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Old 08-31-2018, 08:52 PM   #1653
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What did the refurb run you if you donít mind sharing?
$300, worth it.

Dan
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:22 PM   #1654
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$300, worth it.



Dan


Seems very reasonable! Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:03 AM   #1655
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We are on our annual four month, 10K mile road trip, and this year's route took us through Grand Blanc, MI. Several months ago we had arranged with Sean to have him do an overhaul of our five year old unit as we passed through, and it went without a hitch (no pun intended). We arrived mid day on Wednesday, dropped off the hitch, and spent the night at the nearby Groveland Oaks County Park - a great place. By late the next morning the hitch was ready, and it looks like a brand new unit. Sean, his father, and his son got it all reinstalled in short order, and we were on our way again quickly.

I've loved that hitch for around 40K miles, and just the short trip to the park and back on a ball reminded me why. The rig bows in the middle, you can feel the trailer moving the truck, and it just didn't feel solid. It was great to get the refurbished hitch back on, the truck tows level and straight and you never know you are in a crosswind unless you notice the trees bending.

If you get a chance and are in the area, pay them a visit. If you don't want a full overhaul, it's worth it just to have Sean take a look at your setup to ensure it's all dialed in correctly.
Another great enroute destination stop. Thanks for the tip. Who knew you could get a bit of new pushed back into a great piece of gear so cheap and fast.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:32 PM   #1656
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Quick question for ProPride usersódo any of you use a 12v instead of an 18v drill for tensioning? I have a few (great) 12V drills in my woodshop and would love to pack one of those in my trailer rather than getting a larger one.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:43 PM   #1657
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I don't use a drill for tensioning...there is a risk of breaking a shear pin in the top of the jack with too much power/torque. Right now I'm cranking them by hand. Eventually I'm installing a set of power-operated jacks with remote control because a) I'm old, tired, and lazy, and b) I'm currently the department head of the Department of Overkill Engineering.

That said, I have 20-volt Dewalt tools that have tons of torque if needed and battery life that is decent. Just don't use an impact driver--use a drill with a torque-limiter adjustment setup and dial it down a bit.
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:25 PM   #1658
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I use an 18V Dewalt. I was told DO NOT use an IMPACT drill.
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:30 PM   #1659
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Have always used an 18v Makita, except when I couldn't find that adapter doo-hicky. If your 12v will turn the nut, torque on!
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:40 PM   #1660
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I use an 18V Ryobi. Starts to bog down right where I want to set it. I don't think there is any risk of shearing a pin with it.

Al
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:24 AM   #1661
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I use the speed wrench that came with the Airstream for the stabilizers. Then I switch to the ratchet wrench that came with the ProPride. That way I can get to the measurement I need for towing slowly.
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:02 PM   #1662
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For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?


Like Switz, we use the speed wrench. When unhitching, we drop the WD jacks 30 turns (15 on one side, 30 on the other, then 15 on the first side). We then reverse the procedure when hitching up. Always on the money when I do final measurement.


For measuring height, I printed a ruler which I then taped to the breaker bar handle. I originally taped the ruler to the inside of each WD jack but they were scraped off in short order.







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Old 01-11-2019, 12:47 PM   #1663
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For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?


Like Switz, we use the speed wrench. When unhitching, we drop the WD jacks 30 turns (15 on one side, 30 on the other, then 15 on the first side). We then reverse the procedure when hitching up. Always on the money when I do final measurement.


For measuring height, I printed a ruler which I then taped to the breaker bar handle. I originally taped the ruler to the inside of each WD jack but they were scraped off in short order.







Greg


Similar to your ruler, I have a dedicated 1/2Ē socket wrench for the over center latches where Iíve placed a piece of tape at 6Ē. Since I always have that wrench with me when Iím hitching up, itís always there as a last check. When I hit the road, if Iíve loaded up differently than I usually do, I occasionally find I need to adjust more or less depending on feel/porpoising. But 95% of the time, itís spot on.

At the beginning of the season, Iíll check my weights again at the CAT scales just to be sure I havenít changed the basics that much. If I do and that requires more or less WD, Iíll put a new piece of tape on the wrench.

I suppose itís possible to scratch a line on the inside of the jack (though I personally wouldnít do it), or, to paint some indicators at 4, 5, 6, 7 inches. But the tape on the wrench works fine for me.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:53 PM   #1664
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For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?
Greg
I used a yellow paint pen and drew a line on jack at my desired hieght. Initially I used some electrical tape until I got everything just right. Paint line is hidden while camping - obvious when needed. I use a Dewalt 20 volt drill driver. I usually overshoot by a little and back down to my line.
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:00 AM   #1665
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The unofficial pp users guide...

I have a tape measure in the box I keep trailer towing and setup stuff in. I used it to set up the jacks accurately.

The new power WD jacks have a cross shaft that synchronizes the two jack motors automagically.
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