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Old 09-19-2016, 08:58 AM   #1429
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I use a B&D 18v and it works fine but not for the final 1/2 inch or so. I use the provided ratchet(manual) for the last bit so that I am not putting too much torque on the pin.

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Old 09-19-2016, 10:18 AM   #1430
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20V Porter Cable with 2 speed clutch, on low. Voltage is your friend, more being better, at least with a reasonably good tool.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:26 AM   #1431
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I have Loewe's version (not sure who manufactures it). 18V with two torque settings - higher torque for the WD jacks on the PP and higher speed for the stabilizers. Same drill. Used to use and impact wrench. Don't do that! 😀
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:34 PM   #1432
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Yup... We keep AS on the bow jack at same level as when we joined the stinger parts. Then crank in 5.5 inches above BAL base plates, then lower the bow Jack transferring the weights properly.

When transferring weight BEFORE cranking the BAL jacks puts a huge load on them.. And you are more likely to shear a pin... NEVER USE A TOOL IN IMPACT MODE!!!! Just use in drill with a torque clutch and enable that feature.

On occasion I have even life's the AS bow which allows even easier BAL Jack preload.

YFMV (your fun may vary)
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:15 PM   #1433
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Thanks All! I ordered 20V Porter Cable to test it out.
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Old 09-20-2016, 04:29 PM   #1434
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After 4-5 under performing drills I finally went big and got this.
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It's 18 volts, has 3 speeds and will literally wring itself out of your grip. I have dents in the side wraps where I didn't stop it before the stabilizers hit their stops. It will crank my 1,400 lb bars all the way up if I hang on!
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:45 PM   #1435
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The unofficial pp users guide...

If you set it for screw driving you can control the torque somewhat. I have scars from where mine jammed a drill bit in a tight space and trapped my hand painfully. The bad part is the drill chuck locks once you release the trigger. I know that's to allow tightening the chick, but it makes it hard to get yourself loose from it if you are trapped.

It's s marvelous tool, but the cheap hand ratchet wrench that came with the ProPride is a lot safer. I'll just swing the wrench for a few minutes. Less painful...


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Old 09-21-2016, 08:39 AM   #1436
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With the jack stand still down, I use the Airstream supplied manual speed wrench for the stabilizers to get as much slack out as possible and then switch to the supplied ratchet.

BTW. A ⅛" steel rod can provide the necessary 1/4" piece to replace the keeper on the Airstream speed wrench handle.

I find the manual system works for us. The electric drill sits in the Classic's street side rear compartment under the twin bed and rarely sees the light of day. It stays there in case I need a drill.

We just use the manual system for the 23D.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:58 PM   #1437
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HA to ProPride Conversion

Because I am a glutten for punishment I am converting a Hensley Arrow to get some of the propride features. Mainly the yoke and adjustable hitch bar.

Does any one see a reason why the hitch won't work backwards from the Pro Pride configuration? I am using a OEM Curt hitch bar from there MV series hitch and it makes it 1000% easier to just add the plates vs. cutting the hitch bar apart to swap ends.

I tried the OCL and they latch up just fine with the extra thickness of the 1/2" plate in there?
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:55 AM   #1438
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Over?

I am likely going to go with the way I have it shown in the picture, it's backwards from the 3P but I can't see if it matters any.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:32 PM   #1439
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Sorry CarterKraft - I don't know what you're doing or how to react. I'm reading and not ignoring - just can't add much to the discussion. Sorry.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:39 PM   #1440
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I think he means, does it matter that his side plates are welded to the stinger half of the assembly, rather than the receiver half of the assembly. I'm inclined to say that it doesn't matter, as long as proper welding and steel is used...but really an engineer needs to answer...and would need a lot more information.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:44 PM   #1441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I think he means, does it matter that his side plates are welded to the stinger half of the assembly, rather than the receiver half of the assembly. I'm inclined to say that it doesn't matter, as long as proper welding and steel is used...but really an engineer needs to answer...and would need a lot more information.
Yes exactly.

I am copying the points of the 3P ProPride hitch I think are superior to the Hensley Arrow. I was going to just buy the 3P adjustable HA stinger but they are out of stock and I don't need to spend the $300+ on that improvement anyway.

The "backwards" configuration is really just like all the other WD hitches on the market, thus I bought a pre-fabbed truck side hitch bar to use in the conversion so I don't have to drill all the holes in the solid stock. I will likely go ahead and get it all tacked up and see If I can spot a problem. I have already tested it fairly well clamped together and don't see the difference.
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:19 AM   #1442
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2017 AS Classic 30 and ProPride P3 Install

Hello we just brought a 2017 Airstream Classic 30 and are going to install a ProPride P3 hitch. During the install what are the tricks and fixes to any problems that you encountered? I'm looking for anything that is particular to a 2017 Airstream Classic or information from anyone who has installed on a 2017 Classic.
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