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Old 10-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #505
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Okay, good on the offset.

Now, is the tilt adjustment pin with washers inserted.

Also, the pivot bolt should be in the bottom hole above the bolt in the slot. It is in the top hole below the slot bolt in the photos above.

Is the tilt adjustment pin with washers installed? There is a hole between the plates in the end of the bar. That pin should be inserted in that hole with two or three washers under the head of the pin.

In the top photo above it is not in there and the weight distribution is forcing the hitch bar to have an upward slope toward the trailer. The tilt adjustment pin will keep the hitch bar parallel to the ground and give you more weight distribution with per inch of jack travel.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #506
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I see a problem, if not THE problem....you have the center bolt in the wrong hole. It should be in the lower center hole. The way you have the drawbar setup, the upper tilt pin cannot contol the tilt angle on the drawbar.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:24 AM   #507
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The final weights and most reliable are also posted with the CAT scale weights. It is titled Mainline Sorter Hillsborough, Sept. 5, 2012, 20:07:26 (8:07 pm). This is an official scale authorized by the state of NC to determine if a tractor trailer's weight is within lawful limits.
It is on a white piece of paper.

The Max Weight for the RA1, as listed on the door of the Land Cruiser, is 4300 lb

The official scale shows the RA1 weight to be 4320
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:25 AM   #508
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You said 2 holes should be showing at the top
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:29 AM   #509
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I speak Italian and French, but not towing. I don't think I can do this. Tilt bars, pins, whatever. I can understand pictures and 2 holes at top, but that's it.
As I said before, I need one knowledgeable, trustworthy person who can be physically present to help me. Preferably a Scout.LOL
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:30 AM   #510
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I won't haggle about fees
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:33 AM   #511
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Especially now that Apple is up $6.00 since the Live Streaming Presentation began.
I will check back in after the markets close. After hours is 8pm.
I am trading options. Thanks
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:16 PM   #512
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You should be able to take your tow vehicle, adjustable hitch bar, and instruction manual to any mechanically intelligent person and successfully have the adjustable hitch bar setup properly. You do not need a Propride expert to get this hitch bar setup properly. It's a simple process for a person with mechanical skill who can also follow an instruction manual.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:02 AM   #513
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My 3P hitch is due to arrive Friday. This will be a busy weekend! I'll start today preparing by removing the Reese, propane tanks, etc. and touching up the A-frame.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:25 AM   #514
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John,

I offer my assistance if you need it. I'm (relatively) close to you, and have installed three ProPride hitches, so should you need help, just give me a shout.

Regards,
Steve
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:53 AM   #515
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John,

I offer my assistance if you need it. I'm (relatively) close to you, and have installed three ProPride hitches, so should you need help, just give me a shout.

Regards,
Steve
Thanks for the offer. I don't really expect any problems, though. I'm pretty mechanically inclined.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:20 PM   #516
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My hitch just arrived in Mesquite, TX an hour ago and will be brought to Austin tonight to be delivered sometime tomorrow.

Today, I removed the Reese hitch, plugged the holes temporarily with the lag screws, and painted the A-frame with Rustoleum black. There was virtually no rust under the chrome covers, when I popped them off, so I cleaned the area under the covers with steel wool, painted it, and replaced the covers. I have strips of non-slip tape on the top of the chrome covers so I can step up on them to get bugs off the trailer front without fear of slipping. I also loosened the propane lines to clear the frame bracket when I install it tomorrow.

Some folks have had rust under the chrome A-frame covers, but my trailer is under cover when not in use and the area was virtually rust free.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:48 PM   #517
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john, some of those bolts might be in the way. i tried to prep like you did but i found it easier to leave them off until the install was complete.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:09 PM   #518
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john, some of those bolts might be in the way. i tried to prep like you did but i found it easier to leave them off until the install was complete.
I can always easily remove the lag screws, but the only protrusions are the heads of the lag screws that once mounted the front swivel casting for the Reese hitch. The area is safely in front of where the frame bracket U-bolts will mount, and are on a completely bare area of the frame according to 2air's photos. There are no frame holes in the area of the jacks.
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