The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[TG Twinkie]

That's the difference between the Atwood and the Marvel. There is no notch on the lift bar. When you look at the photo I took of the latch mechanism, you can see the difference. The fin on the Atwood above the plate is "A" shaped. The fin on the Marvel is back from the lift bar. The lift bar must lock into place by contacting the top plate. I would have to disasseble it to be certain.
All good info.

[TG Twinkie]

I went out and looked at the lift bar on the Marvel. Instead of having a "V" shaped notch in the bar, it has the reverse. The lift bar is wider below top plate and can not come up thru the top plate. It's range of travel is limited by the top plate. There is no spring mechanism pushing the lift bar in the horizontal direction. The lift bar for the Atwood coupler would not work for the Marvel coupler.

[dmand001]

Again another great helpful forum info. It's cleared the issue that the Atwood and the Andersen trailer hitch are not compatible, at least be for warned and be diligent on a close eye on your Atwood. Hope other couplers will work but as in anything new time will tell.

[TG Twinkie]

Take a look at the photo by AirHeadRus on 2/5/13. The lift rod has no notch or any visible means of preventing the pawl from raising. Any ideas?
HowieE. What is the rating of the Atwood coupler?
The Franklin coupler I have on the utility trailer came off of an old mobile home.
There are literally thousands of these old mobile homes in this area. I will see if I can locate one with a coupler like the Marvel or Franklin. Take the parts off and post pics here.
I really don't want to tear mine apart simply for pics.

[crisen]

Here are the instructions from Atwood for the repair kit, step 5 and 6 have a cross section view of the parts. This repair kit is for currently listed 88007 and 88010 2 5/16" A frame flip latch couplers.

If you study the parts and how they work together, there appears to be plenty of opportunities for wear to cause less than full engagement of the notch in the shoe lock with the mating 'fin'. If the notch in the shoe lock assembly is not fully engaging the fin it could certainly shear off.

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/80658.pdf

[idroba]

Originally Posted by dmand001

Again another great helpful forum info. It's cleared the issue that the Atwood and the Andersen trailer hitch are not compatible, at least be for warned and be diligent on a close eye on your Atwood. Hope other couplers will work but as in anything new time will tell.

I am sorry, I don't agree that the Atwood and Andersen are not compatible. My original Atwood worked fine with my Andersen, but I replaced it due to a cracked inner cup from the many miles of use prior to the Andersen. There was no ball coming out issue. My new Atwood also works fine.

From what I can read, and tell, there has been no issue of any ball disconnect causing any problem on the road. The total hitch weight is still carried on the ball while towing and hooked up. I see no way the ball can come out while hooked up and towing.

[TG Twinkie]

Since this is my first time using the Andersen WD System. Even though I don't have an Atwood coupler. The coupler in the photo is a Marvel.
I came up with the idea of installing a safety chain over the tongue. Just in case.
Since the plate rotates with the coupler, the chain over the tongue won't get tangled. Rated at 500#, the chain will prevent the coupler from lifting high enough to get off of the ball in the unlikely event that it would uncouple.


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...an88/photo.jpg

[dmand001]

TG Twinkie,
Good idea there, preventing the TT from hitting the road in case the latch pops upwards. Why not chain it over the latch? Gives it a safety feature like the
Atwood "V" notch supposedly does. The Atwood is the Upgrade to the Marvel. Only a spring is holding the Marvel latch down while the Atwood has that added
"V" notch safety feature, look what the Andersen did to it as in Howies' case? Hope the Quickbite is a solution. Some here seem to think so. Hope to hear
more comments. Howie will go w/ the Quickbite so will hope to hear his take on it. Just too bad that we have to deal w/ this but glad now than later on the
road. I will have to make the plunge real soon as I have a month long trip coming. There will always be issues in trailering but prevention and peace of mind
makes it more enjoyable. Glad that there's an open forum where discussions are plentiful and eventually resolving issues.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by dmand001

Again another great helpful forum info. It's cleared the issue that the Atwood and the Andersen trailer hitch are not compatible, at least be for warned and be diligent on a close eye on your Atwood. Hope other couplers will work but as in anything new time will tell.

Huh? That's quite a leap of assumption.

If the Andersen is not compatible with Atwood couplers because of the forward pull of the chains, then Atwood couplers are not compatible with any hard braking situations with any hitch?

doug k

[TG Twinkie]

The trailer brakes, if set up properly should be equal to or slightly more aggressive than the TV brakes. Therefore keeping the trailer behind the TV, not pushing on it.
I'm not saying that the Atwood is not compatible. As with all hitch components, it should be monitored closely.

[dkottum]

So if my trailer brakes are not set up right, or fail, my Atwood coupler may come unhooked?

doug k

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by dkottum

So if my trailer brakes are not set up right, or fail, my Atwood coupler may come unhooked?

doug k

I don't think anyone has said that. Awfull lot of assumptions being put out as fact ln this thread.

[dkottum]

Thanks Chief, that's my point as well.

doug k
MCPO USN retired

[polarlyse]

We are currently on our first outing using our new Anderson hitch AND new Directlink controller. LIFE IS GOOD. Brakes work much smoother than our former brake unit. I like the hitch so far. We have made, so far, approx. 700 miles leaving NJ before the onset of the storm. I really had only one complaint about my old hitch and that was the bars falling out of the sockets unexpectedly. Maybe two complaints. They were also very heavy to insert into the hitch sockets. As far as towing with it it was fine. I find the new Anderson to be, at least, equal in it's tow ability. I find no noticeable sway at highway speed and when passing trucks. Have not encountered any significant cross winds on this trip yet but I wouldn't expect a problem there either. I like the fact that's it's lighter and easy to hook up. All in all I'm a happy camper so far with my new STUFF.
I do plan to come up with a better connection for the chains. I don't care for the clevis from China and will get something better. The rest of the hitch I feel is top shelf. I had ordered a slightly longer tow bar from Anderson so that my tailgate will open. All's good with that. The extra 2" of length does not seem to compromise the towing physics.
So far so good. As the miles accumulate I will keep an eye out for the coupler issues and correct things as needed. I unhooked yesterday for the first time and found it very simple to unscrew the chains and then remove the triangle plate and avoid the catastrophic problems encountered earlier by Howie. SIMPLE IS GOOD.

See ya'll on the road sometime.

[dmand001]

Spent time this wkend on studying working w/ the Andersen and coupler. I think that a fix is possible for the ball
from being dislodged. I noticed that the Andersen 2-5/6" ball has a flattened top and possibly even slightly shorter
compared to my old ball. I also noticed the play or gap between the top of the ball to the bottom top of the coupler
which is about 1". I thought, "why not minimize that play gap some or fill it up with little to no play at all but
still keeping the shoe, claw in place w/out compromising it". That I tried, just experimenting w/ coins,quarters
for now and it's promising. I will have to try this out on the road and see if it's worth welding a piece of steel
on top of the Andersen ball or the top, bottom of the my coupler as a permanent fix. I think it has merit and hoping
for input and experimentation from anyone. Use from 1-4 quarters on top of the ball and you'll see that it's holding great with
very little play and the possibility of that ball from being dislodged is much better.

[dmand001]

The Andersen hitch was designed to hold the ball in place in the coupler with no to minimal movement, hence the no grease selling point.
If a gap exist from the top of the ball to the top of the coupler bottom, it will vibrate and move as one travels. The answer then would
be to eliminate that gap or play, insuring of course that it doesn't compromise the connection. I bought some steel washers, 2 are
1-1/8" in diameter for the bottom of the ball and 2 that are 1" stacked on top. The total thickness of the stack is 3/8" which I found
eliminated most if not all of that gap, (play). Unlatching/latching is the same, no problems. The shoe or claw of the coupler is seated
properly. Chains tight, pulling the trailer a bit no problem.

I called Andersen with this solution, spoke to a Steve and he said that it's a great idea. He said that at least now, he has an answer.
I am confident that the ball will not dislodge and will travel with this set-up.

Andersen Users with the Marvel or Atwood couplers, I hope this issue is resolved. Unfortunately,a long trip will rest this issue for me
which is not till May. I certainly will report back here, then.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by dmand001

The Andersen hitch was designed to hold the ball in place in the coupler with no to minimal movement, hence the no grease selling point.
If a gap exist from the top of the ball to the top of the coupler bottom, it will vibrate and move as one travels. The answer then would
be to eliminate that gap or play, insuring of course that it doesn't compromise the connection. I bought some steel washers, 2 are
1-1/8" in diameter for the bottom of the ball and 2 that are 1" stacked on top. The total thickness of the stack is 3/8" which I found
eliminated most if not all of that gap, (play). Unlatching/latching is the same, no problems. The shoe or claw of the coupler is seated
properly. Chains tight, pulling the trailer a bit no problem.

I called Andersen with this solution, spoke to a Steve and he said that it's a great idea. He said that at least now, he has an answer.
I am confident that the ball will not dislodge and will travel with this set-up.

Andersen Users with the Marvel or Atwood couplers, I hope this issue is resolved. Unfortunately,a long trip will rest this issue for me
which is not till May. I certainly will report back here, then.

This sounds like a solution to a problem we we do not have, or perhaps a worn -out coupler. When the chains are tensioned, there is no looseness or vibration in my experience (4,000 miles with the Andersen).

doug k

[TG Twinkie]

Just completed a 340 mile trip with the Andersen Hitch. Set it up per the instructions. Had no problems with the pawl in the Marvel coupler. No slop in the ball/coupler mechanism. Went thru the hitch and unhitch process 4 times during the trip. During the unhitch process, still had to step on the TV bumper to get the ball to drop out of the coupler. It didn't take much, but it did need my 225 pounds to drop out. During the hitch up process, I always raise the coupler with the tongue jack to see if it will lift the TV.
Drove 50 miles with a 40mph broadside wind. Towing my '74 Argosy 26', loaded weight 5500# with my '08 Tundra 4x2, 5.7ltr V8 with tow package. Shift lever set to 5 in the "S" position. Didn't even know the trailer was there, except when pulling away from a stop sign.
Drove 90 miles on slush covered roads at 55-60 mph. No handling problems at all. No porpoising, no sway, no fish tailing in the slush.
This setup is a huge improvement over my '98 Dodge 2500. The additional 120 horsepower doesn't hurt any either. Averaged 3 mpg better with the Tundra. Running a pretty consistent 13.2 mpg running at 60 mph.
I am a happy camper!

[dmand001]

Originally Posted by dkottum

This sounds like a solution to a problem we we do not have, or perhaps a worn -out coupler. When the chains are tensioned, there is no looseness or vibration in my experience (4,000 miles with the Andersen).

doug k

Howies posts # 1275 & 1299 was a real problem to some including myself . I was on the verge of replacing my coupler like some have done. A simple test; next time you hitch up add a washer and latch it. Chances are you’ll be able to and not notice any differences which proves my point that a gap exists. If you cannot latch it then your ball is seated all the way to the top of the coupler and locked in as a solid piece which is what the “no grease”, Andersen Hitch was designed for . The Andersen applies a horizontal slant for WD which puts about 4000 lbs of pressure rearward on the latch shoe and not a vertical or upward pressure on the coupler as most of the conventional couplers were designed to do. Enough said on couplers for me. Let’s enjoy the benefits of the Andersen Hitch.

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by dmand001

Howies posts # 1275 & 1299 was a real problem to some including myself . I was on the verge of replacing my coupler like some have done. A simple test; next time you hitch up add a washer and latch it. Chances are you’ll be able to and not notice any differences which proves my point that a gap exists. If you cannot latch it then your ball is seated all the way to the top of the coupler and locked in as a solid piece which is what the “no grease”, Andersen Hitch was designed for . The Andersen applies a horizontal slant for WD which puts about 4000 lbs of pressure rearward on the latch shoe and not a vertical or upward pressure on the coupler as most of the conventional couplers were designed to do. Enough said on couplers for me. Let’s enjoy the benefits of the Andersen Hitch.

I don't think you can say "enough said" until this issue has been resolved. For one thing the company hasn't really said anything that I am aware of. I am keeping an eye on my hitch, which I won't be using for a few months again. Also watching these posts for more feedback on others experiences re "coupler-gate" (yes, I said it). But I hope we get more actual empirical evidence vs theoretical. Frankly all the amateur engineer lectures just give me a headache.

I suppose it's the price we pay for being pioneers.