The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[Rich of SCal]

FOR WHOM IT MAY INTEREST:

At the risk of actually putting something relevant on this thread, just wanted to post that my Quickbite coupler is now welded to my AS. Still needs a little buffing out and paint, but looks very solid. The top of the old coupler was retained for the tongue jack screw holes. But sides were cut off and ground down as my welder/neighbor wanted to weld on new plate steel to the tongue and attach the qb to that. Have to admit it does make a very solid platform.

If he had done as suggested and merely slipped the qb over the existing atwood (minus the "nose" of course) it still would have left a gap that needed filling anyway.

I don't have room to move my brackets forward to make up for the qb being longer than the atwood, so I anticipate my chains will be one or two links short. I think rather than adding removable links I am just going to contact Andersen and order new chains with extra links. I bent one of my "screws" anyway, so might as well do it right.

I will also have to raise my ball/shank up one hole since the qb ball socket is higher than the atwood, but that shouldn't be a problem.

Oh, I also asked him to add a stop-bead in front of each coupler.

Soon I will be trying out the new system and report my observations.

BTW, rather than messing with clamps or vise grips, we just held the qb in place via the nose jack and it's bolts. Worked fine.

[SteveSueMac]

Rich - that coupler looks pretty cool. If they don't, AS should offer customers a coupler choice. Maybe brand X is the standard but for an extra $N you can have brand Y or Z installed at the factory...

Good luck!

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Rich - that coupler looks pretty cool. If they don't, AS should offer customers a coupler choice. Maybe brand X is the standard but for an extra $N you can have brand Y or Z installed at the factory...

Good luck!

Thanks, I agree, they should let you have the option of a better coupler. Maybe they do if you order it built. But I have to thank those who went before me. I am not the first to add the quick bite. Thanks HowieE for the info (post 1396).

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by HowieE

A bar/friction type sway control hitch control sway through the formula. F=UM. F is the force to overcome movement at the cams and is a function of U, the coefficient of friction between steel and steel and the M, commonly referring to a mass at rest, but in this case the load on the bars produced by transferring weight to the front axle.---

No disagreement -- that's essentially what I said in the first sentence of my previous post:
QUOTING myself
Some BAR type WD hitches do need to be transferring load in order to generate sway control. The Equal-I-zer and Dual Cam are two examples of these so-called "integrated" WDHs.
UNQUOTE

Originally Posted by HowieE

---The only reason to consider weight transfer when using an Andersen, that uses a different mechanical mechanism, friction between the cone and ball shaft, is to apply enough downward force on the front axle to maintain steering geometry, something you might find and quote from some of my other posts.

Maintaining steering geometry is not the major consideration as regards "sway control". The major consideration is maintaining enough load on the front tires so that sufficient steering force is generated. I'm surprised that you would deny this now after stating it in so many of your previous posts. Here's an example:
QUOTING HowieE
Another way to look at this is if the rear fender dropps 1/2 in. the front should drop about 3/8in. These measurments will very somewhat depending on the truck springs but the important point is you want to see weight transfered to the front axle. If the front axle is coming up you will have sway because of the reduced road friction on the front axle.
UNQUOTE (bold added for emphasis)

Originally Posted by HowieE

The owner of the hitch you posted above was a victim of the misunderstanding that WD transfer had to equal that of a bar type system. He had a lightly sprung TV. The load applied to the bushing was beyond extreme and thus caused COLD FLOW of the brake material.

Member floridalarry was not the victim of a misunderstanding. He simply was doing what the Owners Manual for his 2012 Nissan Armada says he should do:
"Attach the trailer to the vehicle and adjust the hitch equalizers so that the front bumper height is within 0 - .5 inches (0 – 13 mm) of the reference height measured in step 2. The rear bumper should be no higher than the reference height measured in step 2."

IOW, he was supposed to adjust the Andersen WDH to return the front axle approximately to its unloaded weight. Since the Andersen WDH is rated for 1400# tongue weight, returning the front axle to its unhitched load would not have exceeded to rating of the hitch and would not have been an "extreme" load.

The second photo of extruded Andersen WDH friction material is for a hitch connected to a TT with 800# tongue weight. The Andersen was able to achieve 57% Front Axle Load Restoration. The load on the Andersen would not have exceeded the rating of the hitch and would not have been an "extreme" load. However, the friction material still was extruded.

A properly-operating WDH must be able to restore front axle load to a value specified by the TV manufacturer. Depending on tongue weight and the TV manufacturer's specification, the Andersen WDH might be able to do the job -- and, it might not.

Ron

[kscherzi]

I have the Anderson and have these observations. I must add this is my first ever weight distributing hitch and I really want it to work.

1. Its clean and the individual pieces are not heavy.
2. I've never had sway. Not sure this hitch stopped it, just haven't had it.
3. Its made in the USA and it is well made.
4. It barely redistributes enough weigh for my TV to stay within its rear axle rating.

That's the rub. I really want this hitch to work but for my application its marginal. I have a Ford Expedition SUV pulling a 27FB, maybe 900lb hitch weight. Weight carrying this adds about about 1200 lbs to the rear axle. By tightening the bushings a lot to where the begin to bulge over the washer I can move about 300 lbs off the rear. Problem for me is my Expedition can only take about 1,000 lbs on the rear axle. Add me, my wife and dog then we're done. No luggage. All the time the front rides lighter than unloaded. I still have 300 lbs of payload unused.

In my opinion, and after reading most of this thread, this hitch is excellent for smaller trailers and TV combinations, or for stout TV's that don't need a lot of weight distribution due to their inherent strength. For those with moderately heavy hitch weights and F-150 or less, probably marginal.

[idroba]

On the friction material: Andersen guarantees it for life, and will replace any which has become damaged for any reason. I also believe that they have changed their friction material since the hitch was introduced for a different kind, possibly because the original was not preforming as well as they expected. I know that when I visited the factory with an issue, they replaced my friction material on my early production hitch. So, if there is any problem with the friction material, Andersen stands behind it 100%, for life.

[themartaman1]

How does 900 pounds tongue weight become 1200 when you hitch up? Maybe I don't understand some point in towing.

[Rendrag]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

I have the Anderson and have these observations. I must add this is my first ever weight distributing hitch and I really want it to work.

1. Its clean and the individual pieces are not heavy.
2. I've never had sway. Not sure this hitch stopped it, just haven't had it.
3. Its made in the USA and it is well made.
4. It barely redistributes enough weigh for my TV to stay within its rear axle rating.
.....snip.............

You got that right. The Andersen is probably not the best device for those who need to balance a tow vehicle with an overloaded rear axle. Four foot long steel pry bars are better suited to unburdening the rear suspension. When the weight of fuel, an extra passenger, generator, or tool boxes has to be taken into consideration, things are too close for comfort. For me.

I do hope that you can report back that the first three items are true about your new hitch.

[kscherzi]

Originally Posted by themartaman1

How does 900 pounds tongue weight become 1200 when you hitch up? Maybe I don't understand some point in towing.

The physics of situation. A push down on the hitch is offset by an opposite upward push on the front axle. The rear axle is the pivot point. So the rear axle takes on the 900 lbs of hitch and an additional 300 lbs that's unloaded from the front that's needed to balance things out. Thus the 1200 lbs. In my case the Anderson is able to just redistribute that extra 300 lbs off, split between the trailer and front axle, but it can't do any more. As a result the front wheel well measurements do no return to the unloaded heights as per the Anderson instructions.

That said I can use the hitch, just can put anything in my tow vehicle. Also, the brake gasket material has already deformed and is squeezing out, probably because I have the bushings tightened close to their limits.

Please don't misread my observations, I not trying to badmouth this hitch. When I can afford to I'm replacing my tow vehicle with something stouter, that doesn't need such aggressive weight redistribution, and for that I think the which will be fine.

[AWCHIEF]

K. Sounds like you might need to buy another brand of WD system. Of course you will have to write a rather large check sooner than later. Good Luck.

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

---As a result the front wheel well measurements do no return to the unloaded heights as per the Anderson instructions.

The Andersen instructions which were sent to me state:
---The trailer should be level (within 1") and the tow vehicle should be pretty close to level.---
After hundreds of installation, we have found that it is just as effective to basically "sight level" the tow vehicle and get it as close to level as you can by tightening/loosening the Tension Nuts.

I interpret the Andersen instructions to say that, if the TV is "level" before hitching, the hitch should be adjusted so there is nearly equal drop at the front and rear of the TV.
This suggests to me that Andersen believes their "No-Sway" WDH works best when there is a significant amount of extra load added to the TV's front axle.
Unfortunately, user data has shown that, for tongue weights in excess of 500-600# it is difficult to return the front axle to unhitched load -- little lone being able to add additional load.

That said I can use the hitch, just can{'t} put anything in my tow vehicle. Also, the brake gasket material has already deformed and is squeezing out, probably because I have the bushings tightened close to their limits.

(I assume you meant "can't")

You are well below the tongue weight rating of the hitch. If the rating is correct, the bushings and friction material should be able to withstand much more load than you have applied.

Ron

[Rendrag]

"If the rating is correct, the bushings and friction material should be able to withstand much more load than you have applied."

Why is that? Is the hitch rating tied to 100% Front Axle Load Restoration now? Or is that another "assumption"?

[dkottum]

Andersen could solve many of the problems we users have had with this hitch by substantially lowering the recommended the trailer weights it can be used with.

It is irresponsible for them to continue to sell the hitch knowing many users are towing with dangerously lightened front steering axles. It became clearly evident to me when coming onto slippery highway surfaces (we pulled off the roadway for the evening).

Again, some of us would like to have these concerns answered by the manufacturer. Andersen, it's your turn.

doug k

[Rendrag]

Here's the deal. Manufacturers, including the tow vehicle builders, choose the optimum conditions to get their ratings. Do you think they take one of their run of the mill vehicles out to the test track and hitch up to the largest travel trailer they can find? I agree that the ratings that Andersen, Chevrolet, Ford, and others provide are seldom real world.

However, I would not hesitate in hitching up a 10,000 pound trailer with a 1400 pound tongue weight to my 2500HD pickup using an Andersen hitch I would be under all ratings, including payload and GCWR. Snug up the bushings and head on down the road. Not an extreme example.

Taking the best case scenario is no worse than the naysayers on here who choose to quote a few worst case instances.

[kscherzi]

Originally Posted by Ron Gratz

(I assume you meant "can't")

Ron

Gads. I'm embarrassed by my post. The typo's. Its partly due to my android pad aggressively "correcting" a typo with a word it thinks is right. Need to proof these posts better.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by Ron Gratz

Maintaining steering geometry is not the major consideration as regards "sway control". The major consideration is maintaining enough load on the front tires so that sufficient steering force is generated. I'm surprised that you would deny this now after stating it in so many of your previous posts. Here's an example:

Ron

Ron I don't mind you quoting and misusing my comment that pertain to the use of a Bar type WD hitch. I trust most readers can see through that ploy. I do mind you attempting to continue your discrediting of the hitch by making outright misleading statements. If you can explain where you see a difference between "maintaining steering geometry" and "maintaining enough load on the front tires" we will all be well served.

[Florida 55]

I've read with interest the 2196 posts on this thread about the new Anderson hitch. I've been impressed and sometimes amazed at the passion people on the forums have for this hitch and other hitch technologies and brands. After reading all of the stories about parts failing, improper weight distribution, trailer sway accidents and other hitch related disasters I must say I'm very concerned about risking life and limb when hitching up my Airstream. When I then turn to the tow vehicle threads I become downright paranoid. Not to mention the tire problems and leak issues.

I've come to the conclusion modern travel trailer technology is too complicated for mere mortals to comprehend and is getting in the way of enjoying camping. I've therefore decided to sell my Airstream and adopt proven hitch and towing technologies.

[msmcv51]

Hi Florida 55. I love the pictures of the Wagonstreamer. Ya know they have to have parts repaired and replaced from time to time. I'll bet that there has been improvements made over the last several thousand years or so with hitching and harness. I still prefer our 87 25' Sovereign with an 01 F-150 using the Andersen hitch and Quick-bite coupler.

[polarlyse]

And they also supply free horseshoes for the evening entertainment.

[Alphonse]

Originally Posted by Florida 55

. . . . . . . I've therefore decided to sell my Airstream and adopt proven hitch and towing technologies.

Chuck, have you checked the cumulative tongue weight of all those draught animals? You may be going beyond the capacity of the harnesses.

BTW, now passing 2200 posts in this thread. Thanks again Howie.