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Old 10-06-2009, 04:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
I Haven't towed a whole lot yet with the ProPride (maybe 500 miles, however I have hitched and unhitched a lot....

I have found it very quick and easy to hitch and unhitch...
hi ken and thanks for jumping in.

none of us have towed a WHOLE LOT yet with the pp, so we are all learning.

imo an IMPORTANT step in mastering the dock/undock is doing exactly what you have done...

as in hitching and UN hitching a bunch.

doing so provides LOTS of practice with the process, connecting chains/7 pin, brake cable, jack tightening, leveling and so on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...I purchased a pair of the magnetic based yellow sticks. I place one on the end of the stinger, and the other on the lip of the box on the trailer...

I am sure I could do it by myself, with a bit of hopping in and out of the truck...
the hitchnrods are VERY HELPFUL and i've used them for years.

((the rods can be seen in the lower LEFT pic/post #12))

often now the rods aren't needed but they are ALWAYS available as help.

i connect solo EVERY TIME; typically it takes 2-3 minutes...

and longer IF i'm hurried or helped by others...

cheers
2air'

ok the holding tank has been drained, the batteries charged, the running gear exercised...

lets finish the quik install...
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

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Old 10-06-2009, 05:03 PM   #16
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quik install step 4...

attach weight distribution (w/d) (spring) bars...

spring bars are available in varied rating from 700? to 1400 lbs.

they operate INDEPENDENTLY from the sway control,

and can be tensioned from near zero to the max rating.

the spring bars INSERT into the underside of the main hitch head'

and are secured by a NEW patent pending gizmo (not directly part of the grease zerk)

i'll post details about this new feature later.

these pics show the spring bars after INSERTION into the main jack head

and after attachment to the lower end of the w/d jacks USING the spring bar links...

the w/d bars are installed WHILE THE TV IS STILL CONNECTED and supporting the main hitch head...

1 for the street side and one for the curb side.

this step requires GREASE to coat the spring bar end, bushings and squirt in the zerks...

easy peasy...

cheers
2air'

click any pic twice for a LARGE view...
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:27 PM   #17
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quik install step 5...

attach the YOKE...

with this design the YOKE replaces the 'strut bars' 'shear bolts' and several sets of pins.

-the YOKE is installed from UNDER the A frame and behind the tongue jack.

-2 big arse bolts connect the yoke to the sides of the main hitch unit via holes and welded nut blocks...

-these nuts/bolts are torqued to 250 ft-lbs and pass though steel n bronze bushings...

-after YOKE attachment the STINGER is disconnected from the HITCH HEAD...

-ONLY THEN is tv pulled forward, to leave the assembly hanging on the A frame...

-at this time the yoke TAIL is attached to the frame bracket (see quik install step 2, post #10) using the remaining frame bracket hardware.

-the the yoke side bolts are loosened and adjusted, so that the YOKE is LEVEL with the A frame ~1-2 inches below it...
________________

pics show the...

-yoke with the A frame/cup graphic superimposed for orientation...

-yoke attached UNDER the A frame with highlights and the critical bolts (250 ft-lbs torque)

-side view showing the LEVELING of the yoke 1-2 inches below the A frame...

-side view showing ALL of these parts relative to the A frame...

cheers
2air'

click any pic twice for a LARGER view...
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__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:49 PM   #18
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quik install step 6...

the ADJUSTABLE stinger...

the pp comes with a DROP adjustable and TILT adjustable stinger...

it's ANOTHER unique component of the pp 3p package...

with this ONE stinger it is possible to match the trailer to a spectrum of receiver box angles and tow vehicle heights.

basically the user measures the cup height (level trailer) and the receiver box height (level tv)...

then selects 3 holes on the 2 stinger parts to match the height of both...

((the WAY to calculate this is in the INSTALLATION instructions shipped with the hitch))

the stinger can also be tilted UP or down a few degrees, again covered in the factory instructions...

we'll cover the details of these manipulations LATER...

THIS ADJUSTMENT (stinger set up) is the VERY FIRST STEP in the official INSTALLATION instructions...

but i've placed it later for easy following of the quik install steps...
______________________

-here is a pic of my pp STINGER adjusted for the lifted 4x4 f-250 (~5.5 inches drop)

-and a 2nd shot with a REMINDER that the stinger nuts/bolts are torqued to AT LEAST 150 ft-lbs...

cheers
2air'

click either twice for a LARGER view...
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

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Old 10-06-2009, 05:50 PM   #19
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Hitching Time

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
...
i connect solo EVERY TIME; typically it takes 2-3 minutes...

and longer IF i'm hurried or helped by others...

cheers
2air'

...
You're speaking the truth THERE my friend. I particularly DREAD having a guy with a beer in his hand (and God only knows how many in his gut) start waving this way and then that way and then yelling "NO your Other Left".

Children and teenagers are actually more helpful IMHO, and I've used the Hensley Hitch Helper to move the ball an inch or two to the right or left - VERY Easy! But I agree yellow sticks are great too.

Paula
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:14 PM   #20
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I like it. Looks leaner, less bulky.

Curious how the powder coat performs over time.

Is the adjustable stinger compatible with the Hensley?

From numbers published here, it appears 20-30lbs lighter than the Hensley (including stinger)?
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:15 PM   #21
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quik install step 7...

connect and GO...

ok, last step in this UNofficial quik install...

-PUT ALL THE CRAP back on the trailer A frame/tongue (see quik install step ZERO, post #7)

then...

-connect the tv 2 the trailer, secure the over center latches, hook up chains, brake/break cable, 7 pin and don't 4get the receiver/hitch bar/pin...

((do all the normal things like chock/unchock the wheels, tension the jacks, raise the trailer tongue and so on...))

-oh yeah, don't forget the water hose/dump hose, 30 amp cord, leveling jacks, awning, fans, steps, doors, load the dogs/kids/mates and....

once it's ALL connected and made ready for MOVEMENT...

1. pull onto a LEVEL straight QUIET location...

2. make any adjustments as needed to LEVEL the trailer, LEVEL the yoke and so one...

3. check/snug ALL the nuts, U bolts and deal with any dangling things...

THEN plan a trip to the CATSCALES to REweigh and sort out the spring bar tension needs and final stinger adjustments...

because one can NOT know the exact w/d adjustments without direct measurement of AXLE loads.
__________________

here are 3 shots of this rig...

-first pic is with MOST of the crap back on the tongue..

-then connected (level) and ready for a trip to the scales...

(i still need to adjust/shorten the safety chains 1-2 links)

cheers
2air'

click on either pic twice for a LARGER view...
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:25 PM   #22
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the quik install ends and the towing begins...

al'righty...

the pp is ON and dragging the stream...

it's ALL uphill from here with the long long trayla...

time2 get on the winding road and USE this contraption.

gotta LOVE a smooth stable relaxed towing experience...

last pic is a view from the REAR end ...

cheers
2air'

IF you are a PP users or wanna b...

post a note, subscribe to THIS thread and tell your friends we R here...

so that we can built the "unofficial pp users guide..."
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

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Old 10-06-2009, 06:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
I like it. Looks leaner, less bulky.

Is the adjustable stinger compatible with the Hensley?

it appears 20-30lbs lighter...
hi fc'

it IS leaner, and a tad less bulky, the sidebyside photos will show this well (later)

you asked about the stinger last year, i've included that thread link in post #3..

crispyboy acquired some pieces and made a frankenstinger...

the DETAILS are covered in posts #697-710 in the haha users guide.

now that i've got BOTH stinger styles IN HAND, i wouldn't suggest trying the swap...

there are several diffences that need to be addressed (lenght/shape/ocl wings) and welding/ratings may be an issue.

i'll post stinger comparisons in a few weeks.

the fixed drop haha stingers VARY in weight (straight bar vs 8 inch drop) which affect the net difference between brands.

imo the STRENGTH of the 2 designs and durablity of the welds, bushings jacks and so on are more important than a 1-4% weight difference.

the black pp powder coat is thinner, BUT already proven to be more durable/chip proof...

more on this later.

cheers
2air'
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

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Old 10-06-2009, 06:55 PM   #24
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Pp

I just got mine in Today.It has only been a couple hours into it but the sun just went down.The instructions and pic are perfect 2AIR.So far everything is pretty much straight forward and it is fairly easy to do.The only thing that stops you for the moment is the Propane line and adjusting the propane base plate.I have a 25'SS the propane base plate needs to be either cut out to allow the U bolts to sit thru it or lift the plate up about 1/2 an inch with some washers and longer screws to adapt to it.Other than that all I have to do so far is attach the main unit to the camper and bolt it down and that is it.
One more thing is that it will be about a half a foot longer from vehicle to trailer.I believe I will not have to use the chain extensions that came with it.I had to shorten them up for the previous hitch at about just half a foot or so.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:27 PM   #25
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hi devoman

coming from a traditional hitch, a few more chain links might be needed.'

check the length with the tv/trailer STRAIGHT, because that positions the chains in the LONGEST requirement.

turning SLACKS the chains...

and you will have greater turning angles available with the pp.

a/s may have lengthened the chains/7 pin cord on some models after 06.

coming from the haha the chains on my unit were ALREADY lengthened, so i still need to trim up a bit.

the chains only need to clear the hitch bottom by 1-2 inches, after properly routing between/under the spring bars, crossed.
____________________

my lp gas lines had already be rerouted for the last hitch/wd brackets.

IF you make mods of the gas routing or lg tank base plates, take some PHOTOS and POST'em...

the details will help others...

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
I just got mine in Today.......................................... .I believe I will not have to use the chain extensions that came with it.I had to shorten them up for the previous hitch at about just half a foot or so.
Hi,
I am curious what the chain extensions are.
My chains ended up being too short. I extended them by getting the largest quick links that would fit inside the chain. They are much larger diameter steel than the chain but I don't believe they are as hard. I am a little concerned if they are strong enough. I used one on each side.
I took most of 3 days to install mine, but I was very careful to be sure I understood each step. On my classic 31, everything just barely fit. The rod extensions on the WD jacks actually go under the back of the propane bottle cover, but that actually made the cover mounting more solid. I also had to do some careful rebending of the Propane line. To make myself feel better, I covered the propane line with rubber hose where it is closest to the yoke bracket,
Regards,
Ken
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:53 PM   #27
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hi ken

good info on the rerouting and gas line covers, got any photos?

canadian spec'd streams are actually built with PEX line (or some plastic stuff) covering all the exposed lp gas copper pipe.

different codes up north and better coverage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...My chains ended up being too short. I extended them by getting the largest quick links that would fit inside the chain. They are much larger diameter steel than the chain but I don't believe they are as hard. I am a little concerned if they are strong enough. I used one on each side....
this chain issue is IMPORTANT and has been covered IN DETAIL...

see this thread and MANY of the links inside, there is some GOOD STUFF on the chain thang...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ice-43405.html
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short answer, the oem frame/chains come pre assembled-WELDED to the frame b4 shipment 2 the a/s factory.

there is a RATING/mfg tag attached to the chains (it's like the warning tag on pillows, not 2b removed except by the owner)

PROPERLY rated quick links AND chain sections are available, see some of the links above.

NO dealer has them, even the factory service center doesn't have them.

i checked in MANY trailer supply stores and sales shops, they ALL had generic (under rated) extension kits.

PEERLESS is one of the chain vendors with properly rated chains for sale and online.
___________________

took me nearly 2 years to get them, most folks (including the hitch vendors) thought i was OVERLY concerned...

but i did get the right stuff eventually.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #28
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Checking List

I went into the garage to double check anything that could be missing and it seems that I will have to purchase 2 smaller bolts.The ones I have are for the W/D adjusters.It is the bolt that keeps the adjustable arm in place onto the frame.My battery box is in the way of it.These are 3 1/2 inch bolts and I will need 2 inch ones instead.
I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
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