Well I finally finished my refurbished HAHA (#2278) that I purchased from Ebay.
I started with this....
I broke the HAHA down and found lots of moisture in the bearings. Let it be known that with a used HAHA you may have to replace the bearings due to pitting. I was able to get by with only replacing one of the el-cheapo Chinese bearings. It literally fell apart in my hand.
Here is the finished product.
Now I need some opinions. Should I use the lower hole for the strut bar....
Or the upper hole for the strut bar....
Here is the tow vehicle and trailer.
The center of the tow vehicle receiver is 14 3/4" (unloaded). "The center of the HAHA receiver is 9 1/2" (trailer level).
I believe I am going to need a 2" drop as the top of the trailer frame measures 15" by the rear bumper and 17" at the propane tank. What do you think?
The tow vehicle was 1/2" low in the rear and 1/2" high in the front.
were there any issues replacing the bearings and firming things up?
how did you decide on tightness, it looks very much like an hub/wheel bearing job, including the hub style cotter pins?
did u disassemble the screw jack barrels too, how'd they look inside? or did u just lube 'em up and paint 'em?
Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy
...Now I need some opinions. Should I use the lower hole for the strut bar...
taken directly from the haha owner manual...
"If your frame bracket has more than one hole available, select the one
which positions the strut closest to parallel with the top of the trailer A-frame. "
so based on the pics, use the lower frame bracket holes (your picture #7) ...
i think this is the correct position for all/most modern 'streams.
as i recall u've got the 'modified' frame bracket/jack mounts mentioned back in post 548/9...
thanks for adding this info!
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
Disassembly and reassembly is very much like a standard wheel bearing job - fairly simple. As far a torquing the spindles/bearings you could "feel" the amount that they needed.
I disassembled the entire unit except for the screw jack barrels. If I remember correctly they bottom out so I could not get them apart. Needless to say I sealed up all entry points and sand blasted everything down. Repainted with a primer/chassis saver epoxy paint and a top coat. Acquired new decals from HA. I purchased the bearing and seals from the local auto parts house.
Strut bars - I measured the height of the holes and when they are in the top position they are within a 1/4" of each other. Approximately 19 1/2" and 19 3/4" from the ground. When I use the lower hole in the bracket I think they vary by 2".
I know you can probably find someplace where I have said the middle hole isn't used on the frame bracket but I think, based on the depth of your frame and where the main unit strut hole is, the middle hole would probably be best for your installation.
And, Robert brings up a good point...
Check that shaft collar in the jack to make sure the set screw is tight. You'll have to look in that hole while you turn the jack top to line it up. Then you can put the allen wrench through the hole. If it becomes loose the jack crew POPS out the top of the jack.
P.S. - I may be a little weird but based on my recent history with the haha company I LOVE the fact that I made post #666 in this thread.
Also note, I didn't mention earlier, that there is also an indent in the threaded rod that you have to line up for the set screw.
Thanks Sean, I should have mentioned that indentation. That's what took the longest, getting that dang collar lined up. Had to get the old head-light out so I could use both hands. Also I considered using thread lock but decided against it, didn't want to pull any threads out if it had to be taken apart again. A real pain in the buttsky.
The refurbished HA looks great. I sure wish I could get by with a straight hitch bar or even a 2" drop bar. The new 8" drop bar that I received from HA seems to do the trick on my 2008 Suburban. But its a monster. What do you do with these things when you are hitched up going down the highway. Even the 2" and 4" drop bars are heavy and cumbersome. I know some leave the hitch bar in the receiver, but for me that would be a broken leg waiting to happen. You can't just throw these things in the back of the truck or on ground either.
So I wanted something that I could store the hitch bar in while I was on a trip and while at storage. I found a Stanley "Fat Max" tool box at Loews that is just about perfect for my 8" bar. I built supports out of scrap 2X6 cut to size and attached them on each end along each side and one in the middle and screwed them to the bottom and sides of the box. I also lined them with rubber sheeting. Now I can lay the bar on its side in the box and it's secure and stays in place. This allows for ample storage of the other hitch tools in the bottom of the box. This box also came with a tray and when I cut a smaal hole out of one end it fits fine and holds other items.
Its heavy, but not from the box or the other items I have so much but from the bar itself, the bar iweighs more than 50 lbs. But with the good sturdy handle and hand holds on each end of the box I can still get it my truck when loaded. You can lock it and it is water tight. All I need to do is paint the top orange and get some HA decals. I am surprised that HA has not introduced a storage/tool box for their drop bars, seems like there would be a market there.
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