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Old 10-06-2009, 08:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
I went into the garage to double check anything that could be missing and it seems that I will have to purchase 2 smaller bolts.The ones I have are for the W/D adjusters.It is the bolt that keeps the adjustable arm in place onto the frame.My battery box is in the way of it.These are 3 1/2 inch bolts and I will need 2 inch ones instead.
I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
I ran into a problem requiring different length bolts somewhere also, but I don't remember where. Remember, it is a matter of safety, so buy the best tools you can find. (oh, and make sure they are shiny) That's one of my motto's.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:10 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
...I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
hi devo'

the truck lugs require 170 ft-lbs so i am already carrying a 250 wrench and a breaker bar...

the problem is, it's the typical length (about 24 inches) for a torque wrench.

so i tried using it for the 250 of torque on the yoke nuts/bolts...

and just about ruptured a lung. no i actually DID rupture a lung...

one can use a standard 'breaker bar' and add a pipe extension for leverage, but NOT know how tight is tight.

home d'pot sells a HUSKY branded torque wrench that is spec'd 30-250 ft-lbs...

what is NICE about this torque wrench is that it is more than 3 feet long, so gettin' to 250 ft-lbs is MUCH easier...

i only bruised a kidney using it.
_______________

for ANY of the critical or FIRMLY tightened nuts/bolts i suggest using sockets or closed in wrenches...

avoid adjustable/crescent style or open-end wrenches for this...

you'll just bust knuckles, round off the nuts and still NOT get the job done.
______________

and don't be tempted to buy the SMALL grease gun with the smaller cartridges...

takes too many pumps and the cartridges don't last very long.

look for the standard size grease gun and larger (10-12 inch) cartridges...

most auto parts stores sell these...

i am using synthetic RED grease, which isn't necessary and is 1-2$ more per tube.

but the red stuff SHOWS UP clearly on the black hitch and darkens as it age, so when re-greasing it's obvious when to stop...

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:42 AM   #31
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Duh

It took me a good :20 minutes to finally see the photo in post 12 of the hitch WITH OUT THE STINGER!

My first thoughts were it looks like a really well thought out system except-

"how does the average streamer back up at the proper place to get the hitch pin hole lined up? I hear that a HAHA can be a learning curve getting the stinger to align but this PP is gonna be a bear if ya gotta back onto the hitch and insert the pin!"

Then I saw the photo with the stinger removed and the OCD arms - whew.

Great idea for a new thread.
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:03 PM   #32
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yeah THIS is a real man's hitch!


Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
...Then I saw the photo with the stinger removed and the OCD arms - whew. ...
hi hiho'

since the topic is THE pp, only seemed appropriate to INCLUDE the stinger, sticking OUT from the hitch...

didn't i write NOSE job?
_____________

now about hooking up, using the tv receiver box and FRONT end of the stinger (which are much tighter to match)...

VERY early on i used this approach with the haha and it really WAS a challenge. i did get hooked/unhooked but MAN it was hard...

then i got less dumb, and switched to the EASY and normal approach.

but the 'tuffer/tighter' connection approach did protect my trailer from being towed away once,

by a shady a/s dealer-service shop (they were gonna impound it till the CRAZY warranty bill was paid by jackson center or me )...

i returned to the shop only to find (and watch) them TRYING to hook up for a tow...

lots of head scratching and "i dunno bout this here thang..."

so i think of the UNCOMMON hitch apparatus as a security device protecting the A frame and cup and trailer from disappearing.

(many posts on the stinger/hookup/alignment will appear in THIS thread)

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:22 AM   #33
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Problems

Ok.I have put everything on and I wanted to take it out for a tow and get to a level area to do some tweeking on it to make it all perfect.Well.Being that where I live and how the road is to my driveway.It is 2 different angles.Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up.I tried everything I could to get my reciever to hook up into the PP but it just wont do it.
I have started taking it back apart to see if I can wiggle some things around to get it right.
Any Ideas?
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:33 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
Ok.I have put everything on and I wanted to take it out for a tow and get to a level area to do some tweeking on it to make it all perfect.Well.Being that where I live and how the road is to my driveway.It is 2 different angles.Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up.I tried everything I could to get my reciever to hook up into the PP but it just wont do it.
I have started taking it back apart to see if I can wiggle some things around to get it right.
Any Ideas?
I would suggest you call Sean. He is very accessible and helpful.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:13 AM   #35
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Adjustment

I just adjusted the W/D arms to readjust the head a bit.This is round 2 so if I end up doing it a 3rd time I will call him.
It has been taking me a while to get this set up because it is so hot here right now.I have to go in every 10 to 15 min to cool down a bit and drink lots of water.
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:48 AM   #36
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...It is 2 different angles.
Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.
You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up...
steve

start by taking a look at THIS pic...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1161056559

notice how the stinger is pointing down AND the hitch box opening is also pointing down, that won't work!

now see how they are parallel after adjusting the jacks...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...7&d=1161056828

DO NOT LOOSEN critical STUFF on the pp to adjust for hookups.

IF the install is correct, don't move the head or yoke around.

i haven't had time to put the pics here yet for the pp, but the same process is the same for both hitches.
____________________

IF the back of the tv/stinger is sloping DOWN....\\\

the stinger box on the pp must be sloping UP to match the angle....\\\

like this...(tow vehicle)->\\\ --- \\\<-(trailer)

this UP slope is accomplished by LOOSENing the screw jacks on each side...

as they are loosend the box on the pp will start pointing UP....

then raise/lower the A frame jack to match the tv height.
____________________

IF the back of the tv/stinger is sloping UP...-///

the stinger box on the pp must be sloping DOWN to match it...///-

like this...(tow vehicle)->/// --- ///<-(trailer)

this DOWN slope is accomplished by TIGHTENing the screw jacks on each side...

as they are TIGHTENED the stinger BOX on the pp will start pointing DOWN....

then raise/lower the A frame jack to match the tv height.
_____________________

so the 2 items (stinger on back of tv & box on front of pp) need to be PARALLEL to each other...

like this =-= or this \\-\\ or this //-//

does THAT make sense...

THEN the A frame jack is used to raise/lower the hitch head box opening to the stinger height...

again look at the pics of the one posted in the link above.
_____________________

the ONLY change in the install (if done correctly) would be to attach the w/d bars using DIFFERENT HOLES on the jack extensions...

see the 3rd pic in post #16 here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...2&d=1254866425

the instructions tell us to use the 'center' hole, my pic shows the 6 holes available...

to get MORE UP slope on the box, it might be necessary to use hole 1 or 2 at the top.
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also the 2 segments of the stinger should be assembled so that are PARALLEL with each other for now...

see the stinger pics..

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:53 PM   #37
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Done

I got it all working.I just had to readjust the swing arms.They were set on the wrong setting and the hitch head was positioned wrong because of it.Everything is set to go.I did tighten the W/D arms a bit and got it up about 2 inches.That is all I could do so far because the airsuspension was starting to have a conflict with it.I set the vehicle into a permanent setting(Comfort setting) and readjusted and now it works perfectly.
Just from driving around a few blocks I can seriously tell a huge difference in traveling with this hitch.I do believe this is well worth every penny spent.Unhooking was very easy to do also.
Well....Time for some pictures.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:03 PM   #38
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Pictures

I got the grease gun and torque wrench from home depot.
The grease gun is great because you can use it with one hand and it has a spring loaded handle to retract back.I got it for about $25.00

Torqing something to 250 lbs is a lot of force.I am just glad I was able to do this by myself.
The Torque wrench cost about $70.00
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:11 PM   #39
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Bolt

I had a slight problem when putting my adjustable arm on.Everything went on smooth until I had to put the bolt on that went into the side of it to keep it from moving left to right.The bolt was 3 1/2 inches long.What was stopping me was the battery box.
So I went to lowes and purchased a couple Grade 8 USS 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 inch bolts instead.and it fit with out a problem at all.Actually the bolt is still really long for its size.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:25 PM   #40
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Propane Tanks

When doing the propane tanks I had to readjust the height on it.The U-bolts were setting underneath it and it would not let the propane tank base plate sit on the frame anymore.I fixed this by getting longer screws from Lowes and I purchased 2 nuts slightly larger than the screws and used them as washers to lift the plate above the u-bolts.It worked out perfect.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:31 PM   #41
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Extension chains

I am glad this kit came with the PP.I needed those chains in the end and it worked out perfect.
The extra kit comes with a 7 pin plug adapter.
Extension chains
and extra emergency break away cable.

As you can see in the picture I used every inch of that thing.I was short about 2 or 3 links so I just used it all and tied the rest up with plastic ties.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:37 PM   #42
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