The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[dmand001]

Is it too good to be true? Owners of the Andersen Hitch know the answer. Once you understand the concept, you'll say, why didn't I think of that! It's so simple yet achieves WD, SWAY control, Bounce control, ease of Installation as well as Hitching/Unhitching, Quiet, Clean, Looks great and much more. All that due to the genius of a tapered ball w/ brake pad and a chain bushing set-up. It is a game changer. There's nothing to compare it to. It has made the complex more simple. Yep, love simplicity when it works. Those horses in horse trailers are grateful no doubt for the anti-sway/bounce this hitch has, mmmm wondering if one could sleep in a moving trailer w/out being tossed about.

I am not an owner yet but in a dire need of replacing the dirty heavy monster hitch that I have. I've enough knowledge accumulated in my own study of this hitch, thanks to Howie for initiating this thread and all the lucky owners of the Andersen Hitch, (AH) that posted.

The landscape in hitching is about to change!

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by REDNAX

SAE J2807 has a fairly wide range of coverage, despite narrowness in some instances. Some concerns posted here: Richard Klein, P.E
.

I found this information from the article linked above to be interesting:

"...recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its “no trailer” condition)."

I tried to find the SAE paper online, but there's a charge to download it from the site.

[DavidsonOverlander]

For anyone looking for a Canadian dealer, the Andersen hitch is sold by Cerka Industries in Milton, ON.

[DavidsonOverlander]

In looking at instructions for setting up weight distributing hitches I came across this:

FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK-UP OR TOW WITH REAR WHEELS OF TOWING VEHICLE REMOVED. Severe structural damage to towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.

Makes me wonder ... did someone actually try this? I expect someone did or it wouldn't be in the warnings.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander

In looking at instructions for setting up weight distributing hitches I came across this:

<b>

FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK-UP OR TOW WITH REAR WHEELS OF TOWING VEHICLE REMOVED. Severe structural damage to towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.

</b>
Makes me wonder ... did someone actually try this? I expect someone did or it wouldn't be in the warnings.

That is left over from the Old Tornado ad Airstream and one of the WD hitches produced back in the 70s. But just like any commercial add, ie a Ford truck running down a railroad on the ties, the public has to be warned not to follow.

We have to be protected from ourselves.

[polarlyse]

This is clear and convincing evidence that " We are our own worst enemies".
I suppose it amounts to job security for the attorneys out there.

[Tino643]

Review of a new Anderson hitch user. I just bought a new Airstream 27 feets Serinity. My truck is a 2011 Jeep Cherokee, 75th anniversary. I'm on my third Airstream. And my second whit this truck. I had a 20 feet and 25 feet. With the last two I had a Reese weight distribution with sway control. The system was adjusted to perfection. But the system was noisy and when big truck pass beyond me, it was pushing and pulling . After reading this forum I decided to purchase an Anderson. The istallation is quite simple and after 1500 miles of use, I am very satisfied with the performance compared to Reese. First I almost not feel large trucks that pass beyond me, second there is no noise whit this thing. But one thing bothered me. Configuration of the brakets. When installed, the chains have an angle. That force the plate to force whit an angle. View review 764 for and example . So I did make custum made ​​braket three inches longer. The chain will be parallel to the frame and the plate will no longer have force angle. My braket will be welded at the frame considering that they are longer an there will be more tension. I do not want them to move. I will paint then whit the A frame paint i order. I will poste a new review this spring when i got my Airstream out of storage...

[idroba]

Tino643: Your longer hitch bracket looks good, but I see one problem you may not have thought of. The square tube original bracket holds the chain from twisting when tightening the large rear nut. With the round tube you have fabricated there is nothing to keep the chain from turning when you tighten the Acme nut. I believe that will become a problem you will have to resolve in some way.

[HowieE]

Sorry but I have to second the comment on the square tubing. If you attempt to tighten using the round tubes and do not have a means to keep the chain from twisting any residual torque in the chain may cause the nut to tighten even more as you drive.

[AWCHIEF]

And a third Andersen user with concern about the round tube. The square tube is an integral part of the Andersen design to keep the chains aligned and not twisting. Andersen does not seem to have a problem with users making minor adjustments to certain aspects of the system; however at the very least I would imagine this radical a modification would totally void the warranty and remove them from any liability.

[Tino643]

Thank you for the information! But I do not have chains with me. The original square tube bracket is it the chain from twisting holdingho When tightening the rear nut off? I tought they were louse. And for the waranty, i call the Anderson and the factory can do the same braket. But the price was to hight ....

[AWCHIEF]

Tino, are you saying that Andersen makes the system with a round bracket tube or that they make an extended bracket. I know that they will custom makes different bracket lengths if requested. I really don't see how it would work safely with the round tube, the chain will twist.

[polarlyse]

I had thought about making a modified bracket also but using the square tubing for the reasons mentioned. I think I'll try it out as is for awhile before looking into that route. One thing I hadn't thought about was the length of the hitch. The distance from the receiver pin to the ball center is about 1.5" shorter than on my previous WD hitch. At the longer length I could just barely open my truck tailgate without hitting the electric tongue jack when hitched. That was so long as I was straight. I failed to try it when I took my Anderson for a test drive but this has come up for discussion later. I will have to contact Anderson this week and see if I can get one with a longer bar. I could have it modified but if it's not too costly I will go with what they are able to provide.

I think that Tino is on the right track but I agree he should have used the square tubing.

See y'all on the road sometime.

[Road Ruler]

Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander

For anyone looking for a Canadian dealer, the Andersen hitch is sold by Cerka Industries in Milton, ON.

Looks like the retail price up here is "Retail $715.60" plus tax.

[Wayne&Sam]

I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?

I suppose you could try that, but it would take a serious gorilla grip. Awful lot of pressure and torque involved. Also feel that as soon as the screwdriver was removed the chain would spin and there would go your adjustment. If you get a chance to see and use one you will see what I mean.

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?

Chief is right, That won't work. But I wonder if he could just drill a couple small holes and put in a bolt going through the center of a link. Doesn't seem like it would take much to keep the chain from twisting. The adjustment screw isn't a high torque item.

[Tino643]

Tanks for the info. for the tube. I didn't think about that because i don't have the chain whit me. There are whit the Airstream... I did not think that the square block the chain. I think if I use a screwdriver to hold the string that will be good. But I'll put squares instead of rounds and I give you some news in the spring...

[Rich of SCal]

Glad to see some activity on this thread again. My install project got postponed, first, due to my drilling the set screw hole right into my power cord, which is inside the AS a-frame. I disconnected all the internal leads under the dining seat. Then I pulled it outside just under the floor, but stopped there. I was ready to pull it completely out of the frame to the front to get a replacement, but then I got company at my little house for a couple of weeks. So I put everthing away, disconnected the battery completely, and use the AS as my extra bedroom.

Now the company is gone and I am ready to jump back into the project. I think I will replace the cord and install the new one back inside the frame, like the old one was. That seems to provide max protection from the elements.

Two questions: is there a recommended source for a replacement cord that will be exactly like the one that came with my AS? I believe it is a Bargman Company product.

2d:What should I use as a sealer in the floor where the power cord enters the Stream? I pulled out some rubbery grey sealing material. I don't know if it is some kind of rtv or what. I understand that only certain stuff should come in contact with aluminum. And I am not sure if there actually is any aluminum in the layers of flooring that start underneath the trailer. Temporarily I just jammed some old styrofoam in there, but that won't stay in place once I start traveling again.

[Mike91208]

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

Glad to see some activity on this thread again.

Just returned from a 1,000 mile trip with the Andersen. The more I use it, the more I like it.