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Old 11-13-2012, 12:09 PM   #897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
Just a thought;should there be different "weights" of bushings depending on the weight of the trailer? There are different weight bars for the equalizer.
Also,the 7 thread position, doesn't this depend on the placement of the brackets on the trailer. The closer to the ball the more threads to get the 1/4 in compression on the bushings or the farther the less threads needed????
This is what I am hoping their engineers come up with for my application. It's probably not as important for 1-ton owners as they are more likely looking for the sway control
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:19 PM   #898
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A thought and qustion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reganzo View Post
With the Reese the trailer always rode a little low in the back end, and I couldn't get it any more level, so I assumed that was the way the Reese did it's job.
I too have not tried the Andersen but read the posts with interest. Thnxs to all who have posted with their experiences.

Mr. T has written many times that less than 15% of the combo's on the roads today are connected optimally, thus a loss of performance. As Reganzo has pointed out his set up was one of them (trailer tail too low),(trailer wag).

I'm wondering if the apparent success of the Andersen is the fact it appears to be so simple to install and set up? Also users don't have to try to figure out what weight rating of torsion bar is needed to get the connection right. Realizing many folks have the wrong bars which cause diminished performance.

Perhaps a rig like Reganzo's with the Reese would have been as good or even better than the Andersen if it had been set up optimally???
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:39 PM   #899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Ruler

Mr. T has written many times that less than 15% of the combo's on the roads today are connected optimally, thus a loss of performance. As Reganzo has pointed out his set up was one of them (trailer tail too low),(trailer wag).

Perhaps a rig like Reganzo's with the Reese would have been as good or even better than the Andersen if it had been set up optimally???
Great question Road Ruler,

When I purchased my trailer the Reese came with it. I took the truck and trailer to an RV dealer in Easton Pennsylvania that sold Reese hitches. I asked them to check my set up, and they made a couple of adjustments, and told me I was good to go. I took them at their word and off we went.

Now with the experience I have towing, and the knowledge I have picked up off the forum, I realize my set up was one of the 15 % that was not set up properly. That said I am still happy I went to the Andersen, and I find it easier to hitch and unhitch than the Reese, and backing into campsites is much easier as the turning radius of the Andersen is far better than the Reese ever was. All in all for me, a better fit... I am not trying to change minds, just sharing my experiences with fellow Airstreamers.


Regards

Reganzo
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:02 PM   #900
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I would ask everyone to Please get away from this idea that any 2 trailers can be set up the same by just tightening the bushings up to 7 threads. 7 threads is a suggested starting point not a finished point.

There are far too many variables. trailer weight, TV spring sets, tongue weight, installation measurements ect. to have a single solution for all systems. If you have recorded your fender heights before installation. Set the Andersen up to transfer weight to the front axle, depending on some number of threads showing, while still having the trailer ride Parallel to the ground you have met your goal. Proof and satisfaction can be gained by scale tickets. Scale tickets will also determine if you have over or underloaded the front axle, an important factor in retaining steering geometry.

As for the TV fender heights being the same before and after hitching up that is an impossibility unless the axles are welded to the frame and the tires are rock hard. Tongue weight has been applied to the TV and depending on your tension on the chains will cause depression of the TV springs.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:30 PM   #901
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Is it too good to be true? Owners of the Andersen Hitch know the answer. Once you understand the concept, you'll say, why didn't I think of that! It's so simple yet achieves WD, SWAY control, Bounce control, ease of Installation as well as Hitching/Unhitching, Quiet, Clean, Looks great and much more. All that due to the genius of a tapered ball w/ brake pad and a chain bushing set-up. It is a game changer. There's nothing to compare it to. It has made the complex more simple. Yep, love simplicity when it works. Those horses in horse trailers are grateful no doubt for the anti-sway/bounce this hitch has, mmmm wondering if one could sleep in a moving trailer w/out being tossed about.

I am not an owner yet but in a dire need of replacing the dirty heavy monster hitch that I have. I've enough knowledge accumulated in my own study of this hitch, thanks to Howie for initiating this thread and all the lucky owners of the Andersen Hitch, (AH) that posted.

The landscape in hitching is about to change!
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:57 PM   #902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
SAE J2807 has a fairly wide range of coverage, despite narrowness in some instances. Some concerns posted here: Richard Klein, P.E
.
I found this information from the article linked above to be interesting:
"...recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its “no trailer” condition)."
I tried to find the SAE paper online, but there's a charge to download it from the site.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:01 PM   #903
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Canadian Dealer

For anyone looking for a Canadian dealer, the Andersen hitch is sold by Cerka Industries in Milton, ON.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:08 PM   #904
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In looking at instructions for setting up weight distributing hitches I came across this:

FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK-UP OR TOW WITH REAR WHEELS OF TOWING VEHICLE REMOVED. Severe structural damage to towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.

Makes me wonder ... did someone actually try this? I expect someone did or it wouldn't be in the warnings.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:41 PM   #905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander View Post
In looking at instructions for setting up weight distributing hitches I came across this:

<b>
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK-UP OR TOW WITH REAR WHEELS OF TOWING VEHICLE REMOVED. Severe structural damage to towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
</b>
Makes me wonder ... did someone actually try this? I expect someone did or it wouldn't be in the warnings.
That is left over from the Old Tornado ad Airstream and one of the WD hitches produced back in the 70s. But just like any commercial add, ie a Ford truck running down a railroad on the ties, the public has to be warned not to follow.

We have to be protected from ourselves.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:53 AM   #906
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This is clear and convincing evidence that " We are our own worst enemies".
I suppose it amounts to job security for the attorneys out there.
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:30 PM   #907
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Review

Review of a new Anderson hitch user. I just bought a new Airstream 27 feets Serinity. My truck is a 2011 Jeep Cherokee, 75th anniversary. I'm on my third Airstream. And my second whit this truck. I had a 20 feet and 25 feet. With the last two I had a Reese weight distribution with sway control. The system was adjusted to perfection. But the system was noisy and when big truck pass beyond me, it was pushing and pulling . After reading this forum I decided to purchase an Anderson. The istallation is quite simple and after 1500 miles of use, I am very satisfied with the performance compared to Reese. First I almost not feel large trucks that pass beyond me, second there is no noise whit this thing. But one thing bothered me. Configuration of the brakets. When installed, the chains have an angle. That force the plate to force whit an angle. View review 764 for and example . So I did make custum made ​​braket three inches longer. The chain will be parallel to the frame and the plate will no longer have force angle. My braket will be welded at the frame considering that they are longer an there will be more tension. I do not want them to move. I will paint then whit the A frame paint i order. I will poste a new review this spring when i got my Airstream out of storage...
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:59 PM   #908
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Tino643: Your longer hitch bracket looks good, but I see one problem you may not have thought of. The square tube original bracket holds the chain from twisting when tightening the large rear nut. With the round tube you have fabricated there is nothing to keep the chain from turning when you tighten the Acme nut. I believe that will become a problem you will have to resolve in some way.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:39 PM   #909
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Sorry but I have to second the comment on the square tubing. If you attempt to tighten using the round tubes and do not have a means to keep the chain from twisting any residual torque in the chain may cause the nut to tighten even more as you drive.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #910
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And a third Andersen user with concern about the round tube. The square tube is an integral part of the Andersen design to keep the chains aligned and not twisting. Andersen does not seem to have a problem with users making minor adjustments to certain aspects of the system; however at the very least I would imagine this radical a modification would totally void the warranty and remove them from any liability.
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