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Old 12-03-2009, 10:06 AM   #155
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Houston, we have a problem

Installing the yoke, and I've ran into a fairly serious problem that I'm not sure I can fix. The nut holder for the left yoke bolt is either too large, or the hole for the yoke bolt was drilled wrong. Based on what I can tell, it appears to me the bolt is drilled a little too far forward as the yoke looks a little canted when you insert the bolt.

Photos:

Good side, and how it should look.


Bad side, not good.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:57 AM   #156
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Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
So I was doing a little research last night on bolt torques. I tend to overthink things...
we must have attended the same school...

it's not over thinking at all, i had the same questions, having stretched/broken several studs one of the trailer hubs last year.

the table u found is GOOD info.

always be careful using an extension/cheater bar, with the UPPER limits of torque.

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Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...post 17 your photos clearly show you have the big arse flat washers on both sides of the bronze bushing. The instructions do not mention this...
again, good catch brian.

there are several 'hummms' in the official instructions...

some appear to be a result of UPdates to the product,

while others are just really tortured usage of our native language and grammar...

this is part of the reason i posted the 'quick steps' for install.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:11 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
Installing the yoke, and I've ran into a fairly serious problem that I'm not sure I can fix. The nut holder for the left yoke bolt is either too large, or the hole for the yoke bolt was drilled wrong. Based on what I can tell, it appears to me the bolt is drilled a little too far forward as the yoke looks a little canted when you insert the bolt...
hummm...

i had ONE that was snug and attributed it to a little THICKER powder coat on the nut holder.

by placing the nut first, then screwing in the bolt (withOUT the yoke) i was able to get it started and compress the snugness away...

doesn't look like you can do that.

i'm sure you considered these quick adaptions...

-grind the nut holder down a few millimeters...
-
-use a LONGER bolt on that side of the yoke, so that the nut is PAST the nut holder, then lock it down with another nut...

since you are headed OUT soon, i think you'll need a temporary fix.

then perhaps sean can SHIP the corrected parts to JACKSON CENTER, where u can make a proper fix.
__________

keep in mind i'm just a regular user like the rest of us.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:47 PM   #158
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Yeah, I tried puttlng the nut in and then starting the bolt-no go. I called Sean, directed him to the post and said he didn't think grinding the nut down a little would weaken it substantially, so thats what I did. I then polished the area I ground to prevent any crack propagation from the grinding gouges. I'm going to keep an eye on it. The nut does carry load both axially and radially and if I see any cracks develop, I'll pull it and go buy a Grade 8 nut and grind it down, and if that fails I'll push for warranty replacement of the hitch head.

Ground down and polished nut


So I got everything installed and got the stinger set at one hole away from max drop (~7" I think), the only problem is even tightening with a jack under the stinger, and no washers under the adjuster rivet (placed in the top hole) the stinger is still canted down just a hair (see photos). Is it acceptable to just not use the rivet? Do I place it in the bottom hole? Is the stinger OK as it sits? I'd prefer it level, but I know next to nothing about W/D hitches (well I do understand how they work) and if it is advantageous to
have it canted down a little I suppose I can live with it.





As far as hitch height and all, how do you all think it looks? I could probably stand to go a little more on the jacks, but do you all think I should go up another notch on the stinger? I haven't been to a scale yet, but plan to go tomorrow.







Finally I performed the patented Inland Andy "jump on the hitch" test. Its pretty soft so should be good to go.

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Old 12-03-2009, 03:05 PM   #159
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hi brian

GOOD PICS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...he didn't think grinding the nut down a little would weaken it substantially, so thats what I did...
i put this in my suggested fixes initially, then deleted it because it doesn't seem like a good idea, long term.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...Is the stinger OK as it sits? I'd prefer it level...
dead level isn't critical, but a tiny bit up/down really depends on IDEAL drop...

for example if ideal is 'in between 2 holes, a little UP or down from the closest hole would be good.

i would prefer a little UP rather than down, IF the truck rear is sinking with hook up.

you COULD grind down the rivet head a bit (make it flatter) this should bring it closer to level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...As far as hitch height and all, how do you all think it looks?... do you all think I should go up another notch on the stinger?...
what was the receiver box height UN hitched? (see post #129)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...I could probably stand to go a little more on the jacks...
eye balling the pics, the truck looks LOW in the rear, while the trailer looks pretty level.

((this could just be my imagination or the natural curve in the earth...))

AFTER you finish LOADING the truck bed, it's gonna be even lower...

that suggests MORE jack-w/d bar tension is needed.

without SCALE readings the next closest method for dialing in JACK/spring bar tension is...

1.-measure the truck wheel well heights at all 4 corners UN hitched...
2.-then hook up and measure the drop at the rear axle and RISE at the front axle..
3. then using the screw jacks, approximate the drop/stance so that it's equal front/back, relative to the readings in #1.

IF the head lights are riding UP/shining high, and the steering is LIGHT...

MORE JACK/spring bar tension is needed.



cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:32 PM   #160
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looking more carefully at your side pics...

-the hitch HEAD is pointing/slanted UP slightly...

((which might just be 'matching' the stinger tilt))

-and u selected the 2nd from the top? hole on the lower jack-w/d bar extensions ((spring bar links)).
____________

almost EVERY haha/pp i've seen is slanted DOWNWARD slightly at the front after proper tensioning...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...own-24356.html

that is partly a function of jack tension (and partly related to haha design)

but combine that with the LENGTHENED jack bars ((spring bar links)) and

my conclusion is there is NOT enough jack tension.

w/d gear ONLY functions (redistributes) if adequate TENSION is placed on the w/d bars...

and that's keeping in mind you have got that HEAVY FRONT bumper thing...

the 'jumping jack dance' has no place in this thread, really.

it is absurd in the extreme.

but your video is fun to view, brokked leg and all!

it's like an 'out take' from hitchcock's vertigo...

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:03 PM   #161
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The jumping jack vid was for comic relief.

The hitch head is pointed up slightly when hitched to match the stinger which is tilted down slightly. Tomorrow I will grind down the rivet slightly to get the stinger more level. That will likely raise everything and inch or so. If that isn't enough I'll go up one more bolt hole on the stinger.

The W/D links are on the second hole from the top. I noticed in your photos, 2air, that yours are on the third hole from top. I'll move mine tomorrow as well.

I'm gonna do the measurement thing tomorrow, then head to the scales.

When I do my move out west later this month, the bed is gonna be full of stuff (motorcycle, tools, etc, etc), but I have aux airbags that I intend to inflate just enough to re-level the truck prior to hitching up.

Reciever box height unhitched was 22.75"

Finally, I did try to grind the nut holder but nothing I had would fit in that small space and it would take a millenia to file that thing down by hand. Not gonna happen.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:49 PM   #162
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Hey Brian,

Everything looks good and that nut won't ever be a problem. That side is supported by the nut block. As I said on the phone this is only time I have had this problem so I'm not sure what could have caused it. The nut block material is the same dimensions and only cut to length. I wonder if there was weld splatter in the fixture which didn't allow that block to fit up tight against the bearing housing when it was welded. That would move the hole slightly forward. We'll be putting a process in place to check this.

Functionally, you won't have ANY performance issues whatsoever with the fix.

On the hitch bar... you don't need to use the rivet if no tilt is required. I would remove it and tighten torque the bolts.

I agree with 2air' on the weight distribution. I think you can give yourself more weight distribution but a trip to the scales will get it dialed in exactly.

Finally, GOOD WORK with a problem right foot! I laughed when I saw the video even before you commented on it comic relief.



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Old 12-03-2009, 06:26 PM   #163
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So here is another question, based on these photos of the rear of the yoke, do I need to move the rear cross brace back a little? Doesn't the yoke roll on that roller when going over a crest/dip in the road or does everything just move on the ball?

By the way, how do my chains look? I think they are about perfect but maybe could stand one link to be taken out.



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Old 12-03-2009, 06:30 PM   #164
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Hey Brian,

Everything looks good and that nut won't ever be a problem. That side is supported by the nut block. As I said on the phone this is only time I have had this problem so I'm not sure what could have caused it. The nut block material is the same dimensions and only cut to length
.................................................. .................................................. ..............
Functionally, you won't have ANY performance issues whatsoever with the fix.

.....................................
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I had the same problem but less severe with my hitch head. I did not mention it because the nut fit, but it was very snug. The lock washer however would not clear the nut block. Since the fit was so tight, it seemed that the lock washer was redundant anyway so I left it out. That nut is not going to come loose until Dec 21, 2012 or later. I plan to tow the trailer to the top of one of the pyramids in Tikal the day before.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:31 PM   #165
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ok good info all around guys...

and we all agree on the action movie too...

at 22.75 inches for the receiver,

u might be at the full drop on the stock stinger.

and i understand there is an EVEN LONGER one if needed for higher trucks.

another nice thing about the adjustability of that piece.

good job solving the problem, looking forward to your review on how it feels towing.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:43 PM   #166
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So here is another question, based on these photos of the rear of the yoke, do I need to move the rear cross brace back a little? Doesn't the yoke roll on that roller when going over a crest/dip in the road or does everything just move on the ball?
another really good question...

my (UNofficial) suggestion is while UNHITCHED, tighten and loosen the screw jacks maximally...

which will move the w/d bars high/low and THAT...

will TILT (up/down) the hitch head through the full range possible.

while doing this INSPECT the yoke tail/cross bar for movement.

THEN reposition the frame bracket as needed for clearance at the roller.

also recheck the yoke/A frame relationship for ~parallel. (see pic 3/4 in post #17)
____________

the yoke clearance may matter SOME during towing,

but during hitch up or UN hitching on some really convoluted parking spots, hitch HEAD TILT can be an issue.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:49 PM   #167
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^^Good idea, I'll give the jacks a whirl tomorrow as well. Thanks
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:55 PM   #168
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at 22.75 inches for the receiver,

u might be at the full drop on the stock stinger.

and i understand there is an EVEN LONGER one if needed for higher trucks.

cheers
2air'
If I go to the full 8" drop, the hitch will be dragging the ground.

Everything is already a little low for my tastes as I intend to do a little rockdocking when I get out west. I think there is less than a foot under the W/D bars.
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