Originally Posted by giantTwinkie
i got my pp on thursday....
hi giant' and welcome to the dark side of towing...
good report, hope the install went well and we look forward to you ADDING to the collective info here.
Originally Posted by Airstream01
...Check your brakes.
good INCIDENT REPORT '01, thanks for taking the time to post it.
i interpret the 'check your brakes' suggestion to include ALL aspects of stopping gear...
parts, controller, setup AND performance of the truck/trayla in combo.
to be sure the trailer brakes engage quickly and with adequate force, it's necessary to SIMULATE hard stops somewhere.
i 2 have had to stop HARD a few times when clueless nuts ahead do somethin' stupid.
fortunately the 6 discs on the stream HELP a lot with stopping and right now!
my routine AFTER a hard stop is to pull OFF at the next safe location...
-check inside the trailer for stuff moved or spilled or broken (change undies as needed)
-check the receiver/hitch pin/chains/7pin/brakeaway/overcenterlatches/jacks/Aframe brackets/YOKE/Ubolts and so on...
-also check the ADJUSTABLE stinger bolts.
IF not certain things are stable, i drop the TONGUE jack and check every thing again without tension on the system.
i'll have MORE on this issue (frame bracket/yoke movement) later but to quickly review...
on the OLDER ORANGE design the hitch head is held fast by lateral/adjustable struts
that are anchored to the A frame with bolts drilled INTO the A frame running THROUGH the jack brackets.
those bolts are GRADE 5 and referred to as SHEAR bolts,
they are intended
to SHEAR/fail in order to avoid damage to the main hitch head/A frame with some towing/stopping/turning stress.
some folks MISTAKENLY replace the shear bolts with grade 8 bolts to FIRM up this connection.
that is a MISTAKE.
essentially that transfers forces to OTHER BITS which may fail and cost more to fix.
the PP doesn't have these struts or drill holes or shear bolts.
instead the yoke is held fast by the 'frame braket' and U bolts.
so again with some SPECIFIC stresses that bracket/U bolts may move.
HARD stopping with the TOW VEHICLE brakes dominating is one example of this stress,
EXTREME turns or BACKING/TURNS/DIPS/UPHILL in combo is another example where the brakes/U bolts may slip.
i suspect as MORE users TOW more and get into extreme spots, we'll get MORE reports on this stuff.
THOSE REPORTS are good thing, will keep us INFORMED and THINKING about solutions.
not exactly sure how/where u placed the EXTRA bolts, gotta PIC?
my concern is that if this MORE FIRMLY anchors the A frame bracket and SOMETHING happens...
the YOKE TIP/roller/braket tubes/SLOT where the yolk lies may brake\bend or fail.
((see the pictures in post #10, early in this thread))
whereas SLIPPAGE of the A frame bracket can be corrected,
BROKEN BITS at the yoke will not be easy to remedy IN ROUTE.
Originally Posted by w7ts
...This is not factory sanctioned, but works great for me...
and what better place for UNauthorized tweaks than the UNofficial users guide?
this yes but' notation about using "extra bolts" isn't intended to be argumentative and your tweak may work just fine...
the point being sudden/excessive stress and forces will EXIT somewhere and moving that outlet to another location may NOT be wise.
what IS wise is...
always check your set up after ANY sudden/extreme event happens while towing, parking or with ODD feedback while in motion.