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Old 11-29-2006, 11:45 AM   #99
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hi brow324

we'd ALL like a chance to look at your set up...

there is forum user guide for photos but i'll take a stab, basically....

1. type your message
2. scroll down past the message box to 'additional options'
3. click 'manage attachments' and follow the steps, which are....
4. click 'choose photo' or 'browse'
5. locate photo source on your computer (desktop or a folder)
6. click on the photo file and 'open' or 'choose' it, then click 'upload'
7. wait while it uploads...
8. then go back and click the 'submit reply' button as usual when a message is ready to post....

the photos need to be less than 1000x1000 bits and under 300kb file size. IF too large the upload process will abort.

hope this helps...

2air'
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:26 PM   #100
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Bent Strut

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
i've had + and - experiences with customer support....

mostly + and i'll outline some of each another time...

it is an important topic for us and i encourage others to report here...

the specifics.

what was the issue and how did haha central help, or not.

details of the issue and resolution are more useful than

'they are great' or 'they are awful'
2air'
I bent a strut on my Hensley last weekend while making too tight a turn while backing up. I didn't think this was possible. It didn't seem to affect the towing that I could tell, although I did have to tight the strut on the opposite side compenste for the bent strut.

First thing Monday morning I emailed Hensley to tell them I bent a strut (not how) and needed a replacement. Within two hours, I had a return email with directions on how to proceed. They said that it is not uncommon to bend a strut, and it usually occurs from them being loose or from too tight a turn.

They are replacing the strut on warranty. Here is the deal... They charge my credit card $85+shipping for the part. They ship the part to me and provide me with packaging for the damaged part. I package the damaged part and ship it back to them, and they credit me back the $85. I pay shipping both ways. Sounds fair to me as I was expecting to have to pay for the part.

The strut has been shipped and will be at my door by the end of this week, in time for me to install it over the weekend. I'm happy
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:56 PM   #101
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hi slowolf

thanks for such a descriptive report.

and for using this thread!

have you taken any photos of the bent strut? where is the bend?

i would also inspect closely the retention pins at each end and consider replacement...

is that part of the shipment? if not these are readily available at hardware or farm supply stores.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-01-2006, 02:23 PM   #102
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someone sent me a note....

asking for clarification...

about how a hensley 'bends'

here is my simple understanding...

when the tv turns, the 4 bar connection collapses inward...

this can only happen with turns initiated from the front...

trying to 'move' the rear end of the trailer cannot initiate a bend at the hitch....without breaking something.

this is a big factor/feature in "no sway"

here are some pictures of the links in action....

at the oregon rally druppy took video of this, but i can't upload video here....

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-01-2006, 11:43 PM   #103
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2air---as promised here is my haha experience. mine came in 3 boxes, 2 of which had tape that said the box weighed over 80 lbs. This was the only thing that gave me any trouble.{ the weight}
Pre-INSTALLATION---I'm a retired mechanic so keep that in mind when i describe the degree of difficulty. Also i had down loaded the instruction book from hensleys webb site and studyed it thoroughly before recieving my hitch. I recomend this.
INSTALLATION --- I followed the instructions to the letter except for one item, that being the drilling of the holes for the 2 bolts on each side that go throught the frame brackets. I waited untill I had the entire thing assembled before drilling, but before any weight was placed on it. I wanted to be sure they were in the correct location before drilling. The instructions give you measurements which I used but waited for the drilling until I was sure everything was mounted correctly. I recomend using a drill stop when drilling so the bit does not enter the frame. The road side frame rail has the wireing harness running through it. If the drill should hit the harness it would be a chore to make that repair. I also drilled a smaller pilot hole before using the drill bit they furnished.
HOOKING UP---After assembly and connected to the tow vehicle i loaded the bars and noted how much tension was needed on the bars to level the trailer. This was the first mark on the legs of the jacks on our 30' Classic. The instructions are clear on this matter. Next i unloaded the spring bars and disconnected and pulled away followed by backing into the hitch and reconnecting folowing the instructions. This was very easy as the level of both vehicles remained the same.
ROAD TEST--- Today I backed up to the trailer and with wifes help backed into the hitch connected and drove away. ---I drove about 50 miles mixing the road types , 2 lane, 4 lane, up and down hills, fast and slow. I only had one large truck pass during this test.
RESULTS---I am very pleased !!! to say the least. The one truck that passed made no effect on my vehicles. 0 sway or push from it. The first thing I noticed was the way the trailer followed through turns at road speed. Before it always felt like the trailer was pushing the rear of the truck sidways when entering a turn at speed. It actually fells like the trailer is steering in the direction of the turn now.
Summary---The trailer was empty, no water etc during the road test and it was only slightly breezy.
I only had the one truck passing to see how they effect it.
Hitching was done on mostly level ground.
I had to modify the Enkay Rock guards slightly to get tem to work, this was minor.
Over all the installation took less time than getting my tools together and removing the Reese Dual Cam system i had.
Unless I'm later surprised I don't think the hitching will be any more difficult that a conventional hitch except maybe on some uneven conditions.
I'll add more info as i use the system or if any problems should arise.
Pieman
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Old 12-02-2006, 03:17 PM   #104
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Now that my Haha is ordered I received a call asking mr to measure the distance from the ground to the top of the inside of my hitch. I was impressed with the follow up so hopefully we will be receiving thr correct hitch components. I actually ordered the Haha from an As dealer who will install it under my supervision and all delt directly with hensely. I will report after it is installed at the end of the month.
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Old 12-02-2006, 04:04 PM   #105
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Thanks 2air: here are the two photos I took before we left for NC last week.
Typo White out markers added to the spring bar jack sleeves for quick reference on the road. I dialed it down to #2 after a few hundred miles which made for a smooth ride. That's an 8" drop on the hitch bar.
I'm also going to raise the rear strut links to the middle position for my upcoming trip to San Antonio.
The system worked perfectly though...2500 miles over the past 7 days without issue.
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Old 12-02-2006, 05:42 PM   #106
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good report pieman on the install...

look forward to more road reports, as the miles are added.

and i'm glad woodedareas has worked out the drop bar issue.
it will be interesting to read how the install goes and more importantly...

how the 'towing experience' compares to your previous (unhappy) report with another hitch brand...

brow324...

good pictures! glad you figured out how to post'em.

the 'white marker' is a good idea.

8 inch drop? wow! that 4x4 is a hiboy...

2 observations...
-i don't see any grease oozing from the spring bar heads
- the hitch pins (hair, spring, cotter) on the strut bars and jacks...
i usually put 'em on the inside and push ALL the way into the 'loop' away from curious fingers, like your front pin....
some folks replace them with a more permanent pin but at least push them on farther...

glad to read your towing is pleasant...

the manual is pretty vague about hole position for the struts, mine are in the 3rd hole too...

anyone else have an opinion?

cheers all
2air'
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Old 12-02-2006, 05:52 PM   #107
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When I was on the phone with Hensley they said they thought I needed a 6" drop, based on the measurement of the top of my reciever tube from the concrete, but they sent me the 8" drop. I asked Jarrod once I had the install done and after more measurements he said the 8" should be right for my truck. All I can say is..it works. It's a 2500HD (2wd) with 1 ton suspension & oversized wheels/tires so it sits pretty high. My only concern was cranking those spring bars so tight...it's a big difference in spring bar tension over my old hitch, which I never really tensioned very tightly. But this setup sure makes a difference out on the road.
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Old 12-02-2006, 06:00 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brow324
It's a 2500HD (2wd) with 1 ton suspension & oversized wheels/tires so it sits pretty high.
ah, that's why...

interesting about the drop measurement...
initially they sent me a 6 inch bar and i wasn't able to level the trailer...ever.

finally got a 4 inch one which was much better....

they don't offer ONE inch increments and really should at this price point.

keep us updated on your towing and travels...

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2006, 11:50 AM   #109
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2air---I didn't mention that I had to change te strut bars to the middle hole also. Started in the lower hole like 324's picture shows. For it to work as designed it must be parallel to the ground with the trailer loaded and level. If is not the tention will not be constant as the trailer pivots up and down on the ball. I found it best to stand away from the trailer to "eyeball" this angle.
pieman
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:07 PM   #110
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woodedareas.......

has a question about wrenches for the haha....

first the 'over center latch' wrench comes with the hitch...

or an adjustable 'crescent' style wrench can be used....

a racheting wrench for raising and lower the jacks also comes with the haha...

it's manual, so i use a cordless drill with a bit and proper sized socket...

7/8s as i recall...

the cordless is MUCH quicker for adjusting the w/d bars and hitch position at hookup...

for installing the hitch and applying proper torque to the u bracket bolts...

a common long or short 10-150 ft/lbs torque wrench is used...

this is not supplied with the haha...

the haha owners manual is online at the hitch web site...

there is picture with all of the parts shipped with the haha....on page 7

page 7 also lists all the tools required for installation....

i've also linked a pdf version here earlier in this thread, see post 7 for the link...

that's why this IS the ultimate haha users guide...

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-08-2006, 12:01 PM   #111
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What would I do without you folks.My masters degree didn't prepare me for a Ha ha.
Thanks so much, I think you should publish all of this valuable data
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Old 12-08-2006, 08:02 PM   #112
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Sent off my check for a Hensley Arrow today.
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