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Old 11-18-2012, 03:58 PM   #911
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Thank you for the information! But I do not have chains with me. The original square tube bracket is it the chain from twisting holdingho When tightening the rear nut off? I tought they were louse. And for the waranty, i call the Anderson and the factory can do the same braket. But the price was to hight ....
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:09 PM   #912
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Tino, are you saying that Andersen makes the system with a round bracket tube or that they make an extended bracket. I know that they will custom makes different bracket lengths if requested. I really don't see how it would work safely with the round tube, the chain will twist.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:16 PM   #913
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I had thought about making a modified bracket also but using the square tubing for the reasons mentioned. I think I'll try it out as is for awhile before looking into that route. One thing I hadn't thought about was the length of the hitch. The distance from the receiver pin to the ball center is about 1.5" shorter than on my previous WD hitch. At the longer length I could just barely open my truck tailgate without hitting the electric tongue jack when hitched. That was so long as I was straight. I failed to try it when I took my Anderson for a test drive but this has come up for discussion later. I will have to contact Anderson this week and see if I can get one with a longer bar. I could have it modified but if it's not too costly I will go with what they are able to provide.

I think that Tino is on the right track but I agree he should have used the square tubing.

See y'all on the road sometime.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:24 PM   #914
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For anyone looking for a Canadian dealer, the Andersen hitch is sold by Cerka Industries in Milton, ON.
Looks like the retail price up here is "Retail $715.60" plus tax.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:27 PM   #915
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I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #916
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I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?
I suppose you could try that, but it would take a serious gorilla grip. Awful lot of pressure and torque involved. Also feel that as soon as the screwdriver was removed the chain would spin and there would go your adjustment. If you get a chance to see and use one you will see what I mean.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:48 PM   #917
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I've never seen one of these things in real life, but using a round tube, couldn't you just hold the chain (with a screwdriver through a link) when tightening the nut?
Chief is right, That won't work. But I wonder if he could just drill a couple small holes and put in a bolt going through the center of a link. Doesn't seem like it would take much to keep the chain from twisting. The adjustment screw isn't a high torque item.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:04 PM   #918
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Re custum fit braket

Tanks for the info. for the tube. I didn't think about that because i don't have the chain whit me. There are whit the Airstream... I did not think that the square block the chain. I think if I use a screwdriver to hold the string that will be good. But I'll put squares instead of rounds and I give you some news in the spring...
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:06 PM   #919
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...gotta get back to it

Glad to see some activity on this thread again. My install project got postponed, first, due to my drilling the set screw hole right into my power cord, which is inside the AS a-frame. I disconnected all the internal leads under the dining seat. Then I pulled it outside just under the floor, but stopped there. I was ready to pull it completely out of the frame to the front to get a replacement, but then I got company at my little house for a couple of weeks. So I put everthing away, disconnected the battery completely, and use the AS as my extra bedroom.

Now the company is gone and I am ready to jump back into the project. I think I will replace the cord and install the new one back inside the frame, like the old one was. That seems to provide max protection from the elements.

Two questions: is there a recommended source for a replacement cord that will be exactly like the one that came with my AS? I believe it is a Bargman Company product.

2d:What should I use as a sealer in the floor where the power cord enters the Stream? I pulled out some rubbery grey sealing material. I don't know if it is some kind of rtv or what. I understand that only certain stuff should come in contact with aluminum. And I am not sure if there actually is any aluminum in the layers of flooring that start underneath the trailer. Temporarily I just jammed some old styrofoam in there, but that won't stay in place once I start traveling again.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:11 PM   #920
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Glad to see some activity on this thread again.
Just returned from a 1,000 mile trip with the Andersen. The more I use it, the more I like it.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:15 PM   #921
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Sorry Rich, think you got your post in the wrong thread. This is the Andersen Hitch users thread.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:05 PM   #922
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Sorry Rich, think you got your post in the wrong thread. This is the Andersen Hitch users thread.
OK I get it. But this repair was a direct result of trying to install my Anderson hitch, so my warnings about drilling the set screw, etc. apply to warry installers. I just thought with all the experience here you could weather a brief side step to the cord issue (which happened during the Anderson install...see my prior posts) so I can quickly get back to finalizing my Anderson hitch install. With all the 1000's of posts by you guys, this shouldn't be a total threadjack. My goal is still the same...get my Anderson safely installed and operational!
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:25 PM   #923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Tino, are you saying that Andersen makes the system with a round bracket tube or that they make an extended bracket. I know that they will custom makes different bracket lengths if requested. I really don't see how it would work safely with the round tube, the chain will twist.
they made extended not rond....
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:43 PM   #924
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
I had thought about making a modified bracket also but using the square tubing for the reasons mentioned. I think I'll try it out as is for awhile before looking into that route. One thing I hadn't thought about was the length of the hitch. The distance from the receiver pin to the ball center is about 1.5" shorter than on my previous WD hitch. At the longer length I could just barely open my truck tailgate without hitting the electric tongue jack when hitched. That was so long as I was straight. I failed to try it when I took my Anderson for a test drive but this has come up for discussion later. I will have to contact Anderson this week and see if I can get one with a longer bar. I could have it modified but if it's not too costly I will go with what they are able to provide.

I think that Tino is on the right track but I agree he should have used the square tubing.

See y'all on the road sometime.
Andrew Thompson of CanAm RV did some road tests and determined the shorter the distance of the ball from the rear axle, the better the handling. That is also the principle behind the Hensley hitch design. Even an 1 1/2" makes a difference. Best to keep it as short as possible, some people even redrilling the bar shaft pin hole to shorten the distance.

doug k
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