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Old 11-21-2006, 09:11 AM   #71
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I did not grease the hitch bar at first. Not doing so extended my learning curve as the unit would sometimes move sideways on me when not perfectly lined up. I decided to try some grease on the hitch bar, and I have gotten hooked up first time, every time since (about 25 hook-ups). Granted, it's messy, but it sure does work. I use the same grease that I put into the Hensley's zerk fittings.
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Old 11-21-2006, 09:24 AM   #72
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2air, Great paint job. I plan to disassemble mine this winter and paint it the same color. For three thousand dollars the paint job is awful. Mine was showing rust just days after it was installed. Hensley should be ashamed of such a poor paint job, or maybe just add to the first instruction page " painting required".
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Old 11-21-2006, 10:32 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappy
I don't grease the bar on the Hensley am I suppose to?
Other than a little silicone spray on the wedge portion to faciliate hooking up from time to time.Pappy
hi pappy and welcome to the haha thread...

i don't use lube on my bar either. actually prefer it bone dry.

occasionally spray it with an anti corrosive or ptfe product on the wedged area.

i've met folks who grease 'em, if you are having trouble with hooking up smoothly it can help.

but the grease will attract dirt/debris and is very messy as moosetags reports...

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-21-2006, 01:28 PM   #74
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I keep a pair of old GM tire changing gloves on hand for hitch related stuff...they are washable, tough, and provide a good grip.
(Also a box of disposable latex gloves for the tank flushing chores.)
On greasing the hitch bar -the HA book (page 29) says a coating of oil or grease will make latching and removal of the bar easier. I used the same grease used for greasing the spring bar ends....it's messy but works well. It would be easy to weld a handle to the hitch bar....something to think about!
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Old 11-21-2006, 05:17 PM   #75
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Hensley/electric tongue jack stand

I notice in one of the pictures 2airishuman that you are using the round electric jack stand that airstream provides. If I use that it does not allow me to lower my front enough to level it up in most spots. I just use the hensley
sidewinder device and a board. Just curious?

Pappy
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Old 11-21-2006, 05:52 PM   #76
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We have a 6" drop bar that I keep well greased on both ends. When I pull the pin from it in the truck receiver, I slip a heavy duty trash bag over it so it's totally enclosed as I pull it out, and then I put it in a big, yellow, 26" long Plano 681 toolbox. The tools for hooking up are in that toolbox also, but there isn't room left for the black plastic tray that comes with it. To install it in the truck I just pull back enough of the bag so I can see the truck end, and insert it into the receiver while still in the bag. Slip the bag off it and put it back in the toolbox. The toolbox will fit in the storage area in the back of the Airstream, if necessary, and sure makes carrying the drop bar easier.
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:00 PM   #77
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hi pappy that's interesting....

glad it works for ya...

http://www.hensleymfg.com/hitchelper.htm

i have the hitch helper too...

used it once. no more. would you like another one? any takers?

i understand your comment about getting low enough in some spots....

for my set up i've never needed lower than with the jack fully retracted on the standard stand....

much lower than that and the springbars are on the ground anyway...

for me the sidewiding helper....well wasnt' stable enough...

it is only rated to 2500lbs...

so IF you use your jack to lift the truck rear axle AND trailer tongue, before tightening the spring bars...

it would be easy to exceed 2500lbs...mine started 'bulging' a little ...

also it continued to 'screw' sideways...meaning the trailer moved....

after fully set up...i did not like that!

so anyone else use the hitch helper with their hahas?

i'll make ya a deal on a lightly used one!

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:07 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKingMoe
We have a 6" drop bar that I keep well greased on both ends.
hi roadkingmoe and thanks for joining the haha thread...

your experience is appreciated...

i like the idea of the hard storage box...

but with the enkay mudflaps mounted on the stinger...i'd need a bigger box...

the mudflaps add approx 25lbs so mine tends to remain in the truck receiver...

look forward to your thoughts in the haha zone...

2air'
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:09 AM   #79
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HAHA tip

I had a recent HAHA experience which I think is worth mentioning.

We were on the Road with Lucy and got off the Interstate to take a break. As we came to a stop on the off ramp. Lucy bumped forward hard enough to be felt in the TV. I looked in the rear view mirror and she seemed slightly off center. As I moved forward, she straightened out. When I next stepped on the brake, she slipped to the side again.

Upon inspection, I found that the right side spring bar bracket had slipped to the rear of the yoke about six inches, and the shear bolts had done just that, SHEARED off. This was apparently the cause of the unusual braking behavior.

I readjusted the unit, got new shear bolts and everythig was working fine again.

The next day I called one of the technicians at Hensley and discussed the problem that I had experienced. He told me that the torque on the U bolts that hold the rear spring bar brackets needs to be checked an retightened often. I had not done this and my U bolts had become too loose. The tech told me that a tight turn in a parking lot had probably caused the bracket to slip with sufficient force to cut the shear bolts. He also told me to use only low grade shear bolts so that they will fail before any serious damage is done to the HAHA.

I now have my torque wrench set at 45 foot/pounds and chech the U bolts daily when traveling. I have found on several occasions that tightening was, in fact, necessary. These bolts apparently have a tendancy to loosten.

I realize that everyone else probably already knows this so please excuse my ramblings.
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:21 AM   #80
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2air--my eyes are bugging out!! I've read every word on this thread. Have new haha on order--should be here by monday--reason for purchase,2 fold
{1} I'm a mechanical kinda guy--this thing facinates me--{2} reciently drove 3 days in 35-40 mph with reese dual cam--not bad but annoying wag that kept me on my toes.---one more reason--they were on sale.--will keep you posted on my exper.--pieman
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:29 AM   #81
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Thanks for the bolt info... I will check them before our next trip!!

As far as grease, I spray wd 40 on the hitch side now and then, but I keep the other end dry.

As far as the paint I will have our hitch head sand blasted and repainted silver... I did call Hensley and they will send out new stickers at no cost... The only sticker that they can not replace is the red one with the serial #
They told me to remove the serial number and keep it in my owners manual...
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:29 AM   #82
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Pieman- another tip since you are ordering a new HAHA - if you keep a good coat of car wax on the orange casting, it will stay orange. Otherwise, it will quickly turn pink, and then you can paint it black, or puple, or green...

A HAHA is "supposed" to be orange. It is done that way so that passersby will ask you, "Hey, what the heck is that orange thing hooked to your trailer?"
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:35 AM   #83
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hi moosetags and thanks for the report...

that is interesting info and useful 4 us all....

i visually inspect the u brackets/bolts and shear bolts often.

especially after backing into a spot with tight turns...

i've only tightened mine twice, at the install and after the recent paint job...

the ubolts do have locking washers under them and

IF the nuts are over tightened, these lock washers will expand and fail.

i experience this, when the hitch was installed and i over zealously retightened the u bracket/bolts....duh!

if tighter turns are stressing your u brackets/bolts and shear pins something seems amiss...

since the haha is supposed to allow 85 degrees 2 each side.

it is possible your struts are over tightened on both or either side....

the struts are supposed to be 'firm', a relative term...

early in set up i was 'firming' my struts 2much and 2often...

it was obvious this was wrong but i got into that trap trying to perfectly center the hitch...

after a call to haha land for support i backed the struts off, got 'close' to center and relaxed my definition of firm...

just another variable to consider...

but i fully agree watch the ubolts/nuts and shear bolts and keep them to spec.

if you haven't purchased a 'spare parts' bag, i highly recommend it...

all the nuts, washers, retention pins and even grease zerks are in the bag...

yes one could assemble the same bits at a hardware store but who has?

the shear bolts are properly spec'd too...

cheers
2air'

another thought moosetags...and you've no doubt addressed this issue...

your trailer brakes must initiate braking such that the haha doesn't 'bump' your tv...even a little.

that is one situation where the haha can behave badly.

with our big tv you may not feel the bump, but look in the rear view mirror while applying braking...

if 'lucy' is moving side2side at the front during braking, the trailer brakes need more boost...
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:42 AM   #84
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hi pieman and thanks for joining us!

hope some of the info and links in this thread are useful

i've traveled across my state, named for the 'people of the southwind'...

in breezes approaching 50-60 mph...

semis and 5'ers ahead all 'dog legged' obliquely as they struggle to stay in a lane...

the tv/haha/trailer combo remains absolutely straight....it's uncanny.

only opening a door or window, will reveal just how strong the wind really is...

we look forward to your report on the haha...

and IF you really like d'orange, spray it with a coat or 2 of auto clearcoat....right out of the box

it will stay shiny without waxing...

cheers
2air'
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