Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-08-2006, 08:29 PM   #113
Rivet Master
 
2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 822
Images: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodedareas
What would I do without you folks.My masters degree didn't prepare me for a Ha ha.
Thanks so much, I think you should publish all of this valuable data
Woodedareas--- I highly recomend you go to the Hensley webb site and down load their owner-installation manual. Read through it several times. By the time you recieve your haha you'll recognize the componets and it will begin to make since. ----pieman
__________________

__________________
Mike Lewis is offline  
Old 12-10-2006, 09:58 AM   #114
3 Rivet Member
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Lake Forest , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 184
There was a mention in this thread about a need for a grease gun. I also read the owners manual and since I will have my hitch by the end of the month I thought I would buy a grease gun. Is there any particular fitting that I should be concerned about and is there any particular grease product that is recommended? I assume it comes in a cartridege.
Thanks for this great thread.
__________________

__________________
woodedareas is offline  
Old 12-10-2006, 10:59 AM   #115
Rivet Master
 
2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 822
Images: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodedareas
There was a mention in this thread about a need for a grease gun. I also read the owners manual and since I will have my hitch by the end of the month I thought I would buy a grease gun. Is there any particular fitting that I should be concerned about and is there any particular grease product that is recommended? I assume it comes in a cartridege.
Thanks for this great thread.
Woodedareas---No --it's just a standard automotive grease zerk and a universal chasis lub. Most any auto parts store or farm implement supply store should have what you're looking for. There are 2 types of grease guns--- the cartridege type which uses tubes of grease that you refill the gun with and--- 2nd the bulk filled type where the gun itself holds the grease and must be filled from a bulk container. The cart. type is easier to use and less messy. The other would be best and less expensive but only where large quanitys are used. Another option is to drop the spring bars out and lub them by hand. All thats needed for this is a small container of grease and a hand full of rags.
It's messier but the cheapest way. Personally I prefer this as it gives me a chance to inspect the bar ends for wear.{and I'm cheap} --- pieman
__________________
Mike Lewis is offline  
Old 12-21-2006, 06:46 PM   #116
_
 
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
hi woodedareas...

i see you asked about the grease issue...

like mike noted there are options...

i use the cartridge style grease gun with a 1 foot flexible hose and standard grease fitting...

about 20$ from napa...a tube of grease last several months; perhaps a year.

yes the bars can be dropped out for greasing, but that is messy and more work...

also hensley recommends lubing the bars every 500miles...

i hit mine with enough to ooze out the old stuff every couple of days while on the road...

this may be overkill but according to them 'you cannot grease too often'

with the grease gun it takes less time than checking tire pressures....

as an aside the screw/stabilizer jacks on the airstream also need greasing occasionally.

the jacks have the same size zerk fittings...so the gun does double duty.

in the pics of the 'spring bar swap' you can see the fresh red grease just squirted...

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline  
Old 12-21-2006, 10:37 PM   #117
GStephens
 
GStephens's Avatar
 
1982 31' Limited
1953 25' Cruiser
Hamilton , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 563
Images: 15
I just completed installation of the Hensley a few days ago and tried my hand at hooking up for the first time yesterday. I had read the manual several more times worried that hooking up would be a hassel, at least the first few times. Well, I was wrong. At least I was wrong to worry about hooking up the first time. All by myself, I backed to within about a foot of the trailer which had the stinger in the Hensley hitch head. I looked things over, took the stinger out and inserted it into the receiver hitch assembly on the truck, put the pin in and stood back to look everything over once again. Everything looked straight. All that seemed to be needed was to lower the trailer a bit. That acomplished, I scotched the trailer wheels a little better, got in the truck and backed up. Viola! Success! First time!

I'm sure there will be a learning curve and everything may not always go this well, but I don't forsee that the Hensley is going to be all that difficult to hitch and unhitch. Based upon this first experience, its the easiest trailer hitch I've ever hooked up and I pull some sort of trailer most every day ranging from goosenecks to bumper pulls.
GStephens
__________________
GStephens is offline  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:17 PM   #118
_
 
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
thanks for the report gstephens...

so the installation went well too?

and just wait till you tow with it some...

that's when the real pleasure hits...

not every hook up will be as easy,

but so what.

keep us updated on your user experience.

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline  
Old 12-22-2006, 06:33 AM   #119
GStephens
 
GStephens's Avatar
 
1982 31' Limited
1953 25' Cruiser
Hamilton , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 563
Images: 15
I have two questions 2Air.

First question, when installing the struts I carefully measured the distance from the ball to the leading edge of each bracket. They are installed as directed at precisely 25 1/2". Then I hand tightened the struts and measured the length of each strut from pin to pin on the theory that if these measurements are identical, the hitch would be centered. I am aware that the instructions tend to discount that the struts have to be identical in length, but that is what I did. When initially measured, the struts were not quite identical in length. I carefully adjusted or tightened each strut until they are now equal. I don't think I overly torqued either strut nut, but they ARE tight. Is there a problem in having these strut nuts tight or should the user somehow achieve equalization by hand tightening the nuts. The installation manual does suggest that the struts should feel like a solid bar once installation is achieved and they do. My hitch head now also appears to be perfectly straight with the midline of the trailer.

Second, my installation guide refers to marks on the lower ends of the jacks that one uses to make certain that each jack is adjusted the same in order that the load bars are equally tensioned. I can neither see nor feel these marks. I had a younger friend look at and feel for the marks. He couldn't find them either. We checked both the inside and outside surfaces thinking that I might have mounted the jacks incorrectly. Nothing. Short of the existance of any marks, I counted the number of complete turns in each jack's adjustment apparatus. There are 50 complete 360 degree turns on each jack. Given that, about how many turns do you typically tighten your jacks. I am just curious. I realize that I'll need to measure the distance from the top of my tires to the wheel wells on each axel of my F-250 to properly judge when I've achieved weight transfer to the front axle of the truck, but I was curious as to where that might be in terms of tightening the jacks.

Thanks in advance,
Gayland Stephens
__________________
GStephens is offline  
Old 12-22-2006, 09:48 AM   #120
Rivet Master
 
2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 822
Images: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by GStephens
Second, my installation guide refers to marks on the lower ends of the jacks that one uses to make certain that each jack is adjusted the same in order that the load bars are equally tensioned. I can neither see nor feel these marks. I had a younger friend look at and feel for the marks. He couldn't find them either. We checked both the inside and outside surfaces thinking that I might have mounted the jacks incorrectly. Nothing. Short of the existance of any marks, I counted the number of complete turns in each jack's adjustment apparatus. There are 50 complete 360 degree turns on each jack. Given that, about how many turns do you typically tighten your jacks. I am just curious. I realize that I'll need to measure the distance from the top of my tires to the wheel wells on each axel of my F-250 to properly judge when I've achieved weight transfer to the front axle of the truck, but I was curious as to where that might be in terms of tightening the jacks.
gstephens----if you would like I can go out to my ha and measure from the bottom of the jacks up and give you the 3 distances so you can paint these reference marks on the tubes. I'm sure counting the turns would be accurate, maybe even more than the marks. The only thing about counting is remembering how many turns etc. send me a pm if you need the measurements---pieman
__________________
Mike Lewis is offline  
Old 12-22-2006, 11:39 AM   #121
_
 
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
hi gayland...

1st issue...
-reads like you've done the strut bars correctly. but don't over tighten...just 'firm.
-then pull your rig onto a flat or slightly uphill surface...
-the 2 reflective tape pieces should line up, suggesting a 'centered' position.

-check the struts again and tighten as needed, just to the 'firm' level.

-IF you over tighten either side this will change alignment, requireing you to retighten the other side...

i over did mine and had to back'em off and start over...stopping at 'just firm'...so don't over muscle them...

2nd issue...
-look in your manual on page 12-15, there are photos of the jack assembly...

-that show the 'indicator marks' on the lower end...and really these are pressed indentations....

-also post #97 in this thread has a picture...click it; enlarge the photo and the marks/indentations are visible.

i use a power drill to wind 'em up/down so i don't know how many turns...

-and i think pieman is right, the better way to measure is from the spring bar link (the holes at the bottom)...

-so, completely unwind the jacks and add measured marks from the bottom up using the hole as reference....

BUT HONESTLY, DON'T SETTLE FOR HOME MADE MARKS!

-it reads to me like your jack assemblies were mis-assembled...

-call the factory. ask them to send you a new set correctly assembled....

-tensioning the spring bars evenly is too important for guess work...you PAID for a proper setup....

-have you got a photo you can post? pictures here are always helpful.

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 08:15 AM   #122
GStephens
 
GStephens's Avatar
 
1982 31' Limited
1953 25' Cruiser
Hamilton , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 563
Images: 15
2AIR, do you have any photographs or measurements of the modification you made to your Ekay Rock Tamer hub in order that it will mount on your Hensley stinger? I have searched and seached this site and have came up with only one thread that discussed this issue, yet I remember reading several others. The thread I found referenced these photos on another site: dmaxfox's photos and albums on webshots. I remember reading other threads including one concerning the availability of a longer stinger from Hensley which would allow for use of an unmodified hub with the Hensley. I would rather modify my hub than order another stinger. I would like for these modifications however, to be as minimal and as professionally done as possible. Thanks in advance.
GStephens
__________________
GStephens is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 11:45 AM   #123
_
 
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
hi gstephens...

i went with the longer stinger, so the enkays are unmodified...

except for a buff and polish!

davidz71 had a machinist route out 1/2 inch from the center piece.
apparently this made for a perfect fit....

here is a link to his pictures...

http://www.airforums.com/forum...42-post13.html

another view...

http://www.airforums.com/forum...44-post14.html

and you can click in the upper right corner for the full thread.

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline  
Old 12-27-2006, 05:18 PM   #124
GStephens
 
GStephens's Avatar
 
1982 31' Limited
1953 25' Cruiser
Hamilton , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 563
Images: 15
Many thanks. This is the thread I remember. I wish I knew why I couldn't get it to surface in the search. Oh well! Thanks again.
GStephens
__________________
GStephens is offline  
Old 12-28-2006, 07:51 PM   #125
Rivet Master
 
2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 822
Images: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by GStephens
2AIR, do you have any photographs or measurements of the modification you made to your Ekay Rock Tamer hub in order that it will mount on your Hensley stinger? I have searched and seached this site and have came up with only one thread that discussed this issue, yet I remember reading several others. The thread I found referenced these photos on another site: dmaxfox's photos and albums on webshots. I remember reading other threads including one concerning the availability of a longer stinger from Hensley which would allow for use of an unmodified hub with the Hensley. I would rather modify my hub than order another stinger. I would like for these modifications however, to be as minimal and as professionally done as possible. Thanks in advance.
GStephens
GStephens---I had to modify my Enkay bracket to fit the shank that came with my haha. Actually a good rough file will do the job. I happen to have access to a die grinder which made the process go faster but was not necessary. . in a nut shell I put the bracket on the shank loosely and slide the shank in place. The pin wouldn't go through the hole in the reciever as the Enkay bracket kept it from sliding in far enough , probablly less than an 1/8th inch. You can see where the Enkay bracket hits the shank at it's weld. It's just a matter of relieveing it where it's holding the shank from going in the last little bite. I didn't have to grind enough off it to weaken it. Pretty simple --just a little trial and error. ----pieman
__________________
Mike Lewis is offline  
Old 01-05-2007, 02:43 PM   #126
3 Rivet Member
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Lake Forest , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 184
I finally had my haha installed by an airstream dealer in Arizona. I simply wasn'tcomfortable doing it myself.I towed for about an hour and tentatively I do see a significant improvement. Even the technician who did the installation and drove my vehicle had the same impression. My previous hitch, Blue Ox, was inadequate and in my opinion unsafe. I am very disappointed my dealer recommended it to me when I purchased my new AS. The haha did present some difficulty during the time I backed into my storage space. Perhaps it will take some time. I also have learning curve with the haha and I am hoping it will perform as advertised. If I had to use the older hitch I would sell my AS as I am convinced it was unsafe given my experience driving from Illinois to Arizona. I will be back to you in a month or so with my experience with the haha and I am certain I will be calling on the Forum for some help and tips.
__________________

__________________
woodedareas is offline  
Closed Thread


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1961 - 1963 Bambi Serial Number Guide Andy R 1961 - 1963 Bambi 51 03-18-2016 02:21 PM
The ultimate disaster - Airstream rollover ipso_facto On The Road... 44 05-07-2003 01:01 AM
Price guide for site? ViewRVs General Motorhome Topics 7 01-05-2003 12:06 AM
Vortec 8.1ltr Krazykraut Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 13 10-20-2002 06:53 AM
Ford Windstar Gordon Watt Tow Vehicles 61 08-23-2002 09:33 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.