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Old 09-29-2010, 05:01 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Is there a stinger available for 2.5" receivers?...
yes, see post #61 and #70 for this info and a description of the specific difference.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...tml#post858555

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
...Does the PPPPP work well with the 2 to 2.5" adapter sleeve?...
yes

adapter sleeve FIT varies by receiver and adapter maker...

for example i have used the ford oem adapter in a ford oem 2.5 receiver (1600/16,000 rating)

and the fit is very good.

also tried/used an aftermarket adapter (curt) which was shorter and the fit was looser.

but the overall fit (slop) wasn't any different than my old 2 inch haha stinger in a 2 inch receiver...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
..Or is it a better choice to DOWNgrade a tow vehicle so equipped to a smaller receiver?
this is really a topic for some of the other tongue weight/receiver/rating/size threads but...

depends on your goals and the load/ratings for each size receiver or what else is connected.

i wouldn't DISCARD a new 1500/15,000 rated receiver with a 2.5 inch opening, just to avoid using an adapter.

but if OTHER things are towed or inserted into the receiver, an adapter (or downsizing) is still necessary.
_________

i happen to have both the 2 inch and the 2.5 inch PP adjustable stinger parts and will post comparisons soon.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:02 PM   #296
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Slop fixer upper

This is also a great thing to use for wanting to take the extra step.It works really well and I never leave home without it.
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:21 PM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post

my approach over the last 5 years...

has been to inspected and clean the ball/coupler annually; this was just done on the pp.

and then finger apply a coating to the inside of the a/s coupler and a thin coat on the ball.
I agree ... if the PP is removed annually for inspection anyway and if greasing the ball/coupler once a year is often enough, then a zerk serves no purpose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post

as an annual process i just disassembled and REmounted the pp...

inspected all the bits, cleaned, lubed, checked thread/nuts, wear parts and so on...
Did you disasemble the 3/4" bolts that connect the yoke to the main hitch unit. It took a lot of effort when I installed the PP to torque these bolts to 250# because the hex nut kept slipping past the nut block so I'm hoping I never have to remove them.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:47 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiker View Post
...Did you disasemble the 3/4" bolts that connect the yoke to the main hitch unit. It took a lot of effort when I installed the PP to torque these bolts to 250# because the hex nut kept slipping past the nut block so I'm hoping I never have to remove them.
yeah those did take some effort to snug2spec and showed NO signs of backing out.

(mark all the nuts/bolts/threads with touch up paint)

no it's not necessary to loosen them to expose/grease the ball or cup.

while connected and with the A frame jack deployed, open the coupler...

then raise the A frame with the jack till the ball is exposed.

it may necessary to loosen the yoke tail at the frame bracket or adjustable yoke side bolts (depending on original setup) ...

((see the pics back around post #17)

it's easy to do this...
_________

i took the w/d bars off (including the jacks/brackets) and looked at the bushings/retention discs and disassembled the stinger.

none of those steps are necessary, but i'm a curious guy...

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:44 AM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Is there a stinger available for 2.5" receivers?
Yes. It is becoming more common so we are making them now. I'm not stocking them but do make them when ordered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Does the PPPPP work well with the 2 to 2.5" adapter sleeve?
Yes, works fine.
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:24 AM   #300
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Devoman,

Hitch Vise is great for getting rid of the rattle when hauling around an empty Uhaul trailer.

But it seems to be rated for class 3 and 5000 lbs. I am not sure I would use it on a WD hitch with a class 4 or 5 receiver. Do you have a rattle problem with a 1000 lb tongue weight?

Barry
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:39 PM   #301
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Finished 1st trip with the Propride

Well we just finished the official maiden voyage with our trailer. We towed from Houston TX to Minneapolis and back with no issues. This is only our second tow (1st was bringing her home from La), but the differences were unbelievable.

The trailer and truck acted as a single unit and easily handled at freeway speeds of 70+. A very Zen experience with no sway at all! Rig was so stable that my wife drove for at least 50% of the trip (that alone was worth every penny).

All in all it took about 7 hrs or so to install. This thread was invaluable in helping me to fit the slightly unique aspects of the Airstream.

A few things I did similar to others:
1) cut the tabs one side of each jack to accommodate the propane shroud
2) used washers & nut to "elevate" the propane bottle tray above the U-Bolts
that attach to the yoke bar.
3) Utilized shorter (1.5") SS bolt on the back of the jack bracket. Ones
included were way too long due to battery box location.

Still need to get to the scales to get totally "dialed in".

Here are some pics of the finished product. Thanks for all of the great info here.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:45 PM   #302
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nice report hansom'

good looking rig (gotta love red trucks)

thanks for taking the time 2 post here and including pix!

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:54 PM   #303
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In an attempt to adjust the tilt of my 3P hitch head, I have recently inserted two additional washers to the tilt bolt (from 1 to 3). A question that I now have is whether this change will require the re-adjustment of the level of tension on the spring bars that I had previously dialed in. Do I need to hit the CAT scales again to make sure that the proper weight distribution is still maintained? My initial observation is that when I raised the spring bar links to the original height that I had previously marked, the front end of the truck now seems to be compressed more. Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:56 PM   #304
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Your observation would be correct. If you drop the rear of the draw bar, which adding washers would do, with the same amount of height on the jacks, the hitch weight would be moved farther foward on the tow vehicle.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:23 PM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigershark View Post
In an attempt to adjust the tilt of my 3P hitch head, I have recently inserted two additional washers to the tilt bolt (from 1 to 3)...
exactly why was there any need to adust the 'tilt' of the hitch head?

manipulating the stinger with the bolt/washers is mainly used to deal with RECEIVER issues.

this is a case where PIX of the installed hitch and tv connection are needed.

no pix preclude any meaningful exchange.
________

on a side note IF/when the rig is dialed in,

quickly take measurements (height) at the 4 wheel wells/bumper and receiver.

those height/distances can be used as basic reference/until scale readings are repeated.


cheers
2air'
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:56 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
exactly why was there any need to adust the 'tilt' of the hitch head?

manipulating the stinger with the bolt/washers is mainly used to deal with RECEIVER issues.

this is a case where PIX of the installed hitch and tv connection are needed.

no pix preclude any meaningful exchange.
________

on a side note IF/when the rig is dialed in,

quickly take measurements (height) at the 4 wheel wells/bumper and receiver.
those height/distances can be used as basic reference/until scale readings are repeated.


cheers
2air'
The main reason for the adjustment was that the lower end of the adjustable shank of my hitch bar was previously pointing backwards (towards the truck) when tensioned up. I didn't pay too much attention to it at that time. However, when my dealer saw that, he suggested that I insert some additional washers. The shank is now pointing perpendicular to the ground, may be a little forward towards the TT.

As to your second comment, that's what I did as a quick check. Since I noted that the front of the truck appeared to have compressed more than before, I wanted to ask the question here just to confirm that I would need to redial in the WD settings. I plan to take the rig to the scales at the beginning of next
season to get the actual weights.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:30 AM   #307
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Pro Pride Install Project!

This was more than install, it's a project! It took about 4 hours with help from my buddy Steve. Neither of us had any experience with this product. It seems to go pretty well as long as you just take one step at a time. We had to modify the propane tank area to get the yoke support bar installed. Also, I have to get chain and electrical extensions. Other than that, no glitches. Now, it's just a matter of getting it dialed in.

Here are a few pics:
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:32 AM   #308
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One more pic of it hooked up.
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