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Old 10-09-2012, 08:04 PM   #841
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Originally Posted by Tino643 View Post
Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks
The procedure will vary as there are different ways to skin this cat, but this is what I do. I lock the coupler on the ball, then raise the trailer, along with the truck. I attach the triangular front plate to the hitch, then tighten the nuts until I have 8 threads showing (this will vary by configuration). I then lower the trailer completely and I'm ready to go. Reverse procedure to unhitch.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:33 PM   #842
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Consider this as repair.
That's a neat trick!

I caught a little bit of a break. After disconnecting all seven wires inside the Stream and shoving the cable under the trailer, I was able to pull it from the front, behind the coupler, just enough to expose the damaged area without pulling the cable completely into the frame. There is still some hanging under the trailer that I can grab after the repair.

On closer inspection, it appears that I skinned 3 of the wires and some of the black cable insulation. I should be able to surgically remove more of the outer cover and separate and reinsulate those 3 wires. A few strands broke, but at least half seem to still be attached in each wire. Fortunately, the separate 2 blues wires, that run along with the 7 wire cable, did not get damaged. They appear to be connected to the emergency breakaway trailer brake system.

What should I use to plug up the big holes....floor of the trailer, and holes in the frame? RTV?
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:36 PM   #843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tino643 View Post
Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks
I just replaced my Reese dual cam hitch with this. No way is this as complicated, or as heavy, or as bulky, as the Reese!
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:51 PM   #844
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To hitch, I back up the truck, then lower the coupler onto the ball enough to lock it, but no weight on ball. Then I install the triangle and tighten the chain nuts until each urethane bushing is compressed to 2 1/2" (varies by weight distribution needed). Then I lower the trailer until the tongue jack is stowed, check trailer for level, and ready to finish other hookups.

To unhitch, I raise the trailer with the tongue jack until I see the weight is just off the ball but no more. Then unlock the coupler, release the tension on the chains and remove the triangle, unhook everything else and raise the tongue enough to drive the truck away from the trailer.

The hitch installation book with the hitch gives the correct method, and I think I am following that. Very simple, light weight, and no grease.

doug k
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:01 PM   #845
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Originally Posted by Mike91208

The procedure will vary as there are different ways to skin this cat, but this is what I do. I lock the coupler on the ball, then raise the trailer, along with the truck. I attach the triangular front plate to the hitch, then tighten the nuts until I have 8 threads showing (this will vary by configuration). I then lower the trailer completely and I'm ready to go. Reverse procedure to unhitch.
You need to attach the triangle plate before you raise up the rig or the ball can come out of the housing.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:10 PM   #846
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Rich, Howie has the right idea. If you have a trailer ( big truck type ) parts supplier nearby they have a terminal box you can fasten to your frame. Pull your cable out of the frame and cut it where it's damaged. Strip the insulation and using the color codes in the terminal box connect the wires to one side. When you buy the box also get a few feet of 7 wire cable and connect the appropriate wire to the other side of the terminal in the box. You then need to get a connector to match your tow vehicle and connect that to the other end. If you keep all the colors straight you now have a new cable and plug and are good to go. Not difficult at all. Get some cable clamps while you're at it to secure the cable to the inside of the frame rail ( but now on the outside ). Essentially the same repair Howie has done. The terminal box will give a little more room to work in and coded terminals to make it easier.

Bye the way, got any suggestions I'll be doing this soon and was wondering how to avoid this exact thing happening to me ?????? At least I have a trailer supply house nearby and some 7 wire cable on hand. Just in case.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:28 PM   #847
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Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
I just replaced my Reese dual cam hitch with this. No way is this as complicated, or as heavy, or as bulky, as the Reese!
The questions remain as to whether the Anderson can perform as well as a Dual Cam or Equalizer. The simplicity of the thing is the great attraction should it ever prove out.

.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:51 PM   #848
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Originally Posted by Tino643 View Post
Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks
Hitch: Drop the trailer on the ball, raise it slightly with the jack, but not enough to pull the tapered shank out of the socket (maybe lift it an inch or so). With the chains loose, slip the triangular bracket on the bottom shank and pin it with the pin. At this point either raise the trailer a bit higher with the jack and then tension the chains with the large socket provided (you supply the 1/2" wrench), or just tighten the chains without raising the trailer with the jack. Done.

To unhitch: Raise the trailer slightly with the jack. Loosen the chains with the wrench. Unpin the triangular plate from the bottom of the ball shank. Unhitch from the ball in your normal way.

It is very fast in practice, once you have done it a few times. Takes maybe 2 minutes.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:53 PM   #849
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Rich of SCal

If you attempt any repair in the middle of your cable that repair has to be WATER tight. Once the insulation of the umbilical cord is opened, whether by a repair or just a crack from time the inner wire will see moisture and corrode through over time.

The reason I had to replace the forward part of my cord was a small crack in the insulation that caused one of the wires to corrode. Wires that fail do to corrosion do not fail as a single event but deteriorate and reduce electrical flow over time. It was my brake wire that was failing giving less braking over time.

You can buy umbilical cords about 7 ft long and splice it in as I did in a water tight box. I soldered the connection in the box. This type of repair gives you future access for inspections
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:00 PM   #850
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When hitching and unhitching I raise the TV/Trailer combination enough to allow me to put the triangle plate on or remove it from the bottom of the ball shaft. Doing this means I never have to adjust the tension on the chains by adjusting the nuts on the Acme screws.

Doing this does run the risk of the ball shaft popping up out of the hitch housing, that did happen to me once. After that I drill and place a 5/16 roll pin in the shaft to prevent this.

Using this method it takes about 30 seconds to hitch or unhitch if you have approached the trailer at the same angle you dropped it.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:29 PM   #851
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I have an used Andersen hitch for sell since I switched to ProPride . The Andersen hitch is setup for my 27 FB and toyota tundra . I can sell it for $ 275 plus shipping .
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:18 AM   #852
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Rich, Howie has the right idea. If you have a trailer ( big truck type ) parts supplier nearby they have a terminal box you can fasten to your frame. Pull your cable out of the frame and cut it where it's damaged. Strip the insulation and using the color codes in the terminal box connect the wires to one side. When you buy the box also get a few feet of 7 wire cable and connect the appropriate wire to the other side of the terminal in the box. You then need to get a connector to match your tow vehicle and connect that to the other end. If you keep all the colors straight you now have a new cable and plug and are good to go. Not difficult at all. Get some cable clamps while you're at it to secure the cable to the inside of the frame rail ( but now on the outside ). Essentially the same repair Howie has done. The terminal box will give a little more room to work in and coded terminals to make it easier.

Bye the way, got any suggestions I'll be doing this soon and was wondering how to avoid this exact thing happening to me ?????? At least I have a trailer supply house nearby and some 7 wire cable on hand. Just in case.
That sounds good except that then my cable will all be on the outside and more susceptible to the weather than it is inside the frame.

My only suggestion is to drill a very small pilot hole first, stopping as soon as it breaks through. Then use a coat hanger type wire to push the cable away from that side of the frame before you drill a larger hole for the set screw. Maybe you could squirt some liquid foam insulation in the hole and that would push it to the other side. Of course, then you wouldn't be able to see if you nicked it or not, which I was able to do with a small flashlight.

I can't really think of anything else. It's pretty much dumb luck, which I didn't have.

I understand about the waterproofing. I was hoping to use some liquid shrink wrap type stuff to fully encase the 3 exposed wires and then that section of the cable. Otherwise I might just buy a new cable and pull it through the frame. I like how well the frame protects it.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:06 AM   #853
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Thanks to everyone for the info.....
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:33 AM   #854
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Rich, I agree that the frame is a good protector for the cable. On my old trailer the cable was already outside the frame so I kept it that way. With all the terminals in a waterproof enclosure things are very water tight and secure. I never had any problems with 5 years and many miles of towing. Of course if you get a cable with a molded in plug on the end it is always better. But I just didn't want to get into the house to do the wiring. I will try your drill technique recommendation. Thanks for the heads up.
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