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DreamStreamr · 03-15-2013, 12:52 PM

After reading idrobas very well-written posts about setting up and using his Andersen, I am sold on it. We like our current set up but appreciate the weight reduction from our bars and hitch head. The Andersen looks easier to latch up and release than ours too. Thanks for sharing all this info, everyone.

And Howie, thanks for starting a great thread.

HowieE · 03-15-2013, 02:18 PM

DreamStreamr

Your comments about the durability of the QB are appropriate and supportive to this tread with the exception about the opening at the rear of the coupling jaws. It is not a 100 degree opening but closer to a 20 degree opening. Thus leaving 160 degrees of potential contact rearward to support the ball when using an Andersen system. If it were 100 degrees FloridaLarry's comments and questions of forward creep would be legit and understandable.

However your comments about the Equalizer its receiver problems and it's destructive effects on the rivets of your trailer are quite misleading to anyone considering the Andersen and should be noted to those reading this tread. Most of the Andersen users that have posted here have commented on the improved smoothness of the ride to both the TV and the TT.

DreamStreamr · 03-16-2013, 06:23 AM

Howie,

I agree completely about the opening at the back of the jaws -- realized after I posted it I was completely wrong on that. Anyone can look at the very good post #1455 to see the picture of the opening at back of jaws -- You are absolutely right about the back-jaw opening being small.

I further agree the Andersen would certainly smooth out the ride for both my truck AND my trailer. I was admitting I have a stiff setup, something well established on these forums, by using the 1,000 pound bars for a 25' trailer behind a 2500HD truck. Perhaps you misunderstand my comment about my set up. My statement, verbatim, is:

"I'm using 1,000# bars on the Equalizer, installed new on this trailer in 2006.
And yes, we occasionally pop rivets on rough roads."

This statement is in no way reflecting upon what someone with an Andersen experiences. Rather, it correctly expresses almost seven years towing with my current WD hitch. I seriously doubt anyone paying the least attention could be mislead about the stiffness of my WD hitch as I reference it in my post.

I am looking forward to trying the Andersen with my QB. Thanks again for starting this fascinating thread. Great info for learning about the Andersen hitch.

DreamStreamr · 03-16-2013, 12:23 PM

I'm going to have to postpone trying the Andersen Weight Distributing hitch. I just researched it for price info. Is it really $500? I was expecting lower cost based upon comments above. The Andersen is apparently the same purchase price as the wd hitch I already have. Too much to afford two.

If I didn't already own a fully functioning WD hitch, I would definitely try the Andersen. Or if I could sell the equalizer, then fine. Well, you guys sold me so well on the Andersen. We are definitely interested when we need to buy a new wd hitch.

idroba · 03-16-2013, 12:58 PM

I think you can find it on line for $400 or less.

floridalarry · 03-16-2013, 06:49 PM

For those of you who are planning to order an Andersen, be sure you do not have an Atwood (Marvel) 88010 coupler. The hitch will not work with it. See attached, which shows the Marvel cutout (lower left). The reward force of the Andersen with force the paw back, the shank up and the shank will shear off the front part of the shark fin. The paw will then be on the middle top of the ball and will not hold the coupler on the ball. I learned by experience.

Rendrag · 03-16-2013, 08:44 PM

Call me stupid, but I cannot find "88010" anywhere on the pdf. Is the "88010" a current model? I don't think I have one, but want to make sure.

Rendrag · 03-16-2013, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreamStreamr

I'm going to have to postpone trying the Andersen Weight Distributing hitch. I just researched it for price info. Is it really $500? .................................................. .........

I was in the same boat and managed to sell my old hitch for half the price of a new Andersen. I am glad I did. I searched for used ones. I contacted one guy who complained about his Andersen online and even he did not want to sell. Good luck.

floridalarry · 03-17-2013, 06:23 AM

The exploded view of the Atwood(Marvel) 88010 is shown on the attached H2.PDF. the reference numbers refer to the repair kits for the 88010. I have also attached a form that shows all the Atwood couplers (H4.PDF). Note the width of the 88010 (10-3/8") and the 91911 and 91912 (10-7/8"), the preferred couplers by Andersen.

If you have a 88010 and want to replace it with a 91911/12, the 91911/12 will sit 1/2" further back on the frame. You would then have to cut off and move the jack support on the bottom of the frame. Having the coupler back 1/2" may impact the propane cover and tanks. I have asked Atwood that if I have a 1/4" thick plate welted to each side of the frame and then weld the 91911 to it, would that worked. They said yes.

I'm still waiting for someone who has a QuickBite to post the width dimensions of the rear of the hitch. This will determine if I have to modify my frame. If it is 10-3/8", everything will line up.

sandhill3000 · 03-17-2013, 07:34 AM

I have a 2013 19' Bambi. I can't see the model number of the coupler because the base plate of the tongue jack covers it.

I installed the Anderson hitch on it and we are leaving on our first trip tomorrow but after all of these discussions about what will work and what won't I am a bit confused.

Is there a chance that I might have the above mentioned Atwood (Marvel) 88010 coupler on this trailer? Am I okay with this hitch on this trailer or not?

- a somewhat confused newbie...

dkottum · 03-17-2013, 08:56 AM

I cannot make heads or tails of the Atwood/Marvin coupler failure/solutions postings here.

doug k

SteveH · 03-17-2013, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkottum

I cannot make heads or tails of the Atwood/Marvin coupler failure/solutions postings here.

doug k

Doug, Since you seem to be having success with the Andersen and your Airstream, it would be nice to hear just what coupler your trailer is equipped with.

dkottum · 03-17-2013, 09:12 AM

Steve, I don't know what the coupler is, no marking that I see. No problems at 4,000 miles, another 2,000 planned next month.

doug

afneill · 03-17-2013, 09:17 AM

While a lot has been written about failures of the 88010 hitch, failing by shearing off the catch on the fin, I am not sure how many actual failures there have been. I think both floridalarry and Howie have experienced those type failures. Unless I am wrong, Larry's assertion that the Andersen hitch will not work with the 88010 hitch is based on his experiences and not a directive from Andersen. If that is incorrect I'm sure I will be called on it. I think how well the Andersen hitch and the 88010 coupler work together and how long they last is dependent on several factors. It would include trailer size and weight, including variations in tongue weight, type of tow vehicle and its suspension, the amount of wear and condition of the coupler itself, type of roads the towing is done on, possibly the angle of the trailer in relation to the tow vehicle, knowing that the trailer is never exactly level, and other factors that could best be described as intangibles.
In an attempt to preclude further wear on the fin catch and an eventual shearing possibility, I have welded it to the end so that in essence the pressure is transferred to the latch itself. That may cause excessive wear on that component but it is included in replacement kit that I carry with me. I am doing this for a couple of reasons. I like the Andersen hitch and the way it provides a softer, smoother ride to the trailer. Also I am waiting for Andersen to have time to devise and provide suggestions for any alterations they might deem reasonable or necessary.
While this may not answer your questions or concerns, it is my current assessment of the situation.
.

SteveH · 03-17-2013, 09:20 AM

Doug, That looks just like the coupler on our trailer, and guess what.....I can't find manufacturer or model number either.

However, I think it's one of the Atwoods, and if the rod goes down into the coupler when it is hitched, the lever slides rearward when locked, I'm almost possitive it's the Atwood, but of course, don't know the model no.

At this point, I would be very leary of using the Andersen with any coupler that has a pawl that slides down to lock, because the force applied to the coupler by the Andersen is back and up....just the direction of force required to break the latching "sharkfin" lock, provided the force is great enough.

dkottum · 03-17-2013, 09:45 AM

Steve, it's hard for me to imagine this coupler is safe for any hard braking situations if it's not safe for use with Andersen hitch, because the force is similar on the coupler for both.

Are we looking at an Andersen hitch problem, Atwood coupler problem, compatibility problem, worn-out coupler problem, or no problem at all?

I can't find a problem on my setup at this point, but I'm keeping an eye on it.

doug k

HowieE · 03-17-2013, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afneill

In an attempt to preclude further wear on the fin catch and an eventual shearing possibility, I have welded it to the end so that in essence the pressure is transferred to the latch itself.
.

Can you elaborate on this a bit more as to where you weld what?

As for the number of those posting here have changed out there coupling it is more than 2 of us and another one is scheduled for tomorrow.

Keep in mind if you are putting on a new coupler position it to SAVE the lower jack stand hole rather than cutting that plate off and rewelding it. This insures no problem with the gas tanks. Post #1396 shows this in detail

HowieE · 03-17-2013, 10:58 AM

Details of this are shown on post #1396 and #1415

afneill · 03-17-2013, 11:35 AM

Howie,
As soon as I get the opportunity, I will post a photo showing the weld. Have all those who have or are replacing the coupler done so because the fin catch has sheared off? Or have some done so as a preventative measure? Also do you know the condition or age of the coupler they replaced?

HowieE · 03-17-2013, 12:08 PM

Can't say for all that have posted as some of those posting here did so before I had my problem. I know of 4 that have replaced their couplers with QBs because of the shark fin shearing off.