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Old 07-28-2013, 07:35 PM   #659
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Wow!
To be fair, since that picture was taken, the tonneau has been replaced with a Leer canopy. This allows the bikes to travel inside, while the boats are now on top of the canopy. The weight of the boats on the truck roof caused some oil canning on the roof on a rough road. Luckily, when the weight was off all returned to normal contour. However we decided against subjecting the roof to that weight again.

Ken

PS: The truck is a 2003 and the trailer a 2010 31. I do see difference in the window configuration. The hitch is a ProPride.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:44 AM   #660
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Are you all still using the OEM hitch (welded, factory, or dealer, bolt-on)?

I replaced the dealer-installed on mine, found it couldn't do the job (had loosened) and part of my problem in "transferring weight". Check yours. All trailer hitches place a lot of stress on the receiver, our hitch kind maybe more so.

I installed a cheap interim hitch receiver, but recommend the full crossmember replacement DRAW TITE 45299 (if yours is also a 3/4 or 1T truck). Note attachment points, top & sides.

Titan Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class V - 2-1/2" Reese Trailer Hitch 45299
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:18 AM   #661
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I am still using the factory hitch, which I believe is a bit more stout than the dealer-installed one. Thus far, it's done pretty well and I monitor it pretty close for rust and cracks. In fact, I re-paint it once a year or so in order to make small cracks more visible.

Honestly though, I haven't specifically checked for any movement under weight distribution, but I will now. We've got a short jaunt planned for this coming weekend and I'll be sure to check. Thanks for the head's up.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:27 AM   #662
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Slow - using the factory hitch that came with my Duramax.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:35 AM   #663
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As you might recall, my dealer installed my ProPride as I wasn't sure I was mechanically up for the challenge. This week as a fellow camper (Hensley user) was admiring the PP, I noticed something I hadn't before. First pic: head in view of yoke from coupler:


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Might be hard to see in that pic, but the left side of the yoke is much closer to the a-frame than the right side.

Next 2 pics are actual measurements from the same spot on the yoke on each side to the a-frame:

LEFT:

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RIGHT:

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About a 1.25" difference. Sent pics to Sean - he says "Align the frame bracket so that the tail of the yoke is directly behind the tongue jack and running down the centerline of the trailer."

I've looked at that section of the installation manual and (for reasons that explain why I had the dealer do this) can not see what I'm suppose to do to make this happen. Sean assures me those 250 ft lb bolts don't have to be touched to do this. Would any fellow PP owners be able to help with some SIMPLE and SPECIFIC instructions? I'm willing to try but would like to have a bit of a clue before unbolting stuff :-)
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #664
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<clip>...Would any fellow PP owners be able to help with some SIMPLE and SPECIFIC instructions? I'm willing to try but would like to have a bit of a clue before unbolting stuff :-)
Yes, I can help. At one point our trailer was moved a short distance with a tractor and the frame bracket was knocked out of alignment. It created quite a pull to one side when towing and it was a relief to find that the fix was so easy.

See the big U-Bolts on the A-frame that run down through the frame bracket?



Loosen the nuts underneath (2 for each side), realign the bracket so that equal lengths are sticking out each side, and re-tighten the bolts.

If there's anything you don't understand, let us know.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:03 PM   #665
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Two things:
  1. We know what you mean, but please use the correct terminology. The assembly under the rear bumper of your truck is a "receiver", not a hitch. The receiver may have a 2" square opening or 2 1/2" square opening with an adapter down to 2". The "stinger" of the hitch plugs into the receiver.
  2. The tail of the yoke can be centered by loosening the U-bolts that position the channel that goes across the frame in front of the jacks, sliding that channel so that the tail of the yoke is centered, and re-tightening the nuts on the U-bolts. The U-bolts have to be quite tight to prevent slippage when the trailer is backed or turned in a tight radius. If you have the storage box behind the tanks, put a piece of masking tape across the box and use a tape to mark the center of the box. Adjust the channel so that the tail of the yoke points right at the mark. Without a storage box behind the tanks, it is a little harder to determine center. You could place a weighted cardboard box there and use a tape to find and mark a center point on the box.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:21 PM   #666
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Yes, I can help. (Snip)

If there's anything you don't understand, let us know.
Thanks - that's much easier than I imagined. I was looking at the installation instructions and imagining having to do those 3 pages in reverse! This seems easy enough even for me to tackle! :-)

Thanks again!
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #667
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Two things:

(Snip)
First - you're absolutely right and I need to try to be more precise with language.

Second - thanks for your help. I was trying desperately to get a word in edgewise with my excited camping visitor this weekend to tell him about your great rope idea I now use - but he was too excited to interrupt and the moment passed.

While occasionally something gets lost in translation, more often than not, that rope helps me hitch up in 5 minutes on the first try!


Thanks again.
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:29 PM   #668
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Thanks all - that was REALLY easy! I appreciate your help!
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:40 PM   #669
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I have to confess to being intimidated by the weight, complexity, cost and complications to the hitch area of the PP where I have plans for more batteries an possibly a couple of 2k generators.

Probably the largest issue is just the weight. If I add the installed weight of the PP to the tongue it would almost exceed the tongue weight limits on the trailer empty. Just the weight alone would push me close to trailer gross weight when I am loaded and ready to roll.

I know that PP is one of the best, but for my Sport 22 should I find another option?
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:30 PM   #670
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Thanks - that's much easier than I imagined. I was looking at the installation instructions and imagining having to do those 3 pages in reverse! This seems easy enough even for me to tackle! :-)

Thanks again!
My pleasure - here's a look from the bottom:



The nuts and back plate must be loosened but needn't be removed.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:59 PM   #671
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I have to confess to being intimidated by the weight, complexity, cost and complications to the hitch area of the PP where I have plans for more batteries an possibly a couple of 2k generators.

Probably the largest issue is just the weight. If I add the installed weight of the PP to the tongue it would almost exceed the tongue weight limits on the trailer empty. Just the weight alone would push me close to trailer gross weight when I am loaded and ready to roll.

I know that PP is one of the best, but for my Sport 22 should I find another option?
Hi - it's possible your 2 generators and additional batteries will be close to the weight of the PP. And some folks say that smart trailers benefit even more from the ProPride than larger trailers.

It all depends on what your objectives are - every decision has trade offs. If you want to prevent sway from happening it's either the Hensley Arrow (HA), the ProPride (PP) or if your truck isn't too new, the PullRite (that last one could be interesting for you if you're committed to additional batteries and generators on the A-frame). The HA and PP are more expensive and heavier than most. The PP has tons of improvements from the original HA. If your objective is sway PREVENTION, you don't have another choice. Put the gennies in your tow vehicle and add solar.

Other hitches are less expensive and lighter amd have varying degrees of sway control (i.e., REACTION). Tons of choices there and most have their own advantages and disadvantages.

What's your tow vehicle and what are your objectives?
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:17 PM   #672
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The Tow vehicle is a 2013 BMW X5 x35d.

The objective.... is to make sure that as I slalom down mountain roads I am as safe as possible. I don't really feel the need for weight distribution based on current handling, but I would love to eliminate the potential for sway because some day I will hit a bump wrong and I would like to stack the deck in my favor.

The solar install is scheduled, I am choosing the location for batteries now. The generators will only be used rarely for running the AC.


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What's your tow vehicle and what are your objectives?
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