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Old 10-10-2012, 09:26 AM   #855
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I like how well the frame protects it.
The frame can provide protection, but it also hides damage. On our Overlander the wires came through the frame and we had a problem with it getting pinched somewhere around the bottom of the Hensley which caused fuses to blow at random times. Our Sovereign has a detachable cable that plugs into an outlet on the front of the trailer. While this means an additional potential entry point for water, and makes the tongue a little more cluttered, I like the idea that it would be easy to see if the wire were damaged, and easy to repair.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #856
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For the heck of it, I decided to measure the chain wear on my Andersen. I have towed about 6,000 to 7,000 miles with it since installed earlier this summer. I was the one who first noted the chain wear which has brought many responses on this thread. Since discovering the wear, at about 3000 miles, I have been using white grease from a spray can to lube the chain tubes and chain. You can see photos of my setup on p34, post #463 of this thread.

Today I took my calipers and measured the wear on the chain at the worst spots. The chain original diameter is .37" + or - a few thousandths. My worst wear spot showed .34", again not trying to be too precise, the measurements could be over stated in precision easily so I chose to keep them to two digits.

The square tube has some wear also. Original thickness .18" and worst wear location at the edge is .13"

I believe the grease I am using has prevented further wear since the original problem was found. I may change some of my setup later, but for now the grease works well for me.

On this last trip of 800 miles over the past weekend I also tried another change. My hitch stinger seemed sloppy in the Jeep receiver. I don't know if it is the Jeep box or the hitch stinger, but I thought I would put a metal shim in it to reduce the movement up and down. I believe it helped, the ride was even more solid, and there was no noise at all in any situation, whereas in the past once in a while there would be some clunking sounds. A few thousands of an inch of movement at the hitch box/stinger can be amplified a lot with any WD system. Again, is it the Jeep or the Andersen, or are all setups sloppy? I don't remember the same problem on my Reese or Draw Tite, but then I towed very little with them and this specific Jeep.

I remain very very satisfied with the Andersen hitch system.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:48 AM   #857
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There was some earlier discussion in this thread regarding altering the square tube in hopes of easing the wear on the chain. I think it was to slightly round off the edges that abrade the chain. Any thoughts on if that modification may help ease some of the wear you have recorded on your chains ????
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:01 AM   #858
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There is a lot of slop in most hitches, a couple of dif devises available to lessen it. Jim
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:29 AM   #859
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Well I got a chance to change my hitch set up to reduce the ware produced by the bracket angle. The picture below shows the new installation that angles the bracket towards the chain center line. In this new position it was necessary to drill the brackets and frame and install 2 #8 bolts through the frame to hold the brackets in position against the pull of the tension on the chains.

You will note I dropped the brackets and used the upper upper hole for the top. This meant I had to drill out the set screw hole to accept the larger bolt in the bottom hole. In order to put a 1/2 in #8 bolt in the factory supplied top hole I had to make a bushing to fill between the 1/2 in bolt and the 5/8 hole.

I noted in an earlier post that Andersen has started to ship brackets with the tube angled towards the chain center line in the vertical plane. I have checked with Atwood, the manufacture of almost all trailer couplings, as to the number of A frame angles currently being manufactured. Almost all RV trailer use a coupling with a 50 degree angle. Given the fact that the A frame angle, the chain length, and the angle plate are in a fixed relationship the bracket should be angled outwards a few degrees also. That is not and easy fix in the field but could easily be incorporated in manufacturing. Given that modification the only other variable, on larger Rvs, would be the frame height. Given a downward angle from the factory variations in frame height could be adjusted in the field during installation, by tilting the brackets to achieve alinement, and the use of a second set screw at the top.

As to the question of chamfering the leading edge of the tube to reduce ware that will not eliminate it. The force at that point is too great to be reduced in soft steel.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:48 AM   #860
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to hitch: hitch with wing and chains attached to TV, attach the trailer . lift trailer with jack and attach chains to trailer. the higher, the more slack to attach chains. tighten chain (I use 6 threads). ;raise jack to travel position.
to unhitch: reverse procedure; jack up, remove chain from trailer, lower jack and release trailer from ball, jack up trailer and move TV. level trailer for storage.
blocking and un blocking wheels for safety.
I was in a 20-30 mph cross wind and with passing trucks, did NOT feel any sway. My speed, 55-60. Have to obey the limits. Sure beat my eq,
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:51 PM   #861
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I just lower hitch on to the ball, jack stand all the way up, plate then just fits on, tighten chain bolts and off I go. I don't like to mess with jacking it up and down. Just a waist off time for me. This was one of the reasons I bought the hitch. No more jacking the trailer up and down 2 or 3 times to hitch and un-hitch.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:19 PM   #862
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Purman - I agree. I keep it as simple as possible & really don't see any need to make it complicated by repeated jacking up & down.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:12 AM   #863
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Purman and chief; I agree this would be simpler, but in a very early thread, someone did this and the ball came loose from the hitch and the truck fell. That is why I leave the wing on the hitch and attach the chains to the TT. Someone also mentioned that they had drilled the ball shank below the hitch and inserted a roll pin for safety.
Basically we do the same procedure, except I attach the chains to the TT and you attach the wing to the hitch.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:50 AM   #864
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If you lift the combination to attach the chains you do not have to lift as far as you would to attach or remove the plate. This is less likely to cause the ball shaft from coming out. I prefer to remove the plate so I have to lift the combination higher. The addition of the roll pin was my answer. Andersen may be considering another route to allow this method and improve the overall efficiency of the system.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:52 AM   #865
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Yes, if you jack the TV and AS up together, without the triangular plate pined on the bottom of the ball shaft the ball can come out of the tapered hitch shaft and the TV can fall. Howe E was the one who put a roll pin in his to prevent this from happening.

I don't find it a problem to use the electric jack to move the combo up an inch or two, attach the plate, then tighten the chains with the big nuts. It is still a simple and safe way to do things.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:13 PM   #866
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Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
Purman and chief; I agree this would be simpler, but in a very early thread, someone did this and the ball came loose from the hitch and the truck fell. That is why I leave the wing on the hitch and attach the chains to the TT. Someone also mentioned that they had drilled the ball shank below the hitch and inserted a roll pin for safety.
Personally I don't find that necessary as I hitch and unhitch according to the procedures suggested by the manufacturer. After several dozen cycles I have never had any indication that the ball was coming out of the receiver. Negligence causes accidents, attention to detail prevents them. But whatever works for each user is fine with me.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:30 PM   #867
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You can see the tool mark on the ball shaft so there is some resistance to the shaft coming out. The force necessary to pop it out is also effected by the tongue weight the trailer has applied to the shaft.

Given that when and if it comes out it is an instantaneous event with no warning and will drop as far as you have lifted the rig using the jack.

When I installed the roll pin I had to grind clearance in the collar of the plate because of the limited space between the top of the collar and the bottom of the hitch body. The wooden dowel was a test case before driving the roll pin in.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:34 PM   #868
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Heading to Zion np tomorrow. About 8 hour drive with the kids. Welded the bracket in place so we shall see how the new configuration of an angle works.
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