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Old 06-14-2013, 07:47 PM   #603
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Originally Posted by zeppelin View Post
I'm taking delivery of my PP this week. Pretty nervous about whether or not I'll be able to install it myself or not. I'm not a very handy guy. I'll keep you guys posted. Good thread, although, a lot of it is over my head.
It's mainly the tools. And a place to work on it. A helper is always good as sometimes two heads are better than one. Avoid the heat of the day, too.

Lay out the instrucitons, and print off some of the posts in this thread you find useful. Set up a comfortable work area. Take your time, walk around in circles, re-arrange things, etc, untl the discomfort quiets (is what works for me) and you can sit down to it.

Call Sean when you think you have it "roughed in" (fender height measurements before and after on the TV) and snap pics to send him with WDH applied and not applied showing both vehicles and some closer of the hitch itself where the ground is level and perspective is not skewed.

In fact, this is the best place to start: that the area is good for taking these pictures before starting. Move the vehicles around if there is room to do this.

Going to a certified, three-pad weight scale is second. But one could start with weighing the TV with driver alone, full fuel and permanent tools/supplies aboard to get the proper "adjusted empty weight" on any day prior to WDH installation. Knowing how to use a CAT Scale before taking the TT along might be good for confidence. (One pays inside at the "fuel desk" after being on the scale and talking with the weighmaster via intercom).

Good luck. Knowing the ins & outs will make it all worth while.

.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:19 PM   #604
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I had my AS dealer install the PP. I'm NOT mechanically inclined (Sean will confirm that given the barrage of calls/emails/texts/pics I've sent him). But I REALLY wish I had tried to install it myself. If things seem out of whack, I have no idea if that because the dealer missed something or because my brain doesn't get the concept.

For example - the dealer put everything on the trailer side without my TV but with pics and measurements I sent them of my TV based on Sean's suggestions (height of hitch box, etc). When I went to pick it up, they thought I was supposed to back my truck up so the stinger would go in to the truck hitch! They also installed only 2 of the 3 bolts in the bar/stinger and after talking with Sean, I understand why they missed that. It took a whole weekend on the phone with Sean for me to figure it out. So I don't know if I'd have been able to do the whole thing myself, but the more experience I get with all this stuff, I feel like I'm tempted to take the unit off and reinstall it myself.

Then I think - nahhhh :-)

If there's a PP user in the MA/CT area who'd be willing to tag team with me, I might give it a shot. Otherwise, I'll keep towing as is.
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:28 PM   #605
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What a wonderful hitch!

I picked up my 2012 International 25FB yesterday and the dealer I bought if from installed the 3P for me. What a pleasant towing experience, right from the start! I started out at 6" and went to the CAT scales for fine tuning, ending up at 7". Except for lower fuel mileage(better than 12, worse than 14), I could not tell I had a trailer on the back, although that big thing in the rear mirror reminded me.
This is one amazing hitch!

Larry
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:41 AM   #606
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Need help!!!

I recently upgrade my TV to 2013 silverado 2500 duramax crew cab. I currently have propride with 1400lbs bars. My questions are:

1. Should I switch to 1000 lbs bar due to the silverado hd is being too stiff ?

2. For silverado/sierra 2500hd owners. Is th stinger set up as per manual instructed or adjustment is needed?

Thanks


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Old 06-23-2013, 10:54 AM   #607
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Originally Posted by jyang11 View Post
I recently upgrade my TV to 2013 silverado 2500 duramax crew cab. I currently have propride with 1400lbs bars. My questions are:
1. Should I switch to 1000 lbs bar due to the silverado hd is being too stiff ?
2. For silverado/sierra 2500hd owners. Is th stinger set up as per manual instructed or adjustment is needed?
Thanks
Jonanthan
1. 1000# bars do very well on my Classic 28 with my 2005 Silverado 2500HD. Jacks are right at 6" +/- 1;2" for good handling. I'm surprised that you are using 1400# bars with a much lighter trailer.

2. I had to raise my stinger one step from the calculated setting.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:57 PM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
1. 1000# bars do very well on my Classic 28 with my 2005 Silverado 2500HD. Jacks are right at 6" +/- 1;2" for good handling. I'm surprised that you are using 1400# bars with a much lighter trailer.

2. I had to raise my stinger one step from the calculated setting.
Thanks John,

Sean recommended 1400lbs bar for my 2012 tundra crewmax. I would have kept the tundra but I'm maxed out the payload(1295lbs) with just me. I'll email Sean to see what is his recommendation.

Jonathan
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:13 PM   #609
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Sean recommended 1400# bars for our 2012 FC 25' and 2012 Ram 1500 Reg Cab. Easy to distribute weight and rides softly. Our trailer tongue weight is about 1100# with the Propride hitch.

Perhaps there is more softness in a set of 1400# bars at partial load, than a set of 1000# bars at maximum load and no flexibility left.

doug k
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:31 PM   #610
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Jonathan - Sean recommended 1400s for mine (same truck w/27FB flying cloud) - I went with 1000s for fear of destroying my trailer. But you can dial in as little or as much as you need and others who have the 1400# bars aren't reporting shredded trailers. I wish I had the 1400s as I don't think I'm effectively maximizing the weight distribution with my 1000s yet...

Good luck!
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #611
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Here's a question for my fellow PP owners.


In an offline conversation with Sean, we came to the conclusion that washers behind the rivet were not needed for my setup. For those of you who have used 1 or more washers, how is your hitching up experience? I've notice that unless I'm really level as there is no WD applied, it is tricky at best to hitch up as the stinger gets caught in the box at an odd angle ad doesn't want to go in.

If you're using washers to lower the angle and apply more WD, do you make an adjustment to the box trailer side? If not, please describe your hitching experience. Thanks!!
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:38 AM   #612
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I hitch up at an angle (about 4 degrees) and don't have any problem. I just make sure the stinger is the same angle as the hitch box and back right in. I adjust the WD height to the same angle as the stinger and have no problem.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:43 AM   #613
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Steve, I'm not totally sure I am addressing what you ask. I don't have any washers behind the rivet, so this may be no help. When the angle of the P3 box does not match the stinger angle, I adjust the WD jacks to get the angles to match just prior to backing the stinger into the P3 hitch box. I have not had any problems hitching and unhitching. The hitch / unhitch video on Sean's website was a big help for me to understand the process better.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:08 AM   #614
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Here's a good video on hitching the PP.

Pro Pride Hitching Up - YouTube

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Old 06-24-2013, 06:45 PM   #615
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I continue to follow this thread as even with almost 2 years with my PP I continue to learn from everyone else. I've found that trying to have as straight an approach as possible makes the process simpler. If I've got much of an angle to deal with I'll use my "Swift Hitch" camera and receiver. Since I solo, I often wonder if it'd be easier to have another set of eyes back there!
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan guy
I hitch up at an angle (about 4 degrees) and don't have any problem. I just make sure the stinger is the same angle as the hitch box and back right in. I adjust the WD height to the same angle as the stinger and have no problem.
thanks Morgan guy (please tell me you tow with one!!). Is the 4* angle due to a washer? I think you're saying you can also adjust the angle of the box by adjusting the WD jacks to accommodate any angle, yes?
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