the ultimate haha users guide...

[Tim A.]

Let me clarify a little. The Hensley does not point down because of improperly tightening the spring bars nor is it the "normal" slight downward tilt. The drop of the stinger is approximately correct because when hitched up and with the spring bars properly tightened, the trailer is level. Hitching up is not a problem. We just do the usual stinger-Hensley alignment and everything works as with the former tow vehicle.

The source of the hitch tilt is clear. The rectangular tube or socket of the receiver points down towards the front of the tow vehicle. So much so that the stinger alone shows considerable tilt when inserted into the receiver. The fit of the socket is slightly loose, but not enough to cause the hitch's tilt.

The only solution for the tilted Hensley would be to have a “droop-snooted” stinger. Seeing as how we have had no trouble, trying to have one fabricated is not going to happen.

The purpose of reporting this was our feeling that the HaHa Users Guide should contain all. We are a little surprised, but most pleased, that the tilt has not affected functionality in any way we can determine. A couple of "hail Wallys" probably wouldn't hurt.

[2airishuman]

ah...

now i get it.

so u must be towing with a unibody suv?

was the receiver tilted from day 1 ?

or did this develop over time,

while towing and from the torquing stress of w/d?

all additions to the haha collective are GOOD!

even tilted ones...

cheers
2air'

ok, on edit, i see from your profile the tv and your last post says it has been uneven since new.

now i wonder if all the chrysler/dodge/jeep GC models have sloping receivers...

but that would be the topic for a new thread...

something like "receiver points UP" or "is your receiver on the level?"...

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Tim A.

Let me clarify a little. The Hensley does not point down because of improperly tightening the spring bars nor is it the "normal" slight downward tilt. The drop of the stinger is approximately correct because when hitched up and with the spring bars properly tightened, the trailer is level. Hitching up is not a problem. We just do the usual stinger-Hensley alignment and everything works as with the former tow vehicle.

The source of the hitch tilt is clear. The rectangular tube or socket of the receiver points down towards the front of the tow vehicle. So much so that the stinger alone shows considerable tilt when inserted into the receiver. The fit of the socket is slightly loose, but not enough to cause the hitch's tilt.

The only solution for the tilted Hensley would be to have a “droop-snooted” stinger. Seeing as how we have had no trouble, trying to have one fabricated is not going to happen.

The purpose of reporting this was our feeling that the HaHa Users Guide should contain all. We are a little surprised, but most pleased, that the tilt has not affected functionality in any way we can determine. A couple of "hail Wallys" probably wouldn't hurt.

Tim, I understood that was what was happening with your receiver but I didn't mention it. It was ME who wasn't clear. Sorry about that! There are a lot of receivers out there like yours. That's why the new design has an adjustable bar. The hitch bar can be tilted to be parallel with the ground like it should be.

While my adjustable hitch bar won't fit in an Arrow, who's to say that some innovative company isn't manufacturing one specifically for the Arrow customers?

[USAntigoon]

Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

..................While my adjustable hitch bar won't fit in an Arrow, who's to say that some innovative company isn't manufacturing one specifically for the Arrow customers?

Thanks for the "heads up" on this issue

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by USAntigoon

Thanks for the "heads up" on this issue

No problem. I'm not sure anyone will be able to do it though because the patent has already been submitted, and is pending, for an adjustable bar being used with a convergent linkage hitch. But, there are companies out there that just ignore patents anyway. Not very ethical, but it is done.

[CanyonCrazy]

Hello again.

I recently posted, for the first time, in the new members section and received a lot of very good information which will help us in our upcoming purchase of an Airstream travel trailer.

Now I am starting to look at getting our tow vehicle ready for the task of towing. I've read many, though certainly not all, of the posts in the hitches section of this site and pretty much have decided that a Hensley Arrow (haha) is the way to go, although when I saw the price I almost dropped my beer.

When I was a kid my family had a travel trailer, and once, when rolling down the highway, out of the blue, we had a sway episode that nearly pitched us all into the ditch. My mom freaked out so bad that my dad had no choice but to sell the travel trailer. Even had the Hensley hitch been available at the time it would not have erased the memory of the near-death experience and my mom would have had nothing to do with travel trailers again. I don't want that to happen to me. Besides, travelling should be a pleasant experience, and if there is a product engineered to reduce or eliminate one of the most common and dangerous negatives to towing a travel trailer, then in my mind it is worth the added expense. Besides, I don't currently have a hitch which I've invested money in and will have to worry about taking a loss when I try to sell it. Just pay the money once and forget about it.

I currently have two vehicles which will be able to tow our upcoming travel trailer which will weigh in somewhere between GVW 7000 - 8000 lbs , a K2500 Suburban, and a E 250 Ford Econoline van. The class IV receivers are approximately the same height, so a different tow bar shouldn't be necessary.

Here is my question: Can I, in principle, easily switch between tow vehicles using the same haha set-up, or do I need to duplicate some of the hardware? Also, will there be any adjustment needed to change the location of the 'virtual pivot point' to accommodate the differences between the rear-axle-to-hitch measurements of the two vehicles? Are such adjustments even possible, or is it 'one size fits all' in that regard?

Thanks!

Mark

[2airishuman]

hi 'crazy and welcome to haha land.

there isn't any adjustments to the virtual pivot point that we can make...

the vpp location is a projection forward that results from the trapezoidal link angles,i think;

but keep in mind i'm just a user....

anyway we can't adjust it.

how often do you expect to swap tow vehicles?

really it doesn't matter because the haha remains attached to the trailer!

IF the drop bar/stinger does turn out to work for both van/burboun then the only real adjustment between the two...

will be the amount of tension needed on the spring bars for ideal weight distribution....

go back and look again at some of the photos, and down load the haha owner's manual.

the pictures may help, until you can see one in the flesh...

your goal of relaxed AND safe towing control is exactly why the users are hooked...

i nearly dropped my brew too, till the first trip.

cheers
2air'

you'll need 2 brake controllers or a unit that can be moved between the 2 vehicles,

if you still haven't worked out that issue and find nothing with the 'search' tool, it might be worthy of a new thread!

[Sean Woodruff]

Mark,

2air' is right on about the haha. If your tow vehicle receivers are close to equal in the distance from the ground you won't need any extra equipment. You will adjust the weight distribution jacks differently based on the load capability of the tow vehicle.

[plumbob]

There I was rolling along at about 55 to 60 mph on a two lane road in West Texas heading to Big Bend National Park at night with the high beams on and not a care in the world having just had a great meal. My co-pilot was asleep and we had reservations so I was just enjoying the ride - untill - the Havalina ran out onto the road. Heads up - brakes - swerve did not hit em SWAY (no haha) oh boy where is the TT brake actuater this is way to scary! Found the TT brake, hit it and brought it all back under control. Wow all shook up - at the camp ground there was a mess to clean up as anything that could fly around did and ended up on the floor.

Lesson learned - get a haha - ASAP! Spent the 3K and now feel much safer and as always am on a search for usefull information. In this case I was on the rv.net site and a link brought me here to the "ultimate haha users guide" and after reading it all and trying to digest most of it, great photo's and all I knew I just had to invest the time to thank 2airishuman and others who gave all the time to share with any others like myself.

At the time of the incident I had a Reese straight line hitch which I was feeling OK about as over the course of the 30K miles and reading posts I had learned to give the proper angle to the hitch head and adjust the links and level it all up etc. BUT-at panic time it did not do a thing for the sway situation. Put a couple of hundred miles on the haha and will shove off on a 12 to 15K ride in March so the wear and tear and proper maintenance shown here is very valuable information. Again - my thanks to you all -

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by plumbob

There I was rolling along at about 55 to 60 mph on a two lane road in West Texas heading to Big Bend National Park at night with the high beams on and not a care in the world having just had a great meal. My co-pilot was asleep and we had reservations so I was just enjoying the ride - untill - the Havalina ran out onto the road. Heads up - brakes - swerve did not hit em SWAY (no haha) oh boy where is the TT brake actuater this is way to scary! Found the TT brake, hit it and brought it all back under control. Wow all shook up - at the camp ground there was a mess to clean up as anything that could fly around did and ended up on the floor.

Lesson learned - get a haha - ASAP! Spent the 3K and now feel much safer and as always am on a search for usefull information. In this case I was on the rv.net site and a link brought me here to the "ultimate haha users guide" and after reading it all and trying to digest most of it, great photo's and all I knew I just had to invest the time to thank 2airishuman and others who gave all the time to share with any others like myself.

At the time of the incident I had a Reese straight line hitch which I was feeling OK about as over the course of the 30K miles and reading posts I had learned to give the proper angle to the hitch head and adjust the links and level it all up etc. BUT-at panic time it did not do a thing for the sway situation. Put a couple of hundred miles on the haha and will shove off on a 12 to 15K ride in March so the wear and tear and proper maintenance shown here is very valuable information. Again - my thanks to you all -

Plumbob, you wouldn't believe the number of stories I heard just like yours over the ten years I was the Vice President of Henlsey Mfg. This thread IS the most comprehensive information available on the haha. Of course, I have to mention, it isn't necessary to spend $3K anymore since I am selling the new design is 2/3 of that. Some day 2air' will need to start the ultimate 3P user's guide. I'm looking forward to it.

[bernermom]

We have had major problems hooking up the HAHA. Sorry for my non-techincal descriptions below, but I am not mechanically inclined .

The last time it took over 3 1.2 hours to hook up in our driveway. The AS is parked behind a fence, and when you back up to hook up, you are not totally straight. My husband was told to loosen up the hitch and he does that,but I think perhaps too much. He has no problems backing up and getting the post into the hitch receiver, but then those last two inches will not go.

Since the hitch is so loose, it just moves and then the spring bar fell off. Took forever to get that back in, and the next time we used the trailer, the same spring bar came off again when we unhitched. When we unhitched, he loosened everything first, and I watched as he pulled out. The whole hitch just flopped to the side when he disconnected. I do not think that is what should happen. I think he has it way too loose.

We are so frustrated, he is thinking of returning it. I am trying to get him to read this post, but it is so very long at this point that it is hard to find the answer you need.

If someone can offer some shortcuts to what we need (2Air ) I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

Diane

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by bernermom

We have had major problems hooking up the HAHA. Sorry for my non-techincal descriptions below, but I am not mechanically inclined .

The last time it took over 3 1.2 hours to hook up in our driveway. The AS is parked behind a fence, and when you back up to hook up, you are not totally straight. My husband was told to loosen up the hitch and he does that,but I think perhaps too much. He has no problems backing up and getting the post into the hitch receiver, but then those last two inches will not go.

Since the hitch is so loose, it just moves and then the spring bar fell off. Took forever to get that back in, and the next time we used the trailer, the same spring bar came off again when we unhitched. When we unhitched, he loosened everything first, and I watched as he pulled out. The whole hitch just flopped to the side when he disconnected. I do not think that is what should happen. I think he has it way too loose.

We are so frustrated, he is thinking of returning it. I am trying to get him to read this post, but it is so very long at this point that it is hard to find the answer you need.

If someone can offer some shortcuts to what we need (2Air ) I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

Diane

Diane, call me on my cell phone, anytime, and I'll walk you through it. My cell number is 810-962-0219. Don't give away the safety and stability that the Arrow offers you when towing just because you are working through a learning curve. I know it's frustrating but it DOES get much easier once you get familiar with it.

[moosetags]

First off, don't feel like the Lone Ranger. The Hensley has a learning curve that has to be dealt with. I had similar problems at first, but we eventually mastered it.

When backing into the Hensley, if I can get within an inch or two of seated, I'm as good as in. If I can get the locking lug over its spot on the hitch bar, I pull it in with the wrench.

If you could provide some photo of your HAHA set-up, we can determine if it is properly installed. Dealer installed does not necessarily mean properly installed.

Don't give up. The towing characteristics are more than worth the effort.

Brian

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by moosetags

First off, don't feel like the Lone Ranger. The Hensley has a learning curve that has to be dealt with. I had similar problems at first, but we eventually mastered it.

When backing into the Hensley, if I can get within an inch or two of seated, I'm as good as in. If I can get the locking lug over its spot on the hitch bar, I pull it in with the wrench.

If you could provide some photo of your HAHA set-up, we can determine if it is properly installed. Dealer installed does not necessarily mean properly installed.

Don't give up. The towing characteristics are more than worth the effort.

Brian

It has to be loose and as Moosetags stated you use the locking lugs to pull it all together. Be sure you spring bar is inserted completely it should not fall out. I also spray the stinger with silicon spray to make it slippery. Once you get the hang of it can be easier than a ball hookup.

[dpandorf]

Originally Posted by bernermom

We have had major problems hooking up the HAHA. Sorry for my non-techincal descriptions below, but I am not mechanically inclined .

The last time it took over 3 1.2 hours to hook up in our driveway. The AS is parked behind a fence, and when you back up to hook up, you are not totally straight. My husband was told to loosen up the hitch and he does that,but I think perhaps too much. He has no problems backing up and getting the post into the hitch receiver, but then those last two inches will not go.

Since the hitch is so loose, it just moves and then the spring bar fell off. Took forever to get that back in, and the next time we used the trailer, the same spring bar came off again when we unhitched. When we unhitched, he loosened everything first, and I watched as he pulled out. The whole hitch just flopped to the side when he disconnected. I do not think that is what should happen. I think he has it way too loose.

We are so frustrated, he is thinking of returning it. I am trying to get him to read this post, but it is so very long at this point that it is hard to find the answer you need.

If someone can offer some shortcuts to what we need (2Air ) I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

Diane

Hi Diane, I understand your frustration as early on I too thought this challenge could take the fun out of our new adventure into traveling.

First off as previously recommended ensure the hitch has been properly installed. If it is look again at the photos in the hitch installation manual on how to hookup.

Back the TV to within a short distance to the hitch (around 3-4"). Then compare the height of the stinger connected to the TV to the hitch and adjust the trailer height to match the stinger height.

Next stand to the side and crouch down to look at the horizontal relationship between the stinger and hitch. They should align. If for example the TV/trailer are not on level ground (i.e., on an incline) then you must adjust the head of the hitch via the jack springs to align the hitch to align with the stinger. (This may add some tension to the spring bars)

Next ensure the side to side angle of the hitch is the same as the stinger. To adjust this angle the jack springs must be adjusted like the handles on a wheel barrow. Adjust one or the other to adjust the hitch to compensate for the side to side angle that may occur due to the levelness of the trailer.

Once that is accomplished you may have to make slight adjustments again to the hitch height, hitch nose angle up or down.

Then just back into the hitch and finish the hook up.

A note from the manual: (IMPORTANT: Be sure the tow vehicle wheels are straight ahead when backing the hitch bar into the hitch box and when pulling out of the hitch box with the tow vehicle.)

Hope this helps. Once you've practiced this a few times and get the hang of it you'll find that you can hitch up in a very short amount of time in almost any situation. I no longer have any qualms about the hookup process and even if it did take a few more minutes than another hitch system I wouldn't tow with anything else.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by bernermom

We have had major problems hooking up the HAHA....
If someone can offer some shortcuts to what we need (2Air ) I would really appreciate it...Thanks Diane

hi diane

hooking up and disconnecting is a finesse thing not a 'force it' thing...

and the can can be VERY frustrating.

a good HOOKUP actually begins with a smooth disconnect.

in other words IF unhooking is difficult (trailer drags or drops off the stinger)...

the NEXT hookup will be a bear too, because the alignment or height were off already.

does that make sense?

as other users are reporting we've ALL had some frustrating moments with this, but once we finally understand it gets MUCH MUCH easier....

here are the helpful posts...

go back and look at the photos and comments in posts# 29-35, 203, and 215.

the info in posts 176-178 and 197-199 and 209-216 are also useful, so read them.

now IF you've taken some photos PLEASE post them here so we can visualize your install and the hook up issues...

i'm not clear what u mean by LOOSE.

if it these means the 'hitch is loose' from the frame it will flop all around and that's not good,

don't loosen the hitch 2 trailer connections or strut bars to hook up

IF you mean the jacks are loose that right, but only up to a point.

i don't agree that the jacks should be sloppy loose for every hookup/disconnect

the jacks really need to be 'loose enough' not to bind, but they also need to be adjusted properly to align the square hole and stinger....

by adjusting (tightening/loosening) one jack or the other the hole changes positions....

add in adjustments to the trailer TONGUE JACK for height...

so the goal is to position the hole to match the position of the stinger tip...

moving the tow vehicle around until it's reasonably straight/inline with the trailer is important but will only get ya so far...

then as the screw jacks on the haha are adjusted the opening moves...

up/down, right/left, tilts uphill/down hill and rotates clock/counterclock wise...

in other words adjusting the jacks moves the haha opening and female channel in ALL directions!

this isn't obvious without the hitching rods or the stinger projecting OUT of the box...

it is also important (especially when just learning) to have the haha box in the CENTER position for all hookups...

we can get hitched with the haha in either of the side slots,

but it's much harder when just learning, so move the haha box to the center slot before ALL hookups.

also i agree with what the other users are reporting, IF you get within 1-2 inches,

you can PULL the two 2gether with the over center latches and the wrench...

again go back and LOOK at the posts i've listed, study the pictures and post some of your own...

YES you can call the haha 800 number and someone will help ya from the company, or you can call sean...

but then we users wouldn't be helping EACH OTHER, which is one of the goals of this thread....

keep asking here we won't let ya down, and the results ARE worth it...

cheers
2air'

and as mentioned early a good next hook up begins with an easy disconnect.

just loosening the jacks isn't enough,

the a/s tongue jack has to be at the proper height

to release tension in the hitch and that is a common issue in the beginning/learning process.

many folks get so frustrated and worried about this process that once un hooked or hooked up they avoid doing it again...

my suggestion is practice hooking and un hooking several times all together. it really advances the learning curve.

un hook on a really flat open space, take the van for a 'loop' and reconnect. then disconnect and repeat, there is no need to move the trailer for this....

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

a good HOOKUP actually begins with a smooth disconnect.

in other words IF unhooking is difficult (trailer drags or drops off the stinger)...

the NEXT hookup will be a bear too, because the alignment or height were off already.

does that make sense?

Hey 2air', have you been to one of my hooking/unhooking seminars at a rally? This is directly from the script...

[2airishuman]

a hitch rally?

sorry bud i haven't.

but even a blind pig can find the beer if he roots 'round enough...

and that would be me!

cheers
2air'

[bernermom]

Thanks so much for all the repiles!

My husband just found that the zerk pin is completely sheared off. Not sure how that happened, as we have only hooked up once to take a drive to a local park, and once to take it back to the dealer for warrenty work, and then of course again to take it home.

Before we can try again, we will need to get a new zerk. I will call Hensley tomorrow, and I will also take some pictures of the hitch and post them this afternoon.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

a hitch rally?

sorry bud i haven't.

but even a blind pig can find the beer if he roots 'round enough...

and that would be me!

cheers
2air'

Well, the hitch is really just an excuse to get together for a good time. And, I've done them at International rallies too.