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Old 09-19-2016, 08:58 AM   #1429
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2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods , North Carolina
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I use a B&D 18v and it works fine but not for the final 1/2 inch or so. I use the provided ratchet(manual) for the last bit so that I am not putting too much torque on the pin.


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Old 09-19-2016, 10:18 AM   #1430
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2016 30' Classic
Erie , Colorado
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20V Porter Cable with 2 speed clutch, on low. Voltage is your friend, more being better, at least with a reasonably good tool.

2015 Classic
2015 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:26 AM   #1431
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2012 27' Flying Cloud
W , New England
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I have Loewe's version (not sure who manufactures it). 18V with two torque settings - higher torque for the WD jacks on the PP and higher speed for the stabilizers. Same drill. Used to use and impact wrench. Don't do that! 😀
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:34 PM   #1432
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Round Rock , Texas
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Yup... We keep AS on the bow jack at same level as when we joined the stinger parts. Then crank in 5.5 inches above BAL base plates, then lower the bow Jack transferring the weights properly.

When transferring weight BEFORE cranking the BAL jacks puts a huge load on them.. And you are more likely to shear a pin... NEVER USE A TOOL IN IMPACT MODE!!!! Just use in drill with a torque clutch and enable that feature.

On occasion I have even life's the AS bow which allows even easier BAL Jack preload.

YFMV (your fun may vary)
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:15 PM   #1433
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Mountain View , California
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Thanks All! I ordered 20V Porter Cable to test it out.
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Old 09-20-2016, 04:29 PM   #1434
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1963 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
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After 4-5 under performing drills I finally went big and got this.
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It's 18 volts, has 3 speeds and will literally wring itself out of your grip. I have dents in the side wraps where I didn't stop it before the stabilizers hit their stops. It will crank my 1,400 lb bars all the way up if I hang on!
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:45 PM   #1435
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2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
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The unofficial pp users guide...

If you set it for screw driving you can control the torque somewhat. I have scars from where mine jammed a drill bit in a tight space and trapped my hand painfully. The bad part is the drill chuck locks once you release the trigger. I know that's to allow tightening the chick, but it makes it hard to get yourself loose from it if you are trapped.

It's s marvelous tool, but the cheap hand ratchet wrench that came with the ProPride is a lot safer. I'll just swing the wrench for a few minutes. Less painful...

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Old 09-21-2016, 08:39 AM   #1436
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2014 30' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
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With the jack stand still down, I use the Airstream supplied manual speed wrench for the stabilizers to get as much slack out as possible and then switch to the supplied ratchet.

BTW. A ⅛" steel rod can provide the necessary 1/4" piece to replace the keeper on the Airstream speed wrench handle.

I find the manual system works for us. The electric drill sits in the Classic's street side rear compartment under the twin bed and rarely sees the light of day. It stays there in case I need a drill.

We just use the manual system for the 23D.

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TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell

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