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11-01-2009, 09:41 PM
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#81
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Rivet Master 
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Here is the problem with the chains getting longer when you turn part. The instructions say to route the chains under the head and between the WD bars. When I turn to the right the hitch head swings to the left taking the WD bars with it. This forces the chains to the left because the chains are attached so far forward on the A frame that there is only a few inches between the bars where the chains cross them. This is causing the chains to shorten faster than the turn is lengthening them.
When you get a chance could you measure the distance on your trailer from the center of the hitch ball socket to the chain attachment points.
I would appreciate it. In the meantime, I will see what I can do about pictures. The next two days are the boss's days off, so I will be pretty much doing what she tells me. 
If I get down to the trailer tomorrow, I will see if there is a place that I could bungee the chains back further on the A frame.
Do you cross your chains?
Thanks,
Ken
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11-01-2009, 10:26 PM
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#82
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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hi ken
ok, lets do some FORUM tweaks first...
which will make it MUCH EASIER to follow/read/scan these LONG LONG threads...
1. go to the "User CP" (button next to portal in the TOP blue bar) and CLICK.
2. go to the 3rd heading (setting and options) and CLICK on the 4th listing "edit options"...
3. now scroll down to the 3rd window/box call "THREAD DISPLAY OPTIONS"...
4. see the 3rd box "number of post to show per page" and CHANGE it from...
"forum display fault" to>>>>>>>>>>>"display 100 posts per page"
now close USER control panel and come back to this thread.
________________
doing the above will give you 100 posts per page on your browser/display...
takes about 2 second for a LONG 100 with lots of pics to load (broadband)
but you will be able to SCROLL 100 posts now easy, because they are ALL on ONE page...
for example, after doing this the haha thead is only about 8-9 pages long!!!!
this will help you with my next post...
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-01-2009, 10:34 PM
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#83
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Blind squirrel syndrome
Believe it or not I discovered that a month or so ago and have been set at 100 since then. I scanned up the tread and found SteveH's picture. Mine looks pretty much like that. I ran into this nuisance when I lowered the drop down one hole, because the trailer was high in the front.
Ken
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11-01-2009, 10:36 PM
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#84
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts
...When you get a chance could you measure the distance on your trailer from the center of the hitch ball socket to the chain attachment points...
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ok now...
the chains/A frame loops can be seen in posts...
#7...pic 2
#10 pic 4
#12 pic 4 (good view)
#16 pic 3 (good view)
#17 pic 2 (good view)
and
#21 pic 2 & 3 (hooked up and crossed UNDER/between the bars..
also they can be seen in devo's and steveH's pics in posts...
#40,41,44 and #66,67
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u may need to open the pics in a separate window and ZOOOOM.
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on my unit the chain LOOPs appear about 5 inches back from the ball...
about the same for the safaris (steveH/devo') but you've got a classic,
so the loops should be CLOSE to similar to mine ???
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i DROP the CHAINS down INSIDE the YOKE frame and they come OUT right behind the ball/cup...
see the pics in post #16, 17, 21...
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yep i cross em and i've got a RAISED f250 4x4 so the receiver box is 20+ inches...
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do those pics help ya ???
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-01-2009, 11:01 PM
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#85
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Thanks, the pictures in 21 helped. It looks like you have the hitch bar one hole higher than I do.
I was one hole up from bottom before. The trailer was lower in the rear, so I moved it down to the bottom hole. The trailer looks and measures level now, but the bars seem so close to the ground. I think I need to do some more measurements. It is bed time now.
thanks again,
Ken
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11-01-2009, 11:31 PM
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#86
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Rivet Master 
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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One question please!
Hi, I noticed on 2airs PP installation that there are two "U" bolts that go on the "A" frame under the propane tanks. Also that his propane tank mounts are made from rounded flat stock steel. On my Safari, my propane tank mounting bracket is made from stamped steel and lays flat on the frame in the area where these "U" bolts go. How would you mount these "U" bolts with my type of propane tank mounting base?
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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11-02-2009, 12:08 AM
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#87
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
....How would you mount these "U" bolts with my type of propane tank mounting base?
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hi bob
see devoman's safari mount in post #40.
basically a couple of LONGER bolts and nuts as spacers UNDER the lp tank plates...
this gives the tank plates enough LIFT to clear the frame brack U bolts for the pp.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 05:59 AM
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#88
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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About Chains...........
In the picture of my hitch in post #67, the chains are hooked up and are what I thought to be at the appropriate length. However, I was using caribeaner type clips to hook the chains up to the truck, which actually turned out to be a good thing, at least for the test. After my first test-tow down to the parking lot to take the pictures, I found both caribeaners broken, indicating the chains were too short.
By the way and about caribeaners, I learned when I went to buy new ones, they are not rated anywhere near the load needed for use with safety chains on a trailer, so please do not use them. I replaced mine with the links that screw together, and I used much bigger ones which have given me the extra 1/2" or so in length that I needed, because after my trip with the hitch, nothing is bent, broken, or otherwise overstressed.
I guess the moral of my story, or post if you will, is you CAN make the chains too short, and don't use caribeaners on you safety chains. If you are already using them, change them out if you actually want them to funtion properly should the need arise.
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11-02-2009, 08:20 AM
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#89
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quick Links.
Hi Steve,
The screw closed links (quick links) are what I have been using to extend my chains. However, I ordered the chain extension kit from Sean and am now trying to find the right length using the extra chain. My concern with the quick links is their strength. I don't know how much overkill is built into the trailer's original chains, but there was a steel tag attached to mine that says WLL (I assume working load limit) 3900#. I bought the largest links that would work the trailer chains. They had tags that said WLL 1900#. I am sure that is because they are much softer steel. I have no idea what WLL is actually required to be save. That is why I am going with the additional chain.
Regards,
Ken
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11-02-2009, 11:37 AM
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#90
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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LINKS to chain threads...
Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts
... My concern with the quick links is their strength...
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quik connect links can be found upto ~3500 lbs but some of these will NOT fit into the tongue chain links..
the CLEVIS style links now supplied by pp are MUCH better for extension where the ratings MATTER.
these are pictured in post #40 and discussed in #45.
some folks feel LESSER rated is good, but THAT isn't the focus in this thread.
for folks that wanna munch on the issue (chains, WLL, brake/break aways, and so on...)
try ANY of these threads and post your questions into one of these threads where ALL hitch users can offer wisdom.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...nts-41528.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ice-43405.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ain-16122.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ars-36426.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...html#post57362
it is VERY challenging to keep a thread with ONE FOCUS on the the target issue....
that's why the forum provides ample space and PLACES for other topics...
lets try to stick to the pp here.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 02:55 PM
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#91
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
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It is your thread and I will not post again about the chains after this. However I think you are missing the point of what was going on. The posts were about safely lengthening the chains. Why were we lengthening the chains? Because the stock Airsteam chains are not of sufficient length to operate correctly with the increased receiver to trailer hitch ball distance created by the ProPride. It is something most if not all new ProPride owners are going to have to deal with. So it seems the discussion is of value.
Regards,
Ken
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11-02-2009, 03:42 PM
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#92
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts
It is your thread and I will not post again about the chains after this. However I think you are missing the point...
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no it's a community thread, and i've got no more control than ne1 here.
and i frequently DO miss the point...
but THIS edited string was the point of my last note...
Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts
...The screw closed links (quick links) are what I have been using to extend my chains....My concern with the quick links is their strength... I bought the largest links... They had tags that said WLL 1900#...
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so the chain/cable/links in the LINKS (pun intented) in blue above were for use in sorting out this stuff.
i know it's shocking, but not EVERYONE here reads these threads (or ANY that i post into...)
and LOTS more members may be able to see the quik link "strength" issue when posted to a wider audience.
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IF u are using the clevis style or have RESOLVED the WLL issue,
post about dialing in length HERE as much as needed, until it is dialed in.
rumor was that A/S had LENGTHEN the factory chains because SO MANY haha users had issues with short chains...
it appears THAT rumor was unfounded, based on your trailer.
______________
it's all good, but i do hope to avoid 20 pictures of dogs and beer bottles here...
i received PMs on the haha thread that eye fatigue n bleeding kept some folks from FINDING useful stuff there.
ok, stinger pics to follow.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 07:20 PM
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#93
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparisons 1....
it just so happens that there are 3 stingers at hand...
so some comparisons are warranted and might be useful.
i'll take several posts to visually compare the 2 offerings,
then look at similar AND different aspects of each...
then move to the UNIQUE features of the pp stingers,
and HOW TO assemble and adjust the pp stinger.
_________________
here are 2 shots sidebyside...
pp is in the MIDDLE with a 6 inch (front) and 4 inch drop (back) haha on each side...
the pp is set up to ~5 inches drop in these photos...
an attempt was made to ALIGN the 3 at the receiver pin HOLE in each pic,
so that the DIFFERENCES in length and distance to the flared box section can be seen.
the front stinger in the 2nd photo is a 4 inch drop haha with LENGTHENED shaft.
they supplied these for folks adding MUDFLAPS so an extra 2-3 inches is noted between the PIN HOLE and drop...
the company has STOPPED offering this stinger option and will NOT TRADE for these IF a different drop is needed.
otoh the pp stinger in standard offering has enough EXTRA shaft length to mount mudflaps on ALL of their stingers.
i think it's also obvious that the section going INSIDE the haha head is slightly LONGER, compared to the pp design.
cheers
2air'
ALL pix may be ZOOOMED after opening in a new window
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 07:29 PM
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#94
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparison 2...
now looking from the TOP side...
4 inch with LONGER shaft on the left, then the pp,
then on the far RIGHT the 6 inch drop standard shaft (will NOT accept mudflaps with out modification) from hensley.
it might be useful to LOOK at the WINGS (ocl) on each now too...
the pp wings are slightly DIFFERENT in cut/shape/thickness and groove placement...
the SHORTER length of the shaft that GOES IN to the hitch HEAD is apparent on the pp,
as is the SHAPE AND SIZE of the flared section that snuggly fits INTO the pp hitch head...
cheers
2air'
all pix may be zoooomed after opening in another window...
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 07:47 PM
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#95
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparison 3...
looking DOWN now,
some other variations are noted.
the pp (on the left) DROP section is reinforced at the center (thick welded plate/wedge)
while the haha (on the right) has thinner sections of flat iron welded to BOTH outer sides...
the variation in contours of the wings are also obvious.
reversing the view it's apparent the (now on the right) pp stinger is THICKER/wider at the drop zone...
no doubt this is to account for any lateral or rotational forces that may come from the tv OR trailer.
and to reinforce the 'adjustable section' of the stinger.
again the reinforcement for the DROP section is noted on the pp,
as is the SHAPE of the flared insertion area.
cheers
2air'
all pix may be zoooomed after opening in another window...
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 07:57 PM
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#96
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparison 5....
in these next views more variations are noted...
the WINGS are thicker on the pp stinger and the shape different.
the reinforcement of the DROP is also better seen.
imo the WELDS are more refined on the pp stinger,
and the flared insertion section appears much different in shape/squareness and more precisely shaped.
viewed from the other side more of the same...
in particular the FLARED sections should be compared...
( i will post the hitch head BOX shape/design in a later section here)
cheers
2air'
all pix may be zoooomed after opening in another window...
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 08:13 PM
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#97
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparison 6....
now taking a CLOSE UP to inspect the FLARED section in greater detail....
on the haha only the center of each side is a smooth/flat RAMPED surface to MATCH the hitch head receptacle inner section.
the corners are basically just beads of weld and not especially smooth or even WEDGE shaped.
looking close UP at the pp insertion/wedge/RAMPED section it is more sharply shaped with the CORNERS squared-up with solid stock, not welds.
this does PRECISELY match the hitch head opening, and i will show the details of that later in the thread.
next we'll move to a closer look at the WELDS on each stinger to finish up the direct comparison.
the comparison will conclude then,
________________
and will be followed by the PARTS, ASSEMBLY and ADJUSTMENT of the pp stinger.
cheers
2air
all pix may be zoooomed after opening in another window...
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 08:19 PM
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#98
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Did I miss it?
Hi, on the PP stinger there are three bolts holding it together; Is this for height adjustment only or can the angle be changed? And if the angle can be changed, does it have slotted holes or a cam type devise?
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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11-02-2009, 08:32 PM
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#99
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
did i miss it?...
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no bob.
the secrets you seek are just ahead,
in graphic detail and revealing images,
tomorrow perhaps.
cheers
2air'
and there are CLUES to this mystery in the FIRST photo in posts #93 and #94...
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-02-2009, 09:54 PM
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#100
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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stinger comparison 7...
welds.
this may seem mundane or OVERLY intense,
depending on perspective.
but comparing these 2 brands/offerings means looks at FIT/FINISH and crafting...
let the photoz speak for each...
from the WELDING view...
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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