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Old 04-19-2012, 06:53 PM   #421
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Timberrock - that wasn't us but we apparently just missed you. If your offer stands I'd definitely be interested in seeing the bars installed and the CAT scale visit.

Here's the question: When do you beef up the back end of the TV and when do you get the bigger bars. And what are the tradeoffs?
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:09 PM   #422
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There are two important objectives in using a weight distribution hitch. The first and foremost is to transfer the proper amount of hitch weight from the back of the TV to front. This is done to keep the proper amount of downward force on the front axle to facilitate proper steering control. The second is to level the trailer and tow vehicle.

The interaction of these objectives makes the whole process a lot of educated trial and error. There are also a great number of variables that can change the whole setup.

I have two pieces of advice:

1. For a starting point, use the advice of the hitch designer. In this case that would be Sean.

2. There are many in-depth threads on these forums about proper adjustment of weight distribution hitches. I suggest you use the search functions and read as many as you can.

Keep in mind that you will have to separate the wheat from the chaff.

I would find some of these threads and post links, but I have already adjusted my hitch.

If you don't understand something on one of those threads, don't hesitate to resurrect that thread with a question.

Hope this helps a little,

Ken

P.S. If you get so that you can adjust a new hitch in less than a half dozen tries, I suggest opening a hitch installing business.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:16 AM   #423
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Originally Posted by Timberock View Post
BC Seattle I have a suspicion we meet at Airstreams NW about two weeks ago. I think my wife and I spoke with you as we were installing our ProPride on our F150 and 27' Flying Cloud. If so it sounds like Dan hooked you up on a truck.

One reason Sean may be recommending the heaver bars is based off what we are going through and not wanting to have you experience the same. When we completed our install we had to raise the jacks almost to thier maximum and still were 3/4 of inch high at the front wheels of the truck. Part of this problem was the hitch box height needing to come up and since then we have raised it 2 inches. Additionally Sean recommended we move to 1400 lb. bars so that we would not need nearly the jack height. The new bars are due to arrive on Friday.

Given that the 25' models actually have a higher tongue weight and you are towing with a F150 you are likely to experience the same issues we hit. I am betting that Sean is trying to short circuit the need to swap out the bars.

I plan on installing the new bars this weekend and taking a trip to the CAT scales in North Bend to really dial things in. You are welcome to come over and observe so you have some info going into your install.

On a side note I need to call out the outstanding customer service that Sean at ProPride provides. Not only was he availble for install help on a weekend but Easter weekend at that. No problems at all getting the bars swapped out either. I would pretty much recommend ProPride at this point on customer service alone - it is rare to see that level of commitment from a company these days.


Cue Twilight Zone theme...

I have to say that it is a bit eerie to see my thought process spelled out so clearly - at just about the time we were talking about Timberock's weight distribution, BC_Seattle was purchasing his hitch and I started looking at the specs of each of the models.


Thank you for the customer service mention.


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Old 04-20-2012, 07:45 PM   #424
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So Sean, you think the 1000lbs bars will work with the EB and a 3/4 ton 2012 Suburban?
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #425
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So Sean, you think the 1000lbs bars will work with the EB and a 3/4 ton 2012 Suburban?
Yes, with the 3/4 ton the 1000# bars will be good.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:56 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

Yes, with the 3/4 ton the 1000# bars will be good.
Thanks Sean, awesome service as always!
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:57 PM   #427
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Okay, it all hooked up. I'm getting some odd numbers at the scales though.



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Old 04-29-2012, 07:58 PM   #428
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Oh, and I've already moved the hitch bar up one hole and I think that it'll need a second. The shot of the whole rig is as its currently set up.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:12 PM   #429
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The numbers don't look that far off to me. I think you could use a little more weight distribution. My opinion is that you should try to get the front TV axle at least back to where it was without the trailer.
My first look at the full picture made me think that the TV rear/TT front are about 1-2 inches low. However, it is very hard to tell.

My goal when I hitch up is to have the trailer level, and the front and rear TV fenders to have lowered approximately the same amount.

My profile picture pretty much shows how I like it to look.

However, since then we have replaced the tonneau with a canopy and no longer carry the kayaks on the cab roof. So that required some more adjustment.

It looks like you are on the right track.

Ken
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:36 AM   #430
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The numbers don't look that far off to me. I think you could use a little more weight distribution. My opinion is that you should try to get the front TV axle at least back to where it was without the trailer.
My first look at the full picture made me think that the TV rear/TT front are about 1-2 inches low. However, it is very hard to tell.

My goal when I hitch up is to have the trailer level, and the front and rear TV fenders to have lowered approximately the same amount.

My profile picture pretty much shows how I like it to look.

However, since then we have replaced the tonneau with a canopy and no longer carry the kayaks on the cab roof. So that required some more adjustment.

It looks like you are on the right track.

Ken
Thanks Ken, I'm glad that it's about where it needed to be. It sure drives a lot better than it did with the Equalizer! I'm thinking about moving the hitch bar up one more hole and seeing if that levels things out.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:19 AM   #431
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Thanks Ken, I'm glad that it's about where it needed to be. It sure drives a lot better than it did with the Equalizer! I'm thinking about moving the hitch bar up one more hole and seeing if that levels things out.
The hitch bar will definitely raise the front of the trailer. Have you measured the trailer to see if it is level? I park on level ground and measure the front and rear of the trailer frame. I try to keep those two measurements as close as possible. Since my first measurements, I have discovered that the trim strip on the side of our trailer is level with the frame. That makes quick checks easier. If your hitch bar is like mine, the holes are 1.5 inches apart. That means that the difference between the front and rear of the trailer will change by approximately three inches for every hole on the bar. In my limited experience, that is a lot.

I am a little concerned about the fact that the TV front axle is lighter than it originally was. I would be interested in hearing comments from others that have done before and after weight measurements. My thought is, if you just raise the WD jacks some more, it will raise the trailer tongue some while also putting more of the weight on the front axle.

These are just my thoughts. I wouldn't even be responding if one of the other members with more experience with the actual weights would chime in.

Ken
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:28 PM   #432
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You're right, 3 inches may be a little much. I've got to take it some place level (not my driveway) and mess around with it some. I will take front and back measurements at the frame.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:09 PM   #433
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It occurs to me that I should, in the interest of keeping with the original intent of this thread, comment some on my installation so that others with my specific trailer and/or tow vehicle can be prepared in advance. The trailer in question is a 2012.5 Eddie Bauer 25' and the TV is a 2012 Suburban 2500.

Over all note: everything went pretty smoothly and the only times that I had any problems it was because I strayed from the directions.

The issues that I ran into are as follows:

- The tray for the LP bottles had to be raised to allow clearance for the U bolts that hold the yoke tail bracket in place. Solution: as posed before, longer screws and some nuts to act as spacers.

- The front guards on the base plate of the spring bar jacks had to be removed to allow clearance for the LP tank cover. Solution: Hacksaw and some rustolium type spray paint.

- Stabilizer bolts for the spring bar jacks were too long because of the battery box. Solution: shorter bolts

- One of the U-bolts for the jack towers was too long, it was hitting the battery box. Solution: Hack sawed off about 1/2 and inch of thread and it was all good.

- Safety chains were too short (the 7 pin connector cable was actually the perfect length). Solution: two 11" sections of chain (rated at 4700lbs each) from the hardware/home improvement store and two clevis link (also 4700lbs rating).

- Too much space between the 1 1/2 nuts and the lock plate welded onto the hitch head. When approaching 250 lb-ft of torque the nuts would actually slip. Solution: wedge a crescent wrench in there. I was hoping to find some metal shims to fill the extra space but I didn't have time.

The best piece of advice I think that I can give is to try to get a friend to help out. This was very doable solo but it would have been a lot faster with a few more hands to help out.

I've only done a little bit of towing with it so far but I'm quite impressed with how effortless that towing was. Great product, totally worth it.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:12 PM   #434
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A thought has occurred to me. An argument for stiffer bars with a heavy duty TV may be that they are required to get the weight back on the front axle. Granted, my trailer is longer and heavier than yours, but technically I should be able to use the 1000 pound bars. However, the amount of bend that I put in the 1400# bars, leaves me 100% convinced that I would not get the job done with 1000# bars. If one is dealing with stiffer springs, it will take more effort to overcome them. Maybe that's backward logic, but it sounds good to me.

Ken
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