Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-07-2009, 10:49 AM   #813
2 Rivet Member
 
rustyrivet's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
Gresham , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhScottyOh View Post
Hi all, most of us have a fixed reciever height, and fixed hitch ball height, right. Hensley offers bars with 2" drop increments. So what is the proper way to determin the combintation of hitch bar and spring bar that will get us the desired result of a level TV and coach?

When my TV is fully loaded with cargo and passengers;
axle load ft 3620, rr 3160, reciever height 17.75"

TV loaded, trailer tongue weight 1100, hitched up but no tension on bars;
ft axle 3160, rr axle 4540, reciever height 13.75

With the added tension of #1000 spring bars with the jacks taken up clear to the stops;
Ft axle 3560, rear 3840, reciever height 15.75
Measurment at front fender was equal to TV and no coach and 1.5" lower at the rear fender.

I took reciever measurements as tension was added;
Spring bar 3rd mark 15", 2nd mark 15.2", third mark 15.5, and as stated, at the stop 15.75.

I am currently using 2" drop hitch bar. As set up and the jacks pulled up to the max coach is slightly lower in the front than back. Being at the max setting leaves no room for minor adjustment.

Thank for all the advice I have recieved so far and for anymore to come. Should you what more pics, I will supply as requested.

Scotty
Just got my used HAHA and am trying to determine the same thing. Mine came with a 2" drop but it appears to need a bit more if the Hensley order form is correct. The measurement to the top inside of theTV receiver is 18 7/8" and the top of the coupler ball is 18". Not sure how much the vehicle will drop as pressure is applied. Sean Woodruff suggested a 4" drop bar. Based on that, if anyone has one, I'm interested. My 2" is in great shape. I have also hit a snag with bracket location. I am running into the propane pipe and must relocate (shorten) it. Pipe appears to be Zurn and I have heard you need a special tool to spread the opening so it will reseal itself. Anyone else had that problem? Also would like to get an idea of how old my HAHA is. The serial # is o4700. Thanks jc
__________________

__________________
rustyrivet is offline  
Old 06-07-2009, 11:27 AM   #814
4 Rivet Member
 
dpandorf's Avatar
 
2000 34' Limited
Somewhere in Western , North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 252
Images: 1
Blog Entries: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Just got my used HAHA and am trying to determine the same thing. Mine came with a 2" drop but it appears to need a bit more if the Hensley order form is correct. The measurement to the top inside of theTV receiver is 18 7/8" and the top of the coupler ball is 18". Not sure how much the vehicle will drop as pressure is applied. Sean Woodruff suggested a 4" drop bar. Based on that, if anyone has one, I'm interested. My 2" is in great shape. I have also hit a snag with bracket location. I am running into the propane pipe and must relocate (shorten) it. Pipe appears to be Zurn and I have heard you need a special tool to spread the opening so it will reseal itself. Anyone else had that problem? Also would like to get an idea of how old my HAHA is. The serial # is o4700. Thanks jc
I had originally bought a 2" drop with my Hensley and was unable to get my weight distribution right. I went with the 4" and now am able to pull the nose of the trailer up enough that I now have my weight equal on both axles.

It does make a big difference in my ride and wear on my truck tires.
__________________

__________________
Duane Pandorf
-----------------
Blog | Google+

Air# 16888 | 2000 34' Limited | 2008 Ford F250
dpandorf is offline  
Old 06-07-2009, 11:48 AM   #815
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,709
When I switched trucks from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton, I found that the drop of the Hensley hitch bar was inadequate for the new truck which is substantially higher, and the trailer was riding quite nose up.

What I did was to hook the truck up with the trailer on level ground, then, using tape measure and a long carpenter's level, I determined the trailer's "nose up angle" by using the blue stripe on the side of the AS as a reference line.

Once I had that info, it was pretty simple geometry to determine how much I had to drop the hitch in order to level the trailer.

That told me that I had to drop the hitch bar another 4". My original bar was a 2" drop, so I needed 6" drop.

When I called Hensley in order to swap hitch bars, they felt I should be ordering a 4" drop bar for my particular truck & trailer combination.

I nervously put faith in my calculations and ordered the 6" drop and thankfully I hadn't screwed up (for once!) as the trailer now rides perfectly level!

With respect to the propane piping, your arrangement may differ from what I encountered when I installed the Hensley, but for what it may be worth, here is what I encountered.

My propane system used a a 5/8" soft copper tube running exposed under the trailer to feed smaller lines running to the various appliances.

It runs up to the front of the trailer under one side of the tongue "A" frame. At that point, there is a union connecting the copper tube to the rubber hose that runs up to the bottle regulator.

The copper tube was secured under the trailer and up under the A frame with pipe clips that were pop riveted.

My problem was that the copper tubing location prevented me from installing the two Hensley U-bolts on that side of the frame. ( no space to install the flat bar that is part of the U bolt arrangement and must be tight under the A frame member).

All I did was to remove a couple of the pipe clips to allow the copper tube to sag down allowing me to install the U bolt plates.

I then cheated a bit and just secured the tubing back up by using nylon zip ties around the tube and around the the U bolts.

I did wrap the copper tube with several layers of that self-vulcanizing rubber tape to give it protection where it is pulled up against the U bolt plate.

It seems to be working fine.

Hope some of this may help!

Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline  
Old 06-08-2009, 08:30 AM   #816
2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
Hensley Ron's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Oxford , Michigan
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 95
When you guys do your own measurements, be sure to take the truck "sag" into account. It's not an exact science, as you can see. I normally take the difference and subtract 2". Of course, that can vary with the tow vehicle. My own truck drops over 3". Even if you have a used Arrow and no warranty, we're always happy to help with measurements.
__________________
Ron Estrada
Hensley Mfg., Inc.
www.NoSway.com
Hensley Ron is offline  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:24 PM   #817
2 Rivet Member
 
rustyrivet's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
Gresham , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
When I switched trucks from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton, I found that the drop of the Hensley hitch bar was inadequate for the new truck which is substantially higher, and the trailer was riding quite nose up.

What I did was to hook the truck up with the trailer on level ground, then, using tape measure and a long carpenter's level, I determined the trailer's "nose up angle" by using the blue stripe on the side of the AS as a reference line.

Once I had that info, it was pretty simple geometry to determine how much I had to drop the hitch in order to level the trailer.

That told me that I had to drop the hitch bar another 4". My original bar was a 2" drop, so I needed 6" drop.

When I called Hensley in order to swap hitch bars, they felt I should be ordering a 4" drop bar for my particular truck & trailer combination.

I nervously put faith in my calculations and ordered the 6" drop and thankfully I hadn't screwed up (for once!) as the trailer now rides perfectly level!

With respect to the propane piping, your arrangement may differ from what I encountered when I installed the Hensley, but for what it may be worth, here is what I encountered.

My propane system used a a 5/8" soft copper tube running exposed under the trailer to feed smaller lines running to the various appliances.

It runs up to the front of the trailer under one side of the tongue "A" frame. At that point, there is a union connecting the copper tube to the rubber hose that runs up to the bottle regulator.

The copper tube was secured under the trailer and up under the A frame with pipe clips that were pop riveted.

My problem was that the copper tubing location prevented me from installing the two Hensley U-bolts on that side of the frame. ( no space to install the flat bar that is part of the U bolt arrangement and must be tight under the A frame member).

All I did was to remove a couple of the pipe clips to allow the copper tube to sag down allowing me to install the U bolt plates.

I then cheated a bit and just secured the tubing back up by using nylon zip ties around the tube and around the the U bolts.

I did wrap the copper tube with several layers of that self-vulcanizing rubber tape to give it protection where it is pulled up against the U bolt plate.

It seems to be working fine.

Hope some of this may help!

Brian.
Brian, sounds like your copper pipe problem is the same as the one I am encountering with the Zurn Pex, just a different material. I was thinking I needed to cut the pipe and put a new brass fitting on but I may be able to handle it the same way you did. I wasn't sure how flexible the Pex material was. I think I will call Hensley tomorrow and see what they recommend on the stinger. Haven't gotten the Hensley installed yet so I haven't hooked up with the 2" drop but simple math tells me I need to be down in the 4" to 6" area. I'm fairly sure the truck won't drop 4 inches. Thanks for the help. Jim
__________________
rustyrivet is offline  
Old 07-12-2009, 09:56 PM   #818
2 Rivet Member
 
rustyrivet's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
Gresham , Oregon
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 73
I have now hooked up the Hensley and things appear to be pretty level. I went to the local scales to measure tongue weight and axle weights and was able to shift the axle weight to the tv without any real problem with each axle on the tv at about 3300 lbs of weight. This leaves the nose of the trailer just a bit high but I guess I would rather balance the weight than have the trailer perfectly level. Any opinions would be appreciated. Is it better to have the nose a little high (maybe an inch) on the trailer and the weight balanced or perhaps a little more weight on the rear of the tow vehicle and the trailer more level? As a novice, I'm not sure. We are heading to California this week and should have a better idea of how things are working. This will be about a thousand mile trip and our longest to date. We get a little better each trip. jc
__________________
rustyrivet is offline  
Old 07-12-2009, 10:09 PM   #819
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Thumbs up Level please


I like to see the trailer as level as possible to distribute the weight evenly to the trailer axles. If absolutely necessary...better the front an inch or so low.

Proper tongue weight is very important... HowStuffWorks "How Tongue Weight Works".

Here's another good read.....Trailer Loading and Towing Guide

Finally broke down and got the tongue scale this Season, comes in handy when loading for a trip.

Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scales
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PISECO LAKE CAMPING JULY 2008 010.jpg
Views:	189
Size:	304.2 KB
ID:	83834  
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:23 AM   #820
Rivet Master
 
Dwight's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Joshua , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 548
Images: 2
I am beginning to notice a few cracks in the paint around the pivot mount bar that is welded to the mount that the jack assembly rides on. The round bars on both mounts also look like they are drooping down slightly. I thought I had seen this comment on a thread, but couldn't find it.

Anyone else have these problems? The hitch has been on the trailer for about 6-7 years.
__________________
History doesn't repeat itself, people do!
Dwight is offline  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:50 AM   #821
ProPride, Inc.
Commercial Member
 
Sean Woodruff's Avatar
 
Grand Blanc , Michigan
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 618
Send a message via Skype™ to Sean Woodruff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
I am beginning to notice a few cracks in the paint around the pivot mount bar that is welded to the mount that the jack assembly rides on. The round bars on both mounts also look like they are drooping down slightly. I thought I had seen this comment on a thread, but couldn't find it.

Anyone else have these problems? The hitch has been on the trailer for about 6-7 years.

Dwight, that is a known issue with the frame bracket design. You may want to replace them before one of the pins snaps off. If it does, you can use a chain looped up around the frame bracket post until you get a new bracket.
__________________
ProPride Hitch
"The Next Generation in Trailer Sway Elimination"
Grand Blanc, MI
Tu ne cede malis
Sean Woodruff is offline  
Old 07-22-2009, 11:23 AM   #822
2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
Hensley Ron's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Oxford , Michigan
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 95
Dwight, if it's the paint, it's not a problem. Those pins do sometimes bend down with time, but it's rare that they cause a problem. We'll replace any defective part under warranty. Let me know what you want to do. I left you a PM.
__________________
Ron Estrada
Hensley Mfg., Inc.
www.NoSway.com
Hensley Ron is offline  
Old 08-21-2009, 03:24 PM   #823
2 Rivet Member
 
grannyred's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Bowden , West Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
I just returned from a 4 month 9,000 mile road trip and had two safety events happen with the Hensley.

1. Inspection of the hitch revealed that a cotter pin (looks like a hair bobby pin) was missing where the strut bar connects hitch box. The strut pin that goes thru the strut bar was still in place but the cotter pin was missing. I installed a new cotter pin and we headed down the road. That evening I checked the hitch again. I found that the strut pin had rotated 180 degrees to where the open end of the cotter pin was sticking straight up and the cotter pin had rotated 90 degrees. That may be hard to visualize. The cotter pin was no longer against the frame but was out over the end of the strut pin. Looked like I was about to loose another cotter pin.

Luckily, I was in a town that had a Tractor Supply store. I purchased a supply of the old straight cotter pins. You know the ones that you bend or spread apart and replaced all of the cotter pins that were supplied by Hensley.

2. On way to return the trailer to the storage facility, I heard and felt a thump. I was within a half mile of the storage barn and said to myself I will check that out when I arrive at the barn. The spring bar jack had come loose from the frame bracket. The shaft collar was missing (the little thing that looks like a donut). Needless to say, the top of the spring bar jack is missing some metal from the half mile drag. Somewhere along the line the set pin in the shaft collar had worked loose. I know that I had the set screws set pretty tight when I installed the Hensley.

The shaft collar is an odd size (41/64). That is what is stamped on the remaining shaft collar. Why an odd size? Tractor Supply has 5/8 inch shaft collars. John Deere dealer doesn't carry this odd size. Had to sandpaper all the paint off the shaft to get a 5/8 inch shaft collar on.

Moral if there is one. Expect the unexpected. I had gotten complacent by not checking all components of the hitch on a monthly basis. These were two items that I never dreamed that would fail or require maintenance.

Ken
__________________
grannyred is offline  
Old 08-22-2009, 08:31 AM   #824
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Just like Uncle Harold and his Stits Sky Coupe, a walk around is necessary, keep an eye on things, carry tools/parts, follow the maint schedule most problems can be avoided.
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:04 PM   #825
_
 
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
you gotta know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post

ok forum friends, hitch helpers, and towing wanna'bes,

i don't start many theads...

usually when a question develops or a need arrises...
i can search a little and find the answer,
or find a current/past thread where my question fits...

the past few months however, i've been considering a couple of issues...
worthy of new threads.

this is one of them....
hello all users in haha land...

here is the last post for this thread.

i'll try to keep it short

and i will use the 3Ps +1 for a format to organize my thoughts.

purpose, posts, people...

and one more P, product.
_______________

purpose

3 year ago today this thread appeared.

at the time i'd been using the orange blob for a 1.5 years with much satisfaction.

but it seemed that whenever one of US would post a question or comment about the contraption in any of the dozens of hitch threads...

we'd get beat on and ridiculed by forum folks who'd never used one and maybe never even seen one.

often a simple question would escalate to silly wild vitriol from NON users.

this struck me as peculiar.

and i pondered the situation 4 a while...

the users guide was conceived and started with the singular purpose of HELPING folks who needed help with the orange lump of iron.

i hoped (and posted early) that NONE of the arguments or antagonists would muck it up and to my surprise they haven't.

for 3 years and over 800 posts.

i am still amazed at that and i am grateful we've been able to stick to the original goals.

it was never my intent to HELP the sell products, and never ONCE have i asked for ANY consideration from the manufacturer.

but over time i've sensed that maybe 1 or 2 folks went for the haha as a result of this thread and the support of other users...

and for certain we've solved MANY of our frustrations related to this gizmo.
______________________

posts

it is extremely rare for any one thread here to STICK to the topic.

but >95% of our posts HERE have done just that.

along with the consistency the QUALITY of postings into this thread have been exceptional.

fitting, installation, operation, hookups, maintenance, repairs, BROKEN bits, rebuilds, improvements, accessories

and other primarily USER issues have remained the focus...

the information and photos on these topics are the BEST i've seen ANYWHERE on the web.

in particular the REBUILD and install posts with photos are exceptionally useful.

while the factory manual is pretty good, NOTHING produced by a handful of company folks can compete with the COLLECTIVE...

and the collective info in this users guide is better than any other printed or web based references i've seen on the haha...

i sincerely appreciate the EFFORT and EXPERTISE from each of the contributors...

the other amazing thing is that the QUESTIONS from new or old users have been really good too.

i've not seen ONE dumb question in this thread and NONE that are so repetitive to suggest the poster isn't READING first, before asking.

for several HUNDRED posts only average users posted here.

then a vendor or 2 joined in, this often means trouble...

but almost all of the posts have remained above board, which again is very unusual once the vendors find a thread.

another surprising thing, almost all of the links posted early (3 years ago) STILL WORK

how is that even possible on the web?

______________________________

people

never in the wildest dreams did i imagine SO MANY folks would join in to contribute.

i knew there were a lot of haha owners with streams,, but had NO idea how many would find THIS SPOT useful...

the large number of folks who have made this thread worthy is something special.

just click on the LIST of posters for a runny list of the cast...

i extend a sincere THANK YOU to each of you haha users who have posted.

the PEOPLE who have POSTED and then COMEBACK to help others on all the issues large or small is really WHY this thread has been so useful.

so again i thank each and every one of you who have taken time to post or help other users here.

it has also be fantastic to have a former company guy HELP us here and without a lot of drama.

the PEOPLE define a forum and this thread has had top notch people all along the way.

_______________________________

50,000 + viewings and more to come...

ALL major threads eventually run their useful course with regard to DEPOSITS into the thread.

and most popular threads get way too long.

many threads become LESS useful as they grow, with incomplete or incorrect answers eventually replacing the good stuff.

it's hard for me to imagine many issues related to this product that haven't been touched on already here.

if one looks objectively at the posting, the last year has been pretty slow in terms of STUFF related to using this hitch.

that means a newbie, looking for help will likely find it covered and without going must past the first 700-800 posts...

so by closing this thread now, FUTURE readers and users can come back often to READ the good stuff.

folks who need a picture to understand hookups or install or maintenance will be able to find it RIGHT HERE.

at one time some of us had the idea to CONDENSE the thread, remove the occasional off topic picture or post and otherwise streamline.

the problem with that notion is NO ONE really likes having a post deleted, even useless ones.

and many of the good answers refer NUMERICALLY to early posts or pics, so deletions would requre EDITING lots of posts to update the numbers...

there are MANY other threads on this product and no doubt there will me more as questions or issues warrant.

__________________________

the last P is the product.

users come in all flavors and the trailers/tv combos from every imaginable combo...

but within that spectrum and diversity are some common themes related to the hitch apparatus...

1. it works has described.
2. the orange coating is TOTALLY CRAP!
3. the towing experience is better WITH a haha than without it, among USERS...

for me it was initially expensive, but relative to the money spent on the new truck/trailer, not totally out of line.

for me, COMPANY product support was excellent for 60 days (the return period), ok for the first year and PAINFUL to the point of frustration and anger the last 2 years.

that can remain a topic for fireside chats.

in spite of the so called "lifetime warranty" , i've spent more on maintenance, paint, wear issues, and replacement parts...

than MOST people spend on their entire HITCH assembly.

it is true i've towed 70,000 miles these last 4 year too.

and most of the HIGH MILEAGE users i know have had to RE weld parts or TOTALLY REPLACE major sections, due to cracks, broken welds, or metal fatigue.

the shipping alone for these "lifetime warranty' bits runs 100s of dollars to the owners....

early in this thread and through out it, i've tried to consistently relate the GOOD and BAD of ownership, i think every USER in this thread has done that.

early (the first 100 posts) i described the repainting, and others also posted their UPGRADING diy paint jobs...

mine was painted primarily OVER the original orange poorly cured powder coat.

it's not my intent to debate this issue or have a vendor dispute but those are the facts.

this hitch originally cost as much as a great bicycle and more than some cars...

i would NOT tolerate paint failure on a bike or car in 1-3 years and won't tolerate it on a chunk of towing iron either.

attached are some pictures,

and the a/s tongue area is included since it has the SAME gray paint but over a reliable foundation...

the blank orange/rust area on the hitch is where the original serial number/label lived...

apparently IF that falls off or is lost so is the warranty.
_________________________

it's not my intention to have this thread become a cesspool of vendor disputes, accusations and counter attacks.

but i also feel an obligation to anyone READING here who may be considering a purchase...

there are OTHER worthy options now, perhaps even IMPROVED less expensive options.

so do your homework before spending the cash!
_________________________

lastly i've appreciated the moderators who have almost entirely stayed OUT of this thread...

i'm pretty sure there have been almost NO deleted posts and ZERO warnings to "play well"...

that is another thing which isn't common in hitch, tire, axle threads.

so again and finally we all should take satisfaction in just how much useful stuff we've laid down in...

the ultimate haha users guide.

anyway it's now time to put her 2 bed, good nite and safe towing.

2air'
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rustyhaha1.jpg
Views:	258
Size:	832.7 KB
ID:	87257   Click image for larger version

Name:	rustyhaha3.jpg
Views:	260
Size:	570.3 KB
ID:	87258  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rustyhaha6.jpg
Views:	259
Size:	592.1 KB
ID:	87259  
__________________

__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline  
Closed Thread


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1961 - 1963 Bambi Serial Number Guide Andy R 1961 - 1963 Bambi 51 03-18-2016 02:21 PM
The ultimate disaster - Airstream rollover ipso_facto On The Road... 44 05-07-2003 01:01 AM
Price guide for site? ViewRVs General Motorhome Topics 7 01-05-2003 12:06 AM
Vortec 8.1ltr Krazykraut Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 13 10-20-2002 06:53 AM
Ford Windstar Gordon Watt Tow Vehicles 61 08-23-2002 09:33 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.