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dmand001 · 11-04-2012, 02:10 PM

My driveway is on an incline and in order for me to get in and out I have to drop the WD bars of my standard hitch as it does bottom out. Not much of a problem as these WD bars just pop-in and out easily. But the PP has these U-bolts which poses as a burden in removing and installing everytime that we travel. I am thinking of purchasing the PP but have reservations because of the issues mentioned above. Are my concerns valid or not? Any help or suggestions is welcomed as I do like the PP a lot.

rochar3 · 11-04-2012, 02:26 PM

HELLO
I have had my Pp for several years and am very pleased with it. The bars are not designed to be removed etc the way you need. But, I would give Sean A call. He is very helpful and maybe can suggest a work around. Good luck
Bob

Ag&Au · 11-04-2012, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmand001

My driveway is on an incline and in order for me to get in and out I have to drop the WD bars of my standard hitch as it does bottom out. Not much of a problem as these WD bars just pop-in and out easily. But the PP has these U-bolts which poses as a burden in removing and installing everytime that we travel. I am thinking of purchasing the PP but have reservations because of the issues mentioned above. Are my concerns valid or not? Any help or suggestions is welcomed as I do like the PP a lot.

I think you concerns are valid. I've scraped my bars a few times, but would not want to make a routine of it.

Are you backing up a hill or down a hill?

Maybe someone can weld little wheels on the bottom of the bars.

Depending on how close you are to clearing the ground, you might be able to use the WD jacks to raise the rear of the truck enough to clear. Unless you have 4WD, this might cause a traction problem.

However I wouldn't do either of these without knowing more than I do.

Ken

richinny · 11-04-2012, 03:22 PM

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

Ag&Au · 11-04-2012, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

When I put emoticons in my post, I believe it says somewhere in the forums rules that you must also use emoticons, if you wish to take issue with what I posted.

Ken

I'm pretty sure my statement is not correctly punctuated. Feel free to correct it as long as you use emoticons

Ag&Au · 11-04-2012, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

I feel that is a waste of time, because I will probably scrape them again. That will scrape off whatever rust has formed.

Ken

slowmover · 11-05-2012, 09:39 PM

I've scraped mine a few times and not worried over it. But if it were a feature of parking it at home or storage yard, I think I'd come up with another entry angle or a ramp (sandbags, etc). A few threads around here on problems with street curb angles/heights, with suggestions which may work.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 11-05-2012, 10:39 PM

Hi, I think the third generation of this type hitch should raise the bars, litterally. All of the Ha Ha's and P P's are so close to the ground. I'm sure that if they wanted to, or were willing to, they could re-design their hitch so as to have the spring bars much closer to the bottom of the trailer's frame. Sean?

Sean Woodruff · 11-06-2012, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I think the third generation of this type hitch should raise the bars, litterally. All of the Ha Ha's and P P's are so close to the ground. I'm sure that if they wanted to, or were willing to, they could re-design their hitch so as to have the spring bars much closer to the bottom of the trailer's frame. Sean?

I'm not sure where else they could be attached. They have to lift from UNDER the hitch head and hitch ball.

Maybe we could get Airstream to raise their hitch ball height. It is the lowest in the industry. (I'm kidding of course)

-

dmand001 · 11-07-2012, 06:26 PM

I will try backing up using home made wooden ramps w/ my standard WD bars loosely on and see if that clears it. If it does then the PP is a possibility. What is the measurement from ground level is the lowest point of the PP? I suppose it would be the WD bars as well. Just maybe one PP owner lives close by in the bay area, ca for a test run on my driveway before I buy one, wishful thinking there.
Thx for the responses btw

Ridgerunner3 · 11-11-2012, 06:00 AM

Just finished my first big trip with the Propride hitch. 1200 miles, some interstate, mostly two lane road. Strong gusty side winds on one day of the journey. The hitch performs exactly the way described by Sean and other owners. Extremely stable travel experience. Very pleased with performance. Glad I went with the Propride with the Jim Hensley improvements over the original Hensley design (lower price too).

I viewed the youtube hook-up / un-hook videos on the Propride site before hooking-up the first time. Very easy to hook-up by yourself. Much quicker and cleaner than hooking up my dual cam hitch.

I have not been in any extreme AS/TV angles during hook-up, so I can't speak to that type of situation. From my experience, I would think that the AS/TV angles would be very extreme before there would be any problem with hook-up / un-hook.

Pahaska · 11-12-2012, 11:57 AM

I also just finished my first trip (actually, my first tow) with the ProPride. 200-mile round trip to Kerrville in gusting crosswinds. Not a wiggle from the trailer. I found that the truck steering feels much more lively, more like without the trailer.

Backing into the storage slot was a bit different. When I first put the truck in reverse, there were two loud clunks from the hitch that startled me a bit. Once moving backward, the trailer steered into the space quite nicely. It seems to take a bit more distance to get the trailer start to turn. After that, it turned like any other hitch.

I'm still working on jack tension. I put two short vertical strips of black Velcro on the rear corners of the propane tank cover. I cut two small squares of white Velcro as markers for the bottom of the jack outer tube that I can easily move up and down as needed. I have them at about the 6" position and the rig feels good.

SteveH · 11-12-2012, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pahaska

I
I'm still working on jack tension. I put two short vertical strips of black Velcro on the rear corners of the propane tank cover. I cut two small squares of white Velcro as markers for the bottom of the jack outer tube that I can easily move up and down as needed. I have them at about the 6" position and the rig feels good.

John, In the beginning with my hitch I tried measurements of the jacks, then marks, then measured sticks, but have settled on counting the turns from full down position. And, you will be surprised in the difference one turn makes on each jack.

Ridgerunner3 · 11-12-2012, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

John, In the beginning with my hitch I tried measurements of the jacks, then marks, then measured sticks, but have settled on counting the turns from full down position. And, you will be surprised in the difference one turn makes on each jack.

How many turns are you setting yours at?

I have been measuring jack travel. I have tried 5.5 and 6.0 inches. I don't notice any difference in truck handling with either setting. Both are great.

CAT scale readings have been confusing. I weighed the loaded for camping truck on one CAT scale and then weighed the entire rig on a different CAT scale. Scale weights did not make sense. I need to go back, start all over, and weigh at the same scale during the same trip to the scale.