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Old 03-02-2013, 12:01 PM   #1461
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Thanks Howie. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the Quickbite is bad, or that it won't work...just saying from what I've seen, the Bulldog that clamps around the ball from the side is the strongest.

Bulldog company makes another coupler that looks very strong also, is rated for even more weight than their original design coupler, but it has a pawl setup that slides downward to couple onto the ball like the Atwood, which I think is not such a good idea because of what I stated before, the vectored forces involved.

The Quikbite does seem to be the easiest coupler to use, however. Like everything else, it's almost impossible to get everything in one design.

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Old 03-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #1462
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Hitch Pin Hole Question

Going through the setup of my new Anderson I noticed that the hole drilled in the hitch (the part that slides into the receiver) is located just 2" from the end. Due to the location of the pin hole on the receiver, also 2" from the end, causes the hitch to extend beyond the rear of the receiver somewhat.

The square receiver tube has a length of 6", yet due to the placement of the pinhole on the hitch, only 4" of the hitch is inserted into the receiver. Is this normal? Has anybody tried drilling a new pinhole in their hitch so the hitch can slide fully back into the receiver?



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Old 03-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #1463
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There is no reason to change that relationship. Some receavers are only 4 in. deep to begin with.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #1464
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kscherzi.... With traditional WDH's it is common practice to redrill the shank to get the ball as close to the back bumper as possible. For performance it is the right thing to do.



With the Andrsn ?????
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #1465
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I also had concerns about the amount of ball mount that enters the receiver along with the 2" extension beyond the back of the receiver.
I welded an extension on to the ball mount using a piece I cut off of an old ball mount. The extension protrudes far enough thru the receiver the I could put a second pin thru the ball mount. The second pin does not go thru a hole in the receiver, but it would prevent the ball mount from sliding out of the receiver should the primary pin come out.
Belts and suspenders for me.
I left the 2" extension out the back of the receiver. I built a rack to hold mud flaps to protect the front of the trailer from rocks and other material slung up by the TV tires.
It's a simple device that slides onto the ball mount prior to installing it in the receiver.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #1466
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Twinkie do you have any photos of you mods and the mud flaps?
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:58 AM   #1467
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AWCHIEF;
I will take picks today and post them later.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:44 PM   #1468
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Mud Flaps

Extension of the ball mount before painting.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...tExtension.jpg

Square tubing and mounting bracket.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...cketDetail.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...mBallMount.jpg

Secondary Pin.
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...inLocation.jpg

Top View.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...er/TopView.jpg

Finished Product.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../RockTamer.jpg
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:56 PM   #1469
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Twinkie, nice job on the mud flaps. I just might have to try something like that myself.

*While I am not sure that all of the modifications and changes that some are making are entirely necessary, their inventiveness and resourcefulness is quite amazing. I think that some people including myself just like to tinker. I can be guilty of over thinking a project and end up making it more complicated than need be or see a problem where none actually exist.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #1470
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One thing that bothers me about the receiver on the Tundra. It seems a bit large. Larger than the standard 2" box tubing I used for the mud flap mount. It's only a few thousands, but the ball mount can move more than I have seen in previous receivers. While I know the pin (bolt in my case) does most of the lateral force work.
It turned out that I could cut the extension I made from an old ball mount that I could cut it in such a way that the secondary pin could be used. Can't hurt,
For those who might ask:
The wall thickness on the box tubing is .233".
The angle iron is 1 1/4" with a flange thickness of .187".
The angle iron is 78" in length.
I used 1/4"x20 x1" bolts with Nyloc nuts to mount the flaps.
The flaps are 25" wide. The bolts are spaced on 2 3/4" centers. Roughly.

By the way. When I tried to post these pics as a group of 6. I managed to screw up pics that were posted with Photobucket in this and other threads here. So now the pics on my posts don't match the comments. I don't know if a moderator can fix my mistake by resetting the post I made to a previous time.
So if anyone has a question, I'll post new pics.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:45 PM   #1471
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This may solve your rattle problem

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Old 03-05-2013, 07:04 PM   #1472
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Thanks! HowieE
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:19 AM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Here's a picture of the Quickbite closed that shows the void, or gap if you will, of the jaw material in the back when the hitch is closed around the ball. This is just the point where the Andersen weight distribution hitch applies the pressure to the ball to achieve weight distribution.
This may explain some of the problems I encountered. I would notice that after hitching up and and compressing the bushings, my trailer appeared to creep closer to the hitch shank. In fact, I started noticing that the very form of my quickbite had the paint wore off it and the hitch shank was showing signs of wear. When first hooked up, the quick bite has over 1/2" clearance from the shank. After arriving at some destinations, I was finding less than an 1/8" of clearance and was sure rubbing was occurring on turns. I ended up grinding about an additional 1/2" off the front of the quickbite to compensate.
Has anyone else with a quickbite experienced this issue?
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:20 AM   #1474
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Interesting question.
When I got home from my last trip I did notice the closeness of the Quickbite to the hitch. After your post I went out and hitched up in the drive. This picture shows the relationship just after hitching. Less than an 1/8 in. Even given this closeness there is no sign of contact between the Quickbite and the hitch after 900 miles.
Click image for larger version

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I did not tow but did insert an extra ball just to see if there was room for any movement. A 2 5/16 ball has less than 1/32 of play when clamped in the hitch.
Click image for larger version

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If you are seeing a 1/2 in of movement I would ask that you check the ball size against the coupler size.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:19 AM   #1475
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Interesting question.
When I got home from my last trip I did notice the closeness of the Quickbite to the hitch. After your post I went out and hitched up in the drive. This picture shows the relationship just after hitching. Less than an 1/8 in. Even given this closeness there is no sign of contact between the Quickbite and the hitch after 900 miles.
Attachment 180326

I did not tow but did insert an extra ball just to see if there was room for any movement. A 2 5/16 ball has less than 1/32 of play when clamped in the hitch.
Attachment 180327

If you are seeing a 1/2 in of movement I would ask that you check the ball size against the coupler size.
Interesting. I know my ball reads 2 5/16. I am also compressing my bushings to less than 1/2 inch and am wondering if a bumpy road or steep approach may allow the ball to find some opening in the hitch????

It is the ball that came with the Andersen Hitch.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:59 AM   #1476
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Can you post some pictures. A 1/2 in. compression on the bushings is huge. Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

What is your trailer?

I don't have a picture of the bushings loaded but I think it is less than 3/16 with my 34 fter.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #1477
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I think the compression of the bushings is the problem. When I set my hitch up. I don't go by the 7 thread rule that Andersen has in the instructions. Since I had to extend the chains to get everything together, the 7 thread rule went out the window.
When tensioning the chains. I compress the urethane bushing until I can measure 3" between the BLACK washer welded to the square tube and the outside of the silver washer on the other end of the bushing. I make both sides the same.
If the coupler is not perfectly square with the trailer, which mine isn't. By using the thread count, you get one side tighter than the other.
I did have a problem in the last campground. Because the space I rented was uphill. But the space leveled out where the TV was setting to hitch up. This meant that the rear end of the TV was higher relative to the coupler when compared to hitching on a level flat surface.
In order to hitch up, I had to raise the coupler quite a bit higher (2"-3") than normal to back under it. Plus I was slightly out of square with the trailer.
To resolve the elevation and out of square issue. I just pulled the rig onto a flat surface and set up the WD hitch. It did require jacking the trailer tongue up to set the bushing tension. But it all went smoothly.
My question on the interference problem with the Quickbite coupler. Why not cut the portion of the adjustable ball mount off?
The other question is. Why is the Quickbite creeping forward? The jaws must be opening slightly at the front when the pressure of the WD is applied. It wouldn't take much of an opening for it to come forward 3/8".
My trailer is 26' with 700#'s tongue weight. I haven't seen any problems with the Marvel coupler/ Andersen hitch combination as of yet with 600+ miles of towing. But I'm keeping a very close eye on things.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:37 PM   #1478
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Can you post some pictures. A 1/2 in. compression on the bushings is huge. Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

What is your trailer?

I don't have a picture of the bushings loaded but I think it is less than 3/16 with my 34 fter.

How do I post pictures??
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #1479
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First. You need to resize the pics you want. I believe the max is 1280 p.
If you are on a desk top. Open the "reply" box. Not the quick reply. Look for the paper clip. A screen will pop up with 4 browse buttons. Select "browse" and pick the picture you want. Repeat the steps for each pic.
Then hit the "upload" button.
I'm pretty sure I got it right.
If you are not on a Desktop or Laptop. Someone else will have to chime in.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #1480
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If you just want to post a single picture. As mentioned above, go to the paper clip in the tool bar above where you are typing your comment. Once the paper clip is open you will see a drop down box with a place to Browse for your picture. Select a picture or pictures from your pictures folder and hit upload. The picture will be displayed right where you are in your comment. You can now continue typing below the picture if you have additional comments.

If you want to display more than one picture and have comments appear between the picture do this. When you open the Reply option scroll down past the Submit Reply until you see Manage Attachments. Click on that. It will open the same drop down box and you can select and load your pictures. The difference is when you click on the paper clip it will present all of the pictures you have load in this secession of Manage Attachments and allow you to select the one you want at this point in your post. The continue typing until you want the next picture.
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