the bang I heard).

If you have porpoising, I'm recommending checking the alignment of your yoke to the frame. It's a simple adjustment (even I can do it! ). Loosen the u-bolts that hold the yoke to the frame (you don't have to remove them), adjust the yoke - be sure to measure at several points - hand tighten the bolts so you're not affecting the positioning of the yoke, double check your measures then finish tightening with your wrench.

Solved the porpoising problem for me!

Something similar happened to me. I called Sean just to check in with him - he recommended tightening the u-bolt nuts to 50lbs of torque. I thought that was important to know. It isn't fun towing with an un-aligned PP yoke....