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Old 10-27-2012, 01:52 PM   #521
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Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
Note to Sean: Even if the A-frame was a C-channel, the supplied bolts are far longer than will be ever needed.
I agree - I don't see where bolts of this length would be an advantage. During my install I needed a late night run to Home Depot to get shorter bolts.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:19 PM   #522
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I agree - I don't see where bolts of this length would be an advantage. During my install I needed a late night run to Home Depot to get shorter bolts.
Just a guess, but I imagine that some SOBs and other trailer types have deeper frames than Airstreams, I don't know what portion of ProPride orders are for Airstreams, but I'm guessing it is only a small percentage.

Ken
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:43 PM   #523
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Just a guess, but I imagine that some SOBs and other trailer types have deeper frames than Airstreams, I don't know what portion of ProPride orders are for Airstreams, but I'm guessing it is only a small percentage.

Ken
There's a maximum width frame that the jack will fit over - even at maximum width, and a 'C' cross section as suggested by Pahaska, the bolt is still too long. Even so - given the cost of the hitch, throwing in a couple of shorter bolts would be appreciated.

As for percentage of purchases being for Airstreams...a somewhat related story. I put my trailer into winter storage today. Talking with the operator of the storage facility, I was explaining that he was not going to be able to move the trailer using his standard hitch ball equipment.

He was vaguely aware of the propride and equivalent hitches - saying they appeared to be common with "those silver trailers".
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:24 PM   #524
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There's a maximum width frame that the jack will fit over - even at maximum width, and a 'C' cross section as suggested by Pahaska, the bolt is still too long. Even so - given the cost of the hitch, throwing in a couple of shorter bolts would be appreciated.



As for percentage of purchases being for Airstreams...a somewhat related story. I put my trailer into winter storage today. Talking with the operator of the storage facility, I was explaining that he was not going to be able to move the trailer using his standard hitch ball equipment.

He was vaguely aware of the propride and equivalent hitches - saying they appeared to be common with "those silver trailers".
My trailer is not here, so I looked at my manual. You are correct. My theory was hatched by a mind that didn't have the picture. I however refuse to take responsibility. It was my brain's fault.

Ken
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:23 PM   #525
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An effect of encephalopathy per cat scratch fever. Careful, now . . . .
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:24 PM   #526
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My trailer is not here, so I looked at my manual. You are correct. My theory was hatched by a mind that didn't have the picture. I however refuse to take responsibility. It was my brain's fault.

Ken
No worries - out of sight, out of mind.

I too had to go back and look at the photos at the beginning of this thread to remind me of the construction. I can no longer just run out to the driveway as the trailer has been moved to covered storage for the pending snow.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:26 PM   #527
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An effect of encephalopathy per cat scratch fever. Careful, now . . . .
I'll pretend I understood that without the help of google...

One learns far more than just about Airstreams on this forum.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:50 PM   #528
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All installed

Everything went together easily this morning and a couple of test hookups using my backup camera went perfectly. I haven't towed yet since I ran out of time before meeting a friend for lunch. I did find that I will need to raise the stinger one more hole than the calculated setting to make the trailer ride level.

The only problem I have is that the U-bolts for the frame bracket are under the propane tanks and I will need a spacer of some sort to prevent wearing slots in the aluminum tanks. The tanks set right on the frame. My first thought is to cut two circles out of some scrap 1/2" marine plywood I have in the shop, mark the U-bolt location from underneath, and cut a slot with the sabre saw so that the circles will lie flat. The tanks will then be sitting on wood and not touch the U-bolts. How did others address this problem? If anyone has a magic solution I would be glad to hear it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:00 PM   #529
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Everything went together easily this morning and a couple of test hookups using my backup camera went perfectly. I haven't towed yet since I ran out of time before meeting a friend for lunch. I did find that I will need to raise the stinger one more hole than the calculated setting to make the trailer ride level.

The only problem I have is that the U-bolts for the frame bracket are under the propane tanks and I will need a spacer of some sort to prevent wearing slots in the aluminum tanks. The tanks set right on the frame. My first thought is to cut two circles out of some scrap 1/2" marine plywood I have in the shop, mark the U-bolt location from underneath, and cut a slot with the sabre saw so that the circles will lie flat. The tanks will then be sitting on wood and not touch the U-bolts. How did others address this problem? If anyone has a magic solution I would be glad to hear it.
Check post # 219. It has worked will for me.

Ken
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:06 PM   #530
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Check post # 219. It has worked will for me.

Ken
Thanks, but that is not my problem. Post #219 addresses the jacks, but I am talking about the U-bolts for the frame bracket that are directly under the propane tanks. I'll take a photo when I next get to the storage yard.

My proposed fix for my problem would raise the tanks 1/2" and directly address the post #219 problem as a side effect.

BTW: I lived in Boulder, Longmont, and Carter Lake for some years before moving to Austin with IBM in 1981.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #531
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Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
Everything went together easily this morning and a couple of test hookups using my backup camera went perfectly. I haven't towed yet since I ran out of time before meeting a friend for lunch. I did find that I will need to raise the stinger one more hole than the calculated setting to make the trailer ride level..

I installed my 3P about 10 days ago. I had to increase my stinger one hole also to level the trailer when the WD bars where set about right. The install is pretty straight forward on the 3P. I still need to head to the scales to dial the WD in. Initial guess setting on WD seem to be close. It's a really fine piece of equipment.

Mine already had a spacers under the propane tank rack to accommodate the U-bolts for the old style dual cam hitch arms.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:24 PM   #532
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Thanks, but that is not my problem. Post #219 addresses the jacks, but I am talking about the U-bolts for the frame bracket that are directly under the propane tanks. I'll take a photo when I next get to the storage yard.

My proposed fix for my problem would raise the tanks 1/2" and directly address the post #219 problem as a side effect.

BTW: I lived in Boulder, Longmont, and Carter Lake for some years before moving to Austin with IBM in 1981.
There was a fix suggest in post #40. I used a similar method - substiuting washers instead of two bolts. I also installed longer maching screws into the A-Frame to insure a sufficient number of threads.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #533
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Thanks, but that is not my problem. Post #219 addresses the jacks, but I am talking about the U-bolts for the frame bracket that are directly under the propane tanks. I'll take a photo when I next get to the storage yard.

My proposed fix for my problem would raise the tanks 1/2" and directly address the post #219 problem as a side effect.

BTW: I lived in Boulder, Longmont, and Carter Lake for some years before moving to Austin with IBM in 1981.
I can't believe I posted that. I composed it but had second thoughts. I reread your post and realized it was different problem. I guess I fumble fingered the button pushing. If you miss this area, I'll trade houses with you until March.

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Old 10-28-2012, 09:12 PM   #534
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I understand the confusion after looking at post #40 photos. You see, my trailer does not have a propane bottle rack like that shown in post #40. In my trailer, there are simply two loops of steel strip formed into circles and welded to the frame to locate the bottoms of the bottles. The bottles sit directly on the frame and on two steel tabs welded to the front of the storage box behind the bottles. Except for the frame and these tabs, there is nothing under the bottles.

Since my bottles sit directly on the frame, I'll go with my original plan which is putting 1/2" plywood under the bottles.

It is odd that Airstream should use two totally dissimilar designs for the bottle rack. Obviously the rack on my trailer is simpler and has no removable parts, nuts, screws, etc. It was painted right along with the A-frame.

I'll take some photos tomorrow.

I do miss Colorado, but my wife will NOT go where it snows.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:19 PM   #535
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Everything went together easily this morning and a couple of test hookups using my backup camera went perfectly. I haven't towed yet since I ran out of time before meeting a friend for lunch. I did find that I will need to raise the stinger one more hole than the calculated setting to make the trailer ride level.

The only problem I have is that the U-bolts for the frame bracket are under the propane tanks and I will need a spacer of some sort to prevent wearing slots in the aluminum tanks. The tanks set right on the frame. My first thought is to cut two circles out of some scrap 1/2" marine plywood I have in the shop, mark the U-bolt location from underneath, and cut a slot with the sabre saw so that the circles will lie flat. The tanks will then be sitting on wood and not touch the U-bolts. How did others address this problem? If anyone has a magic solution I would be glad to hear it.

Hi, I am not sure how much clearance you need, but I have always used 1/2" automotive heater hose, split lengthwise....not so much for a clearance issue, but rather a protection from rubbing, chipping, and rusting of the frame. Worth a try.. maybe a thicker walled hosing?
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:35 PM   #536
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I understand the confusion after looking at post #40 photos. You see, my trailer does not have a propane bottle rack like that shown in post #40. In my trailer, there are simply two loops of steel strip formed into circles and welded to the frame to locate the bottoms of the bottles. The bottles sit directly on the frame and on two steel tabs welded to the front of the storage box behind the bottles. Except for the frame and these tabs, there is nothing under the bottles.

Since my bottles sit directly on the frame, I'll go with my original plan which is putting 1/2" plywood under the bottles.

It is odd that Airstream should use two totally dissimilar designs for the bottle rack. Obviously the rack on my trailer is simpler and has no removable parts, nuts, screws, etc. It was painted right along with the A-frame.

I'll take some photos tomorrow.

I do miss Colorado, but my wife will NOT go where it snows.
Unfortunately I can't use that for an excuse for being confused. My bottles are mounted exactly like yours. The only thing I can guess is mine are slightly closer to, or futher from the tongue. I am going by memory also because our trailer is in storage. I will go check in thenext day or two.

I agree with your wife. Snow is like a grizzly bear. It has its place in nature, but should not be commingled with humans.

Ken
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:30 AM   #537
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Here is my bottle mounting. I will cut out two 8" diameter disks of scrap 1/2" exterior plywood to fit in the loops and then cut a 1/4" pie slice out of each disk to clear the U-bolt. That should raise the bottles above the U-bolt very nicely.

Our first trip with the new hitch will be about 90 miles to a rally in about 10 days.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:04 AM   #538
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hmmm bottom of lp bottles?

My PP layout looks exactly like the photo in the above post (go figger) the bottom of my lp bottles have a flange and clear the u-bolts completely. Have you actually put the bottles on there? I know they come close, but the bottle sits directly on the frame and is held there with a threaded rod/wing nut (big momma wing nut). So I figured even if the flange touched the ubolt there would be no movement to cause any trouble. After my last trip, I noticed the ubolts have allowed the centering "frame bracket" to move to the road side. This is confusing me and I will investigate. I asked Sean if this "frame bracket" could be welded to the frame-his answer was yes, but welding it would take away some side-to-side movement of this bracket when backing. Like I said, I am still thinking about this. I will try to understand the forces and why bolting is preferable to welding.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #539
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Here is my bottle mounting. I will cut out two 8" diameter disks of scrap 1/2" exterior plywood to fit in the loops and then cut a 1/4" pie slice out of each disk to clear the U-bolt. That should raise the bottles above the U-bolt very nicely.

Our first trip with the new hitch will be about 90 miles to a rally in about 10 days.
My U-bolt installation looks just like yours, I did not install any kind of spacers, and my bottles do not hit the U-bolts.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:50 AM   #540
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My PP layout looks exactly like the photo in the above post (go figger) the bottom of my lp bottles have a flange and clear the u-bolts completely. Have you actually put the bottles on there? I know they come close, but the bottle sits directly on the frame and is held there with a threaded rod/wing nut (big momma wing nut). So I figured even if the flange touched the ubolt there would be no movement to cause any trouble. After my last trip, I noticed the ubolts have allowed the centering "frame bracket" to move to the road side. This is confusing me and I will investigate. I asked Sean if this "frame bracket" could be welded to the frame-his answer was yes, but welding it would take away some side-to-side movement of this bracket when backing. Like I said, I am still thinking about this. I will try to understand the forces and why bolting is preferable to welding.
First of all, my bottles sit as you describe with no interference.

Secondly, regarding the yoke movement here is a quote from post 232 in this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post

.................................................. ..................

I had the yoke move a couple of times when I first got the hitch. The only thing holding it in position left and right is the friction of the nuts and rectangular plate on the bottom side of the channel cross bar and the friction of the bar and the A frame.

This is what I did to hold the yoke in place:
I placed 1/2 in bolts up through the space remaining on the outside of the slot on both sides and placed a washer and nut on top. In my installation, the head of the bolt was just the correct width to rest against the edge of the plate on the bottom, and keep the bar from sliding either left or right.

This is not factory sanctioned, but works great for me.

Regards,

Ken
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