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Old 02-13-2013, 11:07 AM   #1359
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Enough Said

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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
This sounds like a solution to a problem we we do not have, or perhaps a worn -out coupler. When the chains are tensioned, there is no looseness or vibration in my experience (4,000 miles with the Andersen).

doug k
Howies posts # 1275 & 1299 was a real problem to some including myself . I was on the verge of replacing my coupler like some have done. A simple test; next time you hitch up add a washer and latch it. Chances are youíll be able to and not notice any differences which proves my point that a gap exists. If you cannot latch it then your ball is seated all the way to the top of the coupler and locked in as a solid piece which is what the ďno greaseĒ, Andersen Hitch was designed for . The Andersen applies a horizontal slant for WD which puts about 4000 lbs of pressure rearward on the latch shoe and not a vertical or upward pressure on the coupler as most of the conventional couplers were designed to do. Enough said on couplers for me. Letís enjoy the benefits of the Andersen Hitch.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:53 AM   #1360
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easier said than done

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmand001 View Post
Howies posts # 1275 & 1299 was a real problem to some including myself . I was on the verge of replacing my coupler like some have done. A simple test; next time you hitch up add a washer and latch it. Chances are youíll be able to and not notice any differences which proves my point that a gap exists. If you cannot latch it then your ball is seated all the way to the top of the coupler and locked in as a solid piece which is what the ďno greaseĒ, Andersen Hitch was designed for . The Andersen applies a horizontal slant for WD which puts about 4000 lbs of pressure rearward on the latch shoe and not a vertical or upward pressure on the coupler as most of the conventional couplers were designed to do. Enough said on couplers for me. Letís enjoy the benefits of the Andersen Hitch.
I don't think you can say "enough said" until this issue has been resolved. For one thing the company hasn't really said anything that I am aware of. I am keeping an eye on my hitch, which I won't be using for a few months again. Also watching these posts for more feedback on others experiences re "coupler-gate" (yes, I said it). But I hope we get more actual empirical evidence vs theoretical. Frankly all the amateur engineer lectures just give me a headache.

I suppose it's the price we pay for being pioneers.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:30 AM   #1361
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I have a 1965 streamline duke and I upgraded the coupler to a bull dog. I have the Andersen hitch. The last trip was about 800 miles and the hitch worked perfect. When i disconnected the hitch there was a huge groove worn into the upper front of the ball. I contacted Andersen and they sent me a new one. We took a 150 mile trip and the groove is in the new ball. Not sure if it will keep getting a bigger groove, or finally stop the wear after one it is seated.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:23 AM   #1362
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Sounds like the problem is with your coupler. Have you looked to see what is causing the groove.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:00 PM   #1363
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Can you post a pic of the groove?Since the ball does not rotate in the coupler. It would be interesting to see what causes the groove.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:54 PM   #1364
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I have followed this thread since I joined the forum, reading about the advantages of the Andersen hitch, which I concur with, whether there is a problem with the hitch or with a worn out coupler, or if there is a problem at all. I purchased a hitch in January, installed it and last week took my AS on its first trip with this hitch. We went to Big Bend NP, an 800 mile round trip for us. I bought the trailer in December, 2012. It is a 2006 25' Safari. It was in pristine condition, having been used only 6 times. All evidence confirmed the lack of use and wear on the trailer, including the coupler. Also, having been aware of the potential problems with this hitch, I examined the coupler in detail prior to installing and using the hitch. After arriving at the park, I looked at the latch on the coupler and could see what I would term significant wear. On returning home, I saw that the wear had continued to damage the latch on the coupler. It appears to me that the coupler latch cannot continue to sustain this kind of damage and maintain its integrity. The catch will ultimately shear off and allow the ball to not be contained. I do not believe that in my case coupler wear could be culpable in the least for creating this situation. The only other component in the equation is the hitch itself. Does anybody have an explanation?
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:41 PM   #1365
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I just examined the latch on my Airstream and see absolutely zero wear, none. I've used the Andersen hitch 4,000 miles all through the country.

doug k
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #1366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
I just examined the latch on my Airstream and see absolutely zero wear, none. I've used the Andersen hitch 4,000 miles all through the country.
doug k
x2. About 6,000 for me.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #1367
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I have only towed a few hundred miles on my 2013 22' sport, without an Anderson. I have noticed a lot powder coat coming off, etc.

I can't tell in the pictures how much is just powder coat coming off, vs actual metal wear. From my experience, it doesn't take much at all for the powder coat to crack and come off up on the latch anywhere there is rubbing.

-Dwight
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:34 AM   #1368
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Does anyone know if couplers are, I'll call it regulated by the DOT as an independent component?
I don't see any markings like you see on tires for example.
Is the latch on the Atwood coupler a result of a requirement by some branch of the Government? A so called "improvement of design"?
Since the Marvel coupler is apparently no longer produced. I would ask the question. Would Marvel be required to upgrade their design if they were making couplers today?
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:14 AM   #1369
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It seems to me that Attwood needs to upgrade their couplers to the early Marvel produced couplers as they clearly seems the superior design to me.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:15 PM   #1370
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Insights on Andersen/ Atwood

Before lowering the trailer onto the ball insure that the chains arenít tight. The tension bolts ought to be flush with the tension nuts or less and definitely NOT protruding out. Now lower the trailer onto the ball, insuring that the ball has rested touching the TOP of the coupler housing. Latch it down and tighten the chains to your measurements, approximately 7-8 threads showing on the tension bolts. Observe that the latch has not risen and if it did the latch shoe is displaced and not seated ideally as designed. Perhaps this slight rise or displacement of that latch shoe when tightening the tension chains is vital as itís not seated optimally for maximum lateral pressure. At this point the latch shoe is seated and pinned towards the rear of the coupler held by the sum of WD tension applied. The idea here is that the ball and coupler are coupled as a unit, no movement, hence no grease necessary. Are there strong enough forces to cause a movement within the coupler? The high-density urethane spring will vary in tension as the trailer moves, by its nature as a dampening spring. It dampens these movements by expansions and compressions from any movement while on the road, (anti-bounce), feature. The chains will react to these movements but keeping the latch shoe still pinned tightly because the tension is constantly there. For people seeing wear the ball moves within the coupler grabbing the latch shoe along. For people that do not see a problem, their ball is solidly fused with the latch shoe as if theyíre welded together and the high-density urethane spring takes up or dampens all if not most of the movement along w/ car, trailer shocks, tires and so on. That ball/coupler moving as one held only by friction from thousands of pounds of pressure mustíve been difficult to achieve on couplers designed for movement thus packed with grease by the Andersen engineers. The tension applied by the WD of the Andersen is strong enough to hold the Atwood shoe in place with little to no movement for most users. Thus far it seems that way for this revolutionary hitch. It will take a lot of folks having problems before Andersen does anything or heaven forbid a major catastrophe on the road by one which is unlikely because of trailer safety brakes and chains. HowieDís idea , post #1299, of drilling a hole through the coupler and pinning that latch shoe in place is what the Andersen WD tension is intended to do on itís own.

Later this year I will post my experiences on just adding steel washers above the ball to eliminate or minimize any internal ball/coupler movement with the Andersen.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:06 PM   #1371
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All things considered I wonder if it might be a good idea to put a light coat of grease on the back of the ball to minimize any friction caused by vibration between the ball and the latch. Just a thought.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #1372
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dmand001, I just don't see the problem you describe, nor subscribe to these solutions to a problem we don't have. Are you sure you're just not dealing with a worn-out coupler?

Also, I do believe there is intended to be some vertical motion at the ball when going down the road, must be. The urethane bushings are there to dampen this motion.

Rich, although Andersen says grease is not needed, I do spray the chain tubes with a shot of lube, and wipe a bit on the ball before each use. I suspect too much lube could come down onto the friction surfaces, but I don't know if it could go into them.

doug k
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