Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
...can't I bump that connection with the spring bar up to the top hole, and crank the spring bar up to get MAXIMUM leverage?
clearly there is a mechanical/clearance issue that has been addressed by sean...
DO NOT USE THE FIRST HOLE or it will rub in turns and backing.
but the bigger issue is WHY r u trying this
-you do have the 1400 lb bars
whatever rated bars u have, the 'useful' flex is just a few inches
and cranking them beyond that range doesn't offer more leverage
while they shouldn't break, the added flex doesn't offer anything useful
with a 30 slide u need the 1400s unless towing with a 1 ton drw...
-what drop shank
if the shank has too much drop, trying to get 'er up to level with the spring bars isn't wise.
many end up with the wrong drop
and try to work around it, usually without success.
-how close to LEVEL
is the trailer after hookup/BEFORE
-how close to LEVEL is the trailer after hookup/AFTER jack tension
-once the trailer is LEVEL, what is the burb's attitude
(relative to unhooked) at the front/rear?
it is very likely (with that trailer/tv combo) that the burb rear will be LOWER
relative to the front...
and MORE BAR TENSION (beyond useful) will NOT solve that issue.
-have u replace
d the oem receiver with a CLASS V
with your hitch weight a higher capacity reciever is really necessary...
-using 1000lb bars the rear suspension on my 3/4 ton slowly fatigued from towing...
this issue could NOT be solved by more jack tension OR changing holes.
i went UP in bar rating to 1400lbs, added a leaf, and changed stringer drop...
all 3 adjustments were needed to get back to ideal positioning AND measured weight distribution...
-have u weighed the set up? especially axle weights while connected?
-lastly why not POST SOME PICTURES of your combo and the ISSUE
that is prompting u to...
use the wrong jack hole...