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Old 05-06-2009, 12:41 PM   #799
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Reset the weight bars?

After fueling?

Mike,
I've never seen the need to do that. No changes noticed after adding 12 - 13 gallons of diesel (maybe due to our trucks massive rear suspension and the way I tighten down the Hensley). Am I missing something critical?

-Ken
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:48 PM   #800
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That's a very nice mod, Mike. Well done!
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:01 AM   #801
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Ken,

I checked my marks each time I stopped for whatever. They would unwind, so I put a stop to it. My TV is a 1993 Suburban 3/4T with a BBC on prozac, it likes gas, it hauls a$$ as needed. Maybe that's why they unwind.

Sean,
Thank you....
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:13 PM   #802
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Removing Grease Gun Fitting from Zerk

When using my grease gun I have had some difficulty freeing the grease fitting at the end of the short hose from the Zerk. I don't suppose that I am the only one this has happened to and wonder what others have done to break the connection?

I have gotten it loose by twisting and "bending" the connector, and have read the following: " The trick is to ROLL or ROTATE it off of the fitting, this way the "ears" in the tip of the gun are pushed back"

Does anyone have another idea?

SRW
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:28 PM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW View Post
When using my grease gun I have had some difficulty freeing the grease fitting at the end of the short hose from the Zerk. I don't suppose that I am the only one this has happened to and wonder what others have done to break the connection?

I have gotten it loose by twisting and "bending" the connector, and have read the following: " The trick is to ROLL or ROTATE it off of the fitting, this way the "ears" in the tip of the gun are pushed back"

Does anyone have another idea?

SRW
Hi, SRW. On some grease guns where the coupler fits the zerk fitting, there are adjustable jaws. By turning the end, sort-of like a drill chuck, you can make it tighter or looser.
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:33 AM   #804
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Question

They souldn't un-wind by themselves.....right?
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:28 PM   #805
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Great Idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, SRW. On some grease guns where the coupler fits the zerk fitting, there are adjustable jaws. By turning the end, sort-of like a drill chuck, you can make it tighter or looser.
Robert:

Adjustable jaws, what a great idea, but so far I have not been able to locate a supplier.

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Old 05-21-2009, 12:27 PM   #806
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Back from Myrtle Beach...........

Bob,

They would unwind, as the load changes from say a bridge approach, they are all so smooth, the tension on the nut would lighten then increase which would cause it to back off a little, IMO.

The 5/16" bolts were to close a fit as the centerline of the screw changes so I went to these 1/4" snap pins that work really well.



Then if you look back from an eariler post I wasn't happy with the attachment of the jack to the head of the HAHA. Here is a pic of my heim joint replacement.



Then you know unhitching can be a pain. Getting the friction of the stinger to the HAHA to break can be a job. You know make sure the trailer is blocked good, yada yada. Well with the proper application of force it is very easy. I use this small pipe jack. With very little effort, while holding the bolt and turning the nut to make the thing longer it breaks that friction grip all so easy. I have my Wife pull up a little and jack the trailer the stinger slides right out of the HAHA. I also have the weight bars loose befor removing the stinger.




Now, while sitting on the picnic table in Myrtle and looking at the HAHA I came up with this and had to wait to get home to do it. I can't stand to think of it, the HAHA, sitting out there in the weather. On a trip is one thing, but sitting at home, something had to be done. I mean six pins and two lock collars, the weight bars and its off. But the real deal is lifting the monster. I paid for a few days the last time I did it, so..........................

I had this old frame from a tool box.....



A little something to hold the stinger, and thats it.



Mike
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:40 PM   #807
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Question Lubing the Hitch Ball

Its been 1 1/2 years since the hitch ball was last lubed and I plan on lubing it tomorrow. I am not hearing alarming noise, but its time.

I understand the process is to first hook up, disconnect the struts, unlatch the lock assembly at the hitch ball, and then jack AS until it clears the ball.

My question is what is the best way to unhook the struts?

Do I pull the pin nearest the AS or the one at the front nearest the truck?

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Old 05-25-2009, 06:57 PM   #808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW View Post
Its been 1 1/2 years since the hitch ball was last lubed and I plan on lubing it tomorrow. I am not hearing alarming noise, but its time.

I understand the process is to first hook up, disconnect the struts, unlatch the lock assembly at the hitch ball, and then jack AS until it clears the ball.

My question is what is the best way to unhook the struts?

Do I pull the pin nearest the AS or the one at the front nearest the truck?

SRW

You shouldn't need to take out either clevis pin to get the coupler up off the ball enough to grease it. Just loosen the strut nuts and raise the coupler up off the ball.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:31 PM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
You shouldn't need to take out either clevis pin to get the coupler up off the ball enough to grease it. Just loosen the strut nuts and raise the coupler up off the ball.
Sean:

Thanks for the information and the quick reply.

SRW
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:27 PM   #810
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Thumbs up Greasing Hitch Ball

The process of greasing the hitch ball went without a hitch.

Sorry, I couldn't resist the very bad pun.

With the hitch bar in the hitch box the truck took the weight of the main hitch assembly, and the AS could be raised using its jack. I had already stuck a couple of extra pieces of wood under the jack stand to be sure I could get enough elevation to clear the ball.

Before raising the AS I loosened both strut assemblies and opened the latch on top of the ball "housing".

When I raised the AS the ball stayed low and there was quickly enough clearance to lube the ball.

Thanks, Sean.

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Old 06-06-2009, 07:40 AM   #811
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Probably a lot of you more experienced HAHA users already know this, but I just thought I would share a tip that Terry from Hensley gave me over the phone.


I had mentioned to him that I now had a few good techniques I had learned that make hooking up much easier and felt I was fairly well up the learning curve now, but that I was still having a minor problem in unhooking the trailer.

My difficulty is that when running the elec. tongue jack up and down, I had difficulty detecting the "neutral point" to unhitch - ie the point where there was now upward or downward loading on the stinger so that it will withdraw easily from the hitch box.

What Terry suggested was to put your thumb at the point where the stinger enters the TV receiver and you can feel slight relative motion just at the point that the stinger comes loose.

I tried it for the first time yesterday.

I couldn't really feel the motion at that point - maybe because my hitch receiver is the larger size and has an added sleeve to bring it down to 2" x 2"

So I wondered about trying the same method where the stinger goes into the hitch box on the HA.

I tried running the jack up and down several times with my thumb right where the tapered portion of the stinger meets the hitch box and indeed I could feel the "sweet spot" where the stinger came loose in the hitch box.

Actually, when I looked very closely, I could even see the slight relative motion.

When I pulled ahead with the truck the separation was perfectly smooth, no attempt to drag the trailer, and no "bang" as the trailer drops down or the truck pops up!

For what it may be worth!

Incidentally, Terry warned me not to get my thumb pinched! I think that really there is little chance of injury using this method, but I pass the warning on so no- one will blame me!

Hope this might help someone.


Brian.


(PS - I am now using a backup camera setup that I made from one of those $69 Costco licence plate frame cameras for hooking up, as well as a set of hitchin' rods that help me quickly to get all the angles right on an unlevel site.

Both seem to be very helpful. The camera allows me to easily hook up single handed.
I cut the camera off the license plate bracket it came with it and mounted it in a small plastic utility box. I power it by two 9v batteries in series with a switch rather than having to hook it up to the TV's electrics.

At first I mounted it on my truck cap's back window with a suction cup, but after it
fell off a couple of times decided to use a magnet mount instead.

With the magnet mount, I sit the camera on top of the stinger - it looks down slightly and can see a great view of the tip of the singer and also the hitch box as I approach.


I've only tried it a couple of times, but it seems very good - easy to line things up withing a couple of millimeters!)
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:36 AM   #812
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Thanx for the tips.

Brian M. (also)
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