the ultimate haha users guide...

[millvalleyca]

Thanks Sean
I'll give it a try again in the morning.
So once the box shifts I should not continue pushing because I'm not truly line up? Or are you saying it's because one of the spring bars has tightened up causing the shift.

[whitsend]

Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

Dennis, Once the hitch bar sticks in the hitch box go back to your spring bars to see which one is tightened up. Maybe both. Adjust your jacks until the spring bars are sloppy again and that will adjust the hitch head on the hitch bar. Once they are loose continue to back into the hitch the rest of the way.

Sean - I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH for this post!! I've become almost fairly good at getting the "stinger" into the "hitch's receiver" on the 1st or 2nd try, but I always seem to be off a tad getting the stinger to slide completely in. I won't admit how many times I've jumped in & out of the truck, trying to perfectly align the stinger to the receiever. I also won't admit how many times a good friend had tried to explain all this to me. I sometimes think my mind is slowly turning into crunchy peanut butter.

Thanks again.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

Thanks Sean
I'll give it a try again in the morning.
So once the box shifts I should not continue pushing because I'm not truly line up? Or are you saying it's because one of the spring bars has tightened up causing the shift.

No, the hitch bar is hitting on the inside of the hitch box causing one or both of the spring bars to tighten up. Once you go back the jack and loosen, or tighten, it to get the spring bar back to loose, the hitch head will adjust on the bar.

Originally Posted by whitsend

Sean - I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH for this post!! I've become almost fairly good at getting the "stinger" into the "hitch's receiver" on the 1st or 2nd try, but I always seem to be off a tad getting the stinger to slide completely in. I won't admit how many times I've jumped in & out of the truck, trying to perfectly align the stinger to the receiever. I also won't admit how many times a good friend had tried to explain all this to me. I sometimes think my mind is slowly turning into crunchy peanut butter.

Thanks again.

You're welcome. Glad to help.

[millvalleyca]

Thanks Sean!
Worked like a charm!
We're out camping and enjoying the Memorial Day weekend.
Dennis

[Aage]

2airishuman:

Thanks very much for this thread. I'm only up to page 9, but thought I'd post this to point out that if anyone had any questions about haha, this thread has got it all and then some!

cheers,

Aage Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
still looking...

[grannyred]

I am going to install my haha on Thursday. A friend who has installed 3 hahas on his trailers is going to assist me. His current trailer has a haha and I was looking at the way it was attached and how the safety chains, electric cord, etc were routed on his current set up. I noticed that his safety chains were not crossed but the left chain on the trailer went to the left safety hook on the tv and the right safety chain went to the right safety hook on the right side of the tv. The chains were inside the spring bars. When I questioned him about this set up, he replied that this was the way safety chains are connected between the trailer and the tow vehicle when using the haha. Are the safety chains to be crossed or not crossed?

Thanks
Ken

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by grannyred

...Are the safety chains to be crossed or not crossed?...

hi ken,

lots of install pictures early in this thread AND chain pix too...

#153 and other earlier posts.

crossed, yes

cheers
2air'

[REDNAX]

ASAE ANSI/ASAE S338.5 May 2006
1 Scope

1.1 This Standard covers the specifications for an auxiliary attaching system to retain a connection between towing and towed . . equipment in the event of separation of the primary attaching system long enough to bring the machines to a stop. It should not be construed that this auxiliary system can ensure that control or connection will be maintained in the event of incidents such as loss of control, rollover, jackknife, or collision.

Safety Chains: Must always be cross hooked

Safety chains are a requirement and should be crossed under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated form the hitch. Always leave enough slack so you can turn. Never allow the safety chains to drag on the ground and never attach the chains to the bumper.

Safety Cables versus Chains

[finalcutjoe]

page 19 in the 'installation/operations' manual:

"IMPORTANT the jack MUST have at least 2 holes open. DO NOT pin the spring bar link with only one hole open"

they are refering to the 3 holes at the bottom of the adjustable jack assembly, right?

why are there 3 holes there?

can't I bump that connection with the spring bar up to the top hole, and crank the spring bar up to get MAXIMUM leverage?

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by finalcutjoe

page 19 in the 'installation/operations' manual:

"IMPORTANT the jack MUST have at least 2 holes open. DO NOT pin the spring bar link with only one hole open"

they are refering to the 3 holes at the bottom of the adjustable jack assembly, right?

why are there 3 holes there?

can't I bump that connection with the spring bar up to the top hole, and crank the spring bar up to get MAXIMUM leverage?

The two holes are necessary when you jack the jack all the way up to its maximum. If you have less than two holes, and you jack the jack all the way up, your spring bar u-bracket (the braket attached to the end of the spring bar that the jack pins into) will catch on the bottom of the frame bracket in turns.

[Hensley Ron]

I've actually experimented with that on my own trailer, Joe (33' Sunnybrook, tongue weight about 1200lbs.). It didn't seem to make a difference.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by finalcutjoe

...can't I bump that connection with the spring bar up to the top hole, and crank the spring bar up to get MAXIMUM leverage?

hi fc'

clearly there is a mechanical/clearance issue that has been addressed by sean...

DO NOT USE THE FIRST HOLE or it will rub in turns and backing.

but the bigger issue is WHY r u trying this....

-you do have the 1400 lb bars right?

whatever rated bars u have, the 'useful' flex is just a few inches...

and cranking them beyond that range doesn't offer more leverage.

while they shouldn't break, the added flex doesn't offer anything useful.

with a 30 slide u need the 1400s unless towing with a 1 ton drw...

-what drop shank?

if the shank has too much drop, trying to get 'er up to level with the spring bars isn't wise.

many end up with the wrong drop and try to work around it, usually without success.

-how close to LEVEL is the trailer after hookup/BEFORE jack tension?

-how close to LEVEL is the trailer after hookup/AFTER jack tension?

-once the trailer is LEVEL, what is the burb's attitude (relative to unhooked) at the front/rear?

it is very likely (with that trailer/tv combo) that the burb rear will be LOWER relative to the front...

and MORE BAR TENSION (beyond useful) will NOT solve that issue.

-have u replaced the oem receiver with a CLASS V ???

with your hitch weight a higher capacity reciever is really necessary...

-using 1000lb bars the rear suspension on my 3/4 ton slowly fatigued from towing...

this issue could NOT be solved by more jack tension OR changing holes.

i went UP in bar rating to 1400lbs, added a leaf, and changed stringer drop...

all 3 adjustments were needed to get back to ideal positioning AND measured weight distribution...

-have u weighed the set up? especially axle weights while connected?

-lastly why not POST SOME PICTURES of your combo and the ISSUE that is prompting u to...

use the wrong jack hole...

cheers
2air'

[GStephens]

Is it ever a good idea to use the wrong hole?

[Aage]