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SteveH · 08-10-2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by purman

Where is the pressure on the ball??

As you can see in the pictures of my ball, (which now has 3000 miles on it) There is some wear on the back of the ball, but most of the wear is on the side back on both sides, which doesn't hit the ball lock, as so many are worried about.

also, you will notice wear on the top front of the ball, not the back!!

Now some of this will depend on the wear of your coupler. Mine is over 40 years old. Others my have different wear on their ball,

(don't go there) It would be good to see some pictures of them.. Stay out of the gutter please

So if you get a chance post some pics..

Jason, Contrary to Andersen's claims, it looks to me like some hitch grease would be a good thing on that ball.

idroba · 08-10-2012, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

Jason, Contrary to Andersen's claims, it looks to me like some hitch grease would be a good thing on that ball.

My marks on my Andersen hitch are similar to Jason's, but none on the front of the ball. I do use a very small amount of Reese "on the ball" hitch lube (a white grease) and think it is of value. It is so small an amount it wipes off easily with a paper towel when I unhitch. The ball is smoother when I use the lube than when I didn't, so I am continuing to do it.

HermitCrab · 08-20-2012, 06:25 PM

I purchased my first AS (2007 Safari SE20) a couple of months ago and just picked it up this past weekend. After MUCH internal debate -- and scouring reviews and forums, including this thread -- I took a deep breath and bought the Andersen hitch.

This is my first time ever doing any towing of any kind, so I was extremely apprehensive about the tow experience. I'm also not mechanically inclined; I have trouble putting IKEA kit furniture together. Nevertheless, I managed to get the Andersen assembled and correctly tuned so the trailer and TV were dead level. The instructions that come with the hitch are very clear, even for people like me.

Towing was unexpectedly easy. The trailer behaved perfectly in sync with the TV on a wide variety of road surfaces and a wide range of speeds. Granted, this is coming from someone totally inexperienced, but I'm pretty pleased with this setup so far.

One quick question, though: From what I understand about the mechanics of the Andersen, the ball is supposed to move with the trailer tongue; this is why no grease is required. But if that's the case, then shouldn't the ball be kept free of grease so the ball doesn't slip at all? My AS had previously been used with an Equal-i-zer, so there was a ton of residual grease in the receiver. Should I remove all of this grease in order for the Andersen to work correctly?

Uzzah · 08-20-2012, 06:39 PM

It doesn't "need" grease, but a little shouldn't hurt if it's not getting into that brake material.

HowieE · 08-20-2012, 07:34 PM

As noted there is NO rotational movement between the ball and the coupling. There is a small amount of pitch and yaw do to dips and slight hills in the roadway. This movement in NO way requires greasing of the ball. One of the advantages of the Andersen is No grease and thus no grease on your pant legs while moving around the TV.

Yes there will be marks from the coupling on the ball but these will never amount to anything worth consideration other than aesthetics. Even with grease applied to the ball these marks will still be produced so the choice is yours. Clean pant legs or not.

Uzzah · 08-20-2012, 07:41 PM

But the question is, does the grease need to be completely removed in order for the hitch to work properly? What do you think?

Wazbro · 08-20-2012, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uzzah

But the question is, does the grease need to be completely removed in order for the hitch to work properly? What do you think?

The only problem with the grease would be if it gets onto the brake material that the ball shaft rides in for the sway control. So you would need to remove excessive amounts of grease, but shouldn't be critical to make sure all grease is removed.

idroba · 08-20-2012, 08:44 PM

As others have said, no, to only a tiny amount of grease on the ball is desirable. There is some pitch and yaw but no ball rotation in the coupler socket. You don't want to get the residual grease used with the other hitch system by the PO down the sides of the ball and onto the friction material, so it is probably good to remove as much as possible. That is the only problem with grease on the ball, it tends to move to other places that are not good for the Andersen.

I am glad you have had a positive first experience with the hitch. It is in line with everyone else who has used it and reported here in this thread. It is also nice to know that a new tower and user has had an easy time to set it up.

AWCHIEF · 08-21-2012, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HermitCrab

I purchased my first AS (2007 Safari SE20) a couple of months ago and just picked it up this past weekend. After MUCH internal debate -- and scouring reviews and forums, including this thread -- I took a deep breath and bought the Andersen hitch.

This is my first time ever doing any towing of any kind, so I was extremely apprehensive about the tow experience. I'm also not mechanically inclined; I have trouble putting IKEA kit furniture together. Nevertheless, I managed to get the Andersen assembled and correctly tuned so the trailer and TV were dead level. The instructions that come with the hitch are very clear, even for people like me.

Towing was unexpectedly easy. The trailer behaved perfectly in sync with the TV on a wide variety of road surfaces and a wide range of speeds. Granted, this is coming from someone totally inexperienced, but I'm pretty pleased with this setup so far.

One quick question, though: From what I understand about the mechanics of the Andersen, the ball is supposed to move with the trailer tongue; this is why no grease is required. But if that's the case, then shouldn't the ball be kept free of grease so the ball doesn't slip at all? My AS had previously been used with an Equal-i-zer, so there was a ton of residual grease in the receiver. Should I remove all of this grease in order for the Andersen to work correctly?

Welcome to the forum. It is good to hear from another satisfied Andersen WD Hitch customer. I have not been putting any grease on the ball. There is a bit of scuffing so maybe I should be putting a small amount on. I did call Andersen and ask about using grease and was told it was not necessary, but a small amount would not hurt.

purman · 08-21-2012, 07:28 AM

I would take a rag and get as much grease out as you can. The rest will make its way on to your ball hitch and you can just wipe it off then. This is what I did. It's hard to get it all out, but try and get most off it as best you can. You don't want it working it's way down the the braking sleeve, not that I'm sure it can even work its way into it as its pretty tight.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-21-2012, 11:15 AM

Hi, no-one has mentioned it, but would having some grease on the ball cause it to slip in the coupler, defeating some of the friction of the cone? Or does the chain bracket at the ball prevent this?

AWCHIEF · 08-21-2012, 12:36 PM

Bob, Andersen told me that it would not hurt use a small amount of grease, but that is was not necessary to use any at all.

idroba · 08-21-2012, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, no-one has mentioned it, but would having some grease on the ball cause it to slip in the coupler, defeating some of the friction of the cone? Or does the chain bracket at the ball prevent this?

No, the ball will not slip in the coupler due to any grease. The chains keep virtually all movement at the ball to a minimum. There is some very small pitch and yaw movement only. There could be a very tiny amount of rotational movement due to the bushings on the chains being slightly compressed on one side vs. the other, but all movement at the ball is very very minimal. I do use a tiny amount of grease on the ball simply to alleviate the bare metal to metal contact of the ball to coupler parts. It makes me feel better, but may not be necessary at all.

HermitCrab · 08-22-2012, 05:19 AM

Thanks very much for the input, guys. Much appreciated. I'll scoop out the excess grease in the coupler.

Airtandem · 08-22-2012, 08:39 AM

Hope all of you are right; I ordered mine today
mike

wrochdvm · 08-26-2012, 12:14 PM

O.k.
I've spent the better part of the afternoon reading this thread. I have always been concerned about the forces applied to the AS by WD hitches. I am sure I ignorantly added to the problem by choosing a Ford F250 as TV. The bouncing and vibration actually caused a screws holding the floor to the frame to back out on my first AS. In our current, 28' rear bedroom International, there is so much bounce that clothes hangers never stay on the pole.

I like the idea of the bounce dampening effect of this hitch. It makes sense to me. However,I have Rock Tamer mud flap that attach to the hitch where it goes into the receiver. Does anyone with the Anderson hitch have these flaps or know if there is enough room, about 2 inches for the collar holding the flaps to the hitch to fit?

Thanks for a great discussion
Wayne

purman · 08-26-2012, 12:47 PM

I'm not using one but there is 2.5 inches of room after is comes out of the receiver..

hope this helps.

idroba · 08-26-2012, 12:59 PM

Wayne:

I am siting in a k mart parking lot in Hamilton MT, and read your question about the Rock Tanmer flaps and the hitch. I am hooked up so I went out and looked. There is maybe 4" of shank showing between the hitch box and the drop, but about half or more of that is taken up on the underside by a welded brace, so not sure if it would fit.

When I was at the Andersen factory last month they told me they have had a lot of requests for a longer stinger and were considering making one. You might call the factory and talk to Andrew Porter the VP in charge of sales to see if they have one yet, or would make one special for you. They have done that for at least one person they said.

If you get the Andersen, I think you will like it very much. I sure do, and consider the ride it gives both to the TV and the trailer excellent, as well as towing great.

Bill M. · 08-26-2012, 02:07 PM

"I am sure I ignorantly added to the problem by choosing a Ford F250 as TV."

I know lots of people who pull Airstreams very successfully with Ford 250's without the trailer suffering damage. I suspect you are hitched too stiffly or have a bad imbalance in the running gear. I think the Ford 250 was an great choice for a TV. Maybe your torsion bars are too heavy? Or you are transferring more weight than needed to the front wheels? Or you have 10 ply with 80 psi in them? I pull an older 25' with a 2500 Dodge that is not sprung nearly as well as the Ford and we marvel at how stuff stays in place in the trailer and does not bounce around.

wrochdvm · 08-27-2012, 02:47 PM

Bill M,

I have the correct bars on the Reese, and I have the tension set so that about 40% of the tongue weight is transferred to the front wheels of the TV which gives me a level TV and AS. From what I have read and learned at towing seminars, this should be the correct situation.

While we never travel with someone in the AS, we have from time to time moved the AS across a parking lot with my wife inside. She was astounded at how much shock there is even at such slow speeds. ( She also says she can't see how anyone would leave a pet in the AS while traveling, our dog and cat travel in the full sized crew cab. And, they thank us very much.)

Thanks again for all your input, what a great place to share ideas and get information.