the ultimate haha users guide...

[2airishuman]

don...

when hooked up the truck rear will drop a little...

this might get the trailer to level.

u won't KNOW until u try it.

the haha sway control is FULLY functional with very little or no pressure on the w/d bars...

so IF your tongue is light enough and a scale measurement confirms tv axle loads are appropriate...

u may be fine with very little tension on the spring bars...

or going to the LIGHTER 750lb bars they now offer.

as an experiment i once towed 2000 miles with very little jack/spring bar tension...

and the haha still worked perfectly.

cheer
2air'

[adonh]

just ordered the replacement 8" drop bar from HA and I will post comparison pictures after it arrives. Thanks for all of the input.

Don

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by adonh

just ordered the replacement 8" drop bar from HA and I will post comparison pictures after it arrives. Thanks for all of the input.

Don

What is the charge for replacing a bar these days?

[adonh]

The bar is $200, shipping to me is $40. They credit the $200 when I send it back. So I am out $80 shipping both ways.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Hensley Ron

Spring bar u-brackets come with the spring bars. I didn't see the hitch bar mentioned. Did you get the right size? Give Jarrod a call at x103 and he can walk through the parts with you. No pressure to buy anything, but we want to make sure you're getting the right parts and safe.

Ron, I was finally able to talk to Jarrod today. He was as helpful as possible, checked serial number of the unit, verified what I needed, and made a few suggestions that should help get things moving along as soon as I can come up with the cash to get what is needed. I keep telling myself the cost of the parts is still less than a new Reese Strait-line, and will work better when done.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

as just another silly user...

i agree 10 might be needed on these new burbs and some of the new 4x4 trucks...

and they don't offer 10 inch drop bars, covered back in early posts and other threads...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ver-41577.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ion-43261.html

cheers
2air'

In one of the above threads someone suggested maybe using the Blue Ox adjustable drop receiver and then use the straight, 2" or 4" HA drop bar to get the required 10" drop.

Here is what Blue Ox had to say:

Blue Ox does not recommend using multiple drop receivers in succession.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by adonh

maybe using the Blue Ox adjustable drop receiver and then use...

yeah that's a bad idea.

even when a brand ok's the use of their own extensions or add ons...

the rating is usually DIALED BACK for the receiver extension or accessory.

it would be tempting to fit a bike rack, grill holder or ipod bracket somewhere in the mix...

but nothing comes between the stinger and receiver on my rig...

except for the nk mudflap bracket which slips OVER the stinger before insertion.

otoh, the folks making the other NEW 4-bar hitch have suggested THEY will have an adjustable stinger with MORE drop...

properly rated AND that will fit the haha...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ach-37994.html

as soon as that gadget is available we can it using it to the users guide!

cheers
2air'

[runningbarre]

Why not just use a sway bar? I pulled our 34' Classic with our ford f250 and didn't experience too much sway. I will admit to being a newbie, but I was thinking a 70$ sway bar sounds better than a two thousand dollar hitch. Do you really get what you pay for in this case?

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by runningbarre

Why not just use a sway bar?...Do you really get what you pay for in this case?

hi 'barre...

IF YOU are happy with the sway bar, keep doing what u r doing....

the question of getting what u pay for is asked and answered in LOTS of the hitch threads....

the one final correct answer isn't revealed in this life, perhaps the next dimension will have answers...

i see u r relatively new, so don't take this the wrong way, but...

it's not a topic for THIS thread, so please don't ask here....

go back and read page one posts in this thread OR try here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ort=replycount

in the top 50 'hitch threads' are dozens that include the $/worth/don't-need-it rhetoric...

so read 'em and find the answer YOU want...

if that's too much work, try just this ONE thread...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ight-8898.html

we're just users exchanging info on using/improving/adjusting/tweaking the haha here.

IF u are looking for someone to TRY to convince you that you need a haha many of those other threads deal with that too.

here is one specifically on that issue, i doubt ne1 was swayed onewayortheother...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...tch-36960.html

cheers
2air'

[millvalleyca]

Hi guys
I just got back from a weekend trip and took some new pictures of my setup.
Please compare them to post 606 where the front of the trailer is pointed downward.
The tension bar is set at the top line.
The new pictures are set at the bottom line (looks like the trailer is slightly high in the front)
What do you think? Better? Level?
Thanks for looking,
Dennis

[millvalleyca]

Sorry...I attached two of the same pictures in the last post.
Here is a pic with the tension set in the middle. (sorry about the lousy picture..I cut off the front of the truck!)
Thanks
Dennis

[ROBERT CROSS]

Looks a lot better. Have you noticed an improvement while towing?

We had to get a new stinger this season when we changed TV. Once we were level and set on the third line with 3 holes showing it felt better, especially on the twisty back roads. Plus we scrapped our butt getting into our favorite campsite.

My co-pilot hates it when I park sideways in the lots.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

...Please compare them to post 606 where the front of the trailer is pointed downward...

hi millva'

the combo looks a LOT better in these 2 pics in post # 650.

in #651 pic the trailer nose looks a tad low, but if could be solar spots affecting my view.

assuming the truck handles well and measurements or scale weights are right...

i think you've got it!

so how did it FEEL towing?

there is one small issue.

the rear tire on the far bike in the truck bed looks low and the derailleur needs adjustment...

cheers
2air'

[adonh]

Originally Posted by adonh

just ordered the replacement 8" drop bar from HA and I will post comparison pictures after it arrives. Thanks for all of the input.

Don

The replacement 8" drop bar came in from HA and here are the pictures of how it hooks up, including the one picture of the old 4" drop bar:

[adonh]

Just a note, the storage space for the AS is about 1 1/2" higer that the surface where the Suburban is parked. The pictures hooked up are on a level surface.

Don

[2airishuman]

hi don

it looks pretty good now, right?

based on that last pix, hooked up and full length the trailer appears level.

the 'burb looks a little low at the rear but that's common and "ok" from my understanding.

of course axle weights are the real measure of ideal adjustment and don't forget tv tire pressures.

did you take a full view shot (like the last one) with the spring bars fully RELAXED, as well as tensioned?

a before/after tensioning makes a nice comparison view.

and IF you measure trailer 'levelness' with/without spring bar tension it helps in not OVER tensioning the springbars.

does your 'burb' have airbags/autolevel? there is another long thread here somewhere on that 'burb specific topic...

cheers
2air'

[adonh]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

did you take a full view shot (like the last one) with the spring bars fully RELAXED, as well as tensioned?

a before/after tensioning makes a nice comparison view.

and IF you measure trailer 'levelness' with/without spring bar tension it helps in not OVER tensioning the springbars.

does your 'burb' have airbags/autolevel? there is another long thread here somewhere on that 'burb specific topic...

cheers
2air'

I did not take a full lenght shot with the spring bars relaxed. But I will later this week when I go pick up the trailer and bring in home prior to a labor day trip. I will do the meassuring as well. My Suburabn dpes not have the air bag leveling system.

Don

[millvalleyca]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

hi millva'

the combo looks a LOT better in these 2 pics in post # 650.

in #651 pic the trailer nose looks a tad low, but if could be solar spots affecting my view.

assuming the truck handles well and measurements or scale weights are right...

i think you've got it!

so how did it FEEL towing?

there is one small issue.

the rear tire on the far bike in the truck bed looks low and the derailleur needs adjustment...

cheers
2air'

Thanks 2air
The AS tows great! To tell you the truth.... I really did not feel a difference. Maybe it's because I have the perfect tv?
I think the perfect tension will be between the middle and bottom line.

I don't know how ou do it 2air but you are right....the far bike tire is low

Happy camper Dennis

[crispyboy]

Well I finally finished my refurbished HAHA (#2278) that I purchased from Ebay.
I started with this....



I broke the HAHA down and found lots of moisture in the bearings. Let it be known that with a used HAHA you may have to replace the bearings due to pitting. I was able to get by with only replacing one of the el-cheapo Chinese bearings. It literally fell apart in my hand.










Here is the finished product.







Now I need some opinions. Should I use the lower hole for the strut bar....




Or the upper hole for the strut bar....




Here is the tow vehicle and trailer.
The center of the tow vehicle receiver is 14 3/4" (unloaded). "The center of the HAHA receiver is 9 1/2" (trailer level).

I believe I am going to need a 2" drop as the top of the trailer frame measures 15" by the rear bumper and 17" at the propane tank. What do you think?




The tow vehicle was 1/2" low in the rear and 1/2" high in the front.

[2airishuman]

excellent post crisy'

the pre/post pics are distinctive...

were there any issues replacing the bearings and firming things up?

how did you decide on tightness, it looks very much like an hub/wheel bearing job, including the hub style cotter pins?

did u disassemble the screw jack barrels too, how'd they look inside? or did u just lube 'em up and paint 'em?

Originally Posted by crispyboy

...Now I need some opinions. Should I use the lower hole for the strut bar...

taken directly from the haha owner manual...

"If your frame bracket has more than one hole available, select the one
which positions the strut closest to parallel with the top of the trailer A-frame. "

so based on the pics, use the lower frame bracket holes (your picture #7) ...

i think this is the correct position for all/most modern 'streams.

as i recall u've got the 'modified' frame bracket/jack mounts mentioned back in post 548/9...

thanks for adding this info!

cheers
2air'