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Old 01-02-2012, 06:04 PM   #15
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dzn', I guess I get 100%.

As for the different weight ratings, I am suspicious of what Equalizer says, although you might think they'd advise people to buy a new system when the dealer installs too heavy bars. It certainly seems a lighter bar would be more flexible, but wouldn't a stiffer, heavier one provide more sway control? It may also stress the trailer too much, but that's a different question.

As for the friction points, the bars fit rather loosely and the clevis pins hold them in place. If there were a lot of torque, wouldn't the clevis pins get bent? I don't see the wear I'd expect inside or outside the sockets if they torqued. If the company says that's where the friction is, that must be, but….

I looked on their website and it wasn't much help. They talk about 4 point sway control and it seems to refer to everything but the brackets. The explanation is vague and unclear. The 4 points seem to be each assembly on the tongue and up and down friction, but they don't seem to indicate the sockets do anything concerning friction. Maybe I missed more information somewhere. There is also mention of an Equalizer 2 with 2 point sway control, but no information about that product.

Gene
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:06 PM   #16
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This page clearly states:

1) 4 point sway control
2)"Second, the forward and back friction of the hitch arm on the bracket serves as a secondary sway control system." This means L-brackets are just that...SECONDARY.
3)"Rotational friction works to stop side to side sway before it starts. The rotational friction sway control is activated by downward pressure from the trailer tongue and upward pressure on the spring arms. The spring arms link the rotational sway control to the sway control brackets and distribute trailer tongue weight. The rigidity of the sway control brackets allow the dual rotational friction sway control to safely and effectively hold the trailer in line behind the tow vehicle and combat sway before it starts."

I got quite a bit of clarification from EQ tech support on this subject back when we were all debating this last year about this time on other threads.

See EQ explanation here:

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Product Info - 4-Point Sway Control™
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:09 PM   #17
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Hey Gene, if your Trunnions fit loosely, you need to torque them, IIRC they spec is 60LB/FT. I liked mine at 75 LB/FT. I'll look for the manual. They SHOULD NOT FIT LOOSELY. The pin is there to just hold it in place....nothing more.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Hey Gene, if your Trunnions fit loosely, you need to torque them, IIRC they spec is 60LB/FT. I liked mine at 75 LB/FT. I'll look for the manual. They SHOULD NOT FIT LOOSELY. The pin is there to just hold it in place....nothing more.
Hi, I torque mine at 80 lbs, but I replaced my bolts with grade 8.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:29 PM   #19
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Page 25 under socket bolt gives spec. Should be tight. Pretty obscure that it is in trouble shooting instead of the maintenance section. 45 - 65 ft/lbs is spec....I like 75 lb/ft.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...anual_0111.pdf
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:37 PM   #20
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I have had my Equalizer for 2 years and have had no problems other than getting grease on a nice pair of shorts. I now use the grease that equalizer sells and just a little dab on the friction points on the head only and I clean it off after each trip. This made a tremendous difference in the noise. I had a few questions on the set up and called the company. They were most extremely helpful in helping me get my hitch "dialed in". I bought a spare parts kit to keep in the trailer just in case I lose an L- pin or one of the head pins or clips than retain them. I would hate to be a long way from home and not be able to have WD and sway control on the trailer.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:44 PM   #21
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I grease my ball and have occasionally soiled shorts or pants. Good thing is that I've had great luck pre-treating with Shout -- the squeeze plastic bottle with the scrubby end is good.

Yes, even Reese says don't use grease on the friction arms. It's necessary to go for full disclosure -- Reese does say you can use petroleum jelly to decrease squealing. Not sure why that wouldn't be acceptable for Equalizer.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:48 PM   #22
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Wxbuoy - -
I like the bag idea. I am kinda weirdly fussy about this sort of thing and may want to get a canvas bag made at an upholstery shop. I dunno, I might be over doing it, but really, I hate messy things.

I love these discussions about the bars. I've been studying the design a lot to be sure I understand exactly how it works. I tend to think there is no useful friction at the L bracket end. Yes, it's enough to scrape the paint off the bars, but not enough to stop trailer sway!
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:24 PM   #23
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Did the installer lower the propane line on the curbside of the tongue to get the lower bolt tight and above it?
--------------
Yes.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:27 PM   #24
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Grab Handle and Lubrication

There are four lube points besides the ball itself.
For each of the two socket assemblies where they bind beneath the top mounting plate.
Where the torsion bars nest in the angle of the L-brackets.
No offense to Inland Andy, but lubrication at these points is recommended by the manufacturer and does not compromise sway control, which is outstanding with this hitch.
I have a 30' Classic and I run with the big dogs and experience great handling; as good as with Reese Dual Cam Sway Control I usually use.

Here's the handy grab-handle I added to my Equalizer. And as you can see, I leave the hitch head in the coupler to keep the grease off my trousers.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:30 PM   #25
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I always greased all 4 points on my EQ.
I grease the trunnion points and Vaseline the saddles on my Reese dual cam.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:35 PM   #26
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I grease my ball and have occasionally soiled shorts or pants. Good thing is that I've had great luck pre-treating with Shout --
Ok, I'm thinking a giant apron is needed here! The Equ-Pron.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:05 PM   #27
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dzn',

Now that I'm back after learning that trunnions had to do with cannons and not really understanding what that was all about, I remember that every discussion about Equalizer gets confused because people are using different words to describe the same things.

I don't believe Equalizer uses "trunnions". Maybe it means the bars.

They call those things on the side of the hitch head "sockets" (Equalizer: "Socket
Rectangular steel tubes on the Equal-i-zer® hitch head where the spring arms are inserted.").

Then there is the assembly on each side of the tongue with brackets: "Sway Control Bracket
Equal-i-zer® and E2™ brackets bolt on to the trailer frame. The spring arms rest on the bracket creating steel on steel friction sway control" [emphasis supplied].

Then there's this definition: "Linear Friction
Steel on steel positive friction created at the connection point of the spring arm on the L-bracket. Provides integrated sway control."

And more: "Rotational Friction
Downward pressure from the trailer tongue and upward pressure from the spring arms, created at the connection where head sockets rotate inside hitch head. Provides integrated sway control."

The 4 point sway control refers, according to these definitions as I understand them, to the 2 L brackets and the 2 sockets. All it says about the sockets is they "rotate inside hitch head". What rotating there is as I see it is horizontal as the tow vehicle turns. The sentence says to me there is a tension between the bars ("spring arms") pushing up against the tongue weight pushing down.

The socket bolts must come installed from the factory because there is little about them that I saw in the owner's manual. My sockets easily rotate. Are you saying they shouldn't? I have not tested the torque of the bolts. If torqued to 75 lbs., will the socket compress and not rotate easily?

Is it good I decided after 2 months in college not to pursue engineering.

Gene
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:50 PM   #28
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Gene, yes, when socket bolts are torqued to 65 lbs, the sockets will not turn by hand. To move them, I put a spring arm into the socket and use the leverage of the arm to turn the socket. As such, I can see how the sockets contribute to sway control, especially when further loaded with spring bar under tension. This is the "rotational friction" mentioned above.

I had to retorque the bolts a couple times when i first got the hitch, and then on periodic re-checks, they have stayed pretty tight.

Steve
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