The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

On a little three hundred mile tow up from South Texas yesterday, I made a discovery of sorts. I started out with the Andersen pretty well maxed out for front axle load transfer. There was a quartering 15-20 mph northeast wind which affected me some but not bad. Half way through the trip, I reduced the bushing compression by about half. The drivability improved quite a bit. The steering went from feeling stiff and somewhat rigid to much more like it is when not towing. I did not notice any change in trailer control, just more relaxed steering. May not have any factual reason, just a personal preference.

Please tell us what you were towing and towing with. When you say Max Out is that against fender height or scale weight?

It is becoming increasingly clear that it is not necessarily true that WEIGHT has to be moved forward to the extent that older WD hitches have called for. As long as you are not lifting the front axle and changing the steering geometry

This hold unless you are towing with a very lightly sprung TV and have to get tongue weight off the rear axle. Not a common situation these days with most of us towing with some form of truck.

[Rendrag]

I was towing a 6,000 pound travel trailer with a Silverado 1500. I went from about .38 inch compression to .20 inch or one half as much. I am only getting about .75 inch rise without WD and less than .50 with. It certainly "felt" better, but it could be just me. (My girlfriend was following in her Airstream Interstate)

[OrangeKid]

We just picked up our new 2013 Flying Cloud 23D. We had an Anderson hitch installed and had the Atwood 88000 series coupler replaced with a Quickbite 7700XT. The Anderson hitch package included two inserts. The first warns against using the Anderson hitch with a Atwood 88000 series coupler. The second insert discusses a "new feature" of the Anderson hitch.

[dkottum]

I am upset Andersen has not tracked us Atwood users down to warn us of this potential hitch coupler failure. If not for this forum I would be totally unaware of it.

We have several thousand miles planned, starting next week. Although the Andersen performance has been remarkable, I'm not taking any more risks with it and will install a Propride hitch when it arrives in a few days.

I am going to ask for a full refund of the Andersen because it is not compatible with my Airstream and was not forewarned; we'll see how that goes after 2,000 miles journey home next week (with the Propride attached, Andersen in a box). I'll keep all informed.

doug k

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

On a little three hundred mile tow up from South Texas yesterday, I made a discovery of sorts. I started out with the Andersen pretty well maxed out for front axle load transfer. There was a quartering 15-20 mph northeast wind which affected me some but not bad. Half way through the trip, I reduced the bushing compression by about half. The drivability improved quite a bit. The steering went from feeling stiff and somewhat rigid to much more like it is when not towing. I did not notice any change in trailer control, just more relaxed steering. May not have any factual reason, just a personal preference.

If you are loosening the Andersen w.d. chains, you are lightening the weight on your steering axle. Although it may "feel" more relaxed, it is because the steering is too light. The danger is if you come upon slippery roadways you may not be able to control the vehicle.

So keep you weight distribution in full effect, and compare loaded/unloaded measurements of weight or fender heights to be sure you have restored the unloaded weight to the front of your vehicle after hooking up to the trailer.

Some have stated here it is not possible achieve full weight distribution with the Andersen. This may or may not be true in some cases, but my faith in the Andersen slipped a cog or two after the incompatible Atwood hitch decoupling situation that we were not, and still not have been warned of.

doug k

[kscherzi]

Originally Posted by OrangeKid

We just picked up our new 2013 Flying Cloud 23D. We had an Anderson hitch installed and had the Atwood 88000 series coupler replaced with a Quickbite 7700XT. The Anderson hitch package included two inserts. The first warns against using the Anderson hitch with a Atwood 88000 series coupler. The second insert discusses a "new feature" of the Anderson hitch.

This stinks. I bought my hitch in anticipation of getting my trailer later this month, no note of incompatibility. I love the light weight but hate the just admitted incompatibility more. I guess I need to seek a refund. I need something to get the trailer home.

[msmcv51]

I have an Andersen and replaced the atwood with a quickbite before all this incompatability talk started. The cost to change both was much less than either a propride or a hensley. I was going for the weight reduction and easy of hookup, and that my wife may have to hookup should I become injuried. I found the quickbite on e-bay for $49.95 + $30.00 shipping plus the cost of breakfeast for my brother-in-law (a state ceirtified welder) to do the welding. To date I have only towed about 25 miles, but the ride is much better than the old reese. With the Andersen I can bring the front of my truck back down to the unloaded wheel opening height. If I were kscheri I think would either use the atwood to get the trailer home then have the coupler changed or have the coupler changed before I picked up the trailer.

[Rendrag]

I knew going in that the Andersen was new and that the company had no way of testing it with every brand and age of equipment out there. It works well for me and the pluses outweigh the negatives. Actually, I have no negatives unless long term use shows that my particular coupler is not compatible. I had a wife like that once. With Chevrolet (and Ford) revising their requirements for weight distribution hitches, I am right there, with nominal compression of the bushing(3/16"-1/4"). As mentioned above, I found the steering somewhat stiff and sluggish with one hundred percent front axle weight restoration and very good at fifty percent.

[AWCHIEF]

Rendrag, what trailer and TV do you have?

Observation: So far everything is OK with my combination of the Bambi II and the F150 w/Ecoboost. Having a smaller, lighter and older trailer seems to be best combination. The original Marvel on my trailer is a solid cast hunk of iron.

[gmw photos]

Originally Posted by Rendrag

I knew going in that the Andersen was new and that the company had no way of testing it with every brand and age of equipment out there. It works well for me and the pluses outweigh the negatives. Actually, I have no negatives unless long term use shows that my particular coupler is not compatible. I had a wife like that once. With Chevrolet (and Ford) revising their requirements for weight distribution hitches, I am right there, with nominal compression of the bushing(3/16"-1/4"). As mentioned above, I found the steering somewhat stiff and sluggish with one hundred percent front axle weight restoration and very good at fifty percent.

I'm curious, have you run it across the scales ? Thanks for any further info you can provide. It does seem like an interesting hitch.

george

[Rendrag]

No scales, yet. I am having too much fun camping in the Hill Country of Texas to enjoy visiting a truck stop scale. All adjustments and measurements are per the instructions in the 2013 Silverado Owner's Manual. Chevrolet (and Ford) have changed their thinking on hitches recently. I have found that half the front axle weight replacement that they now require works for me. Might not for everyone though.

[star kitty]

I cannot remove the pin that connects the triangular plate to the hitch?

From day one, it has never come out. I've had to remove the chains from the bushings side to uncouple the trailer.

I've taken a mallet and tried to strike it but its in there good.

Is there something I'm missing? I know the videos shows that pin coming out with tremendous ease.

[HowieE]

The pin won't come out if you have full tension on the chains. either jack up the trailer to reduce the tension or back off on the chains. If this works you have solved the problem if not try the following.

Once you get it out with a hammer or what ever look at the pin to make sure it is not bent, not likely but check anyway.

Some thing you might check first is to see if you can put the plate on first by turning it over and then by reversing so the plate is facing forward. If turning it over works you are home free. If reversing it works you can turn the hitch over in the receiver and drive the ball shaft out and turn it around. If you have to do this makes sure you mark the ball before removing it so you know which way to put it back.

If the above does not solve the problem and you have a drill bit set measure the diameter of the pin and chase the hole, with the plate in place, with the smallest bit over the pin diameter. The plate and shaft holes may be just a bit off center to each other.

Once the pin is out it is a common problem to have trouble dropping the plate because the shaft and plate gall together. I put paraffin wax in the plate hole to reduce this problem. Don't use grease it attracts dirt.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by star kitty

I cannot remove the pin that connects the triangular plate to the hitch?

From day one, it has never come out. I've had to remove the chains from the bushings side to uncouple the trailer.

I've taken a mallet and tried to strike it but its in there good.

Is there something I'm missing? I know the videos shows that pin coming out with tremendous ease.

It should come out very easily, so there is some problem here with your specific pieces of hitch equipment. Contact Andersen.

[star kitty]

Originally Posted by HowieE

The pin won't come out if you have full tension on the chains. either jack up the trailer to reduce the tension or back off on the chains. If this works you have solved the problem if not try the following.

Once you get it out with a hammer or what ever look at the pin to make sure it is not bent, not likely but check anyway.

Some thing you might check first is to see if you can put the plate on first by turning it over and then by reversing so the plate is facing forward. If turning it over works you are home free. If reversing it works you can turn the hitch over in the receiver and drive the ball shaft out and turn it around. If you have to do this makes sure you mark the ball before removing it so you know which way to put it back.

If the above does not solve the problem and you have a drill bit set measure the diameter of the pin and chase the hole, with the plate in place, with the smallest bit over the pin diameter. The plate and shaft holes may be just a bit off center to each other.

Once the pin is out it is a common problem to have trouble dropping the plate because the shaft and plate gall together. I put paraffin wax in the plate hole to reduce this problem. Don't use grease it attracts dirt.

Have you had problems too? Was this put together incorrectly? I don't know how it could have been....just a hole and a pin.

[HowieE]

My first assumption is it is just that you still have chain tension on the plate. I offered the other comments in case that was not the problem and there is a mechanical misalignment.

[TG Twinkie]

If you can get your hands on a block of wood. Hold it against the pin on the end where the hair pin goes. Take a good size hammer (metal) and give the block a good hard smack.
You don't want to pound on the pin directly with the hammer. It may distort the end of the pin.
I will assume you didn't have to drive the pin in when you first assembled the hitch.
Did you encounter snow and salted roads on your way west. If so, the pin may just be stuck by the road grime.
If you can get the pin to move a little, then tap it back and fourth and see if it will free up. If you happen to have some penetrating oil. Give it a good shot.

[msmcv51]

Originally Posted by star kitty

I cannot remove the pin that connects the triangular plate to the hitch?

From day one, it has never come out. I've had to remove the chains from the bushings side to uncouple the trailer.

I've taken a mallet and tried to strike it but its in there good.

Is there something I'm missing? I know the videos shows that pin coming out with tremendous ease.

I could not get the pin in with either the plate or the coller. I contacted Andersen and they sent me new of each along with a new hitch ball. Seems that they were running such close tolerances that the most miner variance kept thing from going togather. Now everything is working fine and I am very happy with the hitch.

[star kitty]

Originally Posted by msmcv51

I could not get the pin in with either the plate or the coller. I contacted Andersen and they sent me new of each along with a new hitch ball. Seems that they were running such close tolerances that the most miner variance kept thing from going togather. Now everything is working fine and I am very happy with the hitch.

When we put the hitch together, we noticed it was difficult as well. But now that it's together, its not wanting to come apart.

I'll try TGTwinkie's recommendation and see if I can't get it apart.

I have contacted Andersen....and they did not return my call.

On a positive note, I was psyched to see my Marvel coupler is compatible with their equipment!

But otherwise unimpressed with it so far. I purchased it for its ease of use...but its proven to be a bit finicky.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by star kitty

When we put the hitch together, we noticed it was difficult as well. But now that it's together, its not wanting to come apart.

What did it take to put the pin in during the original installation? Did it slide in or have to be hammered in?

I am not sure I buy this manufacturing tolerance theses. If that were the case there would be dozens, if not more individuals having this problem. Once a production machinist set up a machine he is not making just one part. You might see a problem with the plates as the weld can distort the collar as they are joined but the collar and the ball shaft are straight forward mechanical parts.

Most manufactures have some form of quality testing for the fit of mechanical parts. Now that is not often 100% testing but even a 10% test procedure would flag a bad shipment.