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Old 01-05-2013, 08:57 AM   #1221
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SteveH is right this was covered, and someone posted a picture of the ware marks on his ball from the slight movement and they were where the ball contacted the coupler NOT the clamp so the Andersen hitch isn't any worse then any other hitch on the clamp.

Also someone posted that he removed the grease from his coupler BEFORE installing his Andersen and found that his coupler was already cracked and needed to be replaced. This proves all hitches have the potential to damage the coupler and the coupler should be checked occasionally for damage and ware. They were not really designed to last more then 15 years or 50000 miles since that is not typical trailer use and lifespan.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:04 AM   #1222
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A "load equalizing" and sway control test program would not be that difficult to do.

But the time and costs involved would certainly not be cheap.

A simple, but effective test program would include the following.

A fixed test track, with twists and turns.

Using the same size trailer.

Using the same tow vehicle.

Installing G-force sensors in the trailer that have their readings recorded.

Using the same towing speeds for each of the different hitches.

Using different towing speeds to learn what is the "best" speed.

All installations made according to each manufacturer.

A graphic display would then become very helpful in deciding which was better as well as at what speeds.

Then the program could further be enhanced by using different length trailers along with different types of tow vehicles.

Someday, just maybe?????????

I seriously doubt that it would ever take place, since the RV industry does not have any unbiased testing facilities.

Andy
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:24 AM   #1223
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Thank you for making a short summarizing what was in the thread. It is very long and taking to much time to read every page. I'm tempted to try the Andersen hitch, but i found a equalizer 4 point for $300 on craigslist. But then again, I might like the quietness of the Andersen for $100 or so more. I see a lot of the same people supporting andersen when I search the web for reviews and the others just give a basic answer. No one ever talks about their experience hooking it up or any extra adventures, but then again, It is a new deal and will take time for all that to come out.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:34 AM   #1224
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Originally Posted by leachz View Post
Thank you for making a short summarizing what was in the thread. It is very long and taking to much time to read every page. I'm tempted to try the Andersen hitch, but i found a equalizer 4 point for $300 on craigslist. But then again, I might like the quietness of the Andersen for $100 or so more. I see a lot of the same people supporting andersen when I search the web for reviews and the others just give a basic answer. No one ever talks about their experience hooking it up or any extra adventures, but then again, It is a new deal and will take time for all that to come out.

Thanks again!
The very first consideration for "any" load equalizing hitch purchase, is it correct for your tow vehicle and trailer.

The very "LAST" consideration is it's cost.

Cost is usually inversley proportional to safety, when it comes to load equalizing hitches.

Buying a used load equalizing hitch is not a good idea, since you would have zero knowledge as to what stresses it may have been subjected to, which can alter the effect of the hitch.

Andy
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:43 AM   #1225
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
(snip)
Also someone posted that he removed the grease from his coupler BEFORE installing his Andersen and found that his coupler was already cracked and needed to be replaced. This proves all hitches have the potential to damage the coupler and the coupler should be checked occasionally for damage and ware. They were not really designed to last more then 15 years or 50000 miles since that is not typical trailer use and lifespan.
That would be me, my '74 Argosy had cracks in the interior ball socket and I replaced it with a new coupler. The trailer probably has over 150,000 miles on it and the damage was done prior to my Andersen purchase.

As a result of what I found, I urge everyone to degrease and inspect their coupler, especially if the rig is old and has lots of miles on it, no matter what hitch you use.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:55 PM   #1226
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
A "load equalizing" and sway control test program would not be that difficult to do.

But the time and costs involved would certainly not be cheap.

A simple, but effective test program would include the following.

A fixed test track, with twists and turns.

Using the same size trailer.

Using the same tow vehicle.

Installing G-force sensors in the trailer that have their readings recorded.

Using the same towing speeds for each of the different hitches.

Using different towing speeds to learn what is the "best" speed.

All installations made according to each manufacturer.

A graphic display would then become very helpful in deciding which was better as well as at what speeds.

Then the program could further be enhanced by using different length trailers along with different types of tow vehicles.

Someday, just maybe?????????

I seriously doubt that it would ever take place, since the RV industry does not have any unbiased testing facilities.

Andy
Andy Thomson of Can Am RVs in London Ontario has done hundreds of tests on a closed course and on the hiways. His experience goes back to the seventies when his father started the business. I bet between the 2 of you, you know more about trailers and towing than anybody.

His latest article in RV Lifestyle is about hitch receivers, different designs and load ratings, and how to build one, or reinforce one for best strength, safety, and weight equalizing performance.

He did chime in briefly on a test of the Andersen but I don't think he gave it a fair trial. He treated it like any other weight equalizing hitch, which it is not. The Andersen will not work when you put a heavy trailer with a passenger car, a Can Am specialty.

I hope he does further tests with a more suitable rig. I would like to hear his thoughts, and yours as well. If the 2 of you got together and compared notes who knows what your giant brains would come up with .

Can Am closed course test. Jaguar, Chrysler 300 and Ford minivan stability and maneuverability test, towing a 34 foot Airstream.

45 MPH = 72 KPH

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Old 01-06-2013, 06:08 PM   #1227
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drop question

I am planning to order my Andersen hitch shortly, and I have question on the drop for the guys that have them. I know from following this thread there is kind of dead spot on the height adjustment that have required some owners to rework the shank and some to special order.

I figure that I will need the Andersen ball at the same height, at least to start with, as my current hitch. With my current set up the top of the hitch ball is 1" below the top surface of the shank. Is this setting possible with the standard 4" drop shank they supply?
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #1228
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I figure that I will need the Andersen ball at the same height, at least to start with, as my current hitch. With my current set up the top of the hitch ball is 1" below the top surface of the shank. Is this setting possible with the standard 4" drop shank they supply?
Yes, that is the one you want, but you might want to double check that with Andersen because I don't know the height of the 2 5/16" ball above the hitch head.

On my little trailer it's a 2" ball.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:51 PM   #1229
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Rick,

I'll quite sure the 4" drop bar is the correct. I have had both the 4" and 6" drop bars and the longer one is surely made for an extremely lifted truck. Otherwise it will hang down like a plow or stick up to interfere with your tailgate.

It looks to me like these drop bars are not necessarily drilled at the same height, my two were different and the one I is drilled differently than the one in the company photos. Order the 4" drop bar, and if wrong ask Andersen to exchange it for one that will fit. They seem to be accommodating.

With your heavy duty truck I wouldn't expect the truck to drop much from tongue weight. Be sure to follow adjustment instructions; that is, tighten the chains before you raise the trailer tongue jack and let the weight down on the chains. It is very difficult to tighten the chains properly with the trailer weight resting on them.

You're going to like the smooth ride of the hitch on bouncy roads, and the sway resistance it provides. And the light weight, and the ease of adjustment, and the cost, and the quiet operation, and the . . .

We're told in this thread it will not transfer enough weight for every application, let us know how it works for you.

doug k
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:12 AM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisen View Post
I am planning to order my Andersen hitch shortly, and I have question on the drop for the guys that have them. I know from following this thread there is kind of dead spot on the height adjustment that have required some owners to rework the shank and some to special order.

I figure that I will need the Andersen ball at the same height, at least to start with, as my current hitch. With my current set up the top of the hitch ball is 1" below the top surface of the shank. Is this setting possible with the standard 4" drop shank they supply?
I had Dave Andersen make a special shank because there was a 4" dead spot right were my F150 2X4 and the Airstream needed the ball height to be. The top of the hitch ball needed to be at 19 3/4" to 20 1/4". The highest it would go on the down side was 18 1/2" and the lowest it would go on the up side was 22 1/2". Andersen made a new shank, powder coated and shiped it for $75. That is a very reasonable price and I know that it is done right.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:02 AM   #1231
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Thanks for input on this drop question, guess I better call Andersen to discuss my needs.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #1232
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Several of us Anderson users here have also run into interference opening the tailgate on out trucks with the trailer hitched. After installation this came up for me and I needed to get Anderson to make a longer insert ( 3" longer) for me. It cost me extra so if you plan ahead and tell them up front it might be a little less painful in your purchase. I also tow with a Dodge 3500 so same issue will likely apply with you. The tailgate will hit the electric tongue lift so it needs to be pushed out a little.

I've only taken mine for a short test ride after installation. Next month we plan to head south for awhile so I'll see how I like it then. I plan to take my old bar WD hitch with me just in case. I really don't anticipate any problems but since I have it I will take it along.

Good luck with yours
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #1233
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Roger, my tailgate also will not come down when hitched with the Andersen or my Eqaul-I-Zer hitch. Extending the stinger gives the trailer more leverage to push the truck around in a sway condition and makes weight distribution more difficult.

A better (although more costly and a sacrifice of Andersen benefits) solution for this tailgate clearance problem would be a Propride or Hensley, which sets the trailer further back from the tailgate when installed.

doug k
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:54 PM   #1234
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Hi Doug. I got the 3" longer insert. I will see how it affects the towing dynamics when we head south in Feb. I will take the short one with me just in case. I have a heavy pickup so I really don't see it causing a large difference, but we'll see. I was able to open the tailgate with my former hitch, Equalizer I think.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:42 PM   #1235
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Roger, keep us posted.

Am really curious how this works out for a heavy truck like yours. Andy from Inland RV always remind us to select light spring bars for a heavy truck, so how can you beat no spring bars with excellent sway resistance.

doug k
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:38 PM   #1236
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Several of us Anderson users here have also run into interference opening the tailgate on out trucks with the trailer hitched. After installation this came up for me and I needed to get Anderson to make a longer insert ( 3" longer) for me. It cost me extra so if you plan ahead and tell them up front it might be a little less painful in your purchase. I also tow with a Dodge 3500 so same issue will likely apply with you. The tailgate will hit the electric tongue lift so it needs to be pushed out a little.

I've only taken mine for a short test ride after installation. Next month we plan to head south for awhile so I'll see how I like it then. I plan to take my old bar WD hitch with me just in case. I really don't anticipate any problems but since I have it I will take it along.

Good luck with yours
Thanks for this reminder!! I had read something about this before and I had forgetten it. My current hitch is Drawtite with 750# bars and no sway control (haven't felt a need for that but is one of two main reasons to go Andersen) and if I am parked dead level the tailgate just opens without hitting the electric jack. I think if I add about 1 inch over my current dimension it will be fine in about any case and will not change anything significant over where I am with current setup.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:02 PM   #1237
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Roger, my tailgate also will not come down when hitched with the Andersen or my Eqaul-I-Zer hitch. Extending the stinger gives the trailer more leverage to push the truck around in a sway condition and makes weight distribution more difficult.

A better (although more costly and a sacrifice of Andersen benefits) solution for this tailgate clearance problem would be a Propride or Hensley, which sets the trailer further back from the tailgate when installed.

doug k
This is pure bunk. The addition length necessary to clear the tail gate will have very, if any, effect on the effects of the Andersen
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #1238
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I had a sway control for mine also and never used it. Over the last 5 years I've found it to be stable and very easy to handle without it. When I put the Anderson on I removed the attachment point from the trailer and welded the holes. With my Equalizer hitch and parked nice and straight the tailgate would just open but not with the shorter bar the Anderson came with.

And Doug, I will let you know if any handling issues pop up with the longer hitch bar.
How long have you been retired from the Navy ???? I did active duty in the Army from '69-'72 but retired from the Air Nat. Guard.

PS: I agree with HowiE
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:00 AM   #1239
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I just got my new Andersen hitch set up and a Quickbite coupler installed on the Airstream. Measured the front and rear wheel well cutouts before and after hooking up and after. The front was 34" and the rear 35" before then the front was 34" and the rear 33" after and driving about 10 miles. The trailer stayed within 1" af level front to back. I am not an engeniree or a sceintest and my spelling is not great. I have had a commericial drivers liecense for 20 years and I do know that trucks are designed to ride and handle better with some load on the rear axle. Now I think that if my F150 only drops 2" over the rear axle with 800 lbs. of toung weight and the trailer staying almost level that is good because these are the same measurements as with the old Reese straight line hitch. After about 25 miles of towing with no noise from the hitch and no pourpiousing through intersections or over bumps I am happy so far. Now the Andersen may not be the right choise for a car or SUV as the TV but for a truck or van this is a very good choise. And for any one thinking about a longer hitch bar, the new Quickbite coulper added about 2" to the trailer tounge so I added another link to the chain that gave me more room to open the tailgate.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:10 AM   #1240
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Originally Posted by msmcv51 View Post
I just got my new Andersen hitch set up and a Quickbite coupler installed on the Airstream. Measured the front and rear wheel well cutouts before and after hooking up and after. The front was 34" and the rear 35" before then the front was 34" and the rear 33" after and driving about 10 miles. The trailer stayed within 1" af level front to back. I am not an engeniree or a sceintest and my spelling is not great. I have had a commericial drivers liecense for 20 years and I do know that trucks are designed to ride and handle better with some load on the rear axle. Now I think that if my F150 only drops 2" over the rear axle with 800 lbs. of toung weight and the trailer staying almost level that is good because these are the same measurements as with the old Reese straight line hitch. After about 25 miles of towing with no noise from the hitch and no pourpiousing through intersections or over bumps I am happy so far. Now the Andersen may not be the right choise for a car or SUV as the TV but for a truck or van this is a very good choise. And for any one thinking about a longer hitch bar, the new Quickbite coulper added about 2" to the trailer tounge so I added another link to the chain that gave me more room to open the tailgate.
If your hitch is working properly, the front should go down as well.

If not, then all the weight is on the rear.

Not good.

Andy
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