The unofficial pp users guide...

[kry226]

I am still using the factory hitch, which I believe is a bit more stout than the dealer-installed one. Thus far, it's done pretty well and I monitor it pretty close for rust and cracks. In fact, I re-paint it once a year or so in order to make small cracks more visible.

Honestly though, I haven't specifically checked for any movement under weight distribution, but I will now. We've got a short jaunt planned for this coming weekend and I'll be sure to check. Thanks for the head's up.

[SteveSueMac]

Slow - using the factory hitch that came with my Duramax.

[SteveSueMac]

As you might recall, my dealer installed my ProPride as I wasn't sure I was mechanically up for the challenge. This week as a fellow camper (Hensley user) was admiring the PP, I noticed something I hadn't before. First pic: head in view of yoke from coupler:




Might be hard to see in that pic, but the left side of the yoke is much closer to the a-frame than the right side.

Next 2 pics are actual measurements from the same spot on the yoke on each side to the a-frame:

LEFT:



RIGHT:



About a 1.25" difference. Sent pics to Sean - he says "Align the frame bracket so that the tail of the yoke is directly behind the tongue jack and running down the centerline of the trailer."

I've looked at that section of the installation manual and (for reasons that explain why I had the dealer do this) can not see what I'm suppose to do to make this happen. Sean assures me those 250 ft lb bolts don't have to be touched to do this. Would any fellow PP owners be able to help with some SIMPLE and SPECIFIC instructions? I'm willing to try but would like to have a bit of a clue before unbolting stuff :-)

[JDnBeastlet]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

<clip>...Would any fellow PP owners be able to help with some SIMPLE and SPECIFIC instructions? I'm willing to try but would like to have a bit of a clue before unbolting stuff :-)

Yes, I can help. At one point our trailer was moved a short distance with a tractor and the frame bracket was knocked out of alignment. It created quite a pull to one side when towing and it was a relief to find that the fix was so easy.

See the big U-Bolts on the A-frame that run down through the frame bracket?



Loosen the nuts underneath (2 for each side), realign the bracket so that equal lengths are sticking out each side, and re-tighten the bolts.

If there's anything you don't understand, let us know.

[Pahaska]

Two things:

1. We know what you mean, but please use the correct terminology. The assembly under the rear bumper of your truck is a "receiver", not a hitch. The receiver may have a 2" square opening or 2 1/2" square opening with an adapter down to 2". The "stinger" of the hitch plugs into the receiver.
   
2. The tail of the yoke can be centered by loosening the U-bolts that position the channel that goes across the frame in front of the jacks, sliding that channel so that the tail of the yoke is centered, and re-tightening the nuts on the U-bolts. The U-bolts have to be quite tight to prevent slippage when the trailer is backed or turned in a tight radius. If you have the storage box behind the tanks, put a piece of masking tape across the box and use a tape to mark the center of the box. Adjust the channel so that the tail of the yoke points right at the mark. Without a storage box behind the tanks, it is a little harder to determine center. You could place a weighted cardboard box there and use a tape to find and mark a center point on the box.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by JDnBeastlet

Yes, I can help. (Snip)

If there's anything you don't understand, let us know.

Thanks - that's much easier than I imagined. I was looking at the installation instructions and imagining having to do those 3 pages in reverse! This seems easy enough even for me to tackle! :-)

Thanks again!

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

Two things:

(Snip)

First - you're absolutely right and I need to try to be more precise with language.

Second - thanks for your help. I was trying desperately to get a word in edgewise with my excited camping visitor this weekend to tell him about your great rope idea I now use - but he was too excited to interrupt and the moment passed.

While occasionally something gets lost in translation, more often than not, that rope helps me hitch up in 5 minutes on the first try!


Thanks again.

[SteveSueMac]

Thanks all - that was REALLY easy! I appreciate your help!

[morgandc]

I have to confess to being intimidated by the weight, complexity, cost and complications to the hitch area of the PP where I have plans for more batteries an possibly a couple of 2k generators.

Probably the largest issue is just the weight. If I add the installed weight of the PP to the tongue it would almost exceed the tongue weight limits on the trailer empty. Just the weight alone would push me close to trailer gross weight when I am loaded and ready to roll.

I know that PP is one of the best, but for my Sport 22 should I find another option?

[JDnBeastlet]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Thanks - that's much easier than I imagined. I was looking at the installation instructions and imagining having to do those 3 pages in reverse! This seems easy enough even for me to tackle! :-)

Thanks again!

My pleasure - here's a look from the bottom:



The nuts and back plate must be loosened but needn't be removed.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by morgandc

I have to confess to being intimidated by the weight, complexity, cost and complications to the hitch area of the PP where I have plans for more batteries an possibly a couple of 2k generators.

Probably the largest issue is just the weight. If I add the installed weight of the PP to the tongue it would almost exceed the tongue weight limits on the trailer empty. Just the weight alone would push me close to trailer gross weight when I am loaded and ready to roll.

I know that PP is one of the best, but for my Sport 22 should I find another option?

Hi - it's possible your 2 generators and additional batteries will be close to the weight of the PP. And some folks say that smart trailers benefit even more from the ProPride than larger trailers.

It all depends on what your objectives are - every decision has trade offs. If you want to prevent sway from happening it's either the Hensley Arrow (HA), the ProPride (PP) or if your truck isn't too new, the PullRite (that last one could be interesting for you if you're committed to additional batteries and generators on the A-frame). The HA and PP are more expensive and heavier than most. The PP has tons of improvements from the original HA. If your objective is sway PREVENTION, you don't have another choice. Put the gennies in your tow vehicle and add solar.

Other hitches are less expensive and lighter amd have varying degrees of sway control (i.e., REACTION). Tons of choices there and most have their own advantages and disadvantages.

What's your tow vehicle and what are your objectives?

[morgandc]

The Tow vehicle is a 2013 BMW X5 x35d.

The objective.... is to make sure that as I slalom down mountain roads I am as safe as possible. I don't really feel the need for weight distribution based on current handling, but I would love to eliminate the potential for sway because some day I will hit a bump wrong and I would like to stack the deck in my favor.

The solar install is scheduled, I am choosing the location for batteries now. The generators will only be used rarely for running the AC.

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

What's your tow vehicle and what are your objectives?

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by morgandc

The Tow vehicle is a 2013 BMW X5 x35d.

The objective.... is to make sure that as I slalom down mountain roads I am as safe as possible. I don't really feel the need for weight distribution based on current handling, but I would love to eliminate the potential for sway because some day I will hit a bump wrong and I would like to stack the deck in my favor.

The solar install is scheduled, I am choosing the location for batteries now. The generators will only be used rarely for running the AC.

Some SWAGs here so take with a huge salt lick!

It looks like your FB sport has a published tongue weight of 393. That might shoot upwards of 650 to 700 fully loaded and with the portion of the PP that counts to tongue weight. And I think your GVWR is 4500 so (just guessing) you'd be in that 10-15% range there. Your tow vehicle can handle 6000 lbs but I couldn't find your receiver's capacity. I'm assuming it's 1000 lbs but you would know better than I would. If the guesses are fairly close to being right, the PP would fit your specs and give you slaloming peace of mind. Triple check the numbers though - this is a lot of guessing on my part - and for sure, talk w/Sean Woodruff (PP pres.).

[cwf]

I might be off a bit, ....wouldn't the weight of the PP just be added to the vehicle tongue weight, not the trailer? Tongue weight is a factor of trailer load. So with PP attaching to the receiver, wouldn't the weight be in there, not trailer?

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by morgandc

I have to confess to being intimidated by the weight, complexity, cost and complications to the hitch area of the PP where I have plans for more batteries an possibly a couple of 2k generators.

Probably the largest issue is just the weight. If I add the installed weight of the PP to the tongue it would almost exceed the tongue weight limits on the trailer empty. Just the weight alone would push me close to trailer gross weight when I am loaded and ready to roll.

I know that PP is one of the best, but for my Sport 22 should I find another option?

Tongue weight is perhaps the greatest limiting factor of most truck/trailer combinations; best not to add things like batteries and generators to that area, especially both on a light trailer. When hitched and weight distributed the tongue weight is mostly carried by the tow vehicle, not the trailer axles

A Propride will greatly improve your towing experience and trailer sway cannot happen. Do you really need to carry that much electrical equipment for a small trailer? Seems a bit much.

doug

[morgandc]

The receiver is rated at 6000 / 600. I am running at about 520.
Gross on the trailer is 4500, I am running with an axle weight of 3700 with all tanks full and luggage, so 3700+520 = 4350.

It looks like I am going to move my batteries inside, but only by a few inches at this point so that won't help the tongue weight much.

Do I "Need" that much electrical? If I go to the nearest "city", or river I need AC for the wife and dog. The east side of WA in the summer will easily run over 100 degrees F. When I go on vacations, I normally go to cooler places and/or places with RV parks so it isn't as needed there. It would be much cheaper to just always stay at an RV park. But I just like my electronics....

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Some SWAGs here so take with a huge salt lick!

It looks like your FB sport has a published tongue weight of 393. That might shoot upwards of 650 to 700 fully loaded and with the portion of the PP that counts to tongue weight. And I think your GVWR is 4500 so (just guessing) you'd be in that 10-15% range there. Your tow vehicle can handle 6000 lbs but I couldn't find your receiver's capacity. I'm assuming it's 1000 lbs but you would know better than I would. If the guesses are fairly close to being right, the PP would fit your specs and give you slaloming peace of mind. Triple check the numbers though - this is a lot of guessing on my part - and for sure, talk w/Sean Woodruff (PP pres.).

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by cwf

I might be off a bit, ....wouldn't the weight of the PP just be added to the vehicle tongue weight, not the trailer? Tongue weight is a factor of trailer load. So with PP attaching to the receiver, wouldn't the weight be in there, not trailer?

The ball, the head, and the stinger are not tongue weight, but they are receiver weight, and thus part of rear axle load. The yoke, jacks, brackets, etc are tongue weight. Parts that attach to the head AND the A frame are partially tongue weight and partially receiver weight.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by cwf

I might be off a bit, ....wouldn't the weight of the PP just be added to the vehicle tongue weight, not the trailer? Tongue weight is a factor of trailer load. So with PP attaching to the receiver, wouldn't the weight be in there, not trailer?

Just adding a 200# PP weight to a 800# tongue weight would not result in 1000# resting on the truck receiver. This is because the PP does not rest on the truck receiver at the hitch ball, but about 12 inches farther away from the trailer axle. That changes the math. I have seen reports of 80-100# less than the PP and tongue weight simply added together, depending on the distance of trailer axle to truck receiver when attached.

doug

[cwf]

Wonder what the average order to ship schedule is for 3P?

[cwf]

Originally Posted by cwf

Wonder what the average order to ship schedule is for 3P?

Won't be long!