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Old 12-24-2011, 07:41 PM   #407
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Installed the hitch today. Took about 4 hours with no issues. Now I have to get it dialed in. In the pic below it appears I'm nose high. I'll either back off on the jacks or drop the hitch one hole. Have not weighed yet either. I will say the 1400 # bars have made the ride a little more harsh than I'm accustomed to but this may work out after more adjusting. I may also experiment with my old 1000 # bars that came off of my Curt hitch. Looks like they should fit. I also switched to a class V receiver.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:59 AM   #408
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Any idea on the amount of torque required to adjust the hitch. I am looking at cordless drill options and wondering what torque operating range it would need to fall within.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:44 AM   #409
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Originally Posted by Timberock View Post
Any idea on the amount of torque required to adjust the hitch. I am looking at cordless drill options and wondering what torque operating range it would need to fall within.
One of the easiest ways to adjust the "jacks" on the PP when hitching or unhitching, is to use the main AS jack to lift the front of the trailer and the receiver portion of the truck hitch in order to remove the resistance to raising / lowering the side jacks. ( only a few inches of elevation are needed)

Then all one has to do is to use the typical drill motor with the appropriate adapter and quickly run those fellas up to a predetermined height, lower the main trailer jack and your off! I have a thin circumferential tape marker on the inside cylinder of each PP jack and on the provided torque handle provided by the company to indicate the level to which I must raise the jacks for travel.

It's a lot faster and less work that trying to use the hand crank. A friend mistakenly tried to use an "impact" drill motor on those jacks, and I believe there was damage....did not turn out to be a "smooth move".
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:02 PM   #410
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Originally Posted by Zigidachs View Post
One of the easiest ways to adjust the "jacks" on the PP when hitching or unhitching, is to use the main AS jack to lift the front of the trailer and the receiver portion of the truck hitch in order to remove the resistance to raising / lowering the side jacks. ( only a few inches of elevation are needed)

Then all one has to do is to use the typical drill motor with the appropriate adapter and quickly run those fellas up to a predetermined height, lower the main trailer jack and your off! I have a thin circumferential tape marker on the inside cylinder of each PP jack and on the provided torque handle provided by the company to indicate the level to which I must raise the jacks for travel.

It's a lot faster and less work that trying to use the hand crank. A friend mistakenly tried to use an "impact" drill motor on those jacks, and I believe there was damage....did not turn out to be a "smooth move".

I know that people use the tongue jack for that purpose with other types of WD hitches. However before I did it, I would want to know how much extra force is being placed on the tongue jack. I am sure it is substantial. It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.

I use the crank type wrench that was supplied with my trailer. Its purpose is to raise/lower the stabilizer pads. However it is the same size as that required to operate the PP jacks. I have determined the number of complete rotations of the wrench for various load conditions. It raises quickly and precisely.

To answer the original question:

The torque required will depend on how much weight you are distributing.

I would suggest you raise it by hand and then use a bar type torgue wrench to measure how much it takes to raise it further. Then get a drill capable of significantly more than that.


Ken
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:57 PM   #411
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It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.

For about 35-years that I can think of.

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Old 02-26-2012, 07:18 PM   #412
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It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.

For about 35-years that I can think of.

.
Are you saying that they spend 35 years designing it that way?

I wonder if they ever accomplished it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:32 PM   #413
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A couple of times I have been dumb enough to try to pry the bars without jacking. At 19, maybe (strong enough and dim enough), but now . . . . ?!!
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:59 PM   #414
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The Barker VIP 3000 that came stock on my CCD will handle 3000 pounds. I seriously doubt you are actually "lifting" the rear of your TV off the ground -- surely you're taking some weight off the springs...but my guess is your tongue jack idea would make this task easier. After my PP was installed, we "dialed in" the WD and I marked the position on the two jacks (though this surely changes with added weight in the TV, trailer, etc). Since the same 3/4" socket that works on the stabilizers also fits on the BAL jacks on the PP, I've been using that system. I have the 1400 lb bars (Sean selected them), and no issues so far. I find hitching and unhitching incredibly easy.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:46 PM   #415
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Thank you 2Air! What a great resource!

I've made the leap and have ordered the ProPride for our 25' EB / Ford F-150 combo. Sean has been great as you all indicated he would be. He recommended the 1400lbs bars (the biggest) for this set up which seemed a bit beefier than I was expecting. As did Craig at Airstream Adventures NW. Reading threads it seems like lots of 1000lb bars are paired with the 25' Airstreams. In several threads there is also a "lighter bars are better" philosophy (less stress, wear and tear etc).

Ultimately Sean is the Man when it comes to making a recommendation and I'm fully planning to take his advice. But to be thourough I'm also curious to hear from anyone towing the 25'ers with the ProPride. Especially with the F-150. Thoughts on bar sizing? Any reason not to get the 1400lb bars?

Thought this might also be helpful to others in the future as part of the broader PP Unofficial Guide.

Thanks!!

BC
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #416
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Originally Posted by bc_seattle
Thank you 2Air! What a great resource!

I've made the leap and have ordered the ProPride for our 25' EB / Ford F-150 combo. Sean has been great as you all indicated he would be. He recommended the 1400lbs bars (the biggest) for this set up which seemed a bit beefier than I was expecting. As did Craig at Airstream Adventures NW. Reading threads it seems like lots of 1000lb bars are paired with the 25' Airstreams. In several threads there is also a "lighter bars are better" philosophy (less stress, wear and tear etc).

Ultimately Sean is the Man when it comes to making a recommendation and I'm fully planning to take his advice. But to be thourough I'm also curious to hear from anyone towing the 25'ers with the ProPride. Especially with the F-150. Thoughts on bar sizing? Any reason not to get the 1400lb bars?

Thought this might also be helpful to others in the future as part of the broader PP Unofficial Guide.

Thanks!!

BC
BC

I find that very interesting because he recommended the 1000 bars for my EB. I was towing with a 1/2 ton Suburban at the time but have since gotten a 3/4 ton. I suggest that you send him an email and ask him. I plan on doing the same.

- Phil
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:23 PM   #417
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BC

I find that very interesting because he recommended the 1000 bars for my EB. I was towing with a 1/2 ton Suburban at the time but have since gotten a 3/4 ton. I suggest that you send him an email and ask him. I plan on doing the same.

- Phil
Phil,

Curious about a) your experiences with the 1000lb bars and the EB and b) what drove you from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton.

BC
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:05 PM   #418
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Phil,

Curious about a) your experiences with the 1000lb bars and the EB and b) what drove you from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton.

BC
I'll let you know when the PP get's here after the 26th!

If you go to the Tow Vehicles forum you can find my agonizing thought process behind the switch. Basically, the 1/2 ton didn't have the payload or power to get the job done comfortably. What it came down to is not wanting to spend my vacations worrying about the weight of my trailer. As you know, we have real mountains in the Pacific NW so that was a consideration too.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:52 AM   #419
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BC Seattle I have a suspicion we meet at Airstreams NW about two weeks ago. I think my wife and I spoke with you as we were installing our ProPride on our F150 and 27' Flying Cloud. If so it sounds like Dan hooked you up on a truck.

One reason Sean may be recommending the heaver bars is based off what we are going through and not wanting to have you experience the same. When we completed our install we had to raise the jacks almost to thier maximum and still were 3/4 of inch high at the front wheels of the truck. Part of this problem was the hitch box height needing to come up and since then we have raised it 2 inches. Additionally Sean recommended we move to 1400 lb. bars so that we would not need nearly the jack height. The new bars are due to arrive on Friday.

Given that the 25' models actually have a higher tongue weight and you are towing with a F150 you are likely to experience the same issues we hit. I am betting that Sean is trying to short circuit the need to swap out the bars.

I plan on installing the new bars this weekend and taking a trip to the CAT scales in North Bend to really dial things in. You are welcome to come over and observe so you have some info going into your install.

On a side note I need to call out the outstanding customer service that Sean at ProPride provides. Not only was he availble for install help on a weekend but Easter weekend at that. No problems at all getting the bars swapped out either. I would pretty much recommend ProPride at this point on customer service alone - it is rare to see that level of commitment from a company these days.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:11 PM   #420
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I guess that I always assumed that the bars would be determined by the TT only but I makes sense to take the TV into account as well. I wonder what it is about the F150 that requires the heavier bars?
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