The unofficial pp users guide...

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by SteveH

My U-bolt installation looks just like yours, I did not install any kind of spacers, and my bottles do not hit the U-bolts.

Mine do hit the U-bolts just enough to concern me so I'll add my plywood spacer as insurance. That will also add a little clearance of the tank cover from riding on the wiring and on the jack bases.

I can't see where the frame bracket should move or should need to move when backing and still serve its function when towing.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by w7ts

Secondly, regarding the yoke movement here is a quote from post 232 in this thread.
Ken

I like the method described for keeping the yoke properly centered. Next time past Home Depot I'll pick up some appropriate hardware and do the same.

[Morgan guy]

I currently have a Valley WD hitch with 1000# bars (trunnion bars). I have read every post in this thread and am seriously considering the PP. I have a few questions that I would like to get answered first.
1. Since the PP hangs down below the coupler and the weight bars on the PP insert from the bottom unlike my trunnion bars it appears that I will lose a lot of ground clearance. I did not see any comments regarding clearance in this thread but has anyone experienced high centering problems?
2. Where I store my TT is on a flat, level surface. However my TV is at an angle (about 10-15 degrees) downhill from the TT when I am hitching. Will this present a problem hooking up with the PP?
Great info on this forum.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

1. Since the PP hangs down below the coupler and the weight bars on the PP insert from the bottom unlike my trunnion bars it appears that I will lose a lot of ground clearance. I did not see any comments regarding clearance in this thread but has anyone experienced high centering problems?
2. Where I store my TT is on a flat, level surface. However my TV is at an angle (about 10-15 degrees) downhill from the TT when I am hitching. Will this present a problem hooking up with the PP?
Great info on this forum.

I have had the bottom of the bars scrape while entering/exiting driveways that have a steep angle, but it has not been a real problem. I do not take the 31 footer "off road".

An angle while either unhitching, or hitching can be a problem. The worst case I have expereinced was when the front of the tow vehicle was up, causing me to unhook the "U" bolts from the bars to raise the front of the hitch to get the draw bar to go in. Doesn't happen often, but when it does, it's a hastle.

[Ridgerunner3]

Ken, after I read your fix for the sliding yoke frame bracket, I planned to do the same fix. I have not had any problems with the frame bracket moving, but it still sounded like a good preventive move. I did not see any comment by Sean on this modification, so, I sent an email to Sean to see what his thoughts are on the modification before I do it. I thought it would be good to share his response.

From Sean: "That works but make sure you do not bump up against the stop in a tight reverse situation. The stop is the 1/4" plate on top of the main unit. When the hitch head rotates to 85 degrees the links will hit that stop. If you continue to push something has to give. Usually, the frame bracket will shift to the side and it is easy to reposition it. If you put the bolts in and push you will bend the yoke arm. It isn't common but just be aware of that if you are going to use bolts in the frame bracket."

Originally Posted by w7ts

I had the yoke move a couple of times when I first got the hitch. The only thing holding it in position left and right is the friction of the nuts and rectangular plate on the bottom side of the channel cross bar and the friction of the bar and the A frame.

This is what I did to hold the yoke in place:
I placed 1/2 in bolts up through the space remaining on the outside of the slot on both sides and placed a washer and nut on top. In my installation, the head of the bolt was just the correct width to rest against the edge of the plate on the bottom, and keep the bar from sliding either left or right.

This is not factory sanctioned, but works great for me.

Regards,

Ken

[2airishuman]

hi guys/gals/users/friends/watchers/trolls and all the other brilLLliant screen pixels...

goofy home brewed tweaks offered for free from some cat with a mouse are not fixes.

they come from folks who want you to screw up your hitch like they have

based on the idea that lemmings in mass offer protection from the cliff drop...

IF the hitch needs a fix let the designer/builder/manufacturer create it.

force has got to go somewhere and the bracket/yoke/Ubolts as designed allow for that, when the USER takes the angles to the limit.

this is akin to the shear bolts used on the older faded orange design with struts.

haha users got the 'wise idea' that replacing shear bolts with higher grade hardware was a fix...

when all that did/does/dooo is result in the struts bending/breaking...

or in this design the yoke/bracket being damaged by extreme angle turns/backing.

leave the friggin bracket/U bolts/yoke-finger alone or at the most follow the design and set up.
_________

while raising the tanks via a wood shim (on classics) or raising the tank brackets with bolts/washers (safari/flying cloud) is ok...

and perhaps necessary on some trailer A frames or years/models...

those are trailer mods not a hitch mods...be very careful about using free advice to FIX the hitch...

it's not broken as designed.

there are pictures at the front end of this thread that show bracket/Ubolt placement on the classic A frame...

+/- .5 to 1 inch of placement on either side of the specified 25 inches from the cup will clear the tank bottoms on the classics.

still raising the tanks a bit does SOLVE the airstream design failure that allows the jack wiring to wear through and catch fire...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f353...fe-39545.html?

but that's not a PP problem it's an airstream issue

(current models finally come with the keyhole cut suggested HERE in that older thread linked above)
___________

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

...I have read every post in this thread and am seriously considering the PP. I have a few questions that I would like to get answered first.

1. Since the PP hangs down below the coupler and the weight bars on the PP insert from the bottom unlike my trunnion bars it appears that I will lose a lot of ground clearance. I did not see any comments regarding clearance in this thread but has anyone experienced high centering problems?

how'dee morgan guy, KUDOS for reading it all...you will like this contraption.

ask sean for the pp' discount ne1 who reads the entire thread and passes a simple 10 question test may get a discount*

while any low fruit may occasionally drag, clearance is not really an issue. the spare tire bracket hangs just as low at the w/d bars...

yes there are rare conditions which may get the w/d bars near the ground


(like a continuously sloping campsite with sufficient angle relative to trailer length)

for visual confirmation of clearance look at some of the early pix in this thread OR in the sticky at the top of this sub forum...

((some topics were intentionally NOT covered in this newer thread because they had been throughly addressed in the haha thread))

spend a bit of time there and you'll begin to see the commonality vs the unique or improved features on the ppz...

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

...
2. Where I store my TT is on a flat, level surface. However my TV is at an angle (about 10-15 degrees) downhill from the TT when I am hitching. Will this present a problem hooking up with the PP?...

in situations where the TV and trailer r on different angles RIGHT AT the hitch junction hooking up is still simple...

one simply loosens/tightens/adjusts the the jacks which alters the hitch head angle to match the TV/stinger angle ...

doing this during DISconnect/UNhooking allows the TV/stinger to pop free from the trailer/hitch head angle...

now just LEAVE the hitch head at that smooth disconnect angle.

then on REconnects/HITCH up the proper angle will already be there...

again this is covered in multiple places in the sticky thread on the old orange contraption.

the process is basically the same on the PP but the improved design of the hitch box means hook up at angles is much much much easier now.
_______

for the girl scout who posted in frustration earlier...

towing, maintaining, inspecting for safety

and generally fiddling with trailers and vehicles and hitches is a learned skill set.

wanna travel by trailer? acquire, learn and use the skill set...it's all within reach for almost every1.

there is not much point in hashing over your weight readings from a vehicle that has been SOLD...

when you get a new rig post some data and folks will help.

i would also caution you (and others) about so called HELP provided via PMz,

it is 87.4% of the time provided by some1 with too little spine to put there words in the OPEN FORUM for scrutiny ...

sorta like a stock tip.

telling you that posting your TV model would have resulted in ridicule is total HORSEapples...

it's also not really all that hard to sort out using the w/d-spring bars to balance the axle/tire loads on the TV or trailer...

folks providing FORMULA and links to other forums and PHD sounding crap are looking for self importance via complications...

after all isn't the secret to buying/selling stocks (not trading options) simply to buy low and sell high?

so start by weighing the TV axles and make note of the FRONT (steering axle) reading...

the goal of adjusting the w/d/spring/jack bars (after adding the trailer) is to RESTORE the steering axle loads to that original scale value.

no formula required, just note the 'buy price' and try to sell at the same price and no less.

the tv does NOT need to be perfectly level, again horses are dropping those apples.

getting the trailer level is another issue and starts with properly setting up the stinger for height/drop...

again when you actually OWN a tow vehicle and workout hitching post some pix and help will come...

or find a smart smurf to cOpILot.

cheers
2air'

*not really a discount morgan guy, just playing with ya...
____________
\/ \/ \/ \/

((yeah guys i check in and read here from time2time but for the most part air forums has become an enormous waste of cyber space and time))

i do think some threads continue to be useful in spite of the vision and direction provided by the social nonsense network...

trick or treat!

((_((please don't send me any welcome back notes, i am not back))_))


post your trick or tread messages here please...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...th-18538.html?

now i am headed back to the candy bowl...

vaya con ayrestreema en hiya hoe slivaOsilver

[dmand001]

My driveway is on an incline and in order for me to get in and out I have to drop the WD bars of my standard hitch as it does bottom out. Not much of a problem as these WD bars just pop-in and out easily. But the PP has these U-bolts which poses as a burden in removing and installing everytime that we travel. I am thinking of purchasing the PP but have reservations because of the issues mentioned above. Are my concerns valid or not? Any help or suggestions is welcomed as I do like the PP a lot.

[rochar3]

HELLO
I have had my Pp for several years and am very pleased with it. The bars are not designed to be removed etc the way you need. But, I would give Sean A call. He is very helpful and maybe can suggest a work around. Good luck
Bob

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dmand001

My driveway is on an incline and in order for me to get in and out I have to drop the WD bars of my standard hitch as it does bottom out. Not much of a problem as these WD bars just pop-in and out easily. But the PP has these U-bolts which poses as a burden in removing and installing everytime that we travel. I am thinking of purchasing the PP but have reservations because of the issues mentioned above. Are my concerns valid or not? Any help or suggestions is welcomed as I do like the PP a lot.

I think you concerns are valid. I've scraped my bars a few times, but would not want to make a routine of it.

Are you backing up a hill or down a hill?


Maybe someone can weld little wheels on the bottom of the bars.

Depending on how close you are to clearing the ground, you might be able to use the WD jacks to raise the rear of the truck enough to clear. Unless you have 4WD, this might cause a traction problem.

However I wouldn't do either of these without knowing more than I do.

Ken

[richinny]

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by richinny

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

When I put emoticons in my post, I believe it says somewhere in the forums rules that you must also use emoticons, if you wish to take issue with what I posted.

Ken

I'm pretty sure my statement is not correctly punctuated. Feel free to correct it as long as you use emoticons

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by richinny

i think welding would change the temper of the bars. also, if the bars are scratched they should be sanded smooth and painted again.

I feel that is a waste of time, because I will probably scrape them again. That will scrape off whatever rust has formed.

Ken

[slowmover]

I've scraped mine a few times and not worried over it. But if it were a feature of parking it at home or storage yard, I think I'd come up with another entry angle or a ramp (sandbags, etc). A few threads around here on problems with street curb angles/heights, with suggestions which may work.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I think the third generation of this type hitch should raise the bars, litterally. All of the Ha Ha's and P P's are so close to the ground. I'm sure that if they wanted to, or were willing to, they could re-design their hitch so as to have the spring bars much closer to the bottom of the trailer's frame. Sean?

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I think the third generation of this type hitch should raise the bars, litterally. All of the Ha Ha's and P P's are so close to the ground. I'm sure that if they wanted to, or were willing to, they could re-design their hitch so as to have the spring bars much closer to the bottom of the trailer's frame. Sean?

I'm not sure where else they could be attached. They have to lift from UNDER the hitch head and hitch ball.

Maybe we could get Airstream to raise their hitch ball height. It is the lowest in the industry. (I'm kidding of course)


-

[dmand001]

I will try backing up using home made wooden ramps w/ my standard WD bars loosely on and see if that clears it. If it does then the PP is a possibility. What is the measurement from ground level is the lowest point of the PP? I suppose it would be the WD bars as well. Just maybe one PP owner lives close by in the bay area, ca for a test run on my driveway before I buy one, wishful thinking there.
Thx for the responses btw

[Ridgerunner3]

Just finished my first big trip with the Propride hitch. 1200 miles, some interstate, mostly two lane road. Strong gusty side winds on one day of the journey. The hitch performs exactly the way described by Sean and other owners. Extremely stable travel experience. Very pleased with performance. Glad I went with the Propride with the Jim Hensley improvements over the original Hensley design (lower price too).

I viewed the youtube hook-up / un-hook videos on the Propride site before hooking-up the first time. Very easy to hook-up by yourself. Much quicker and cleaner than hooking up my dual cam hitch.

I have not been in any extreme AS/TV angles during hook-up, so I can't speak to that type of situation. From my experience, I would think that the AS/TV angles would be very extreme before there would be any problem with hook-up / un-hook.

[Pahaska]

I also just finished my first trip (actually, my first tow) with the ProPride. 200-mile round trip to Kerrville in gusting crosswinds. Not a wiggle from the trailer. I found that the truck steering feels much more lively, more like without the trailer.

Backing into the storage slot was a bit different. When I first put the truck in reverse, there were two loud clunks from the hitch that startled me a bit. Once moving backward, the trailer steered into the space quite nicely. It seems to take a bit more distance to get the trailer start to turn. After that, it turned like any other hitch.

I'm still working on jack tension. I put two short vertical strips of black Velcro on the rear corners of the propane tank cover. I cut two small squares of white Velcro as markers for the bottom of the jack outer tube that I can easily move up and down as needed. I have them at about the 6" position and the rig feels good.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

I
I'm still working on jack tension. I put two short vertical strips of black Velcro on the rear corners of the propane tank cover. I cut two small squares of white Velcro as markers for the bottom of the jack outer tube that I can easily move up and down as needed. I have them at about the 6" position and the rig feels good.

John, In the beginning with my hitch I tried measurements of the jacks, then marks, then measured sticks, but have settled on counting the turns from full down position. And, you will be surprised in the difference one turn makes on each jack.

[Ridgerunner3]

Originally Posted by SteveH

John, In the beginning with my hitch I tried measurements of the jacks, then marks, then measured sticks, but have settled on counting the turns from full down position. And, you will be surprised in the difference one turn makes on each jack.

How many turns are you setting yours at?

I have been measuring jack travel. I have tried 5.5 and 6.0 inches. I don't notice any difference in truck handling with either setting. Both are great.

CAT scale readings have been confusing. I weighed the loaded for camping truck on one CAT scale and then weighed the entire rig on a different CAT scale. Scale weights did not make sense. I need to go back, start all over, and weigh at the same scale during the same trip to the scale.