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Old 06-12-2017, 10:33 AM   #1485
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:28 PM   #1486
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As yet another follow up - i noticed when I got home and unhitched on Friday night that my height of 18 inches had changed - probably because the spot I unhitch is funky compared to perfectly flat for the TV and TT and I ended up at like 16 inches vs 18 inches

At home - the AS sits on the parking pad level and the truck sets pointing slightly downhill and mildly off camber

As such - I had to go again on watching the coupler closely and that worked fine

So I guess the measurement in 98% of the time may work out. It if off camber and such it may vary some...

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Old 06-14-2017, 09:04 PM   #1487
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What is working for me and my not so perfect eye sight is, I put a finger next to the coupler as I raise the tongue jack. I can feel that small movement as they separate pretty easy.
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Old 07-03-2017, 04:56 PM   #1488
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Anyone tried these with a ProPride or other hitch? Sean is selling these on his website. I would think these would be ideal for Airstreams with a front storage locker where the jacks limits opening angle of the door.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:13 PM   #1489
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I asked Sean about using them and he didn't recommend them for Airstreams. If I recall correctly, it is because of the Airstream's square tubing chassis made mounting them to the A-frame securely an issue.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:18 PM   #1490
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Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
Anyone tried these with a ProPride or other hitch? Sean is selling these on his website. I would think these would be ideal for Airstreams with a front storage locker where the jacks limits opening angle of the door.
I do have customers using them with the 3P when there is clearance issues with the jacks.

The only problem is the straps do not hold the angle of the hitch head when unhitched because there is no downward force on the end the spring bar.

I do have an idea to use a scissor jack with a plate on top under the head to hold it and adjust the angle but I haven't designed that part yet.

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Old 08-17-2017, 08:44 AM   #1491
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Has anyone else had trouble with PP still having a small wiggle even after it is dialed in correctly and being weighed on cat scales and changing to E rated tires?
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:12 AM   #1492
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Where's the wiggle?
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:00 AM   #1493
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its a small bit of sway at the end of the trailer which makes the entire unit feel squirrely at times. at other times it handles perfectly. I've checked all the hitch bolts and remeasured every thing and weighed the rig loaded twice. the trailer is 35' and weighs approximately 8000 # loaded with 1050 tongue weight. The axels are straight and the truck is new.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:04 AM   #1494
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Also, the front axel is within 60 lbs of the unloaded weight and within 1/4 inch unloaded height. the rear is 1/2 inch lower than unloaded height and the trailer sets perfectly level. Ive also tried different heights on the WD jacks with no difference.
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Old 08-21-2017, 03:52 PM   #1495
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Is the yoke centered? You should check it every time. Maybe mark it with markers so you know if it moved.

Some roads that are not completely flat will cause weird movement. But that's normal.

Strong winds will move your rig around, but it's not sway. Sway is when the front part of your TV moves to one side and the back moves to the other side. I had a lot of those with my previous dual cam hitch, and it happened even when traffic passed me on the highway.

Is the wiggle sway for you?
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:45 PM   #1496
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And the head yoke to crossbar under the A-frame bracket joint, for want of a better word, has to have the bolt 'just tight enough' so that there is a very little slack in the connection between the end of the yoke and the crossbar. In Sean's pictures that joint is right under the center of the propane tanks and should be dead center of the a-frame.

It needs to be able to move a little, but too much slop will make it feel like there is a little wander and it will make clunk noises. Too tight, it squeaks.. It bears checking occasionally, and probably a bit of lube like grease to reduce wear. Review the install instructions for the yoke if this makes no sense...
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:54 AM   #1497
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Disappointed in Propride

Yes the yoke is centered. when i installed the yoke I put some 1/4" self tapping screws through the bar into the frame where the U bolts are so it couldn't shift but could sheer the screws it it were to bind. also i used a feeler gauge to set the clearance where the yoke goes through the back with just enough to slide freely with about .0010 clearance.

I have drove fifth wheels and 18 wheelers and this is not even close to their stability. I did finally figure where most of the sway was coming from. It was the slack in the receiver and the shank. New truck and new shank. it had 1/4 of an inch side-to-side movement at 19 inches, which is the length of the singer from the hitch pin to the end of he stinger. When this amount of slop is multiplied out over my 35.5 foot trailer its 6 inches. I drilled a hole at the front of the receiver and welded a 1/2 inch grade 8 nut and bolt to take up the slack. the other thing i did was to replace the hitch pin with a 5/8 x 3.5 grade 8 bolt. I use the propride breaker bar to tighten the 5/8 bolt until the sides squeeze everything tight then I tighten up the 1/2 set screw. This took most of the wiggle out. I also went to the Cat Scales again and weighed the truck loaded and the truck and trailer with the WD dialed in the way i tow (see photos). The weight looks like it should to me, so my conclusion is that long travel trailer will never be as stable as a fifth wheel and most people would like the way mine pulls. Unfortunately, i have enough experience towing other types of set ups to compare, so i can see the short comings.

In my opinion the hitch does improve handling over a conventional hitch and WD; however , many who have invested in one of these hitches, of which I'm one, get caught up in the fact they have paid nearly $3,000 for it and overhype the benefits. I would love to be wrong, but this s what my experience tell me after 18 months of tinkering and adjusting countless numbers of times.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:16 AM   #1498
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bapp', your combo should be rock solid with this setup. It's hard to help troubleshoot another's rig over the internet, but a couple of things come to mind.

With your F150 and Airstream you should have ProPride 1400 lb w.d. bars.

You should have the maximum number of washers that will possibly fit under the rivet in the stinger to get enough downward tilt on the w.d. bars, effectively preloading the bars for lifting the trailer tongue and rear of the truck.

We've found returning the front axle short of it's unloaded weight is not enough on our half-ton trucks. A little more than unloaded weight puts plenty of steering control back in and probably transfers more hitch weight back to the trailer axles. The above-mentioned steps ensure it can be done.

Downward tilt of the w.d. bars after w.d. is applied also ensures the w.d. bars can maintain weight distribution when traveling across the uneven surfaces of the roadway.

Loading truck and trailer. Heavy equipment in the back of the truck's bed males w.d. more difficult and the truck less stable, put any heavy equipment forward in the bed. Heavy gear in/on the back of the trailer can lead to instability if other forces such as cross winds come into play, even though the hitch weight appears good.

The Hensley/ProPride design effectively puts the hitch pivot point near the rear axle like a fifth wheel or semi, and holds the trailer in a straight line behind the tow vehicle which a fifth wheel or semi does not do.

It should be better for you, "wiggle" indicates something isn't right. Keep posting, a photo may help. There are others here with better understanding than I who may be able to help get this sorted out.

Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles

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