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Old 08-19-2013, 02:39 PM   #721
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Good thread on the ProPride and a major reason for buying mine as well. Staying on topic is helpful.

doug
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:52 PM   #722
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Good thread on the ProPride and a major reason for buying mine as well. Staying on topic is helpful.

doug
Agree, X3
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:06 PM   #723
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Here's a PP question - I believe that the tilt of the head is set from unhitching when you get the WD bars lose enough to kick (no more, no less). And that should be the angle (tilt) you come in on when you hitch up next time. Why does that angle sometime change between hitching? Good news is the answer is to just adjust the WD jacks and the head sort if slips right on to the stinger. But how does this change after a week of just sitting in storage?
I suspect trailer load/unloading, surface it rests on, someone bumping the trailer tongue jack up or down.. Or the gravitational thingamajalopy...
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:03 PM   #724
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got mine installed..



I ordered my ProPride earlier this summer and it did not get to me in time for my big 5,300 mile trip so it had to wait until I got home to install. It took about 5 weeks to get to me but it was packed real nice, no scratches etc.

I have a 05 Safari 30 towed with a 2500 Suburban now, however i have a GL 350 that I am going to eventually enact for towing duties. I took the opportunity to strip everything down on the tongue and repaint it except i need to get some short set screws or short bolts to put in the two Reese bracket holes.

Install went good, about 2 hrs. I went with the 1400lb bars per Seans suggestion. I went to the scales today and i just guessed at the bar preload at 5" of jack lift. Looks like from the scales i could add some tension. First impressions were sketchy as i did not have enough boost on my brakes and the hitch head did a violent swing to one side on a hard test brake. I bumped up the brake power and went to Boost 2 (Prodigy) and it seems better but i need to really romp on the brakes once and see what it does. I went back through and checked my fasteners after about a 40 mile test run and the crossover bar that keeps the yoke centered on the tongue had slid a bit. I really cranked on it. Highway performance is as advertised, awesome on the lack of sway. Has a different feel in cornering that will take some getting used to.

Picked up some 5/16" high tensile chain to extend the breakaways also as they are just a little tight if i go under the sway bars.

Looking forward to a longer run to test it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:38 PM   #725
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You need enough chain to cross the chains under the hitch. State law.

Also, crossing the chains keeps the outer chain from getting too tight when you turn sharply.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:51 PM   #726
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You need enough chain to cross the chains under the hitch. State law.

Also, crossing the chains keeps the outer chain from getting too tight when you turn sharply.
X2. The chains need to go between the WD bars. Look at the install instructions.

Brakes that are out of adjustment can cause the hitch to "bump". Also I believe I have read that AS disc brakes have a slight delay as compared to magnetic brakes. I think a brake delay could cause the hitch to bump.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:14 PM   #727
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I have disc brakes and have never had a bump when applying brake using a Prodigy.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:36 PM   #728
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I think I got the bump out, heading out for a 3 day run and will put it to the test.

I picked up some nice high tensile chain today and will put it on when I get back. I am not one for state laws anyway. ...those bastards just like harassing decent folks.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:46 PM   #729
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Crossing the chain is more than a state law. It not only keeps the outer chain from getting too tight on turns, it also acts as a basket to keep the trailer tongue from digging in if ever there is a failure in the hitch system. The latter could really uin your day.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:05 PM   #730
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A note on crossing chains.

Our 2012 FC front dinette has only one loop under the A-frame where the chains attach. There is no crossing on some Airstreams because the two chains use the same attachment loop.

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Old 08-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #731
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a note on crossing chains.

Our 2012 fc front dinette has only one loop under the a-frame where the chains attach. There is no crossing on some airstreams because the two chains use the same attachment loop.

Doug
x2...
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:51 PM   #732
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Crossing chains coming from single mount point

Like dkottom's trailer, our 2013 25FB has a single loop in the tongue where both chains attach. But even though they come from the same loop, there is a left and a right chain. We cross them when hooking them to our car. I believe that gives them a little better chance to hold the tongue off the ground.

Our other (non-AS) trailer is the same way.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:57 AM   #733
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I was told the same thing as Doug, by my dealer.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:44 AM   #734
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A note on crossing chains.

Our 2012 FC front dinette has only one loop under the A-frame where the chains attach. There is no crossing on some Airstreams because the two chains use the same attachment loop.

doug

To me, this begs the question:

Why bother to have two chains if they are both attached to the same loop welded onto the A frame? That is putting a lot of faith in those two weld points on that one loop.

It sounds to me like an ill conceived design short cut. If my trailer were rigged like that, I would be researching whether of not it should be changed, both for reliability and to gain the supporting feature and directional stability of the crossed chains.

Ken
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:00 AM   #735
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Chains "should" not only have separate attachment points on the TT, each chain needs the strength to by itself handle the weight of the TT (not something you'll find at HD or Lowes).

Second, the TV attach points are to be separate of the hitch receiver.

All of this, if one is serious in re "safety chains".
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:08 AM   #736
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Chains "should" not only have separate attachment points on the TT, each chain needs the strength to by itself handle the weight of the TT (not something you'll find at HD or Lowes).

Second, the TV attach points are to be separate of the hitch receiver.

All of this, if one is serious in re "safety chains".
Then neither Airstream nor Dodge are serious about safety chains.

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Old 08-23-2013, 10:13 AM   #737
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The Texas Transportation Code simply states:
The rules shall:
(1) require safety chains to be strong enough to maintain the connection between the trailer, semitrailer, house trailer, or drawn motor vehicle and the drawing vehicle


Note that chains is plural. It is not required that a single chain handle the load, though that is certainly not a bad idea.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:34 AM   #738
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That is a minimum. Fine if "minimum" appeals to one. D.O.T. regulations are more stringent. We covered this to some depth in a thread about safety chains vs. cables. Read more there to become satisfied. Ordinary Americans are disposable (road safety; 1,965 dead in Texas alone thus far this year), but freight and liability are another order of value. This is America, after all. The lobbyists can work both sides of "safety" arguments.

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Old 08-28-2013, 08:01 AM   #739
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...First impressions were sketchy as i did not have enough boost on my brakes and the hitch head did a violent swing to one side on a hard test brake.
Same thing - I was told it's called the "Hensley Bump" - more boost on the prodigy took care of us.

Quote:
Has a different feel in cornering that will take some getting used to.
It certainly does - it corners like a fifth wheel thanks to the pivot point projection. We learned quickly to make our turns wider, following the outside of the curve wherever possible.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:18 AM   #740
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Backing radius with the PPP is definitely larger. It also takes more distance to get the turn started.

Backing into my slot at the storage yard has always been tight, even before the PPP because of a building across from the slot. With the PPP, my front bumper almost grazes the building. When I recently replaced my truck, I went with an extended cab instead of a crew cab just to get a bit shorter wheelbase and a bit more clearance between my bumper and the building.
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