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Old 05-12-2010, 10:11 AM   #225
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Sean, can I possibly get a replacement?

Send me a mailing address and I'll drop a few in the mail to you.


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Old 05-12-2010, 10:23 AM   #226
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That style of keeper has a habit of pulling out on agricultural equipment, where it is used extensively. Usually it is because field trash, brush, or other debris pulls against it.

If you were off-road somewhere a branch or something might have caught it, but if you put it in right side up (that is, putting the pin in from the top and then snapping the ring down) I would still find its disappearance puzzling.
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:03 AM   #227
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Here is another locking style of pin you might try though it is longer. It is also used on agricultural equipment.
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:51 PM   #228
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I haven't found those to be much better. The only thing that is 100% reliable in heavy grass or brush is a bolt with a locknut (or two nuts locked together, or a nut with locktite, you get the idea). Not convenient but they won't come off.

Some people wire down the lynch pins with a piece of electric fence wire or 14 gauge solid copper electric wire or whatever else is at hand. That helps too though it's not a 100% thing like the bolt and locknut.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:22 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
Here is another locking style of pin you might try though it is longer. It is also used on agricultural equipment.
This is what I got on there for the time being. However the main pin isn't as thick as the ones that come with the hitch.

Sean, you have a pm inbound.
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Old 06-19-2010, 09:59 PM   #230
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i sure like my new hitch

i got my pp on thursday.spent part of friday cleaning up the tongue.i got started putting it on and worked until it was too dark.i didn't get any pictures but everything went real well.i replaced the safety chains so they were long enough,the electrical cable was long enough so i didn't have to do anything.we took it for a test drag and i couldn't believe how much better the ride was.
my weight on the pick up empty is 4850 steer,3030 drive.with the trailer and the new pp we were 4660 steer,4580 drive and 6500 trailer.we only went about 20 miles to the scale and back but man what a difference.thank you for all of the knowledge here. spencer
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:24 AM   #231
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Had a slight issue on my recent 1400mi pull to Colorado. I really, really need to pull and repack the wheel bearings and adjust the brakes (over 10k on the trailer since new and never any service in this department) and it bit me in the @$$. I had some knucklehead pull right out in front of me and had to do a panic stop. Didn't hit him and the brakes worked, but I think I got the "ProPride bump". More like a bang. After the stop I started moving again and noticed the trailer was tracking "funny". I pull off at a gas station get out and the yoke is all cock-eyed. The bar that straddles the A-frame has slid about two inches to the starboard side. So I unhitch, loosen the ubolts and use a rubber mallet to re-center the yoke. Tighten everything back up, re-hitch, click the brake controller up a few notches and get back underway. Smooth sailing the rest of the way.

Check your brakes.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:40 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
Had a slight issue on my recent 1400mi pull to Colorado. I really, really need to pull and repack the wheel bearings and adjust the brakes (over 10k on the trailer since new and never any service in this department) and it bit me in the @$$. I had some knucklehead pull right out in front of me and had to do a panic stop. Didn't hit him and the brakes worked, but I think I got the "ProPride bump". More like a bang. After the stop I started moving again and noticed the trailer was tracking "funny". I pull off at a gas station get out and the yoke is all cock-eyed. The bar that straddles the A-frame has slid about two inches to the starboard side. So I unhitch, loosen the ubolts and use a rubber mallet to re-center the yoke. Tighten everything back up, re-hitch, click the brake controller up a few notches and get back underway. Smooth sailing the rest of the way.

Check your brakes.
I'm not sure the solution is checking your brakes, but rather what you did afterward: Increase the boost on your controller. I'll bet your brakes are still fine. Not that checking the brakes is not a good idea, I just don't think that the brake adjustment was a factor.

I had the yoke move a couple of times when I first got the hitch. The only thing holding it in position left and right is the friction of the nuts and rectangular plate on the bottom side of the channel cross bar and the friction of the bar and the A frame.

This is what I did to hold the yoke in place:
I placed 1/2 in bolts up through the space remaining on the outside of the slot on both sides and placed a washer and nut on top. In my installation, the head of the bolt was just the correct width to rest against the edge of the plate on the bottom, and keep the bar from sliding either left or right.

This is not factory sanctioned, but works great for me.

Regards,

Ken
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:34 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giantTwinkie View Post
i got my pp on thursday....
hi giant' and welcome to the dark side of towing...

good report, hope the install went well and we look forward to you ADDING to the collective info here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...Check your brakes.
good INCIDENT REPORT '01, thanks for taking the time to post it.

i interpret the 'check your brakes' suggestion to include ALL aspects of stopping gear...

parts, controller, setup AND performance of the truck/trayla in combo.

to be sure the trailer brakes engage quickly and with adequate force, it's necessary to SIMULATE hard stops somewhere.
__________

i 2 have had to stop HARD a few times when clueless nuts ahead do somethin' stupid.

fortunately the 6 discs on the stream HELP a lot with stopping and right now!

my routine AFTER a hard stop is to pull OFF at the next safe location...

-check inside the trailer for stuff moved or spilled or broken (change undies as needed)

-check the receiver/hitch pin/chains/7pin/brakeaway/overcenterlatches/jacks/Aframe brackets/YOKE/Ubolts and so on...

-also check the ADJUSTABLE stinger bolts.

IF not certain things are stable, i drop the TONGUE jack and check every thing again without tension on the system.
___________

i'll have MORE on this issue (frame bracket/yoke movement) later but to quickly review...

on the OLDER ORANGE design the hitch head is held fast by lateral/adjustable struts

that are anchored to the A frame with bolts drilled INTO the A frame running THROUGH the jack brackets.

those bolts are GRADE 5 and referred to as SHEAR bolts,

they are intended to SHEAR/fail in order to avoid damage to the main hitch head/A frame with some towing/stopping/turning stress.

some folks MISTAKENLY replace the shear bolts with grade 8 bolts to FIRM up this connection.

that is a MISTAKE.

essentially that transfers forces to OTHER BITS which may fail and cost more to fix.
___________

the PP doesn't have these struts or drill holes or shear bolts.

instead the yoke is held fast by the 'frame braket' and U bolts.

so again with some SPECIFIC stresses that bracket/U bolts may move.

HARD stopping with the TOW VEHICLE brakes dominating is one example of this stress,

EXTREME turns or BACKING/TURNS/DIPS/UPHILL in combo is another example where the brakes/U bolts may slip.

i suspect as MORE users TOW more and get into extreme spots, we'll get MORE reports on this stuff.

THOSE REPORTS are good thing, will keep us INFORMED and THINKING about solutions.
____________

ken...

not exactly sure how/where u placed the EXTRA bolts, gotta PIC?

my concern is that if this MORE FIRMLY anchors the A frame bracket and SOMETHING happens...

the YOKE TIP/roller/braket tubes/SLOT where the yolk lies may brake\bend or fail.

((see the pictures in post #10, early in this thread))

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...tml#post756058

whereas SLIPPAGE of the A frame bracket can be corrected,

BROKEN BITS at the yoke will not be easy to remedy IN ROUTE.
____________

Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...This is not factory sanctioned, but works great for me...
and what better place for UNauthorized tweaks than the UNofficial users guide?

this yes but' notation about using "extra bolts" isn't intended to be argumentative and your tweak may work just fine...

the point being sudden/excessive stress and forces will EXIT somewhere and moving that outlet to another location may NOT be wise.

what IS wise is...

always check your set up after ANY sudden/extreme event happens while towing, parking or with ODD feedback while in motion.

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:28 PM   #234
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2air, Good points. I want to clarify, though, the truck and trailer stopped right friggen' now. It supprised me how fast nearly 20k stopped. I think it was faster than the truck could do on its own. The only issue was having the trucks brakes engaging faster than the trailer brakes causing the massive "bump".
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:59 AM   #235
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at 2 air's suggestion with trepidation....

okay, I have been towing a 31 ft 85 w/4500 lb axles(translation: gvw of trayla=7500-8500lbs fully loaded-actual wts later). I boondock and I tow with a van. I did not want gasoline in the back of the van. So, I tongue mounted the honda eu3000, and put a 12 gal fuel cell under it, with a 12v fuel pump. Moved the lp outboard. rmvd spare tire and mount-put spare in van (smells like new tire, but not like gas) This set up works well-no gen hassle, no fuel hassle. It still needs "beautifying" (aka it's fugly). after looking at photos of 2air's install, I am quite certain the pp and the tongue gen-gen are mutually incompatible. So Here are a coupla of pix of the gen mt. any thots as to making the two compatible? I will leave it wide open for discussion.

As can be seen, the wd hook up is a little awkward, i had to fab a 90 degree tool, to flip up the chain tensioner-but no big deal. This, of course, as well as the friction sway "controls" will go away. The biggest concern is the wt jacks of the pp and the under A frame brkt. How they would interface with the 1X2inch steel ribs for the gen is in my mind the question.

also, turning radii with wd and sway has not been reduced even tho the lp bottles look like they are in the way-a feature the pp will actually improve due to stinger length. I can make turns tight enough to make my wallet twitch as I know I am scrubbing miles offf the tires.

the last photo shows the aux fuel tank. rmvd the a/s box (and wondered if it was considered structural, cuz it was a bear to remove).

Now, my post is NOT about the tongue mount, nor the friction sway/wd and special tools, etc. My intent is to solicit input as to whether or not you all with pp ex can say if the wt jack set-up could be married into this gen setup? Also, if Sean pipes in his input would be welcome for sure. Thanks to all in advance.
bill
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:02 AM   #236
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thanks for putting the photos up bill...

and i AGREE, lets keep our input to you on SOLVING the pp mounting issues.

after quickly looking, i had recollection of seeing some of those pics elsewhere....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...tor-54172.html

your thread has a boat load of details for anyone that want's to dig into the genset issue primarily.
________

mswartz has a 3000 on the nose of his bambi and rather than move the lp tanks outward, he moved them forward.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...tml#post348978

his web site isn't linking to the details right now,

but i mention this because moving the lp tanks forward might solve some the issue...

i've seen other genset mountings where the lp tanks were taken forward surrounding the tongue jack.

and an arrangement like that APPEARS to solve some of the main issues for pp mounting on your stream
__________

now back to pp install.

the yoke bracket can fit UNDER the A frame and should only be an issue if the angle iron U used is in the exact location.

that's the same issue for the jacks/brackets/U bolts.

although there is some leeway that allows those to mount +/- a few inches forward/aft...

it looks like the generator itself is NOT the primary challenge,

but rather the added A frame outrigger iron for the lp tanks.

and then it's really just the FRONT piece on each side that appears to be the issue ?

does that agree with your matching of the 2 items (pp/genset) after reviewing the pp install photos ?

the jack extensions that connect TO the w/d bars swing forward/back along the sides of the A frame.

this happens during turns, backing and whenever the tv-trailer combination is NOT lined up straight.

so along with the exact SPOT they mount, clearance is needed for the pendulum/arc of motion these jack extensions follow.
_______

continuing with thoughts off the TOPomehead...

-one could mock up these bits ((jacks/brackets/extensions/yoke bracktet)) from wood or card board...

then locate them on YOUR trailer to get a better idea about exactly where the issues are.

-altering the UNDER lp tank support to allow space for the jacks/extensions and this arc of movement looks like the main issue.

hopefully others and SEAN will review your pics and the other thread with details and post up more ideas...

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:34 AM   #237
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at least ONE of the pp mounting issues is clearance for the jacks/brackets and extensions to the w/d bars...

i've tweaked one of your pics to show this area.

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so reworking the lp tank support to detour around this circle can solve that part...

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:51 AM   #238
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off with her head (tank)!

2 air is right on, as can be seen in his modified pix, the gen actually mounts on the perpendicular (to the outriggers) flat bar. Removing the tanks and whacking off the outriggers might solve pp interference. so, where do the lp tanks go? as suggested, hugging the tongue jack may be a solution.
more later.
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