the ultimate haha users guide...

[Sean Woodruff]

The level of the trailer is more a function of hitch bar offset than of spring bar tension.

You could just drop/raise the hitch bar a bolt hole or use the tilt adjustment pin with washers to make it right.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

The level of the trailer is more a function of hitch bar offset than of spring bar tension...

as i'm SURE u know...

the above is true when initially selecting a bar, but...

once connected the trailer nose DROPS up to several inches...

depending on the tongue mass, wheel base, payload and tv spring specs and tire pressures.

IF the stinger was adjusted so that the trailer was dead level initially without jack tension,

any w/d force from the spring bars would RAISE the junction ABOVE level...

on these multiaxle trailers tire wear and axle loads vary significantly IF towing an un level trailer...

along with the handling issues of UN-level towing.

for example, now that i've altered the truck rear suspension, a 4 inch bar no longer functions properly....

even though my trailer IS exactly level based solely on the bar drop....

and with any tension rises at the nose.

the front of my trailer moves 1-3.5 inches UP as i tension the spring bars...

and that correction (which varies by t.v.) is part of the set up too...

an adjustable stinger might make getting the initial set up easier for many owners and the hitch makers...

cheers
2air'

[Whizzo]

This past weekend I attended a rally with my old family RV club (no brand affiliation), and the Hensley-Arrow was the star of the show. Every guy from 35-75 was over asking me about this unusual hitch setup. I don't think I've ever talked so much about linkages and torsion bars in my life. Only about half remembered it specifically from ads in Trailer Life, but most just found that big 'ol orange assembly kinda different.

To make it even more entertaining, it was the first time I had ever unhooked with the TV going downhill - actually coming off the level pad. It took a couple of tries to release enough tension to get the stinger moving outward. (Of course, hitching up to leave I had no troubles and no audience!)

I tried to be a good representative, and was quite honest with a couple of folks with one ton diesel duallys, that such a setup was likely more than they needed. But if the company gets any orders from central Missouri soon, I might have helped a little.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

an adjustable stinger might make getting the initial set up easier for many owners and the hitch makers...

Yes, you are spot on here. We have not had one single hitch bar exchange with any of the hitches we have shipped.

[biggiesmooth]

I haven't towed my trailer with the haha for more than 2,000 miles. After about the first 1,000 miles I had to replace both complete zerk assemblies because of the pins wearing off. Today I noticed that one of them has half of the pin worn flat. Am I doing something wrong to cause this? Or is this wear normal. Thanks.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by biggiesmooth

...I noticed that one of them has half of the pin worn flat.
Am I doing something wrong to cause this? Or is this wear normal. Thanks.

hi biggie' and welcome to the forums!

1st post here?

cool!!

the company and owners manual suggests zerk tip wear is common/normal.

IF the spring bars insert properly and REMAIN inside the bushing,

u probably aren't doing anything wrong.

and if JUST the rounded tips are wearing and grease still flows the zerks are ok to keep using

BUT as they wear u may need to tighten them 1/4 turn or so 2 keep the spring bars UP in the bushings...

and IF the spring bars are falling out, or the zerks no longer inject grease...

it's REPLACEMENT TIME!

wanna see some gnarly zerks dude?

check out rich's blog photos here...

Tour of America: Maintenance day #1

or go back to posts ~#140-150 and read our notes on this issue.

post a pic of your rig sometime and again welcome to hahaland and these forums!

cheers
2air'

[94Tri]

Don't want to sound like a paid spokesman, but I love the used haha I recently purchased on Ebay. It is great and made a pull through a severe wind storm last week as "enjoyable" as possible. Go Hensley !!

[biggiesmooth]

2air,

Thanks for the info regarding the wear on the zerk tips. I'll get spare from Hensley to keep on hand.

Biggie

[Hensley Ron]

biggie, if you get the emergency kit, it includes a grease zerk as well as every pin in the hitch and shear bolts.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Hensley Ron

biggie, if you get the emergency kit, it includes a grease zerk as well as every pin in the hitch and shear bolts.

Or, you can have them replaced for FREE under your lifetime warranty (if you are the original owner).

[adonh]

I have changed tow vehicles form a 2004 Suburban with 17" wheels and tires to a 2008 Suburban with 20" wheels and tires. I had the 4"drop bar in the 2004 Suburban but that's not enough with the bigger tires. Here are my measurements from the center of the receiver to the ground on the Suburban its 22 1/2 " on the Hensley receiver its 13" from the center to the ground. I assume I will need the 8" drop?

Thanks Don

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by adonh

Here are my measurements from the center of the receiver to the ground on the Suburban its 22 1/2 " on the Hensley receiver its 13" from the center to the ground. I assume I will need the 8" drop?

Thanks Don

Yes, Don. If the rear of your TV settles 1.5" you will need an 8" offset.

[adonh]

That what I thought. I will call Monday. I am the orginal owner so I can do the exchange.

Thanks

Don

[adonh]

How is the correct way to measure the drop bar. From the top edge to the bottom edge, or from center to center. My current drop bar is 6' from the top edge to the bottom edge and 4" from center to center. Is this a 6" or 4" drop bar.

Now I just need to find the boxes in the attic that thing shipped in. I know I still have them.

Thanks

Don