Visit our Popular Forums

SteveH · 10-02-2012, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Now, with this thought in my mind does anyone know the paint code so I can mix up
some dark grey frame paint for my '01 Excella ?????? Come on now, someone must
have gone through this exercise at some point ?????

You can buy the paint thru Airstream parts for something like $15 per spray can.

The last time I painted one, I mixed some black into some Rustoleum Dark Gray till it matched. Couldn't tell the difference in color.

dkottum · 10-02-2012, 08:32 PM

Welding on frame note: Don't forget there are wires running through the A-frame for your tow vehicle hookup. The insulation could be damaged by the heat of welding, especially if closing old holes in the frame.

doug k

HowieE · 10-02-2012, 08:40 PM

Great point to keep in mind but I don't think there are any wire forward of the point that they enter the frame. If in question you should be able to look in from the front end and check.

dkottum · 10-02-2012, 09:01 PM

I found the wire bundle laying loose inside the street-side frame of mine when I drilled for the Andersen set screw. Didn't nick it but I put a glob of sealant on it to protect it from rubbing on the pointed set screw.

doug k

polarlyse · 10-02-2012, 09:03 PM

Good thought, thanks. The holes I need to close are on the curb side. I will check for wires before doing that.

Rich of SCal · 10-02-2012, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

If you plan to do any touch up painting you can weld the holes closed and grind them smooth and go with your paint job. Should be close to if not invisible. That's what I
plan to do with the sway bar attachment when I remove it.

Well, my tongue frame is black, so probably just squirt some black rustoleum on it.

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 08:58 AM

Well I finally got a delivery date....TODAY. The tracking info says it is out for delivery. I guess I will have to do the install for real now.

I am pretty sure I will have to remove a link from each side for best positioning. I don't have bolt cutters. Someone told me to use an angle grinder (which I need to get for another project anyway). Does that sound right or is there a better/easier way?

HowieE · 10-04-2012, 09:30 AM

Before you cut try just dropping one link and see if the D ring will still go into place. If so do your instal. You can always cut that link out late but they are hard to add back in.

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

Before you cut try just dropping one link and see if the D ring will still go into place. If so do your instal. You can always cut that link out late but they are hard to add back in.

I already tried that, but it doesn't work. The D-ring is too small to put in a link with 2 links still attached. At least on the one I looked at. I will try once more when my set arrives.

Kosm1o · 10-04-2012, 10:14 AM

You can cut them with an ordinary hack saw in a vise. They are not hardened steel.

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kosm1o

You can cut them with an ordinary hack saw in a vise. They are not hardened steel.

OK, thanks.

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 06:08 PM

My Andersen wd hitch arrived with a modification! The adjusting brackets are angled downward, which should fix the chain rub problem. Nothing in the instructions mentions this change. Nor do I see anything on the Andersen website about it. Anyway, it is a nice surprise.

DavidsonOverlander · 10-04-2012, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kosm1o

You can cut them with an ordinary hack saw in a vise. They are not hardened steel.

... but buying an angle grinder is more fun!

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander

... but buying an angle grinder is more fun!

Definitely!

10Smiles · 10-04-2012, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

My Andersen wd hitch arrived with a modification! The adjusting brackets are angled downward, which should fix the chain rub problem. Nothing in the instructions mentions this change. Nor do I see anything on the Andersen website about it. Anyway, it is a nice surprise.

Yes, very nice!! That's good to see.

dkottum · 10-04-2012, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

My Andersen wd hitch arrived with a modification! The adjusting brackets are angled downward, which should fix the chain rub problem. Nothing in the instructions mentions this change. Nor do I see anything on the Andersen website about it. Anyway, it is a nice surprise.

Depending how tightly the brackets fit you frame height, you may still have to take measures to secure the top of the brackets from tipping.

On my (less than) 5" frame I think the factory angled bracket would tilt to the straight position on the frame, better, but still not be aligned with the chain.

Good to see they're responding though.

doug k

HowieE · 10-04-2012, 08:53 PM

Rich

If you mount your brackets in the vertical position pace them so the top bolt is pushed down on the frame. Run the set screw in just enough to mark it's location. Once marked make a second mark ever so slightly below the mark the set screw made and use that as you center point. When the set screw is tightened down it will force the top bolt against the frame and may be enough to hold the top of the bracket from moving.

If you consider this let us know if it holds the top bolt from moving once you are on the road.

I had preloaded my brackets rearward to hold them in place. I was surprised to see that even with this preload the top bolts had marked the frame when I removed them. So there is rotation about the set screw.

Rich of SCal · 10-04-2012, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

Rich

If you mount your brackets in the vertical position pace them so the top bolt is pushed down on the frame. Run the set screw in just enough to mark it's location. Once marked make a second mark ever so slightly below the mark the set screw made and use that as you center point. When the set screw is tightened down it will force the top bolt against the frame and may be enough to hold the top of the bracket from moving.

If you consider this let us know if it holds the top bolt from moving once you are on the road.

I had preloaded my brackets rearward to hold them in place. I was surprised to see that even with this preload the top bolts had marked the frame when I removed them. So there is rotation about the set screw.

That's a good idea. I have a 4" frame and it is very close to the spacing of the bolt holes, but I wanted to mount the top up against the frame, figuring that the set screws will hold the bottom. Your method should make the top secure. I may even drill out the set screw holes. If this works, then a weld may not be necessary. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get to this for a couple days, but I will get back to you when I do.

Thanks to the forum for bringing this issue (chain angle) to the attention of the company. I am lucky to be one of the first beneficiaries of your efforts, everyone!

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-04-2012, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

My Andersen wd hitch arrived with a modification! The adjusting brackets are angled downward, which should fix the chain rub problem. Nothing in the instructions mentions this change. Nor do I see anything on the Andersen website about it. Anyway, it is a nice surprise.

Hi, glad to hear that Andersen is listening; This will make their hitch more desirable.

AWCHIEF · 10-05-2012, 06:57 AM

Just to see what their response will be I sent an email to Andersen requesting in the name of good customer service for them to swap out my old brackets for the new redesigned brackets. I don't think that they will be willing to do so, but it never hurts to ask. By making the bracket angle changes they have admitted that there was an engineering issues that needed to be addressed.