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Old 10-06-2009, 06:15 PM   #21
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quik install step 7...

connect and GO...

ok, last step in this UNofficial quik install...

-PUT ALL THE CRAP back on the trailer A frame/tongue (see quik install step ZERO, post #7)

then...

-connect the tv 2 the trailer, secure the over center latches, hook up chains, brake/break cable, 7 pin and don't 4get the receiver/hitch bar/pin...

((do all the normal things like chock/unchock the wheels, tension the jacks, raise the trailer tongue and so on...))

-oh yeah, don't forget the water hose/dump hose, 30 amp cord, leveling jacks, awning, fans, steps, doors, load the dogs/kids/mates and....

once it's ALL connected and made ready for MOVEMENT...

1. pull onto a LEVEL straight QUIET location...

2. make any adjustments as needed to LEVEL the trailer, LEVEL the yoke and so one...

3. check/snug ALL the nuts, U bolts and deal with any dangling things...

THEN plan a trip to the CATSCALES to REweigh and sort out the spring bar tension needs and final stinger adjustments...

because one can NOT know the exact w/d adjustments without direct measurement of AXLE loads.
__________________

here are 3 shots of this rig...

-first pic is with MOST of the crap back on the tongue..

-then connected (level) and ready for a trip to the scales...

(i still need to adjust/shorten the safety chains 1-2 links)

cheers
2air'

click on either pic twice for a LARGER view...
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:25 PM   #22
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the quik install ends and the towing begins...

al'righty...

the pp is ON and dragging the stream...

it's ALL uphill from here with the long long trayla...

time2 get on the winding road and USE this contraption.

gotta LOVE a smooth stable relaxed towing experience...

last pic is a view from the REAR end ...

cheers
2air'

IF you are a PP users or wanna b...

post a note, subscribe to THIS thread and tell your friends we R here...

so that we can built the "unofficial pp users guide..."
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
I like it. Looks leaner, less bulky.

Is the adjustable stinger compatible with the Hensley?

it appears 20-30lbs lighter...
hi fc'

it IS leaner, and a tad less bulky, the sidebyside photos will show this well (later)

you asked about the stinger last year, i've included that thread link in post #3..

crispyboy acquired some pieces and made a frankenstinger...

the DETAILS are covered in posts #697-710 in the haha users guide.

now that i've got BOTH stinger styles IN HAND, i wouldn't suggest trying the swap...

there are several diffences that need to be addressed (lenght/shape/ocl wings) and welding/ratings may be an issue.

i'll post stinger comparisons in a few weeks.

the fixed drop haha stingers VARY in weight (straight bar vs 8 inch drop) which affect the net difference between brands.

imo the STRENGTH of the 2 designs and durablity of the welds, bushings jacks and so on are more important than a 1-4% weight difference.

the black pp powder coat is thinner, BUT already proven to be more durable/chip proof...

more on this later.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:55 PM   #24
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Pp

I just got mine in Today.It has only been a couple hours into it but the sun just went down.The instructions and pic are perfect 2AIR.So far everything is pretty much straight forward and it is fairly easy to do.The only thing that stops you for the moment is the Propane line and adjusting the propane base plate.I have a 25'SS the propane base plate needs to be either cut out to allow the U bolts to sit thru it or lift the plate up about 1/2 an inch with some washers and longer screws to adapt to it.Other than that all I have to do so far is attach the main unit to the camper and bolt it down and that is it.
One more thing is that it will be about a half a foot longer from vehicle to trailer.I believe I will not have to use the chain extensions that came with it.I had to shorten them up for the previous hitch at about just half a foot or so.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:27 PM   #25
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hi devoman

coming from a traditional hitch, a few more chain links might be needed.'

check the length with the tv/trailer STRAIGHT, because that positions the chains in the LONGEST requirement.

turning SLACKS the chains...

and you will have greater turning angles available with the pp.

a/s may have lengthened the chains/7 pin cord on some models after 06.

coming from the haha the chains on my unit were ALREADY lengthened, so i still need to trim up a bit.

the chains only need to clear the hitch bottom by 1-2 inches, after properly routing between/under the spring bars, crossed.
____________________

my lp gas lines had already be rerouted for the last hitch/wd brackets.

IF you make mods of the gas routing or lg tank base plates, take some PHOTOS and POST'em...

the details will help others...

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
I just got mine in Today.......................................... .I believe I will not have to use the chain extensions that came with it.I had to shorten them up for the previous hitch at about just half a foot or so.
Hi,
I am curious what the chain extensions are.
My chains ended up being too short. I extended them by getting the largest quick links that would fit inside the chain. They are much larger diameter steel than the chain but I don't believe they are as hard. I am a little concerned if they are strong enough. I used one on each side.
I took most of 3 days to install mine, but I was very careful to be sure I understood each step. On my classic 31, everything just barely fit. The rod extensions on the WD jacks actually go under the back of the propane bottle cover, but that actually made the cover mounting more solid. I also had to do some careful rebending of the Propane line. To make myself feel better, I covered the propane line with rubber hose where it is closest to the yoke bracket,
Regards,
Ken
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:53 PM   #27
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hi ken

good info on the rerouting and gas line covers, got any photos?

canadian spec'd streams are actually built with PEX line (or some plastic stuff) covering all the exposed lp gas copper pipe.

different codes up north and better coverage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...My chains ended up being too short. I extended them by getting the largest quick links that would fit inside the chain. They are much larger diameter steel than the chain but I don't believe they are as hard. I am a little concerned if they are strong enough. I used one on each side....
this chain issue is IMPORTANT and has been covered IN DETAIL...

see this thread and MANY of the links inside, there is some GOOD STUFF on the chain thang...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ice-43405.html
__________________
short answer, the oem frame/chains come pre assembled-WELDED to the frame b4 shipment 2 the a/s factory.

there is a RATING/mfg tag attached to the chains (it's like the warning tag on pillows, not 2b removed except by the owner)

PROPERLY rated quick links AND chain sections are available, see some of the links above.

NO dealer has them, even the factory service center doesn't have them.

i checked in MANY trailer supply stores and sales shops, they ALL had generic (under rated) extension kits.

PEERLESS is one of the chain vendors with properly rated chains for sale and online.
___________________

took me nearly 2 years to get them, most folks (including the hitch vendors) thought i was OVERLY concerned...

but i did get the right stuff eventually.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #28
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Checking List

I went into the garage to double check anything that could be missing and it seems that I will have to purchase 2 smaller bolts.The ones I have are for the W/D adjusters.It is the bolt that keeps the adjustable arm in place onto the frame.My battery box is in the way of it.These are 3 1/2 inch bolts and I will need 2 inch ones instead.
I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
I went into the garage to double check anything that could be missing and it seems that I will have to purchase 2 smaller bolts.The ones I have are for the W/D adjusters.It is the bolt that keeps the adjustable arm in place onto the frame.My battery box is in the way of it.These are 3 1/2 inch bolts and I will need 2 inch ones instead.
I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
I ran into a problem requiring different length bolts somewhere also, but I don't remember where. Remember, it is a matter of safety, so buy the best tools you can find. (oh, and make sure they are shiny) That's one of my motto's.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
...I will also be getting a new torque wrench that exceeds the 250 lb mark.I only have one that goes to 150 lb's.
And last on the list is a grease gun.
hi devo'

the truck lugs require 170 ft-lbs so i am already carrying a 250 wrench and a breaker bar...

the problem is, it's the typical length (about 24 inches) for a torque wrench.

so i tried using it for the 250 of torque on the yoke nuts/bolts...

and just about ruptured a lung. no i actually DID rupture a lung...

one can use a standard 'breaker bar' and add a pipe extension for leverage, but NOT know how tight is tight.

home d'pot sells a HUSKY branded torque wrench that is spec'd 30-250 ft-lbs...

what is NICE about this torque wrench is that it is more than 3 feet long, so gettin' to 250 ft-lbs is MUCH easier...

i only bruised a kidney using it.
_______________

for ANY of the critical or FIRMLY tightened nuts/bolts i suggest using sockets or closed in wrenches...

avoid adjustable/crescent style or open-end wrenches for this...

you'll just bust knuckles, round off the nuts and still NOT get the job done.
______________

and don't be tempted to buy the SMALL grease gun with the smaller cartridges...

takes too many pumps and the cartridges don't last very long.

look for the standard size grease gun and larger (10-12 inch) cartridges...

most auto parts stores sell these...

i am using synthetic RED grease, which isn't necessary and is 1-2$ more per tube.

but the red stuff SHOWS UP clearly on the black hitch and darkens as it age, so when re-greasing it's obvious when to stop...

cheers
2air'
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:42 PM   #31
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Duh

It took me a good :20 minutes to finally see the photo in post 12 of the hitch WITH OUT THE STINGER!

My first thoughts were it looks like a really well thought out system except-

"how does the average streamer back up at the proper place to get the hitch pin hole lined up? I hear that a HAHA can be a learning curve getting the stinger to align but this PP is gonna be a bear if ya gotta back onto the hitch and insert the pin!"

Then I saw the photo with the stinger removed and the OCD arms - whew.

Great idea for a new thread.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:03 PM   #32
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yeah THIS is a real man's hitch!


Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
...Then I saw the photo with the stinger removed and the OCD arms - whew. ...
hi hiho'

since the topic is THE pp, only seemed appropriate to INCLUDE the stinger, sticking OUT from the hitch...

didn't i write NOSE job?
_____________

now about hooking up, using the tv receiver box and FRONT end of the stinger (which are much tighter to match)...

VERY early on i used this approach with the haha and it really WAS a challenge. i did get hooked/unhooked but MAN it was hard...

then i got less dumb, and switched to the EASY and normal approach.

but the 'tuffer/tighter' connection approach did protect my trailer from being towed away once,

by a shady a/s dealer-service shop (they were gonna impound it till the CRAZY warranty bill was paid by jackson center or me )...

i returned to the shop only to find (and watch) them TRYING to hook up for a tow...

lots of head scratching and "i dunno bout this here thang..."

so i think of the UNCOMMON hitch apparatus as a security device protecting the A frame and cup and trailer from disappearing.

(many posts on the stinger/hookup/alignment will appear in THIS thread)

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:22 AM   #33
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Problems

Ok.I have put everything on and I wanted to take it out for a tow and get to a level area to do some tweeking on it to make it all perfect.Well.Being that where I live and how the road is to my driveway.It is 2 different angles.Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up.I tried everything I could to get my reciever to hook up into the PP but it just wont do it.
I have started taking it back apart to see if I can wiggle some things around to get it right.
Any Ideas?
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:33 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
Ok.I have put everything on and I wanted to take it out for a tow and get to a level area to do some tweeking on it to make it all perfect.Well.Being that where I live and how the road is to my driveway.It is 2 different angles.Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up.I tried everything I could to get my reciever to hook up into the PP but it just wont do it.
I have started taking it back apart to see if I can wiggle some things around to get it right.
Any Ideas?
I would suggest you call Sean. He is very accessible and helpful.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:13 PM   #35
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Adjustment

I just adjusted the W/D arms to readjust the head a bit.This is round 2 so if I end up doing it a 3rd time I will call him.
It has been taking me a while to get this set up because it is so hot here right now.I have to go in every 10 to 15 min to cool down a bit and drink lots of water.
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:48 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
...It is 2 different angles.
Meaning the driveway goes up very slightly and the road goes downward towards the driveway.
You can just see the upward and downward slope and it is really not that bad but bad enough to not let me hitch up...
steve

start by taking a look at THIS pic...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1161056559

notice how the stinger is pointing down AND the hitch box opening is also pointing down, that won't work!

now see how they are parallel after adjusting the jacks...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...7&d=1161056828

DO NOT LOOSEN critical STUFF on the pp to adjust for hookups.

IF the install is correct, don't move the head or yoke around.

i haven't had time to put the pics here yet for the pp, but the same process is the same for both hitches.
____________________

IF the back of the tv/stinger is sloping DOWN....\\\

the stinger box on the pp must be sloping UP to match the angle....\\\

like this...(tow vehicle)->\\\ --- \\\<-(trailer)

this UP slope is accomplished by LOOSENing the screw jacks on each side...

as they are loosend the box on the pp will start pointing UP....

then raise/lower the A frame jack to match the tv height.
____________________

IF the back of the tv/stinger is sloping UP...-///

the stinger box on the pp must be sloping DOWN to match it...///-

like this...(tow vehicle)->/// --- ///<-(trailer)

this DOWN slope is accomplished by TIGHTENing the screw jacks on each side...

as they are TIGHTENED the stinger BOX on the pp will start pointing DOWN....

then raise/lower the A frame jack to match the tv height.
_____________________

so the 2 items (stinger on back of tv & box on front of pp) need to be PARALLEL to each other...

like this =-= or this \\-\\ or this //-//

does THAT make sense...

THEN the A frame jack is used to raise/lower the hitch head box opening to the stinger height...

again look at the pics of the one posted in the link above.
_____________________

the ONLY change in the install (if done correctly) would be to attach the w/d bars using DIFFERENT HOLES on the jack extensions...

see the 3rd pic in post #16 here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...2&d=1254866425

the instructions tell us to use the 'center' hole, my pic shows the 6 holes available...

to get MORE UP slope on the box, it might be necessary to use hole 1 or 2 at the top.
__________________

also the 2 segments of the stinger should be assembled so that are PARALLEL with each other for now...

see the stinger pics..

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:53 PM   #37
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Done

I got it all working.I just had to readjust the swing arms.They were set on the wrong setting and the hitch head was positioned wrong because of it.Everything is set to go.I did tighten the W/D arms a bit and got it up about 2 inches.That is all I could do so far because the airsuspension was starting to have a conflict with it.I set the vehicle into a permanent setting(Comfort setting) and readjusted and now it works perfectly.
Just from driving around a few blocks I can seriously tell a huge difference in traveling with this hitch.I do believe this is well worth every penny spent.Unhooking was very easy to do also.
Well....Time for some pictures.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:03 PM   #38
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Pictures

I got the grease gun and torque wrench from home depot.
The grease gun is great because you can use it with one hand and it has a spring loaded handle to retract back.I got it for about $25.00

Torqing something to 250 lbs is a lot of force.I am just glad I was able to do this by myself.
The Torque wrench cost about $70.00
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:11 PM   #39
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Bolt

I had a slight problem when putting my adjustable arm on.Everything went on smooth until I had to put the bolt on that went into the side of it to keep it from moving left to right.The bolt was 3 1/2 inches long.What was stopping me was the battery box.
So I went to lowes and purchased a couple Grade 8 USS 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 inch bolts instead.and it fit with out a problem at all.Actually the bolt is still really long for its size.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:25 PM   #40
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Propane Tanks

When doing the propane tanks I had to readjust the height on it.The U-bolts were setting underneath it and it would not let the propane tank base plate sit on the frame anymore.I fixed this by getting longer screws from Lowes and I purchased 2 nuts slightly larger than the screws and used them as washers to lift the plate above the u-bolts.It worked out perfect.
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