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Old 06-05-2012, 10:54 AM   #1
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The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

I have been a long time user of Reese Products. Both original Dual Cam and the Straight Line systems. I have installed this type of hitch on trailers with surge brakes, something the both the Reese and the manufacture of the surge brakes told me could not be done. I have written here extensively about setting up WD hitches. And I have advised Reese on several problems with there products ranging from the placement of the oil holes on the newer heads not allowing oil to reach the front face of the trunnions to the reason for failure of the yokes of the Straight Line while making a turn.

Now I have discovered what I think is a better system and would like to open a discussion with others that may be using the new Andersen WD Hitch.

I installed this system and have used it on 2 trips. First impressions are, it works, completely controls sway, eliminates porpoising, is completely silent, take less than 30 seconds to hitch up, and cost a fraction of the competition.


If you are using this new system please share your comments here.
For a You Tube of this system
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:08 AM   #2
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Pretty interesting.. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:18 AM   #3
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I am also an Andersen WD hitch user. After about 2000 miles I am extremely happy with the system. Basically it just works, I am not an engineer and have no other WD hitch system experience to compare it too. For my specific TV and trailer combination it is perfect as far as I can tell. I worked directly with Dave Andersen to put my package together due to the differences in the Bambi II frame size of 3 inches. The package put together for me now has its own part number. On the highway sway is virtually gone as is the bucking while accelerating and stopping. The TV and trailer really do feel as one.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:53 AM   #4
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The antisway looks like it may work, strictly based on the tongue weight, but how does the Weight Distribution work, allowing 2" for height difference doesn't that mean it will drop that much when weight is put upon it to bring to level? Don't see how a non rigid chain link will provide the same W/D as a spring bar.

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Old 06-05-2012, 12:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@AirLA View Post
but how does the Weight Distribution work, allowing 2" for height difference doesn't that mean it will drop that much when weight is put upon it to bring to level? Don't see how a non rigid chain link will provide the same W/D as a spring bar.
Andersen explains that part at about 2:36 on this video:
Andersen HItches new "No Sway" Weight Distribution - YouTube
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
I have been a long time user of Reese Products. Both original Dual Cam and the Straight Line systems. .......Now I have discovered what I think is a better system and would like to open a discussion with others that may be using the new Andersen WD Hitch.
Howie, This seems like a nice set up. It looks like the the tensioning nuts need to be wrenched down each time it is hooked up. What does it take to get back to a consistent WD setting each time? Do you measure the exposed thread?

With the DualCam I am using on the Airstream, the adjusting nuts are set once, and then hooking up is is just a matter of picking the right link on the tensioning chain for the trailer load or which truck I am running. e.g. my F150 takes one more link of tension than does the F250.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:58 PM   #7
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Howie, This seems like a nice set up. It looks like the the tensioning nuts need to be wrenched down each time it is hooked up. What does it take to get back to a consistent WD setting each time? Do you measure the exposed thread?

With the DualCam I am using on the Airstream, the adjusting nuts are set once, and then hooking up is is just a matter of picking the right link on the tensioning chain for the trailer load or which truck I am running. e.g. my F150 takes one more link of tension than does the F250.
Andersen has a couple of misleading comments in the instruction. There comment that the front axle of the TV can rise after hitching up is completely wrong and i have mentioned that to Dave. They wrote the instructions for Spring Type trailer and thus do not take into account that an Airstream has to ride as close to level as possible to retain proper tongue weight. Once these issues are addressed and corrected all is well.

As for the readjustment of the tension nuts that may not be necessary. Once I had set the hitch up to get the load on the TV front axle that I wanted it turned out that if i lift the combination with the jack that reduces the tension on the chains enough that i can just drop the plate off the shaft without loosing the nuts. Since I am towing a 34 I suspect that will be the case with all smaller trailers. If readjustment is necessary if you have noted the displacement of the nuts when originally hitched you can adjust them by hand if you raise the trailer. That adjustment is no wares as critical as with other systems.

As for you comments on the Dual Cam system. MY trunnions would ware and put the system out of adjustment so I had to readjust the system at least once a year. a couple of thousands on the face of the trunnions and hitch head cups amplified by the length of the bars is significant. Another consideration is the fact that the bars are not the same length and if not marked and always used on the same side the Reese will actually ADD to sway because the bars are riding off center to the saddles and thus cause an acceleration when first moved off center from a gust of wind or a trailer going by.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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Ditto, on the need to adjust once and forget it. Drop the jack down taking some weight off the hitch and the chains loosen up. Pull the pin and drop them off. Replace the sleeve and pin and you are good to go until next time. For the next hook up simple put the ball into position under the hitch, replace the chain attachment plate and pull the jack up and you are all set. For my combination I have 7 threads showing on each side. If weights and loads remain close to the same no further adjustment seems to be needed. I am guessing but I would say that the urethane bushing compresses about 1/4 inch in my case. There are several threads already here that go into deep theories about how the system works and of course the responses from so called experts that say that it is impossible and could never work. Personally I donít really care how the system works as long as it does and this system just plain works. That is good enough for me.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:36 PM   #9
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How the system works is self explanatory if you have an understanding of Maxwells Diagram, the system used to determine the loads in a static structure. The bushings put exactly the same forces into the head as the bars do it is just that they apply that force at the bottom of the shaft and through the ball rather than into the cups of the head. Since the heads in both systems are ridge the point of application is irreverent.

I have to admit I had to go back a second time after a night of thought before I bought mine.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #10
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How does the sway control work...??
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:17 PM   #11
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I like it. The more weight on the spindle, the more sway braking. Ingenious! Is the brake pad a replacement item? Is it attached to the receiver or the spindle? What's the life of the brake pad?
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:52 PM   #12
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First, most importantly, what will be the life of the hitch coupler with so much force exerted against it? That's an enormous weak link (as can be found in a recent/current thread on this board) as it is not designed for this.

Are any of you going to be replacing the trailer hitch coupler with something stronger, such as a Trailer Couplers - Bulldog?

Second, who has done weight scale comparisons (full work-up) on this hitch, as against other types? Or even just of itself? The Full Monte of empty adjusted weights (both vehicles), loaded weights, and hitch weights on a certified scale.

Numbers matter.

Also,

There is a long (informative) thread currently at Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Towing: New Andersen WD Hitch

.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #13
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Rednax

You missed a critical point. There is NO MOTION at the coupling thus NO WARE.

Since the ball and the coupling are locked together as a single unit there will be no ware at that point. The only possible ware at the coupling is what will be experienced during changes in the vertical relationship of the TV and trailer. Maybe 5 degrees on the steepest hill or valley.

Have just last year replaced the coupling on my trailer do to a failure with my Reese system I figure I am set for at least 100 years now.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:59 AM   #14
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I fully expect the Andersen WD Hitch to outlive me. There is nothing under specíed about any of the components. As I said in my review the TV and trailer move as one. Very solid hook up between the units. I took a look at the brake/anti-sway material sleeve last night and it has zero wear after 2000 miles of use. I realize that numbers do matter to some people, personally I am more interested in real world results.
There are other threads for discussion about theory, this one is supposed to be reviews from actual users of this hitch.
So if there are any other actual users out there please give us more of your experience and thoughts on how the hitch is working out for you.
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