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Old 01-12-2010, 11:43 AM   #197
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Thanks Steve,
I have not had this trouble, but I will check it before I tow the trailer again. My trailer has removable stainless steel trim pieces on the frame where the jacks attach. I elected to leave them in place and install over them. I am not sure how that affects this.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:01 PM   #198
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ken

the stainless covers probably have little effect on how secure the jack brackets remain.

they are very thin, easily bend/compress, and MAY actually lead to more slipping (it's another layer that can move)...

the MAIN problem with the stainless covers is that rust will form UNDER them...

which will not be obvious till removed.

i left them on mine while using the older orange thing...

and when i took them off this time the rust was major on the A frame.
___________

interestingly, many of the long time dealers take them OFF before selling the trailers.

my understanding is that they were originally intended to protect the A frame during transport TO the dealer only.

and weren't intend for long term use,

but OWNERS started asking/wanting the shiny sleeves left ON....

there are a couple of threads just on this issue and the debate about "on vs off" for the stainless sleeves.

pretty funny really.

they do NOT come on safaris or internationals, last time i checked.

the orange thing uses shear bolts and HOLES drilled into the A frame, so the sleeves dont' affect grip.

i LEFT THEM OFF for the pp install, and unofficially recommend that others with classics leave them OFF too.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:26 PM   #199
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lOCKNUTS

Another thing to possibly consider is putting locknuts on those U-Bolts.I have been thinking about this for a while and now that this arm incident has happened I think I will be getting some and also making my own plate for that mounting bolt on the side of the frame.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:22 PM   #200
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Hi, from the looks of things, the screw jacks need a better way to attach to the frame; Not very stable looking. Another thought is to make strut brackets to connect the two jacks together.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:21 AM   #201
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IMO it has nothing to do with the "U" bolts. They are only there to keep the jack brackets from falling off until you tighten the set screws. They carry no weight, and counter no torque.

This problem exists on Airstreams, I think, because the jack brackets are made to universally fit all trailers, and so there is extra space between the tongue and the bracket that the set screw has to take up. The fact that the Airstream tongue is made from tubing, and can give under the set screw, compounds the issue.

I am confident the extra plates will solve the problem.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:55 AM   #202
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Thought I should chime in here...

I'm not really sure why this has happened with about 5 customers. That is 5 times out of close to 1800 hitches on the road. That IS 5 too many for me.

The plates DO solve it nicely because they take up the space that allows the jack to tilt.
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:48 AM   #203
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not one of the 5

Striving for perfection is admirable. Thanks! Hard to find in this day and age. I have my Propride since April 09. I have twisted it into some very tight angles and have found no loosening of the mounting brackets since installation with a torque wrench. I have measured the thickness of my box A frame with paint and I get 2.35 in. There is room for a 3/8 in. plate/shim between the mounting bracket and frame. I could fill this space if I find a problem. But so far I no reason to anticipate the necessitiy. Again, Thanks for a quality product that does exactly as advertised.
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:07 AM   #204
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I note that many of the ppppp users who have posted here have fairly heavy spring bars, generally 1000 pound. In contrast, every time the subject comes up with any other hitch, Andy reminds us that heavy spring bars combined with the rapid rear axle spring rate common on most TVs can lead to greater stress on the 'stream. With other hitches, at least, he seems to recommend that when in doubt use spring bars with a smaller rating.

I realize that a certain amount of trial and error at the scales is the only way to get this perfect and that there is some adjustment that can be made with the jacks. However, the spring rate does differ and I would like to take Andy's advice, which would mean running 750 pound bars for my setup (I expect the tongue weight for my rig will end up midway between 750-1000 pounds). Does this make sense or are the heavier bars really necessary?
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:20 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I note that many of the ppppp users who have posted here have fairly heavy spring bars, generally 1000 pound. In contrast, every time the subject comes up with any other hitch, Andy reminds us that heavy spring bars combined with the rapid rear axle spring rate common on most TVs can lead to greater stress on the 'stream. With other hitches, at least, he seems to recommend that when in doubt use spring bars with a smaller rating.

I realize that a certain amount of trial and error at the scales is the only way to get this perfect and that there is some adjustment that can be made with the jacks. However, the spring rate does differ and I would like to take Andy's advice, which would mean running 750 pound bars for my setup (I expect the tongue weight for my rig will end up midway between 750-1000 pounds). Does this make sense or are the heavier bars really necessary?
Jammer, If you go back and check Andy's recommendations to go to smaller weight range bars, he is specifically talking about Reese square trunion bars, which are well known for a rough ride. The PP hitch uses round bars, which on the on the other hand, are known for a smooth ride.

Another issue is the actual weight of the PP hitch....I am pulling a 25' with the hitch, and the trailer has a tongue weight of about 780 pounds. But, when you add the 230 pounds of the PP hitch to that, the actual tongue weight is closer to 1000 pounds, which is the weight rating of my bars.

I am happy with the ride with this hitch and weight range bars.
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:47 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I note that many of the ppppp users who have posted here have fairly heavy spring bars, generally 1000 pound. In contrast, every time the subject comes up with any other hitch, Andy reminds us that heavy spring bars combined with the rapid rear axle spring rate common on most TVs can lead to greater stress on the 'stream. With other hitches, at least, he seems to recommend that when in doubt use spring bars with a smaller rating.

I realize that a certain amount of trial and error at the scales is the only way to get this perfect and that there is some adjustment that can be made with the jacks. However, the spring rate does differ and I would like to take Andy's advice, which would mean running 750 pound bars for my setup (I expect the tongue weight for my rig will end up midway between 750-1000 pounds). Does this make sense or are the heavier bars really necessary?
When I ordered my hitch, I had a discussion with Sean, about what bars I should use. I Had previously seen many of Andy's posts about bar rating. Sean stated that I should use 1400# bars. It seemed to me that the manufacturer of the hitch would likely be the best source for this information. I have not regretted that decision once. The ride is very good, much better than I had with my previous TT and an equalizer hitch.
No disrespect intended, but I don't know if Andy has ever used or even seen a ProPride hitch. My advice: Stick with what Sean tells you.
Regards,
Ken

P.S. I notice your setup is similar to mine. In my case it takes a lot of flex of even the 1400# bars to get the weight distributed properly.
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:00 AM   #207
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... Does this make sense or are the heavier bars really necessary?
no it does NOT make sense (but sounds appealing like many myths) and yes PROPERLY rated bars are necessary.

select bars based on anticipated tongue mass, which is MORE than the a/s factory estimates.

the 30 footer needs 1000 OR 1400, IF you plan to carry FULL lp tanks or ADD batteries...

the advice to go 'light' isn't based on any REAL data that ANYONE else has duplicated.

lots of thread space is taken up by this issue.

dual cam hitches rely on bar FLEX to engage the cams properly and light bars SOMETIMES are needed for that purpose.

for example a small trailer with YOUR older 3500 truck.

but the pp doesn't rely on BAR FLEX to engage sway control.

so one may adjust the bars to almost ZERO if that's your need, even 1400 lb bars.

i've had contact with dozens of owners (haha/pp) who TRIED lighter bars and could NOT achieve ideal w/d on their tv...

and they ALL eventually traded up or PURCHASED higher rated bars for larger streams...

the issue/worry becomes 'does bar stiffness affect the forces ON the trailer' structurally and if so HOW...

that too is the debate of a lot of theads, mostly with NO data to support the opinions offered.

here is an example of real data on this issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...tch-53341.html

back in the orange daze, i was able to get a good set up INITIALLY with 1000 lb bars, FULLY tensioned.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

and was advised to go to LIGHTER bars, which didn't exist at the time (for that hitch) and would have UNDONE the ideal distribution.

after towing awhile the 1000lb bars (and truck springs) could no longer balance the axle loads.

and i had to go UP TO 1400 lb bars to achieve proper load balance, AND add a leaf to the truck.

totally the opposite of the 'light bar' approach, but with great data and towing records to support the move.

dont' waste a year and a lot of gyrations on this issue, follow the manufacturers advice...

and those (the other guys posting) who actually have done the exercise.

if you need more user proof check the haha thread too or ANY of the others that really dig into the details.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:10 PM   #208
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A Little More Experience

Went to a rally this weekend, and on the way back we were driving with a cross wind of 20-25MPH, with gusts up to about 35, but the gust speeds are my estimation.

Anyway, on the way home I was following a club member/friend who tows an '85 25' AS with a Ford F150. He uses a Reese roundbar WD hitch with a friction sway control, I helped him hitch up, and knowing the conditions we would be driving in, I thightened the sway control as tight as I could get it by hand.

We had no serious problems, but I couldn't help but notice his trailer being whipped around by the wind. At times, it appeared the trailer would sway at least 6" or more to the Left in the wind. I also noticed at the same time, while watching down the side of our trailer in the same wind conditions, no swaying at all.

I was definately feeling the wind, but there was no swaying. I really like the way this ProPride hitch performs.
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:45 AM   #209
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Beware

I'm not sure if this is the place for this post but thought it would be good here since many future customers read about the PP here in this thread.

Just found out about a new tactic being used.

It seems there is a company advertising on Google for the term "propride hitch." THAT isn't the problem. That is how Google advertising works for keywords.

The problem is this...

An Airstream dealer clicked on the ad to order a 3P-1400 for a customer. (The customer SPECIFICALLY named the hitch and the model)

The company at the other end of the ad quoted a hitch price and shipping to this dealer.

Luckily, someone else at the dealership called me and I had to return the call. By returning the call I found out that they had ALREADY been quoted a price and delivery on the hitch. Well, THAT is impossible since I am the person that does that and it had NOT happened.

Anyway, the purpose here is to let future PP customers know that they should provide the PHONE NUMBER of ProPride, Inc. to the dealer if they wish to purchase their hitch along with their Airstream.

(P.S.- The customer IS getting what he wants so it was all cleared up with the dealer.)
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:07 AM   #210
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In all the discussions of proper fastener torque, is there a reason there is no mention of use of Loctite or a similar thread locking compound? I use the stuff all the time and have much more faith in it than I do in split-ring lockwashers.

Another idea to consider would be upgrading the split rings to toothed lockwashers which have far greater holding ability. Or, for things like the WD jacks, nuts with the nylon friction lock feature.

With all this discussion of retorquing fasteners it seems to me there must be a better way. Aside from worst-case scenarios like aluminum wheels (where lockwashers can't be used and the stretchable length of the fastener is small) periodic retorquing shouldn't be necessary.
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