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Old 03-29-2007, 03:41 PM   #201
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2006 30' Classic
Farmington , New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starflyte1
We have a new Haha and I am going to order the emergency parts kit. Should I order any other accessories? I want the hitch helper, but my husband doesn't think we need it. What about grease, etc?

Thank you!
Pat
Pat --like 2air says you really don't need the hitch helper. In fact I was going to order one with my haha and the fellow at Hensley told me they were not necessary. I took his advice and having hitched up several times now I think it would have been a waste of $$----------pieman
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:07 PM   #202
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haha Install

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Thanks Jim
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:26 PM   #203
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outstanding post jim!

the photos really help too...

we can see how you routed the lp gas lines...

and the 'bracket-strut bar-orange box linkage relationship is nicely revealed,

finally the photos show directly how to complete that bracket step....

i vote 2 karmalize this post, and users...

don't forget to rate the thread if you haven't yet...

it takes some effort and pre planning to capture an installation, so thanks again.

cheers
2air'
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:56 PM   #204
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Thanks 2air. Hope the pictures help, you started a great thread and I just wanted to contribute.

Jim
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:18 PM   #205
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2007 34' Classic
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I have a question about the HAHA hitch - When traveling slowly (under 30 mph) on a winding country road is it normal for the hitch move to one side or the other as I make a turn in the road? I can hear the "bump sound" in the hitch when it does this. i have checked the hitch and all seems OK, just need some reassurance or advice. Thanks! Pecos Pete
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:21 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pecos Pete
When traveling slowly (under 30 mph) on a winding country road is it normal for the hitch move to one side or the other as I make a turn in the road? I can hear the "bump sound" in the hitch when it does this....
hi pete

take a look at the photo in post #102

the 4 link contraption does collapse inward on sharp turns..

and at speed on the highway actually moves side2side 2 inches...

but i've never felt a bump from this, maybe perhaps others have.

some folks might hear the linkage movement, i don't.

it is common to get a bump IF the trailer brakes are reacting slower than the tv brakes...

and on tight curves it's not unusual to brake a little,

so check your controller setup and consider boosting it a little...

this assumes the struts are 'tight' on each side and the brackets aren't loose...

cheers
2air'

as i recall you had a hydaulic brake leak recently...was your setup re-calibrated after this repair?
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:45 PM   #207
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thanks 2air

the setup was re-calibrated after the repair. I was hoping you would respond to my post. I think the haha is operating as is supposed to, I just wanted to make sure. The bumping sound was not major, just there, if you know what i mean. The struts are "tight" and the brackets are not loose. The hitch performs like a dream on the highway - this was just the first time we have been on a (terrible) winding country road - thanks to our GPS. Never again, lesson learned!

Pecos Pete
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:37 PM   #208
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1999 23' Safari
Palm Desert , California
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Need More Help!

In my post #192 I outlined problems we were having with the spring bars and I appreciate all the response I got. We talked to Hensley and they said our problem was the drop–that we needed a 6 inch instead of the 4 inch we had. We were able to hook up with no problem using the 4 in drop although we have only towed the trailer a short distance a couple of times we have hooked and unhooked 6 times–and found it quite easy–other than the fact that we were not able to tension the jacks very much–only part way down towards the first mark. We did all the measurements before and after hooking up and got the car back to within half inch of the original measurements at all 4 corners–it was slightly lower all around. This was, as I mentioned, with the jacks barely tensioned. If we tensioned the jacks to the first mark the rear of the car went up quite a bit as did the front of the trailer. So—today we tried the 6 in drop and could not even get hooked up! With the 4 in drop the trailer hitch and the car were pretty well lined up but with the 6 in drop the car is now quite a bit lower than the trailer and try as we might we could not get them hooked together. So I guess my question is how important is tensioning the jacks to the first mark–we were told by Hensley that it should be at least to the first mark or they would probably loosen off as we drove. I think our problem is also compounded by the fact that we have "auto ride" on our suburban so that it automatically levels itself after we hook up the trailer. We sure don’t want to continue fighting with the 6 in drop when we were able to hook up so easily with the 4 in drop. Also is it possible to bend the Hensley at all–when we asked at Hensley if we would have trouble hooking with a 6 in we were told we might have to ram it a bit–which we did–enough to shift the trailer back a foot even with blocks under the tires–but not enough to get it hooked! Now the Hensley looks like it is on a downward angle. Things were going along so nicely–I was actually feeling quite smug because we had been able to hook up so easily–now I feel quite humbled! And of course we are due to leave a week today for our 3,000 mile trip home from Palm Desert to Ontario, Canada.
I should add that we have been hooking up without a load in either the trailer or the tv so don’t know how that would change things–if we are loaded would we then be able to tension the jacks more and not have to go to the 6in?
Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:57 PM   #209
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hi hapitauk

yes the haha can appear to point downward like this...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...own-24356.html

which does NOT mean it's bent.

PLEASE POST SOME PICTURES

with the 4 inch bar and while hooked up.

then answer some of the questions in my previous reply...

which bars, how many holes and so on...

given the variety of adjustments possible it's hard to offer any useful help without images..

the jacks/spring bars are ONLY for weight redistibution ...

and the haha 'no sway' function is operational even when the w/d bars are slack.

jarrod's POINT is that the jacks can unscrew IF not tensioned to at least the first mark...

so the weight redistribution MAY unwind while traveling....

apparently you've not weighed the setup or adjusted the jacks based on axle loads....

really we need photos of your installation and connected arrangement...

also talk with the chevy dealer...

your auto level suspension may require a specific sequence of events during hook up.

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:21 PM   #210
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1999 23' Safari
Palm Desert , California
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Unhappy

Hi 2air

Yes there are 3 holes showing and we are using the 1000 spring bars. We have a suburban tv --not a 4 x 4 but it has 20 in wheels. We will talk to the chevy dealer and see if there is some particular way we should hook up. I will try and post some pictures--if I can figure out how . We have not weighed the setup nor have we tried hooking up with a load. We only got the trailer in Jan. and have not been anywhere in it yet. We have been waiting for the 6 inch drop which just arrived (apparently held up by a slow train) to see if that would help with the tensioning of the jacks. But can't see if that helps since we were not able to get it hooked up and at this point I am feeling that we are running out of time. The trailer is in storage and we will head over there tomorrow to try again--beginning to wonder if trading in our 33ft Winnebago and tow vehicle for a suburban and airstream was the right decision Sorry--feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment--sprained my ankle the other day and being on crutches is not helping me get organized and packed for our trip I am sure we will get if all figured out eventually!

Gail
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Old 04-11-2007, 11:34 PM   #211
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1999 23' Safari
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Pictures -- I Hope!

Here goes--I am trying to post some pictures--not sure I know what I am doing so hope they appear.

Gail
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Old 04-12-2007, 10:42 AM   #212
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ok hapitauk

the pictures are helpful.

clearly looks like the trailer is just a tad high in the front,

so trying the 6 inch bar is reasonable.

hitching with the 4 inch bar has been easy, so only minor adjustments are needed for the extra 2 inches of drop...

1. position as usual
2. lower the trailer nose using the tongue jack approximate 2 inches more, till box opening is the same height as the stinger..
3. now the haha hitch box will be angled slightly downward. this is the problem created by lowering the trailer nose...
4. so LOOSEN both screw jacks more; perhaps ALL the way.
5. loosening the screw jacks WILL angle the hitch box upward more to match the stinger; that is the goal
6. look at pix in post #31 and #33 as a reference.


IF you are forcing/ramming the stinger into the hitch box, that suggests the 2 aren't in ideal alignment.

adjusting the screw jacks WILL re-align the box so you might need to fiddle with steps #2 and #4 above...

really this alignment issue is the challenge we all having connecting the haha,

which is why we use 'hitchin rods' or other visual aids.

now after the docking is complete, and just an a side note, and i know nothing about the auto level suspension...
...i suggest turning OFF the suburban power while adjusting the jacks/spring bars tension back to level
...get the jacks tensioned to the desired amt, and then restart the t.v.
...but check with the chevy dealer or in the owners manual for the correct approach to your auto level feature.

without weighing the set up it is all guesstimation, but with your trailer size and estimated tongue mass,
the new 750lb spring bars haha now offers might be better suited to the 23 footer.

good luck and keep us posted.

2air'
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Old 04-12-2007, 10:53 AM   #213
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Will Try Again

Thanks 2 air. Talked to Jarrod this morning and he suggested the same as you--lowering the jacks more--we did have them sloppy loose but he said keep lowering them. We are headed over now to try again. Maybe we will call him later and ask about the 750 bars. Also talked to Chevy assistance today but they only reiterated what was in the manual and that says to let the car level itself once you are hooked up and then adjust the bars. Will also check with the dealer.

Thanks so much for trying to help--I will take the camera and get some more shots if we can get it hooked up. Will try to remain calm

Gail
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Old 04-12-2007, 06:30 PM   #214
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Success!!

Thanks again 2air
I don’t know what happened yesterday–guess we just panicked and couldn’t think straight–blame it on a senior moment! Studied the pictures you mentioned and we do have the hitching posts which really should have helped us yesterday–did I say senior moment? We loosened the jacks as much as we could, put on the hitching posts and then moved the jacks till the posts were parallel and hard as it is to believe the stinger (with the 6 in drop) slipped right in! I am attaching pictures of the process. Still have a couple concerns. Are the spring bars supposed to be parallel to the tongue after the jacks are tensioned as ours are not?. We can now tighten the jacks down to the first mark and that is without a load–when loaded we should be able to tighten a little more?? I also gave you an incorrect answer–we only have two holes showing–if we had 3 holes showing would it have made any difference in our having to go to the 6 inch drop? Would going to 750 spring bars make a difference in the drop–what is the purpose of the lighter bars? As you can see from the pictures we are not on perfectly level ground plus it slopes but we took measurements and I think they came out pretty good. I know we should have tried to find some spot that was more level but that would have meant backing up 200 yards to get it back into storage and we were not ready for that.

Before hooking up:
Right Rear 37
Right Front 35 1/8
Left Rear 36 1/4
Left Front 34 ½
After hooking and adjusting jacks
Right Rear 37 1/4
Right Front 35 1/8
Left Rear 36 ½
Left Front 34 5/8
Hopefully the pictures will upload so you can see how we look hooked up–the hitch does have quite a downward angle to it. Would going from 2 holes to 3 change that? First picture is before any adjustments, next picture is after playing with the jacks and getting the posts parallel. Then hitched up but before tensioning jacks then after tensioning the jacks and the next picture shows the slant of the hensley. Next two are of the tv and a/s and final shows that we have 2 holes showing. I sure hope we are on the right track and I really appreciate your comments.
Gail
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:46 PM   #215
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hi hapitauk

what a difference one day can make.

IF 3 holes were showing YES the screw jacks would have tighened further...

basically another 1.5 inches approximately and at least to the 'first mark'...

your original issue.

however you may still have needed the 6 inch bar because drop is based on LEVELING the trailer.

i assume the before/after measurements in the last post are tv positiions?

my approach ALSO includes measuring the trailer position before and after adjusting the bars...

-pick a landmark like the beltline trim or mid rivet line and measure the trailer vertically...

-ideally first position the trailer UN hitched and dead level.

-after hitching measure the relative differences front/back with either drop bar....

-the stinger which keeps the trailer closest to level WINS!

-usually the trailer front will be a bit lower but as the screw jacks are tightened, the front returns to level...

SO do your jack/spring bar adjustments to level the trailer first and the tv second.

the PRIMARY function of the spring bars is to redistribute the tongue mass forward onto the steering wheels and a little back to the trailer wheels,

until you visit a scale and measure all the axle loads there isn't a good reason to change spring bars...

IF the tongue only weigths 600-700 lbs the lighter spring bars would work, but no they don't affect stinger drop...

the notion of lighter spring bars is to soften the trailer ride some...

lastly (you asked) the spring bars aren't completely parallel to the tongue after tensioning...

check some of the other pics, they look basically like yours...

have a safe and pleasant trip!

2air'

just from looking at the last batch of photos, the set up looks good now...

oh and don't forget to tighten the struts to "FIRM"

anyone else have an opinion?
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Old 04-12-2007, 10:48 PM   #216
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Your pictures don't show that the over center latches have pins in them. Be sure you don't tow without putting in the over center latch pins on either side of the hitch.
GStephens
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:25 AM   #217
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hapitauk----as to changing from 2 to 3 holes: what you have is fine until you're parked where you need more "up" adjustment on the nose of the hitch to get aligned with the shank. In that case dropping to the 3rd hole will in effect, raise the nose of the hitch. This will also require you adjust the jacks past the first mark. I run ours in the 3rd hole. The end result as to the angle of the bars in relation to the trailer frame will be the same. Hope that's not to much "jibberish".-----pieman
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Old 04-15-2007, 03:54 PM   #218
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1999 23' Safari
Palm Desert , California
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Experimented with 3 holes

We decided to try going to three holes on the jacks and try the 4 inch drop again. Still could not tighten down to the first mark so we now know we need the 6 in drop for sure. Left it on 3 holes and hitched up again with the 6 in drop (last time we hooked up with the 6 in we only had 2 holes showing) and had to tighten to the second mark to get the trailer level. So for now are leaving it with the 3 holes showing and when we hook up next week fully loaded will see if that is still suitable or if we will have to go back to the 2 holes showing. It seemed to be easier to hook up (better alignment) with the 3 holes showing than with the 2. Sure getting lots of practice hooking up . I really appreciate all the advice that we got--don't think we would have figured everything out without everyone's help (especially thanks to 2air!)

Gail
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:06 PM   #219
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Gail------I know you're more than a little frustrated but I really think you're all but there !! I just wish we had done what what you did, that being buying the Hensley first. ---pieman
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:59 PM   #220
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The Hensley has been making a popping noise

The Hensley has been making a popping noise so I decided to grease the hitch ball.
To grease the hitch ball, I hitch up the trailer but I don't tighten the jacks.
Then release the trailer hitch coupler, release the side struts and raise the tongue of the trailer with the trailer jack.
The ball will drop loose, grease it up and lower the trailer jack.
Lock the coupler again, adjust the side struts and you are all done.

Does anyone have any other tips to relive the Hensley pop noise?
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