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Old 12-04-2009, 04:11 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
ok good info!

it makes sense that the bottom hole will work, but the rivet won't be under any compression with the w/d bars flexed.

yes i think the full drop is gonna be your final stinger position but ....

the air bags add another variable and i don't wanna compete with your calibrated eyes (i've only got 1 eye)
___________

3 platforms+cat scale= good to go! (hopefully another scale master will be working)

cheers
2air'
True the rivet isn't under any real compression, but that extra bolt I threw in there is. Its rock solid.

I am going to go to the full 8" drop and probably put the bars back on the second hole, then I'm going to hook up and head back to the scale.

Based on my unofficial trip to the dump today (to dispose of all the PP packaging ), when I first rolled on the scale with just the front, it was around 4200 lbs, total truck was 7540. So by math, that means ~3340 on the back axle.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:11 PM   #182
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Oh contrair (sp?), the rivet does fit with 4 bolts in.

DOH! I obviously didn't know that. I could swear I tried it once and the holes didn't line up. Anyway, good to know.

The part about not being able to have any tilt is at least correct...
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #183
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Well I went ahead and set the stinger to the full 8" drop, put the W/D bar links back on the second hole, then hitched up, set the W/D jacks at 12cm from bottom on each side, which nearly leveled the truck as best as I could tell sitting in my driveway, then I added 25 psi to both airbags on the rear axle, which finished leveling the truck and trailer, and I went back to the scales. New guy knew what was up, and I got everything weighed.

Truck is a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 Ext. Cab, short bed, 7.3L with a full tank of diesel (~30 gal), normal compliment of tools I carry in the toolbox, and ~40 gal of fresh water in the potable water tank on the 'Stream, full propane, but I was not in the truck since I couldn't reach the button to tell the guy I was set up.

Front Axle----4140 lbs
Rear Axle-----4380 lbs
Trailer---------5460 lbs
GCW-----------13980 lbs

I was pretty happy with these numbers, and there was a bit of a line, so I decided not to reweigh.

With me in the truck, it would probably make the front axle about 4250 and the rear 4450. Add my dad or my girl and we're over 4300 on the front and its only rated to 4400 so I think I'm close enough for gov't work.

Based on my stop at the dump today, I've distributed ~900 lbs of tongue weight onto the truck, so the weight of the 'Stream makes sense.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:22 PM   #184
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DOH! I obviously didn't know that. I could swear I tried it once and the holes didn't line up. Anyway, good to know.

The part about not being able to have any tilt is at least correct...
For what its worth, Sean, I do not think it would fit on the top hole, as I tried it and couldn't get all four bolts in. I probably could of fiddled with it a little more and it might of gone in, but that sucker is heavy and I was gettin' tired The bottom hole for the rivet works fine on mine though.
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:28 AM   #185
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We took a short trip camping this week, and after hitching up the last morning, and then stopping for fuel, I found the jack on the curb side loose and tilted.

We went behind the service station, released the tention, and tightened the jack. Made it home fine with no troubles. At this point, I don't know if I didn't tighten it sufficently when I installed it, or if it worked loose. At any rate, something to watch out for.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:07 AM   #186
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good report steve

proof that it is important to check the rigging often while traveling.

i can understand how 1 of the U bolt nuts might work loose,

but this also would require the A frame retention bolt on the back side of the bracket to also work loose.

that bolt as a 'lock down' nut on it as well.
_____________

this thing has a LOT of nuts to check and keep snug.

u might consider marking all of them (once properly adjusted) with RED or WHITE auto touch up paint.

this would provide a quick visual of loosening.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:37 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
good report steve

proof that it is important to check the rigging often while traveling.

i can understand how 1 of the U bolt nuts might work loose,

but this also would require the A frame retention bolt on the back side of the bracket to also work loose.

that bolt as a 'lock down' nut on it as well.
_____________

this thing has a LOT of nuts to check and keep snug.

u might consider marking all of them (once properly adjusted) with RED or WHITE auto touch up paint.

this would provide a quick visual of loosening.

cheers
2air'
Good idea, 2air. I will do that. I already tightened all the U-bolts and the retention bolts at the service station. I did find the one that had tilted loose, but not the other. It sort of makes me believe I didn't tighten it adequately in the beginning.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:19 PM   #188
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I had the same problem. I couldn't get the struts to stay still no matter how tight they were. Finally called Sean and he sent me some different types of plates that solved the problem. That was last year and I have put approx 12k miles on the hitch.
Check with Sean @ propride.
Bob Adney
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:44 PM   #189
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Hi, this seems to me, to be the time for useing double nuts or aircraft/self locking nuts. A drop of red lock-tite could help too. Also it would help if these parts were made with fine threads; They hold better.
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:39 AM   #190
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Smile Locking nuts

Hi:
If the problem was nuts coming loose-excellent suggestion. However, the problem was that we couldn't get the nuts tight enough.
Sean took care of problem immediately
Bob
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:16 PM   #191
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I had the same problem. I couldn't get the struts to stay still no matter how tight they were. Finally called Sean and he sent me some different types of plates that solved the problem. That was last year and I have put approx 12k miles on the hitch.
Check with Sean @ propride.
Bob Adney
Hi, maybe we could have either you [rochar3] or Sean post pictures of these new plates and explain what the difference was.
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Old 01-02-2010, 06:54 AM   #192
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Pictures

Hi:
Airstream in Storage, no pix. Talk to Sean and use my name-Bob Adney-He may remember me and the fix he provided. Good Luck
Bob
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:46 AM   #193
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
We took a short trip camping this week, and after hitching up the last morning, and then stopping for fuel, I found the jack on the curb side loose and tilted.

We went behind the service station, released the tention, and tightened the jack. Made it home fine with no troubles. At this point, I don't know if I didn't tighten it sufficently when I installed it, or if it worked loose. At any rate, something to watch out for.
Just an update on this issue....after reading about my little problem with the jack tilting here, Sean of ProPride without any inquiry from me, sent me the required shim plates that are designed to eliminate the problem. I've installed them, and hopefully this little issue will be put to rest.

IMHO, this is excellent customer service and support. My kudo's to Sean of ProPride.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:29 AM   #194
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Just an update on this issue....after reading about my little problem with the jack tilting here, Sean of ProPride without any inquiry from me, sent me the required shim plates that are designed to eliminate the problem. I've installed them, and hopefully this little issue will be put to rest.

IMHO, this is excellent customer service and support. My kudo's to Sean of ProPride.
I am a little confused about what is happening. Are the U-bolts running out of thread before the nuts are tight?
Regards,
Ken
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Old 01-12-2010, 10:33 AM   #195
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The "U" bolts are, in my opinon, not really too strong, and the set screw from the back is really what holds the jacks in place. With the Airstream tongue being square tubing, it can compress and leave the set screw not tight enough to hold the jack upright. The addition of the shim plates, as I understand what's happening, spreads the load of the set screws over a much bigger area, and reduces the free space between the tongue and the bracket, thus keeping them from loosening.

Sean, please correct me if I have this wrong.

Sean told me that what I had happen only occurs with a small number of hitches.
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Old 01-12-2010, 10:42 AM   #196
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all correct.

the jack brackets are designed to fit a variety of A frames, so they are made wide enough to accommodate thicker beams

while the LONG set screw works on solid I or C beams for full compression...

adding a shim under the set screw is a good idea on streams with the thinner box beam for this reason.

but this creates another issue too, because IF the bolt loosens and the shim falls out, the gap gets big/sloppy fast.

a better tweak for our skinny, thin walled A frames would be a shim/foot plate with a THREADED neck piece attached...

the set screw could then thread INTO the shim, spread the compression force AND held in place by the threaded neck.

once the screw jacks are RAISED, the jack brackets are held in place PRIMARILY by the INCREASE in spring bar tension.

but under LIGHT w/d bar tension,

or when CONNECTING/UNhooking (if way off center/angled) the brackets rely on the U bolts and set screw.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-12-2010, 10:43 AM   #197
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Thanks Steve,
I have not had this trouble, but I will check it before I tow the trailer again. My trailer has removable stainless steel trim pieces on the frame where the jacks attach. I elected to leave them in place and install over them. I am not sure how that affects this.
Regards,
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:01 AM   #198
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ken

the stainless covers probably have little effect on how secure the jack brackets remain.

they are very thin, easily bend/compress, and MAY actually lead to more slipping (it's another layer that can move)...

the MAIN problem with the stainless covers is that rust will form UNDER them...

which will not be obvious till removed.

i left them on mine while using the older orange thing...

and when i took them off this time the rust was major on the A frame.
___________

interestingly, many of the long time dealers take them OFF before selling the trailers.

my understanding is that they were originally intended to protect the A frame during transport TO the dealer only.

and weren't intend for long term use,

but OWNERS started asking/wanting the shiny sleeves left ON....

there are a couple of threads just on this issue and the debate about "on vs off" for the stainless sleeves.

pretty funny really.

they do NOT come on safaris or internationals, last time i checked.

the orange thing uses shear bolts and HOLES drilled into the A frame, so the sleeves dont' affect grip.

i LEFT THEM OFF for the pp install, and unofficially recommend that others with classics leave them OFF too.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:26 AM   #199
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lOCKNUTS

Another thing to possibly consider is putting locknuts on those U-Bolts.I have been thinking about this for a while and now that this arm incident has happened I think I will be getting some and also making my own plate for that mounting bolt on the side of the frame.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:22 PM   #200
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Hi, from the looks of things, the screw jacks need a better way to attach to the frame; Not very stable looking. Another thought is to make strut brackets to connect the two jacks together.
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