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Old 01-22-2011, 06:24 PM   #323
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ProPride Hitch receives new patents > RV Daily Report |

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Old 01-22-2011, 07:15 PM   #324
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Congratulations Sean!
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:21 PM   #325
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Congratulations! Let's celebrate with a 50% off sale! YAY!

Seriously, congratulations!
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:46 PM   #326
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Sean - That's Great News!!!!

Congrats!!!


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Old 01-22-2011, 08:15 PM   #327
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Conngrats

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Congrats Sean. Can't wait to install mine--very soon!
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:02 AM   #328
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Congratulations!

We would like to add our congratulations to you too!
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:31 AM   #329
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Thanks everyone...

Apologies to 2Air' for mucking up the user's guide but I thought it should be mentioned here for everyone that uses this thread.

Thanks, again...

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Old 01-25-2011, 07:41 PM   #330
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I'm thinking my 1k bars are going to be fine with the new stream (Classic 30). Would you all agree with my thinking?

I also need to read back through the thread and see what product to use in addressing the powdercoat chips and rust. I have several ugly spots to clean up.

-Chris
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:53 PM   #331
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I'm thinking my 1k bars are going to be fine with the new stream (Classic 30). Would you all agree with my thinking?

I also need to read back through the thread and see what product to use in addressing the powdercoat chips and rust. I have several ugly spots to clean up.

-Chris
Chris,

I will give you my standard answer.

Manufacturer's engineer their hitches and rate them to a particular load. The best practice to use bars rated to equal or better than your max tongue weight. If you are not comfortable with that, then talk to the hitch manufacturer.

I have a 31 Classic with a max tongue weight of 1000 lbs. Sean recommended that I go with the 1400 Lb bars. So that is what I did and have not regretted it. In fact, with as much tension as I need to level my 3/4 ton PU, I don't think I would have made it with the 1000 lb bars.

since your trailer and truck are very similar to mine, I feel you would happier with the 1400, but you might want to give the 1000 lb ones a try first.

regards,

Ken
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:24 PM   #332
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hi chris

i agree with ken, and since u have the 1k bars try them, visit the scales and so on...

loading heavy stuff in the truck bed AHEAD of the drive axle may help some too.
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on the powdercoat chips/rust issue, so far that's something not covered here.

my approach would be to scrape off any looooose coating and rust,

then apply some spray paint, or dab on a rust inhibitor/then paint...

or get a tiny can of por 15 (great stuff) then cover that with black paint.

while mine does have 2-3 tiny spots (caused by the tech at the a/s service center) of chip/rust...

it is impressive how LITTLE this has spread, and how well the powdercoat has held up to date.

since u will be removing and REmounting on a new stream,

this will be a great time to do touch ups, inspection, lube and replace any worn bits.

_________

as others have replied, CONGRATS sean on the patent.

that takes a lot of time, writing, hoop jumping and so on...

which IS the easy part.

lets hope u don't have to spend much $ protecting it for many years....

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:39 AM   #333
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Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
lets hope u don't have to spend much $ protecting it for many years....

cheers
2air'

Unfortunately, I know someone who once said this to me.

"We'll send it to China and copy it. If they sue us for patent infringement we'll just make a deal at that time."

That's exactly what he did when the company sued him.


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Old 01-26-2011, 10:45 AM   #334
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and now back to some user issues

looking back at posts 319/320 sean...

what is the official position on trying to get/keep the yoke parallel to the A frame?

i realize it may not need to be perfectly parallel,

but how is performance, and specifically w/d/jack tension affected...

if the yoke is WAY OUT of parallel, as in totally tilted up/down ?

has anyone had trouble with KEEPING the yoke parallel?

by that i mean has anyone had issues with bolt tension/slippage on the yoke?

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:06 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
and now back to some user issues

looking back at posts 319/320 sean...

what is the official position on trying to get/keep the yoke parallel to the A frame?
More important is the clearance between the yoke and the bottom of the frame. The yoke still holds the main hitch head from turning side to side when it isn't parallel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
i realize it may not need to be perfectly parallel,

but how is performance, and specifically w/d/jack tension affected...

if the yoke is WAY OUT of parallel, as in totally tilted up/down ?
There have not been any performance issues reported. There are some utility trailers with 8" frames and top mounted couplers. The yoke is even more sloped on those trailers.

The weight distribution is a separate issue and is not affected by the slope of the yoke. It is unlike the weight distribution brackets of a certain red/yellow hitch that has the strut bars directly tied into the weight distribution bracket. In the case of that hitch if the strut bars aren't level they push on the frame bracket and shift it more easily.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
has anyone had trouble with KEEPING the yoke parallel?

by that i mean has anyone had issues with bolt tension/slippage on the yoke?

cheers
2air'
Not due to the yoke being out of level. There have been a few frame brackets slip left to right but once the u-bolt torque is set that hasn't been a problem either.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:26 AM   #336
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ok, good info 2 have here.

grazie and prego...

cheers
2air'
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