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Old 10-06-2012, 04:10 PM   #827
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Thanks WAZ. I had never seen them before and didn't know that. I guess my friend liked the way they looked and left them on. Knowing what I do now I think I will do without.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:33 PM   #828
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FYI- My source for the angled brackets

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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
I got mine yesterday. It has the previous edition of the brackets that are welded perpendicular to the bracket. I will give them a try as is. I started today to clean up the frame in preparation for mounting the brackets. Mine had a stainless protector on the tongue that had to come off. The Anderson brackets fit too snug to the frame to go over the stainless sheet. I was surprised how much surface rust there was when I removed the protectors. I would advise against using them unless you plan to remove them periodically to allow the frame to dry out. There was also a socket there for a sway control bar. I will weld those holes and paint the whole thing. I'm working now on matching the paint so we'll see how that goes.

So the Anderson adventure begins. NOW if Mother Nature will cooperate and let me work ........ ?????
I ordered mine through Hitch Anything, but it looks like they came directly from Andersen. Good price too. $374 total, with free shipping. It took 5 business days to get to me from date of order.Andersen Hitches
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:41 PM   #829
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Now it begins

I just moved my AS out into the backyard to begin the install process. But I go slow and take too many breaks, so it will be awhile. I am not working in ideal conditions. It is on grass and dirt, and is far from perfectly level. I figure I will do an approximate install and check it later when I can get to a level parking lot somewhere.

ONE QUESTION: I don't see any tongue protectors, but I have 2 aluminum strips of metal on the insides of the A frame, with what I am guessing is a serial number stamped on them. The brackets will cover these ok, but they might promote sliding. Is there a problem if I remove them?? Surely the VIN number is stamped somewhere else, more permanent!! (I will check for responses on my next break)
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #830
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We got a new truck (2012 Ram Express 5.7 Hemi set up for towing including factory brake controller), here is the installation. No problems distributing weight to level all, easy if you tension chains before lowering tongue jack.

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Old 10-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #831
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Rich, my tongue protectors were a wrap of shiny SS ( I think ). When I took them off I see a stamped VIN on the tongue. I didn't know it was there. I have no intention of re-installing the shiny protectors.

Ken, do you recall the ball height you did your installation with ??? I checked the height at the top of the ball on my former hitch and it was 19". I was planning to start with that on my Anderson job. I tow with a Ram 3500 with a super hitch add on receiver and I use the lower one instead of the factory receiver.
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Old 10-06-2012, 10:42 PM   #832
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Initial install completed

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Rich, my tongue protectors were a wrap of shiny SS ( I think ). When I took them off I see a stamped VIN on the tongue. I didn't know it was there. I have no intention of re-installing the shiny protectors.
I left the aluminum strips attached. When I torqued the brackets to 100 ftlbs the aluminum smashed flat as a sheet of paper. So, no problem.

The 4" drop is more than adequate. Based on my Reese dual cam set up, I originally thought I would need at least an 8" drop. Not only is the 4" enough, I actually had to raise the shank up one bolt hole to get things near level.

The instructions are clear enough for the most part. A couple of things don't add up, however. They call for a torque wrench capable of 100 ftlbs, then tell you to torque the shank bolts to 150 ftlbs. I just did them to 100, assuming this was a misprint. 100 seems plenty strong.

Also, in attaching the triangle plate to the bottom of the shank, they warn to not attach it if severally crooked in relation to the tongue. However, they also say it doesn't have to be perfectly perpendicular. I went with that thinking that it would straighten itself out completely when I tensioned everything. Wrong! It does need to be perfect, or it will stay in that position even after pulling forward and trying to straighten it out more. I was barely off, and it is staying that way. So tomorrow I will reinstall the brackets after loosening everything and getting that plate to line up.

I am not going to have to remove a link after all, but I did have to remove my receiver for my electric power mover. And there is no other place to reattach it. So I am going have to rethink how I will move the trailer around in my crowded back yard. Looks like I will selling a perfectly good Reese dual cam hitch system AND an electric, 4 wheel power mover.

But I think I am going to love this hitch once I get everything lined up and adjusted properly. It has got to be at least 1/2 the weight of my old system!
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:46 AM   #833
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I was advised to get the 8" drop hitch. It seems to be too much but I will wait until I install things and get a better look see to decide whether to keep it or see if they will switch it for the shorter version. I have to look over the instruction closely but how did you decide the placement of the brackets on the frame ??? Is it simply based on chain length ??? When I went to see Howie's setup he recommended rounding off the sharp edges of the triangle plate so that when it's hanging down it won't cut into the post of the lift if it's operated. So I did that and re-painted it.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:47 AM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
I was advised to get the 8" drop hitch. It seems to be too much but I will wait until I install things and get a better look see to decide whether to keep it or see if they will switch it for the shorter version. I have to look over the instruction closely but how did you decide the placement of the brackets on the frame ??? Is it simply based on chain length ??? When I went to see Howie's setup he recommended rounding off the sharp edges of the triangle plate so that when it's hanging down it won't cut into the post of the lift if it's operated. So I did that and re-painted it.
Unless you have a monster wheel truck 8" is going to be too much. You can get a 6" drop where I bought mine, but I bet that will be too much also. These hitches sit very low compared to my Reese setup. Bracket placement is just pulling the chains tight and seeing if you have an obstruction at that point. If you do, then the chain has to be shortened or replaced with a longer one. The beauty of this system is it's simplicity.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:38 PM   #835
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back at it

OK I am going to try and reposition my brackets, and redo the adjustments today, so I can unhitch and use my jeep for other duties. Picked up a few new sockets, etc. to make the job easier.
BTW if you have a hodge-podge tool shed as I do, you may also have been missing a 1 1/8" socket and can't find one at Home Depot or Ace. Try Sears. They have a nice 5 piece set, which also included the 15/16" socket (which I did have already) for under $30. I also picked up a hex head 5/16" socket and a longer breaker bar style 3/8" ratchet to make the set screws easier to do. Any excuse to buy new tools, right?? Oh yes, and they have a 10% military discount, if you qualify.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:39 PM   #836
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I was working on my "A" frame today in preparation for installing the Anderson Hitch. I welded the sway ball bracket holes and was preping it for paint. A friend mixed paint for me to match ( I hope ) and I will do that in the coming few days. I was thinking ahead to the next time it will need painting ( too late for this time ) and may try using a tinted bed liner coating. I think it will be much more durable and I can do the inside and outside of the toolbox while at it. I can't think of any drawback to using the bed liner and it is much more durable than paint.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #837
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I don't think there is absolute perfection needed in aligning the chains into the chain tube. As soon as the rig moves down the road over a dip or rise, that alignment will repeatedly change as the trailer ball mount moves vertically on the hitch ball.

Of course if the chain tube had a rotating mount to the frame brackets, it could stay in alignment no matter what. But it's about chain wear and if its minimized by good bracket alignment that's probably good enough. If not, chain is cheap.

doug k
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:45 PM   #838
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Hitch and unhitch

Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:41 PM   #839
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Caution! Major wiring problems possible

OK, I am an 'if it can go wrong, it will' guy. I know there have been warnings about this, but it happened to me anyway and I really don't know how I could have avoided it.

I drilled a hole into the frame on the drivers side, for the set screw, per instructions. I stopped immediately when I felt it go through. However, it was just enough to cut through the main insulation of the 7 pin cable running through my frame and chewed up some of the wire, red, yellow, white, inside. Through the hole I can see the shredding and bright copper everywhere. Unfortunately the hole doesn't seem to be large enough to pull everything out for repair.

So now I have to disconnect this cable under the dining seat, unseal everything inside and near the coupler so I can pull it out, with a wire attached so I can reinstall after repair or replacement.

What a pain in the butt!
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #840
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Consider this as repair.
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