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Old 11-18-2012, 07:56 PM   #925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
Chief is right, That won't work. But I wonder if he could just drill a couple small holes and put in a bolt going through the center of a link. Doesn't seem like it would take much to keep the chain from twisting. The adjustment screw isn't a high torque item.
The chain has to move back and forth in the tube with compression and release of the urethane bushings as the trailer moves down uneven roadways, driveway approaches and such.

I don't see why the tube couldn't be round if the chains could be held while tightening. But I don't see any advantage to it either.

This is an effort I guess to prevent chain wear. If you align the bracket to the chains when installing, that should do it. No point in getting seeking absolute perfection as this angle changes slightly and constantly as the trailer moves down uneven roads.

I haven't seen any wear in 3700 miles; I did give the chains a slight shot of CorrosionX as a lube and to prevent rust soon after seeing some rubbing of the finish on my first few miles.

doug k
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:56 PM   #926
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Originally Posted by Tino643 View Post
they made extended not rond....
That is what I thought. I also think you will find there is good reason why they do not make the bracket round. I now have the new angled brackets and am very happy with the install and angle. The chain is a straight shot to the triangle. I have no new wear on the chain and it no longer binds up in the box. I applaud Andersen for their quick response to the unique mounting problems of Airstream owners.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:22 PM   #927
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an idea?

I have been following this thread with great interest. The round vs. square tube for the chain reminded me of the chaffing of the chain/tube. What if some tough nylon was inserted into whatever shape of tube you wanted to use such that all the chain movement was on the nylon and not the tubing? Tubing may have to be a little larger, but that should not be a problem. If the nylon had an interior hole shape like an equal arm cross (an X?) then the chain would slip right into it; the tubing if square, would keep it from turning, or if using round tubing, then the nylon would have to be pinned somehow to keep it from spinning inside the round steel outer tubing. just a thought.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:45 PM   #928
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I have been 'working' with Dave Andersen for a special built shank. I need an extended shank because my gas filler is behind the licence plate in the center of rear bumper. My current WDH shank is barely...no it's not long enough so inserting the gas nozzle is difficult. Currently my hitch ball is 14" from the shank pin. I need a least 16". Dave is concerned that the receiver is mounted securely to the car frame. I think it is as the current WDH hasn't caused any problems except early on ( 6 years ago) when I noticed some bend in the box steel that was used. That was resolved. The hitch installer that I used is an Andersen dealer so I am going to him for his opinion.

Neil
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:50 PM   #929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Andrew Thompson of CanAm RV did some road tests and determined the shorter the distance of the ball from the rear axle, the better the handling. That is also the principle behind the Hensley hitch design. Even an 1 1/2" makes a difference. Best to keep it as short as possible, some people even redrilling the bar shaft pin hole to shorten the distance.

doug k
Yes, but the longer bracket length is vertical, not horizontal. So adding 3" isn't going to increase that distance, it will merely drop the chain line down, not extend it. Should still be the exact same distance between the ball and the rear axle as it would with the original bracket. The change would be almost microscopic.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:14 AM   #930
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Another thing I'm wondering if the chain bracket was lengthened, rather than angled, to get a better chain alignment.

This would change the geometry as related to the weight distribution force needed to transfer weight, wouldn't it? That is, it would be easier to pull slightly upward with the chains, instead of pulling straight back or even downward with a longer bracket than provided by Andersen? Also a longer home-built bracket would seem to have more force applied to it making it even harder to keep from slipping, and applying more force on the urethane bushings?

My experience with modifications such as this has been that it can introduce unexpected problems while trying to solve another. I would suggest staying with the original design as much as possible. Let Andersen experiment with improvements that may or may not be needed. For us it has worked very well as designed.

doug k
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:56 AM   #931
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
That is what I thought. I also think you will find there is good reason why they do not make the bracket round. I now have the new angled brackets and am very happy with the install and angle. The chain is a straight shot to the triangle. I have no new wear on the chain and it no longer binds up in the box. I applaud Andersen for their quick response to the unique mounting problems of Airstream owners.
Did you have to special order the angled bracket and exchanged your old one? This is a concern of mine in ordering from a dealer.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:13 AM   #932
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Did you have to special order the angled bracket and exchanged your old one? This is a concern of mine in ordering from a dealer.
Special arrangements were made directly with Andersen, no exchange was necessary. From day one I have only worked directly thru Andersen (Dave and Andrew) no dealer or middleman involved. My original unit was the first one custom made for an Airstream 3 inch frame. My new brackets were made based on my measurements and discussions with Dave and Andrew. Dave has told me that the angled brackets are only coming with systems ordered specifically for Airstreams due to the unique geometry of Airstream trailers. Other brands will still come with the straight brackets.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:35 AM   #933
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OK here are the scale results for my 34 ft trailer and my Ford Excursion. The tests were do with just field adjustments to the Andersen, in that I had removed my original setting achieved by fender measurements and just set the hitch by eye.
The Excursion is a heavily sprung truck and thus transfer of weight to the front axle will be harder than many lighter sprung trucks. None the less these weights clearly indicate that weight has been transferred.

Truck alone

Front axle 4220
Rear axle 4200

Combination
without
Andersen

Front axle 3920
Rear axle 5120


With Andersen

Front axle 4040
Rear axle 5000

In this case the Andersen placed 120 lbs on the front axle. While 180 less the the dry front axle weight it has clearly placed weight forward. Additional weight could be move forward if additional tension was placed on the chains but this produces good driving characteristics for the Excursion.

At the same time the Andersen reduced the rear axle weight by 120 lbs.

I did not weigh the trailer tongue by itself because that would have required a third bass across the scale and disconnecting while on the scale and traffic on the scale was heavy with commercial rigs that day. None the less the weights show transfer to the TV countering those that claim it could not be
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:41 AM   #934
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Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
Chief is right, That won't work. But I wonder if he could just drill a couple small holes and put in a bolt going through the center of a link. Doesn't seem like it would take much to keep the chain from twisting. The adjustment screw isn't a high torque item.
This would not work because the chain MOVES within the tube when you have changes in elevations adding or lessening the tension on the bushings. While this movement is slight it would cause a hard stop to the chains if the bolt touched the limit of the chain loop in either direction.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:42 AM   #935
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Howie, Thank you for going to all the trouble of doing this. The proof is now in the numbers for all to see that are willing to believe.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:55 AM   #936
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post

This would change the geometry as related to the weight distribution force needed to transfer weight, wouldn't it? That is, it would be easier to pull slightly upward with the chains, instead of pulling straight back or even downward with a longer bracket than provided by Andersen? Also a longer home-built bracket would seem to have more force applied to it making it even harder to keep from slipping, and applying more force on the urethane bushings?

doug k
Your first thought about changing the geometry is correct. It would actually improve thing, in that pulling straight back against the plate, with the chains directly in line with the plate. While this difference would be very slight it can be realized if you look at the vector analysis of the chains position with respect to the plate.

Yes the longer brackets will apply more force to rotate against the frame but that can be compensated for by through bolting the bracket to the frame or an additional set screw at the top.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:32 AM   #937
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Neil, I must say I really like your choice of a TV for your elegant Airstream. Excellent combination
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:05 AM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
OK here are the scale results for my 34 ft trailer and my Ford Excursion.

Truck alone

Front axle 4220
Rear axle 4200

Combination
without
Andersen

Front axle 3920
Rear axle 5120


With Andersen

Front axle 4040
Rear axle 5000

In this case the Andersen placed 120 lbs on the front axle.

At the same time the Andersen reduced the rear axle weight by 120 lbs.
Numbers are a good thing. Thnxs for posting.

Are you satisfied with this small amount of weight transfer for your every day travels (trailer connected ready to roll)?

The front axle of the EX with the Andersen and trailer attached is still 200lbs lighter than campared with the EX solo.
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